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^V.fv!^>.^ 1 .W^'5ti.v^^.5 , frvi^Hk^Twi

in^i

1

jt.

.a-j

7

THE

ART OF PRESERVING,

I

£^c. ^c. Sfc.

fc.-_

%,» '-*

.W^yl' .tv*. •t)>>iM>/

#v«6tf>/.i]>:

I

THE ART

or

PRESERVING

ALL KINDt or

Animal and Vegetable Suhstances

FOR

SEVERAL YEARS.

A WORK rUBLItHID BY ORDSK OF THR
FRENCH MINISTER OF THE INTERIOR^

On the Report of the Board of Arti and Manafactorei,

BY

M. APPERT.

TBAN8LATED FBOH THE FRSITCH.

LONDONi

v&nrrsD for black, parrt, avd kivosbokt^

BOOKSELLBRB TO THB BOK. BA8T*t]rX>IA COif*
PAVTf ItBAPEVHALt 8TRBBT.

1811.

Printed by Cox, $on, and Ba^dis^
Great Queen Street.

a0vertise;ment.

In an advertisement prefixed to

tlie pamphlet, of which the foL

lowing sheets are a translation,

tbe author publishes his address :

^^ Qtuii NapoUoUj au coin de la

'^ rue de la Colombe, iVb. 4, dans

*^ la Citdy h Paris s'^ and aflTers
for sale there, an assortment of
provisions, preserved by the pro*

cess, of whieh an account is here

A 3 commu-

« «

VI

commuDicated to the public. As
the book itself is a recommenda*
tion of the author's own goods, it
has been thought proper to add
to his account of his process^
a translation of the authorities
and testimonies by which his own
statements are authenticated : not-
wiAstandiog the ^petitions wbioh

• » >

are in consequence admitted. The
recommendation of the process by
the French Minister immediately

follows. The more elaborate Re-

port of th^ Paris Society for the

Encou^

Vll

Encouragement of National Indus*
try, will be found at the end of
the work.

It is needless to anticipate the
author's display of the advantages
which must flow from a simple and
unexpensive process of keeping
fresh .articles of animal and vege-»
table food. If this can be effected
for only one j/ear, that is, from
the season of produce through the
seasons of scarcity ; if no other
articles, for instance^ than eggs,
cream, and vegetables, can be

A 4 preserved

-» •*

%•»

preserved in their full flavour and
excellence daring a long winter^
there is not a mistress of a familjr
in the kingdom^ rich eiK)agh to
y^ey hy a ttoek of those articles^
lUid liot ioQ rkrh to despise the
etomamf of a family^ who wiU
not find herself benefitted by the
perusal of the smaU work here put
within her reach ; and there is no
reason to suspect the correctness
of this part of the author's state-
ments. Tbis^ however^ is hut one
of the more dbviotts benefits of

his

hh process i and if thus much be
ascertained^ then an interaunable
prospect of resource is opened^
\^liich the State, still more than
the individual^ will be called upon
to employ.

Th€ author, in his enumeration
of the advantages to be derived
from his process,^ places at the
head, the saving it will occasion in
the consumption of sugar. This
process, added to recent improve'-
ment in the art of preparing grape"
syrup, holds forth, in his opinion,.

A 5 A

l^^rBrmmmfmmm^mmmm

a prospect of relief to the suffmng
proprietors of French vineyards.
This statcSnent will have been lis-
tened to with great complacency
by the French government, which
so ostentatiously avows the deter-
mination to compel the whole
Continent to subsist on its own
produce, and dispeuse with the
inore luxurious of transatlantic
commodities* Our country, how-
ever, from its^ soil and climate,
can take little or no share in this

branch

XI

1)raDch of the application of the
author's process.

On the other hand^ it offers us
incalculable benefits in the equip*
xnent and victualling of our fleets,
and in providing for the health and
comfort of the floating defence of
the country, as well as of that
numerous and meritorious class of
men, to which the nation owes so
much of its prosperity. Whatever
promises an improvement in the
tjondition of every order of men
who subsist on the Ocean^ must

A 6 be

XXL

h6 considered as an object of
Bational cdDcern. The French
governjneDt^ at least on the part
of some of its members in the
subordinate branches of its adrni-^
nistratioD^ ha& taken the lead ia
recomQietiding the author's process^
to the attention of public fuoction<»
aries. From tile superior actiyity^
as well as more enlighteiied dis*
veraxxent of the people of tbis^
country^ ve maj expect (hat our
auAor's process wiiL excite equall j
the notice of the goveiiuKiciit ai»{

eountry

eoantiy at large ; and we trofit
thaC govemmenf -contractors and
commissioners^ as well as the pur- *
sers of men of war, and the stewards
of merchaatoien, will not be the last
to examine for themselves the pro-
^ mising statements of our author*

From the public papers we learn
that a patent has been taken out
for preservmg provisions accord-
ing to the process described in thi»
book. We do not pretend to deter*
mme how far this patent may in**
tesfcce widi the adoption by other

""persons

I^^i

xif

persons of this same process as a
manufactory and trade ; but^ it is
certain^ that on the small scale on
which provisions would be preserv-
ed for single families^ cJrery person
will be at liberty to avail himself
of the instructions he may meet
with in this volume. .

It was thought less objection*
able to insert unnecessary matter^
than to omit what to some readers
might be useful or interesting*
Every thing, therefore, ha^ been
translated, and we have even co>

pied

XT

pied the author's pl^e of the ma-'
chinery used in corking bottles^
though from, our improved state of ^
mec^faanics, the greater part^ of our
readers will stand in no need of its

f

^assistances similar machines being
in common use by the wine-
coopers, &c.

i

11 !■• . ,.»■

xn

THE MINISTER OF THE INTERIOH, COtTKT
or THE EMPIEE^ TO' M. APPEET^ &C.

Pcofis^ ^OthJanmry, ISIO*

Second Division

BOARD OP A&TS AKD MANUFACTUEB^,

My Board of Arts and Manufactures *
has reported to me. Sir, the examina-
tion it has made of your process for the
preservation of fruits, vegetables, meat,,
soup, milk, &c. and from that report
do doubt can be entertained of the suc-
cess of such process. As the preserva-
tion of animal and v^etable substances
may be of the utmost utility in Sea-
Toyages, in hospitals and domestic
economy, I deem your discovery worthy
an especial mark of the good will of
the government. I ha« in consequence
acceded to the recommendation made
me by my council to grant you a re-

compence

• Mim Bureau €9nmltuiif dn Arts ti MmufiteftfPt^

xvu

compeooe of 12/)00 fra&cft^. In m
tioit]^ I had in view the aMgning-^you
the rewar^l due to. the inventors of tt«e-
iul pipoesses^ and also the indemnify*
ing you for the expeoces you have been
obliged to ineur^ either in the forming
your establishment or in the experi-»
ments neeesflary. to establish the success
of your process. You shall be imme«
diately informed when you may repair
to the public treasury and receive the
1 2^000 franes.

It appears to me of importance^ Sir,
that you should spread the knowledge
of your preserving process. I desire^
therefore, that agreeably to your own
proposal, you will digest a detailed and
exact description of your process. This
description which yon will remit to my

Boaad

• About jf 500 steiling.

. ..^-•<M* 1 I

XVIti

t

Board of Arts and Manufactures^ ^faall
be printed at your expence^ after it. i^hall
have been examined. You will then
transmit me 200 copies. The transmis-^
sion of these copies being the only con*
dition I impose on you for the payment
of the 13^000 francs^ I doubt not you
will hasten to fulfil it. I de8ire5 Sir^
you will acknowledge, the receipt of
my letter.

Accept assurances^ &c»

(Signed) MoNTAtiVET.

4

BOAR© OF ARTS "A>J0 MANUFACTURES.

The undersigned Members of the
Board of Arts aqd Manufactures attach^^
ed to the Minister of tlie Interior, be-
ing required by his Excellency to ex-
amine the description of the process of
Mr. 'Appert for the preservation of
alimentary substance, certify that the
details it contains^ as well on the mode

of

■wtC-w

xtt

of carrying on the process as on the
results^ are ^cactly conformable to tli^
various experiments which Mr. Appert
has made before them^ by order of his
Excellency.

(Signed) Bordel, •
Gay-Lussac,

ScrPION-PEKRIER,
MOLARD.

Paris, \Qth April, 18 lo.

Copy of a Letter written to General
Caffarelli, Maritime Prefect at
Brest, by the Council of Health,
dated Brumaire, year 12.

The provisions prepared according to
the process of Citizen Appert and sent
to this port by the Minister of Marine,
have, after lying in the roads three
months, been found in the following
condition*

The

The htoth or soup (bouillon) in bot-
tles was good; the houUlon with a
touilli in a vessel apart was also good^
but weak ; the bouUli itself was very
eatable.

The beanV and green peas, prepared
both with meat and vegetable soup, had
ail the freshness and flavour of recently
gathered vegetables.

(Signed) Dubeeuil/

BiLLARD,

DuREfT^

PiCHON,

Thaumer.
True Copjr.

J. Mirier Secretartf.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

IVige

Advertisement '. ▼

Letter of the Miniiter of the Interior xyi

Certificate of the Board of Arts SYiU

Letter to General CafifareUi from the Council of

Health xix

§ 1. ne Ari iif Preserving, &c , 1

5. Description of my Rooms, &c.. 1 1

3. or Bottles and Vessels 18

4. Of Corks.. ,20

' 6. Of Corking.......... ,..,. 29

6. The Means of distinguishing defective

Bottles, &c... , ,. 37

Description qf the Auihor*s Process*.* 41

^ 7. Boiled Meat ^. 41

8. Gravy .....m. 43

Q. Broth, or Jelly...;. , 46

10. Bound of Beef, Fillet of Mutton^ Fowls,

and young Partridges. ••• « ,.. 47

11. New-laid E)^...^ ,......•.. •• 50

12. Milk ', ; , ,. ,.., 68

13. Cream..... , ,• ....«••• 55

14. Whey , m... 56

16. Vegetables , , ,. 67

16. 'Green Peas , , 68

17> Asparagus 60

18. Windsor Beans 6l

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Page
§ 19. Peeled Windsor Beans (53

20. French Beans \ 63

21. Artichokes 65

22. Cauliflowers 66

23. Sorrel 68

24. Spihage^ Saccory, and other Herbs 6^

25. A Soup called Julienne • 71

26. Vegetable Soup 73

-27* Love»Apples '. 74

28. Herbs and Medicinal Plants 75

29. The Juices of Herbs *.. 77

30. Fruits and their Juices 1 78

31. White and Red Currants in Bunches ....- 79

32. White and Red Currants stripped. .< 80

33. Cherries, Raspberries, 'Mulberries 80

34. Juice oF Red Currants • 81

35. Strawberries • • ••• 82

36. Apricots ', 83

37. Peaches and NecUrines 85

38. Prunes from Green-Gages and Plumbs.... 86

39. Pears of erery Kind 88

40. ChesnuU, Tru£9es/and Mushrooms 89

41. The Juice of the Grape or Must 91

<y the Mode of making Use qf the Substancee

. which have been preserved 93

§ 42. Meat, Game, Pouhry, Fish 93

43. JeUies made of Meat and Poultry 97

44. Milk and Cream '. 98

46. VegeUblc9 MM. ..»...« r. 99

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Psjge
$ 46. French Beans 100

47. Peas, Beans, &c 101

48. Spinage and Succory 106

49. Vegetable Soups 107

50. Tomatesand Herbs 108

51. Preserved Fruits> Marmelades, &c lOQ

52. Currant«Jam 113

53.. Syrup of Currants 114

54. Ices 116

55. Cordials .•.., II7

56. Chesnuts, Truffles, Mushrooms isO

57. Grape Juice, or Must.: ., i£i

Preparation of Grape Syrup ]$9

Syrups and Ratafies.. 195

58. General Observations , 130

59. Practical Remarks....... .' 135

Letter from the Secretary of the Society for the

Encouragement of National Industry 149

Seport of the Society. •,•••••. ••••..• 145

TRC

ART OF PRESERVING,

• Sjc. ^c. ^c

I

All the expedients hitherto made
Tise of for preserving alimentary and
Medicinal substances, may be reduced
to two principal methods ; that of des-
slcation ; and that of mingling, in'
greater or less quantities, a foreign
substance, for the purpose of impeding
fermentation or putFefaction.

It is by the former of these methods
that we are furnished with smoaked
and hung moeat, dried fish, fruits,
and v^etables. By the latter, we ob-*

B tain

taia fruits and other v^table sub-
stances preserved in sugar, tlie juices
and decoctions of plants reduced to
syrups and essences, all kinds- of
pickles, salted mAit and vegetables.
But each of these modes has its peculiar
inconveniences* Dessication takes away
the odour, changes the taste of the
juices, and hardens the fibrous or
pulpey matter (the parenchytma).

Sugar^ fVom the strength of itss owik
flavour, conceals and destroys in part
other flavours, even that, the eiy oyment-
of which we wish to pceserve^ such as.
the pleasant acidity of many fruits. A
second inconvenience is^ this, that a
large quantity of sugar is required in
order to preserve a smaQ quantity of
some other vegetable matter ;. and:
hence the use of it is not only veiy .
costly^ but even in many caaes . pei^

nicious«

^■1

tiiciom^ Thus the jufees of certain
plants cannot' be reduced to a syrop or
ei^sence^ but by means of nearly double
the quantity of sogar^ It results from
this that those syrups or essences, con-
tain much more sugar than any medi-
cinal substance, and that most frequent-
ly the sugar counteracts the operation
of the medicine, and is hurtful to the
patieiit.

Salt communicates an unpleasant
acerbity to substances, hardens the
animal fibre, and renders it difficult of
digestion. It contracts the animdl'
parenchyma.* On the other hand^ as

B3 it

• *' The sale meat with which the crews of Tcsiels arc
fed; appears to be one of the piincipal causes of the scurry.
It seems that the same causes which operate to prevent the
fermentation of meat, render it also difficult of digestion.
Though a small quantity of salt may be an obstacle in the
way of putrefaciioni the too al^andinit and lireqiiient use

whifib

it. is indispensable to remove^ by means .
of water, the greater part of the . salt ,
employed ; almost all the principles
which are soluble in cold water, are
Iqst when the salt is taken away : there
remains nothing but the fibrous matter,
or parenchyma ; and even that, a^ has
been said, undergoes a change*

Vinegar can seldom be made use of,
but in the preparation of certain articles
for seasoning.

I shall not enter into any details con*
ceroing what has been Mid smd publish-
ed

which is made of it, mutt cause great obstractions in the
smaller vessels of the body, and these obstructions cannot
fail to overload'the stomach of men who have to digest dry
vegetables and biscuits, which sailors advanced in years are
not always able to chew completely. Bad digestion and
obstruction in the smaller vessels may occasionally give rise
to ulcers in the mouth, and spots, which denote the kvlt'

ed on the art of preserving alimentary-
substances. I shall only observe^ that
as far as my knowledge extends, no
author, either ancieit or modern, has
ever pointed out, or even led to the
suspicion, of the principle which is the
basis of the method T propose^

It is known, how much, within a
certain period, the public attention,

• both at Paris and in the departments,
has been directed towards the means
of diminishing the consumption of su-
gar, by supplying its place by the use

•of various extracts, or 'essences, of in-
digenous substances. The government,
whose philanthropic views are turned
towards all useful objects, does not
cease to invite all those who pursue the
arts and . sciences, to investigate the

means oj^ drawing the utmost advantage
from the productions of our soil, in

» 3 order

order to develope^ to the utaort^ oqr
agi^culture ^and maaafiictufM, and w
dimmiah the cousttoiptum of ibreigti
Gon^moditiei*

la order to attain the same end^ the
Society for the Promotion of National
Industry* stimulates, by the oflfer of
^atteri|]|g rew^ds, all those whose talents
and labours are directed towards disoo-
verieSj from whid[i the nation and hn-
jnanky way 4>?w. subs^tial benefits*
An'wsiM by tl^ .If^udatfl^ ^eal^ tl^e
Agri(^¥lltqnil Sjodi^^ by ito :rapc|Iution
j^ %he ^ft pf June, 1^Q9> and its
.c^ial Dotiiictttion ^ it^ ^ li5th q{
ihe Jluly foVoi^^ing, xna^^ an appeal to
the whole niition^ in order to coUect all
4be information ajnd dqcuments wliic^
might contribute io the compositioja of
• a

*La S^cUti ^Bncouragenent pour V Industrie national^^

a wotk (m t}ie4a*t of paeaervii^ by the
fbest possiMe meuis^ every kind of ftli-^
faontftry^ttbitanee.

It was after kivitattom of so great
wdf^t, thiit I resolired to make known
4 metkod of d&cting this otyect^ of
i;reit feoitily m the execution^ and at
the safiie time very cheap, >and wh^ch^
by the^extmskm k admitt of^ may afford
unsierow .advantages to society.

. Tt^^pc^hodisinotavain theory. It
is ihe Irait of nefleetion, iovestigatio&i
long attao^ten^ ami nnmerous eaqperi-*.
ments, the results of which) for more
Attn ,tm years, have been so aui^ising,
^i^jiotwHitstaMbi^thefMof aoqmred
by repeated practice, that provisions
may be preserved two, three, and six
years, there are many persons Who still
refuse to credk the iSstet

B 4 Brought

Brought up to the business of prcv
serving alimentary substance by the
received methods ; • having spent tny
days in the pantries^ the breweries,
store-houses^ and cellars of Champ^ne,
as well as in the shops, manufactories,
and warehouses of confectioners, di»*
tillers, and grocers; accustomed tQ
superintend establishments of this kind
for forty*five years, I have been able to
avail myself, in my process, of a nnm*
ber of advantages, which the greater
number of those persons have not pos-
sessed, who have devoted tben>selves to
the art of preserving provisions.

I owe to my extensive practice, and
more ^especially to my long perseverance,
the conviction :

1st. That fire has the peeuliar pro-
perty, not only of changing the com-
bination

ft

bination of* the conBtitoent parts of
vegetable and .animal productions, bat
disc of tetardiog, for many years at
least, if not of destroying, the natural
tendency of those same productions to
diiconiposition*

2d. That the a|)plication of fire in a
manner variously adapted to various suh*
stances, after having with theniUnost care
rad as completely as^ possible, deprived
them of all contact with the a^ir, effects^
a perfect preservation of those same pro-
ductions,, with all their natural qualities«

Before I state the details of my
process, I ought to observe that it con-
sists principally,

1st. In inclosing in bottles the sub*
stances to be preserved.

b4 2d*.

1^

1^. j^ jcoiidag the bottle$ widi Iht
Utmost care; for it is x^I^efljr on the
corking that the sucQ^ps jOt ^ prooesi
depends.

3d. In submijkting these indosed
substances to tl>e action of boiling water
m a water-llHith (balnjbum mabjxe),
for a gr^^r or less length of time,
according to their nature, and in tihe
manner pointed out with reqpeet to
each several kind of substance.

4th. In withdrawing the botdes from
^e water-bath at the period prescribed.

i n.

»

il

^ 11.

Deicnptim gf m^ Roams set apart Jor
Qorryh^ on the Process om a Idrge
Scale.^

My laboratory consists of four apart-
nieots. The first of these is furnished
With all kinds of kitchen utensils^
stoves^ and other apparatus^ necessary
for dressing the animal substances to be
preserved, as well as with a kettle for
broth, gravy, &c. containing 180
French pints, raised on brick work.
This kettle is provided with a pot to be
put within it, pierced with holes like
a skimmer, with divisions for holding

B 6 various

* Ic!s ebvioiis, that for the use of privtte ftimilies, and
foi oartying on the process on a small scale, nothing fur-
ther will be jeqaisite, than such vessels aod other con-
veniences as are found in every house in the country,
wfecre provisions are cored for tb« coasttmptxon of the
Ikmlly daring winter.

various kinds of meat and poultry.
This pot can be put into and taken out
of the kettle with ease. The kettle is
provided with a wide cock, to which is
fitted, within, a little rose, like that
pf a watering-pot, covered with a
piece of boulting-cloth. In this way I
can procure broth or gravy quite clear,,
and ready to be put into bottles.

The second apartment fs appropri*-

ated to the preparing of milk, cream|.

and whey..

»

The third is used for corking and
tying the bottles and vessels, and putting
them into bags*

The fourth is furnished with three
torge copper boilers, placed upon stoneg
raised on brick work. These boilers are
M furnifijied with a stout lid, fitted, tQ

mst

Id

upon the vessels within. Each boiler is^
furnished with a wide cock below, irt
order to let out the water at ' a proper
time. These large boilers are destined
to receive, generally, all the objects in-
tended to be preserved, in order to ap-
ply the action of heat to them in a suit-^
able manner ; and thus they constitute
iso many water-baths,*

The

* The reason why it is necessary that large boilers should
be furnished with wide cocks is, that it would take up top
much time to let so large a body of water» atWays' plaeed
over a heated stoTe> remain till it became cool $ and that*,
on the other hand, it would do great injury to those sub*
stances to let them remain too long exposed to the heat.
Without inconvenience, therefore, in private families, any
cauldron or earthen vessel may be taken for a* water-bath^,
provided the water rises to the rim of the bottle. In case
there should be no vessel sufficiently high,. the bottles may-
be laid down in the water-bath,, care being taken to pack
them well together, lest they should be broken. Many
operations have succeeded well. with. me. this way. The
co^ks are somewhat more liable to burst outwards j but if
tht bottles are well corked, there is nothing to be. feared*.
1(^1 iQstaQce, it would not be advisable to lay on their.

sides*.,

14

Hie utensHs whk^ furoisb the thin}
apartment fer th^ jfrep^^torj proc^sy
consist of

'!« Rowisof bottle cacbi. round tfa#

3. A ceel for the iron wire, to be
used for binding the necks of the
b^t^les and other vessels. (Hg* 1 •)

3. Shears and pincers for tying on

tbecorJw. (Fig. 6.)

4.

sides, bottles or ot^ier vessels stopped up with stoppers con-
sisting of difierent pieces of any substance, because the
action of the fire upon this kind of stopper is stronger;
and however well the vessel might be corkedj 1% would not
l^e advisable to incur the risque*

Small water-baths are the more convenient, because they
may be placed any where, and removed at will. They
qoon become cold. The bottles are taken out when the
vvatcr is sufficiently cool to allow of the fiDg;cr being put
in, and thus the Qper?ition is teiminated.

If

A* ym\im for imttm^ Hie hrottHpHn
after it bw himi jdiWdod jwd jsui; to a
proper length. ( Fig. 2. )

1^^ Tvro kvstruiaeiits fermiiig a leiw^
%^A iMed for eompressiog, an4 at it
were biting the corks, (fig. 3 •)

$. ▲ bo^e-hoot or blocks 8ta£i4ing
cm tihiree legs, and prosFided with a
strong bat for corking, (t^g* &•)

7. A stool standing on five legs, for
tying ott the corks^, (f^* ^0

8* A 4ii£|cien£ quantity of Ititen
bags^ for covering the bottles and 0&M
vessels*

9f IW atoolji cDvered \frith leatfaen
and staffed wkh hay^ in qkIw to shake
the bottles upon them^ and ia.tiMt way:

force

i$

force a greater nmnber of peas and oilier
small substances into the bottles.

10. A press for '^the juice of plants^
fruits^ and herbs; with pans^ vessels^
sieves^ and every thing else that belongs
to it.

Besides my laboratory, consisting of
these articles, I have fitted up three
apartments.

. ^he first, for preparing vegetables :
it is furnished with dressers all round.

The second, for storing up and pre*
paring all kinds, of frait».

The third is a cellar, furnished witii'
bottle radts, for rinsing and setting by
llie bottles and other vessels, as in .a:
stdre^house«

I have

1?

I have the 'precaution to keep thf
bottles and other vessels I may wan<f^
ready rinsed at hand. I am also sup*
plied with an assortment of corks^ com-
pressed and bit in. the instrument al-
ready described. When every prepa-
ration is thus made^ the prpcesp is half
done.

The principle by which all alimentary
substances are preserved and kept fresh,
is invariable in its effects. The result in
particular experiments,' depends upon
the fitness of each individual applica-
tion of the principle to the substance
which is to be preserved, according to
its peculiar qualities ; but in every case,
the exclusion of air is a precaution of
the utmost importance to the success of
the operation : and in order to deprive
sdimentary substances of contact with
the air, a perfect knowledge of bottles
' ' and

•Hucl "ihe veseds to be used, oi corks

I chose glasa^ as being the matter
moit impenetrable by air^ and faftw
not ventured to make any .experiment
with n j^ess^I ms^de of aiyr other sub-
9tanQe. Th€ ordinaj^ hpttles hav^
geneiallj necki^ >tQO Wi^ wd ill made:;
th^r are. also too w6sik to reskt the
Idows^om the bata^dtheiaqtion of the
fire ; J, therefore^ canned bottles to be
Wde for mjr e^ial iwe, t.ith wider
B^s^ and those necks made svith a
projectifig rim^ orxii^, on the interior
s]iir%:ep placed below^ and resemblini^

ux £em^9 the nm which i^ at the to^

of

JO

*

' of the exterior surface of the nec^spf
bottles. My object wa^, that when the
corjc hiftd been forced into the neck Qf
the bottle^ three^fourths of it^ lei^th>
in the manner already described^ it
should be coippressed in the ipiddi^.
In this manner the bottle is perfectly
corked on the.outside as well as within.
It thus opposes an obstacle to the
swelling, or expafMion, which arises
from the operation of heat upon the
substance enclosed within the bottle.
This mode of foro^ii^^the neck of th^
bottle is so much the more indispens-
able^ as I have ir^iefttedly knoMrn ithe
.swelling to be so ateong, as to ipudi
:out coi&s .of tiii^ee or . lour -^ines dn
lengthy though ccMifioed j>y two iroa
vwires crossed. The ix>tdes and smisA
^ibould be made of a tough substance
[de matiire Uante], the former having
the weight of twenty-filve or twenty,-

six

20

six ounces for each litre* that the bot-
tle contains. The glass ought to be
of equal thickness in every part, or it
is liable to break in the water-bath.^

'The form of the Champagne bottle is
most convenient ; it is the handsomest
as well as the strongest^ and is of the

'best shape for packing up.

*■<■

§ IV.

' OfCbrJcs.

Economy in corks is generally very
unwise^ as in order to save a very trifle
an the price of .cork, a risk is incurred
.of losing the valuable commodity it is
intended to preserve, A3 corking is

made

' • The French litre, consists of nearly two wine pint^

»

and a hatf| Eng^Ush measure. ....

21

made use of in order to preserve and
meliorate certain articles, by depriv-
ing thedi of dl contact with the air^
too much attention cannot.be given to
the good quality of the cork, which
should be of eighteen or twenty lines
in length and of the finest quality.
Experience has so fully satisfied me on
this point, that I never make use of
any but superfine corks : these are, in
the end, the cheapest. I further take
the precaution of compressiiig, and, as
it were, biting the cork, three-fourths
of its length, by means of the instru*
ment already described {Jig» 3), be-
gmning at the small end. The cork is
rendered more supple ; the pores of
the cork are brought doser ; it is some^
what lengthened^ and its thickness is
so much diminished at the extremity
which' is put into the mouth of the
bottle, that a large cork may be made

to

2«

td eAV» a refy nlDd^fate caning.
7%[e ai!tidQ of the hetit WitMti the
ve^s^l is such^ that the cork sweUs' with-
iii> 9!6tA thie ccMfking is thus rendered

Of Corking.

Afltei^ what haa* been' just- said^ the
abroUrte neceasi^ wiU be apfMireat of
having good bottles^ witli a prcgecting
ioy^o f equal thickneBs aH roo^nd witiiiib
the neclcr Exoelleilt superfiae c6rki
arealsoiodispiensable^ which have been
compressed' iiv- thif ikistruAefkt three'
qu^rteraof their length.

Befbre ' I -ccHrk^ I talce eve thtit th^
beltksrcefttaiaABgfliqiKH^at^filM obly

up

Up to ^thih three inch(» of ^e outer
j:jm, lest' they should burst from ^e
bubbling and swelling occasioned hf-
the. application of heat to the water:*
When the bottles contain vegetabl^s^
frait> &c. they may be filled u^ ti^
wiihin two inches c^ the rim*

I place the full bottle upon the bot-
tle^boot * already mentioned^ before
trfaich I seat myself. This apparatus^
is to be supplied with a str^ngLivoocimi
bat^ a small pot full of water^ - aiidi^ a^
sharp knife^ greased with a liltW s«]^
or soap^ for cutting off tbe^ ik^ps of: the^
oerks^ which 'ought never to be^ rabed
much above the head of the bettles^
Itiese arrangementi being made/ li
place the bottle-boot between my legi^
and taking a cork of a fit sise^ I dip
one half of it into the little pot of
water j. in ord^r to faoilitate iti€ntf«iipav

and

34

and having wiped the end^ I then put
it to the mouth of the bottle^ at the
same time turning it round. I hold
it in this position with my left hand^
which I keep steady, that the bottle
may stand upright. I take the bat in
my right hand, in order to drive in the
cork by force of blows.

When I find^ at the first or second-
blow of the bat^ that the cork has'
soihewhat entered^ I take my hand from*
the cork in order to hold with it> the'«
neck of the bottle ; which I fix firmly
and upright upon the bottle-boot ; and i
by dint of repeated blows^ I continue >
to drive in my cork three-fourths of iV«'
length* The quarter of the cork whidi
remains above the bottle^ after having;
Infused to yieM any further to the re*:
doubled blows of the bat, assures me, •
in the first place^ diat the bottle is-

completely

J

eompteteljr corked^ a&d this same re-
aidue serves also to hold the double
crossed iron wire which is necessary to
bind fast the cork that it may be able
to resist the action of heat on the
water-bath. I must repeat again^ that
too mui^ attention cannot be given
to the corking : no circumstance how*
ever minute ought to be n^lected^ in
order to eflfect the rigorous exclusion
of the air from the substance to be
preserved ; air being a most destructive
agent, and the one which is most se-
dulously to be counteracted in the
course of the process*.

c The

* Ma»|r persons believe -^ey have corked i«ell> wheii
tbey have forced the cork even .with the mouth of the
tx>ttle ; but this is a great mistake. On the contrary^,
whenever the whole of the cork, instead of withstanding
^ blows of the bat» is forced into the bottle, it is advise-
able to draw it out and substitute another in its place;
Thus <b« beUoving that a bottle corked veiy low it . wcU

^iBiBiina

96

»

The bottles being well stopped up, I
fthen fasten the cork down with a cou*
«ple of iron wires crossed : this is an

easy

eorked, because no liquor escapes when the bottle is turned
with its- neck downwards ; is an err6r^ Which, joined to
the use of bad corks, causey a number of losses* He mk6
corks with care and judgment is satisfied that the operas
tion has been performed well by the resistance of the cork
to the blows of the bat, and never thinks of turning the
neck of rhe bottle downwards* It is besides sufficient to
reflect on the punctures met with in cork, and on all the
'hiddeh defects which may subsist in the interior eren Of
.the finest cork, by means of which, the air may be intio-
duced ; in order to be convinced of the pr(^rie^|r of making
use of none but the very best corks, and that, after having
'Weil compressed them in the machioc for that purpose^
and also of corking them so closely that they become very
much compressed in the middle.

It is in this way only, that 16sses can be prevented from
frequently taking place, which have often no other cause
than bad corking ; for, if a bottle does not instantly run
when carelessly corked, it proceeds from this circtim*
stance, that the air has not bad time to penetr&te through
the apertures which may be in the interior of the cork ;
and^ in fact, how different is the quality of wine, drawn
from the same cask ! and how many bottles do we moet
with, which base lost more or less of their coi»tenis !

fSL9f operation^ and any one can do it^
who has once seen it done.

I then put each botde in a bag of
canvass or coarse linen cloth^ made for
the purpose, sufficiently large to wrap
up the whole of the bottle up to the
very cork. These bags are made in
the shape of a muff^ open alike at both
ends : one of these ends is drawn with
a string running in a gutter, leaving an
opening of about the width of a crown
piece ; the other end is provided with a
couple of small strings, in order to tye
the bag round the neck of the bottle.

By means of these bags^ I can dis-
pense with the use of hay or straw in
packing up the bottles in the water-
bath ; and, whenever any one of them
breaks, the fragments are preserved in
the bag. I am spared a great * deal of

c 2 trouble

trouble and a number of inconvenient
des which I had formerly to sustain^ in
picking up the pieces of the bottle out
of the straw or hay I then made use of.

After having spoken of bottles, thrir
form and quality ; of stoppers, and the
length of the fine cork of which they
ought to be composed ; of the corking
and tying; of bags, their form and
utility ; I proceed to give an idea of
vessels with large necks, that is, glass
jars, which I make use of for preserving
solid and bulky substances, such as
poultry, game, meat, fish, &c.

These jars have necks of two," three,
and four inches diameter, and are of a
larger or smaller size ; like bottles,
they are furnished with a projecting
rim, not only in order to strengthen
the neck, but also for receiving the

iron

99

iron wire destined to bind the corks*
I have not. yet been able to procure from
the glass-houses a similar projectinig
rim in the interior of the neck of these
jars^ as I have in that of the bottles*
The completely corking up these ves«
8els> is^ from this circumstance^ ren*
dered more difficulty and demands es-»
pecialcare*

I met with another obstacle in the
cork jtself, from its thinness (more es^
peciitUy if^hen the cork was very fine))
aiid;a(so ffom, its ascending pores being
ugain^t the grain* I .was therefore
obliged to form stoppers of three or
four pieces of cork^ from twenty to
twenty-four lines in lengthy placed to*
getter the Way of the grain^ the porep
of the cork being placed horizontally^
hy means of isinglass prepared in the
foUowirig manner.

c3 I melted

3A

I melted over the fire four draim ot
well beaten iunglaiss, in eight ounces
of water ; when 'melted^ I caused it to'
nm through fine linen ; and then put
it again over the fire in - ordei^ to reduce,
it to one third of its volume. After
which I added an ounce of good fulU
proof brandy. I then left the whole
on the fire till it became reduced tq
about three ounces. I then put the
glue thus prepared in a little pot over
live coals^ and took care to warm my.
pieces of cork. I then slightty smeared
over the pieces of cork with a brushy
in order to glue them together. When
the pieces composing the stopper were
well fixed and glued together^ I then
fixed a tight thread to the two extremi-
ties of the stopper^ in order to keep
the pieces together^ and let them dry^
either in the suja or in a gentle heat for
about a fortnight. At the end of this

time

*1

time I took a cork^makerV knife and
cut my stoppers of a proper shape ;t
and having always fitted them to the
mouth of the jar^ they have never
proved defective.

Having corked my jars^ and driven
in the stopper by means of the bat,
the bottles being always placed upright
in the bottle boot^ I made use of a
compound luting. This luting (com-
municated to me by Mr. Bardel) is
made of quick lime> which is slaked in
the air by being sprinkled with water,
till it becomes reduced to a powder*
The powder to be kept in this state
in coiked bottles ready fbr use. This
lime mixed with a cheese made of
dkimmed milk (frontage h la- pieji
and formed to the thickness of paste>
{produces a luting which hardens rapidly,

c4 , and

39

tad whick widistands the heat of boi}-^
ing water.

I besmear the whole of the outeide
of the stopper with this luting, and I
cover the edge of the jar with hemp
and strips of linen placed above and
dose to the stopper^ and hanging d^wn
to the rim.

Farther, that the iron wire may have
jforce enough to keep down the stopper^
I puta piece of corlc seven or eight fin^
high, ' and .sixteen >or eighteen lines >iil
diameter, in the aniddle of 4^ latg^
sk^ppea* which is itsdf too bi^ to alidw
the wire to have any efiect upon it.
By means of this :second oork, placed
an the middle of the large stoppier, I am
itble to make the wire like a proper
bold of the cork and give doe strengtif
and solidity to the stopper.

When

i"i

' When erery thing has thus be^
ifbreseen and prepared^ and, above all
things, well. corked, tied^ and wrapped
lip in bags, there remains nothing to
be done,. but to apply the preserving
principle, that is, heat, to the substance^
duly arranged, and this is the most easy
part of the operation.

I place all the vessels, bottles or jars,
upright in a boiler, which, I then fill
with cold water up to the necks of the
vessels ; I then cover the boiler with
its lid, which is made to rest upon th«
vessels. I cover the upper part 6f the
lid with a piece of wet linen, in order
that the sides of the lid may exactly fit,
and all evaporation from the water*
bath be impeded as much as possible.

When the boiler has been thus filled
Md adjusted^ I light (he fire beneathn

c 5 When

34

When the water^bath. begins to boil,
I take care to maintain the same degree
of heat for the greater or less quantity
of time required by the substances ex-
posed to its influence. When this time
has elapsed^ I then instantly put out
the fire by means of a cosd^-extinguisher
(itouffbir). * -

After the fire has been put out a quar-
ter of an hour, I let out the water of the
bath by means of the cock : after the
water has been withdrawn half an hour,
I uncover the boiler, and I do not take
out the bgttles till one or two hours
after the uncovering ; and this termi-
nates the operation.

The UQxt day, or a fortnight after*
wards, for that is immaterial, I place
my bottles on shelves, as I do wine, in
a cool and ahady place. If I purpose

sending

3tt

^etidihg them a great distance^ I tiiink
•it worth while to pitch them before I
place them on the shelves ; otherwise
this last operation is not absolutely ne-
cessary. I have now ^ by me, bottles
which have been three yisars lying un-
der a stair-case, the substances con-
tained in which retain as much flavour
as if they wese just prepared, and yet
they were never pitched.

We have jmt seen, from all that
has been said, that alimentary sub-
stances, in order to be preserved, should
be, without exception, subjected to the
applid^ion of heat in a ' water-bath i
after being rigorously excluded 'from aH
contact with the air, ki the manner,
and with the precautions already indifi^
cated.

The preserving principle ts^ as I

c6 have

LT^ . .-.^^V.

36

hwe ulteady dbterved, invaiiable ia
its eSectB. Thus every loss I have sufeK
taitied from any of the articles beifag
ipoiled, bad no other cflinse than an ckw
roiiedus appfication of the principle!,
or some negligence or omission in the
preparatory process already pointed
wit. It sometime! happens to nieeveti
BOWy thait my operations do not perfeet-
ly succeed ; biit no man makes expert*
ments in any of the arts^ or in any
branch of natural philosophy^' without
being liable to disappointment. Ndhr
can any one^ therefor^ who is employed
in suck a process as mine^ flatty him*
self that he may not sometimes find
iiis' commodities spoiled from some de-
^ct itt a vessel) or in the interior of a
cork. But in ftict^ when due attention
it given^ these losses seldom take placev

.j*lT . ^^_

t^l

§VI.

Tht means tf distingiiisJimg among t%i
Bottles or Jars as they are taken
from the Boiler, suck of them as
from some neglect in the preparatory
process J some accident , or the action
of thje fre, are in danger of oc^
casioning a loss, or spoiling the suh-^
stances inclosed in therh.

When the opefratioki i« competed, |yf
whatever kind it may Be^ I take ^k
greatest care in my power to examine
^U the bottles and jars one by one^' as
1 take them from the fooilen

I have remarked in 6ome» defects in
(the glassy as stars and cracks occasioned
by the action of the heat in the wateii-
baf h ; or by the tjring) when the mouth
f>t the vessel has been too weak.

I have

I have observed in others^ a moisture
round the stopper/ or little spots near
the mouthy from which I inferred that
part of the substance enclosed had
oozed out during the dilatation or expan-
sion produced by the heat of the water-
bath : these are the two principal ob-
servations that usually occur to me : ^nd
whenever I do observe either of these
appearances on any bottle^ I always
set it aside^ and make use of the sub-
stance immediately^ that nothing may
be lost.

The first of the flaws pointed out,
arises from the quality, and originally
bad structure of the bottle ; but the
second may arise from any one of four
causes :— -1, From a bad cork ; 3, from
bad corking ; 3, from the bottle having
been filled too near the brim ; and 4,
from bad tying. A single one of these

faults

39^

feults is sufficient to spoil a bottle ;
more easily^ therefore, a complication
of them. •

In the ai^lying of beat to the water*
bath, I have had various obstacles to
encounter, more particularly when peas
were to be preserved ; for peas are of
all substances the most difficult to pre*
serye completely. This vegetable when
gathered while it is too young or too ten-
der, dissolves in water, and in conse-
quence the bottle is fcmifd half empty^
and even this half is not fit to be kept ;
hence, whenever this circumstance oc-
curs, I set aside the bottle and makd
we of the article immediately. If the
peas have been gslthered two or three
days, the h^at occasions them to lose
all their flavour; they become hard;
they ferment before the operation ; the
bottles break in the water-bath with an

explosion ;

4^

p^09ip^; ihoBeyrhich resist thelbstl
IkCBt break afterwards^ or are &ultyj
and this is easily recognized by. tt)Q
liquor in the bottle^ which becomes
turbid ; while peas which are well pre-
fervedy leave the liquid pellucid.

. It is not necessary to reconutiesnd dist
patch and the utmost cleanlinesa in t)fe
preparation of alii^sentary substanc^^
This is absolutely iiidispeiliiabl6 ; mbre^
especially in what respects thesubstanc^
themselv^, which ai^ to be pk^servedv

' «

, I take car« to have all «iy pi^eparatory
^rrat^menls made before I begin th«
process ; that tliere may b$ no Waitings
and that the best use m^y be .made
• of the time em,ployed in carrying it on»^

DESCRIITION

4i

JDESCRIPTIOKOF MY PROCESS^ AS APPLIED'
TO THE VARIOUS ARTICLES IKTENDEJS
TO BE PRESERVED*

4 VIL

Boiled Meat.
(PoUaU'Feu de Mdnage).

I put a quantity of meat into the
pot to be boiled in the ordinary way,/
When it was three-fourths boiled^ \
took out. one haXt of it^ the bones of
which I had already taken ofif^ as J pur*^
|K)sed to preserve it, When the mea^
was coinpletejy boiled^ I strained the
broth^ and after *it had become cool^ I
put it in botdes which I corked wellf
tied and wrapped up in their several
bags. The beef which I had taken out
when three-fourths done, I put- into
jars which I filled up with a part of the
same broth* Hav4ng corkec^* luted»

and'

* «^!« '^«

4d

and tied up these^ and wrapped them in
bags^ I placed them and the bottles
containing the broth^ upright in a caul*
dron or boiler. I filled this boiler with
cold water up to the rim of the bottles
and jars. I put the lid upon the boiler^
causing it to rest on the vessels within^
and took care to surround it with a wet
linen cloth in order to impede as much
as possible, any evaporation from thd
water-bath. I heated the boiler, and
when the water-bath had been made to
boil, I kept up the same degree of heat
for an hour, and precisely at the end of
the hour, let the fire pass into an ex-
tinguisher. Half an hour afterwards,
I let off the water from the bath, by
means of the cock at the bottom of the
boiler. At the end of another half hour
I took off the lid. An hour or two
afterwards, I took out the bottles and
jars« (The time of doing this is^ how '
* evefj

43

^ver^ immaterial^ and the operator wilt
consult his own convenience.) The
nelt day I besmeared the corks with
rosin in order to forward the bottlea.
and jars to different sea^-ports.

' At the end of a year^ and a year and
half, the broth and boiled meat were
found as good as if made the day they
were eaten.

§ VIII,
Gfnwy*

In the year 12^ having reason to hope
that I should be employed to provide
aome nourishing provisions for the sick
on board his majesty's vessels, in con-
sequence of some experiments which
had already been made in the sea-ports^

by

44

\}y order of his Excellency the Mimster.
of the Marine and Colonies^ on ali-^
jnentary 'productions preserved ac*
cording to my method; I made the*
necessary arrangement for foiaUing the.
orders I had reason to expect. In con-
sequence^ that I might n6t .wtot too
many bottles and jars^ and that I might
be able to condense the substance of
eight messes in a bottle of the size ot
one litre, I made the following ex«
periment. As in general^ evaporation
cannot take place^ but at the expence of
the object to be condensed^ * I made
some gravy in the proportion of two
pounds of good meat and poultry to
che litre. My grivy being ipa^ Imd

istrained

* Jellies, essences of meat, the substanqe of ice and
portable soups, which are prepared from the soft and White
(Airts of linimals, presenfed at a great «zpence by /neans of
evaporation, and drying in stoves with the aid of harts*
horn aifd isinglass, famish merely factitious aliments
Without flavour or any other than a borat or mouldy taste.

4ft^

«trtined.and sufifemd tOLbecome o<k^^ f
put it in ixittles* After having w^
corked, and tied the bottles and wrap*
ped them in bagri placed them in the
boiler. I had taken out^ when one
quarter dressed^ the best pieces of the
beef and poultry. When these were
grown cold^ I put them in jars^ and filled
the jars with the same gravy. Having
well corked^ luted/ tiedand wrapped up
these jars, I set them upright in the
same boiler with the bottlesiof gravy^
Having filled the boiler with cold water
up to the; rim of the bottles and jats^
and having covered the lid of the boUer
tvith a wet linen cloth I heated the
water-bath. Whea it v^s made to
boil I: kept up the sanie degree of h(ei^
for two hours, and ocNoapleted this, opey
ration as I did the preceding.

The beef .and fowls were found wejl

dressed

4S

dr^sed and were kept as well as ' ihc
^nny for more than two years.

MX.

Broth, or Jelly.

' I composed this jelly, accordiiig to
the prescription of a physician, of
calves feiet and lights^ red cabbage, car-**
rots,' turnip, onions, and leeks> taking a
sufficient quantity of each. A quarter
of an hour before I took this jelly from
the fire, I added some sugar-candy
with some Senegal-gum. I strained it
as soon as it was made. After it was
cold it was put in bottles, which were
corked, tied, wrapped up in bags, and
put in the water-bath which was kept
boiling one quarter of an hour, and this
jelly was preserved and remained as
/ , good

Ipod as it was the day on which itWai
made.

^ X.

"Round of Btefy Rllei of MUion^
Fowb and young Partridges.

. I prepared all these articles as if for
common use^ but only three-fourths
dressed, the young partridges being
roasted. When they were grown cold,
I put these articles separately into jars
of a sufficient size. Having well cork-
ed, luted, tied and wrapped them up,
I put them all into the water-bath
which was kept on the boil for half an
hour. They were forwarded to Brest,
and from thence were sent to Sea for
four months and ten days, together
<with some vegetables, gravy, and pre*

ser\ ed

n

4ft

ievnd trnlk, all well padeed Ojp ia f;
chest.

*

m

When opened^ eighteen different
kinds of preserved food were tasted^
every one of which had retained its
j^eshness; and not a- sickle subslsaaee
had undei^ipye the least. change M Sea.

To the experiments made with these
four kinds of provisionti^ I can-addtwd
others made by myself ; the one, a
fricasee of fowls ; and the other, a mate^*
lot of eels, carp, and pike, with an
addition of sweet^bi^ad, mushrooms,
onions, butter and anchovies, alltiressed
in white wine. The fricasee and :the
toatelot were perfectly presterved.

These results prove sufficiently that
the same ' principle, applied-with the
aame preparatory process^ and with the.

same

^me care and pve9aution9^ in general
preserves all animal productions. But
it is to be observed -tiiat in the previous
cooking of each article^ it is to be on-
ly three-fourths dressed at the utmost^
in order that the remainder of the re-
quisite cooking may be communicated
by meaM of ^the water«^b«thi

Thereareanumbert)f artides which
teflibearan additional hour of boiling
in the watef-bath without any danger^
aabroth, gravy, j^Uies and the essences
of meat, poultry and ham, the juice of
the grape and of plants, &c. But
tbene are also others which will sustain
a great injury from a quarter of an
bour*s or even a minute^s too much
boiling. Thus the result will always-
depend upon the dexterity, intelligence
and judgment of the operator.*'

* the celebrated CUAPTAL tMyn, in h» Mlhnent de

L ,-. -.-

J

—-mmyi^^^imm JL H. TSBSHlHWBa

ftt

^ XL

New-bdd Egg^^

The more fresh the egg is, the longer
it withstands the heat of the water-bath.

chimie, dUamrs ^/limimUre, p, ezxziy ** We hear Itt
mana^Ktories of nothing but the cmpric$ of e^^erimeTU,
hut this tagae4>hrase has its origin only in the ignorance
idn^ich the workmen are of the true principles of their
irt$ for nature does not act according to any piiodpte of
discernment^ but obeys constant laws. The dead matter
which we employ in our manufactories, exhibits necessary
cfiects in which the will can have no share, and conse-
quently can have no caprice. Make yourself acquainted^
we should say to the manual operator, with the substance
on which you are to operate, study better the principles of
your art, and y&n will be able to foresee, predict and eal«
Cttlate every tbing. It is your ignorance alpne which
renders your operations a constant groping in the dark,
and a discouraging dtemation of success and disai^int-
ment/^

In fgict, the operator who proceeds with a perfect know-
edge of the principles of his art, and of the results of itt
application, will never ascriiiic the failure of his process to
caprice, bat will impute it to the neglect of some indis-
pensable

51

I consequently took eggs the day they
hftd been laid, plaeed them in a jar
with raspings of breads to fill up the
Tacuities^ and secure them against
(breaking when removed to a distance.
Having well corked, tied and luted the
jars, &C. I placed them in a boiler of
a proper size * to give them seventy-
five degrees of beat, "f* Having taken

2 the

*

4

peasable precaution m the s^plication of his principle ;
tnd his disappointment will senre as a ^ide for him to
calculate better and improve his preparatory protest.
Convinced that the effects that flow from his pripcipk aie
invariable, he knows that every kind of loss and damag^e
can proceed only from an error in the application of hit
principle.

* This operation performed on a great scale« that is in m^
larger boiler, would reqnire too much exactness, as it
would be more difficult to command just the due degree of
heat in such a boiler than in a small water-bath which may
be set on and taken off at pleasure.

t That is, of Reaumur, or 200 of Fahrenheit, in like
manner, the eighty of Reaumur, or boiltng' point metH"
lioto«i belowj is 213 of Fabienbcit. T.

12

tire wffter-^bsth fo>ib the ^, I took
ant the eggs as soon as the 'vnBiet Wari
80 «<!od[ thiit I douU piit jmy &^ger is itf
I then -tooktrnt the*e^ ^nd kept iSsk^m
six iB^nthft. Ax libeeiidfof that period
I tdok the i^s out of the jaf > put tbem
into cold wat«r which I set on the. fire
and heated it to seyenty-five degrees, I
fetind tiffin fit to dip a toast of bread
'mtb, and as fresh 'as when I prepared
them. As to hard eggs, which are to
be cut into sUces and 'fricaseed, I heat
the water-baih eighty degrees^ and as
s6dn as It begins to boifl, I lemolve tfacf
water-bath from the fire.

^ XU.

Mlk.

I took twelv^e litres o{ milk fresh from
tiieeowi X «oad«iM^ it in the watec

bath

»3

I

imth ai^d rediiCjed it t^ two-tl^irds of it»
volume^ frequently Bkimmii^ it. Then
I strained it through a houltlng cloth-
Whsn eoid I took from i^ the skim
whidt had risen while it wflU coqliiig^
and bottled it^ with the usual process^
And afterwards put it in the water4)ath
which I let hoil for two hbiurs ; und at
the end of several months, I p«f ceiv^d
that the cream had f eparnt^ iti^lf aHlJl
was swimming in the bo^Ie iq tl^
form of flakea* To obviate thif incoiir
venimoe, I madi? a teoond »p0rimen|
on a like qnantity of milk whi4h I eon^
denied in the wat^r^bathj i^edupin|; ^t
to one half instead of one third si I hii4
doqe the former. I then add^ to th4
milk^ so re&ieed^ the yolks ^f eight
new-laid eggs well beaten.. HaFin^
left th^ whole thus well mingled half
an hour on the fire, I completed the ex*

p 3 periment

64

periment as before. This expedient
perfectly succeeded.

«

The yolk ^ egg had so completely
combined all the particles^ that at the
end of a year, and even of eighteen
months, the milk remained as fresh as
when I pttt it in the bottles. The first
also was preserved more than two yearsi
The cream wbic^ was in flakes disap-^
peared when put on the fire. Both
sustained iite boiling alike. From
both, butter and whey were afterwards
obtained. In the difierent experiments
and- chymtcal analyses to which they
were exposed, it was found that the
last, being much the better, was equal
to the best cream sold at Paris to drink
with coflfeer . .

^ XIIL

6&
^ XIII.

I took five Utres of cream taken with
care from milk of the preceding
evening • I condensed it in the water-
bath to four UtreSy without skimming
it. I took off the skirn^ which was
formed above, in order fo strain it
through a boulting cloth afterwards^
and let it cool. After having taken ofjT
the skim which had risen while cooling,
I put it in half bottles, observing the
usual process^ and let the water-bath
boil for one hour.

At the end of two years this cream
was found as fresh as if prepared the
same day« I made some good -fresh
butter with it ; making from four to
five ounces of butter from half a litre

§

of cream.

O 4 ^ XIV.

»$

t prepared some whey by the ordinary
process. When clarified^ and grown
cold, I put it in bottles^ ice. aiid let it
remain in the water-bath whicb was
boiling one hour, ttowever well the
whey may be clarified ; when put into
the water-bath» the application of the
^eat always detaches some particles of
clieese which are ileposited. {.preserved
soa>e in this way two and three yedrs,
and before I made use of it^ I strained
it that it might be very clear . On an
emergency you may content yourself
with carefully decantering the whey for
this purpose.

^ XV.

if

^ XV.

^be produui^Qns of difierevt cojujijLriet
more or less early, and varies their
^uftlitie^ kinds aqd denomioi^tions^*
%tte];itiou vi^iU ¥e giyen by tbe x>per9tor
to th^ circjiffi^appc^ ^f l;be .spot u^
jsvbicb he f;fwle^« v

At P^ris and its environs^ June and
July are the best months for preserving
green peas (petits jpgis verts) ^ small
Windsor beans (petites'fives de marais),

' D ^ . and

• For this reason'fbe'tmnslator udds the original names
ol the Tegeiah^8, tcf^^ M* ^ fn»y 4in|pen that some of
thekiodsof fruits and roots mentioned by the author, do
not exactly Qorrespond yrittx those, which afe oonsijdifed at
the same in this country. 'Whatever peculiarities there
-«»y l^.ia!tiie irtiiles |bcn4tlv9l« 'tliese will JiaoUy offset
^ thjB tflS4t|x|eat they haye to undergo in the prooeu of pre-
serving thtm. Tn

and asparagus (asperge). At a later pe^
riod^ these vegetables suffer greatly from^
heat and dry^ss. In August and Sep-
tember I preserve artichokes (arti^
chauts), French beans (haricots vertS et
hlcmesjy and cauliflowers (choux-fleursjf.

In general, all vegetables intended
to be preserved should be used as re-
cently gathered as possible^ and pre-
pared with the utmost rapidity, so that
there should b^ as it were, but one step*
from the garden-bed to the water-bath.

Green Pew,
(Petits pots verts.)

'The ctamart and the crochu are th^e-
two kifida of peas which I prefer, ea*

, peciaSy

SB

peddly the latter^ ivhich is the most
juicy and sweet of all^ as well as th^
earliest^ except the nUchaux (hastings)^
which is the first pea^ but this kind is
not fit to be presenred, I gather the
peas whe^ they are not too young and
tender^ for they are apt to dissolve in
water during the operation^ I take
them when they are of a middling size.
They are then in a more perfect state,
and have an infinitely finer taste and
flavoun I shell diem as soon as they are
gatiiered. I separate the large ones
ind they are then put in bottles, the
bottles being for that purpose placed on
the stool before mentioned^ in order
that as many peas as possible may, by
shi|k^ig the bottle, be made to go into
them ; I then cork the bottles, &c« and
put them in the water-bath, which is
jnade to boil for an hour and half, if the
season be cool and moist i and two

j> 6 hours

^■x — ^^n^^^i'^m

fid

hottta 'in SL'dty ttDd hdt MaMM $. «md I
terminate >tile-<»t)ei«k{ioia «b btfd)^

1

^fakh I had ise|Mral!«d trMn tboii^
wIiioli*w^r<e ilnbre delicate. Ttiea^ i^
I -pot iMo the tv^ef.hifdi whidi t kt
boil aecoreHn^td live «easdtiy twd bdvert^
of tn>« hovti iaftd ^«ai %all

^ xiva«

oae, eMi^ N^ilb tie tMHe, «r «ii#
buds Ml^.>-«S«fe)tei^%hetti «!%«»:-
tteii or jAi^, I phingt!*ttfer!tt^ttt»ti^^

Wt€t, in ot*rto tdfce -tlvirtsy Ihfe ftei-

The

\y

«1

The stelks ore pteced in the jar»
#fth ^rea^ care^ the heads being
^oumwards: the buds ate put m
hMdes. After both are vf^M tirain-
Ml^ I coift the bottles, See. and I put
iitnetn in flie watfer*bath, where they
remain orAy tiH the water tiioroa^ly
boils.

Windsor Beans^
fPetites Jh)€S de mdroh.)

: Ifeitlnrtfae^;^iiei«fe:(tfae.8i»rfU(drM

■BHI7 uDr <ISc jWtKnnKy WBBli 96^

sembles it^ are fit to be ffeterved. I
make use of the genuine Windsor, or
broad bean^ which is of the thickness
and breadth of the thumbs when ripe.
I^si^httr it very small^ about the sixe of

the

mmm

1

the end of the little fit^r, in ocdar to
presare it with its skia. A» the*i«
becomes browa wbea in contact with
the air^ I take the precairtion of put^
ting the beans in bottles as socm as
shelled. When the bottles are fuU^
the beans having been shaken down
gently on the stool^ and in that waj
the vacancies in the bottle having been
filled tip ; I add to each bottle a little
bunch of savory ; I cork them quickly
in order to give them one hour*s boiling
in the water-bath. When this vege*^
table has been quickly gathered^ pre*
pared and preserved^ it has a whiter
greenish oolour : on the contrary, vrhea
4ie operation has been tardy^ it becones
brown and hard.

1

4X1X

€3

^ XIX.

Peeled Windsor Beam,
(Fives de marais dinAies.)

In order to preserve Windsor bean»
stripped of their skins^ I gather them
larger^ about half an inch long at the
utmost. I take off the skin^ bottfe
them with a small bunch of savory^
&c. and I put them in the water->
bath^ which is made to boil an hour and
haK

French Beans.
(Haricots verts et bkmes.)

The bean known by the name of
ha^l^, which resembles the Swiss
bean> is the kind fittest to be presented

greea

pees, vith tfaepod. It ctMubiiws uni-
C:xBikr widi the best taste. I cause
tbe faei^tD be gBfliCTed as fer ordinary
^K. I sCrif^ tlieaij ukI p«t them in
bacies, tiHng riir to shake them on
tbesnot, to fill the vacancies in the
batiks. I then cotk the bottles and
pd them io the tnter-bath, which is
t> Kxl an boor and half. When the
Ivus aie ntfaer lai^, I cnt them
fa yJiways into two or' three pieces :
amd th^ tfan- do not require being in
dx nicr-bath kx^a' tiian one hour.

Of the kiD^ of harioot, of which
tbe seeA or beans AemKlves are to
be pRscrved, the SotMsom haricot is
jnstljr eabtkd totlie fgeSucBOB. For
want of that, I take the beat of any
other species of tije karieat WoRc^at
I can meet witii. 1 gather it when the
sheH b^Ds -to turn ydlow. I ^ileI^
shell

6i

sh^U it immediately, and bottle h|
&c. 1 put it ia the watsr-batb^ to giY^
it a tvi^o holers' boilingr

t

I.

(Artichauts.)

To pUBferve articitokea whole, I gi*
(b^r them of a middling size ; after
having taken off all the useless leavea
and pared them, I plunge them into
boiling water, and immediately after*
wards into cold water. Having drained
them, I put them into jars which are
corked, &c., and they receive an hour's
boilings

To preserve cut artichokes (enquar^

Hefsjy I divide them (taking fine spe^

> cimens)

€6

cimens) into eight pieces. I take oitt
the choke and leave very few of the
leaves. I plunge them into boiling
water^ and afterwards into fresh water.
Having been drained^ they are then
placed over the fire in a saucepan^ with
a piece of fresh butter^ seasoning, and
fine herbs. When half dressed^ they
are taken from the fire and set by to
cool. They then are put in jars^ which
are corked, tied, luted, &c. and placed
in thewater-bath, in which they k^
ceive half an homr's boiling.

^ XXIL

Cauliflowers.
(Choux-fleurs.)

I plunge the cauliflower^ like the ar-
^tidioke^ in boiling water^ aad tha^ iii

cold

cold water^ after having first plu<^ed it.
When well drained, I put it in jars,
which are corked, &c* I place it in
the water-bath^ in order to give it half
an hour's boiling, &c.

As the seasons vary, and are some-
times dry and sometimes moist, it will
be soon obvious, that it is necessary to
study and adapt the various degrees o^
heat required according to the season.
Attention to this circumstance must
never be disregarded. For instance,
in a cool and damp year, vegetables
are mor6 tender and consequently more
sensible to the action of fire. In this
case, the water-bath should be made
to boil seven or eight minutes less ; and
in dry seasons, when vegetables are
^rmer, and better support the Miction
of fire; seven or eight minutes boiling
•hould be added.

dfi'

• «

(OstiOeJ

I gather oseiHe (sorrel)^ beUe-damie*
funrde (beet)^ laitue (lettice)> cerfeuit
(chervil)^ ciiou/e(greea onipu)> &c. in fit
proportions. When they have all been
well plucked, wash^^ drained^i and min*
ced> I cause the whole to be stewed toge*
ther in a copper vessel well tinned. These
vcigetables.ou^ht ito be well stewed^ as
U for dail^ use^ ^d not ddod up and
^uraed as is often dono in familieaj^
when it is intended to preserve them.
This quantity of stewing is the most
fit. When my herbs are thus prepared*
I set them to cool in earthen or stona
vessels^ Afterwards I put theoi ia

bottlea

• A ipeciet of the BeUa-iMUi Tery geneialljr made 1S8#
•I «f M iAftedient ia Fitach soopi. T«

I

Bottles viittfa a' wide liioiHfth. I task
tbem, tic* and I puit my soirel in iho
water-ibath^ ivhioh is allowed a quartets
of an hour!s boiUiig mtttfy* This dme
is sufficient for preserving it ten years
untouched, and :as fresh as if it vras
jost telBenifrom^etgardn. Tthis^modii
is^ witbofti disputd, lise besltvaad nMt
eoonoiaicaA:£Dr ifiBtaiilies .and hol|iilalsy
civil -and mtlitarif • It as^ abo^ jdl^
tatoA MiiMiMgoom to tha.Navy:: dbr
fiTtrd'thiii prepaMd rm^ be Isfromf^t
finom tthe Imiics, as. £paBh)aiid-:8avQiir^
m S dresied the aatneday*

^JOUV.

Spinage, Succory, and other Herbs*
(jEpinards et chicories J

i^orfrd'cnd raccoay aie prepared a$ if

^ daUy we* When .fresh gathe|e4i

plucked^

•

.^ u , — - -«— -^^^

70

{Sucked^ scalded^ cooled^ squeezed and
minoed^ I put them in bottles^ &c.
to give th^n a qixarter of an bourns
boifing in the water-batb^ t&c*

CalTots, cabbages^ turnips^ parsnips^
enion^^ potatoes^ celery, chardoons
(eardms dEspagne), red beet, and
generally, all vegetables .may be pre^
served alike, either simply scalded, or
prepared with soup, in order to be tised
when taken out of the vessel. In the
first case, I cause the vegetables to be
scalded and half boiled in Water with a
little salt. I then take them from the
water in order to strain them and let
them cool ; and afterwards put them
into bottles, and into the water bath*
I let the carrots, cabbages, turnips,
parsnips, and red beet, remain in the
water-bath while it boils one hour:
and the onions, potatoes, and celery,

&c.

lOBB

[

71

he. half an hour. In the other ea9#
I prepare my vegetables with soup^
mther with or without meat^ as for or«i
dinary use. When three-fourths
boiled and well prepared and seasoned^
I take them from the fire to let them
cool. Then I put them in bottles, &C4
and give them a good quarter of au
hour*8 boiling in the water-bath*

A Soup called JuUenne.

I compose a Julienne of carrots^
leekSf turnips^ sorrel^ French beans^
celeiy , green peas, &c. These I pre-
pare in the ordinary way, which con-
sists in cutting the carrots, turnips,
leeks, French beans and celery into

small

7«

Midi pieeies^ cither Mimd or loflig.
Hsmfig'WeH jAucked and wished %hemf
I ]^t th^e vegetiibles into a savicepaiy
over the fire, * with a lai^i^ pieoe of
Jreslh butter. When these awj half-
done^ I a^ fhe sorrd and ^green '|)eas #
After fhe whole has'beem stewed down,
I moisten the vegetables with good'
gravy^ prepared fer the purpose, with
good meat and poultry. I let the whole
boil half an hour; iHien I withdraw the
fire to let it grow cool ; and having put
the Julienne into bottles^ &c. I let it
boil half an hour in the water-bath.
Julienne prepared in*thrs way, has been
kept by me more than two years^.

The JuKenne au maigre is prepared^
ill the same manner^ except that^'
instead df gravy, I moisten ^ny vege*
tables, when well dret^sed, with a clear'
vegetable soup, either of French beans,

lentils^

73:

lentils, or large green peas, which I
have preserved ; and I give it in like
manner half an hour^s boiling in the
water^bath*

^ XXVI.

Vegetable Sotqf*
(CcmUs de Racine$)»

I compose and prepare a v^table
soup in the usual way ; I make the
Mup so rich^ that a bottle of the size of
a litre can supply a dish for twelve
persons^ by adding two litres of water
to it^ before it is made use of. Wlien
it has grown cool^ I put it in bottles, to
give it half an hour's boiling in the
water-bath*

• - ^ XXVII.

, ._ ^ ' % -

7*

§ xxvir.

Lote-Applm.
(Tomates, ou Pommes ^ Amour.)

I gather love-apples very ripe, whea
they have ac^uiied their beautiful
colour. Having washed and drained
them, I cut them iwto pieces and dis-
solve them civer the fire in a copper
vessel well tinned. ,When they gre
well dissolved and reduced one third in
compass, I strain them through a sieve
sufficiently fine to hold the kernels.
When the whole has passed ttirough, 1
replace the decoction on the fire^ and 1
condense it till there remains only one
third of the first quantity. Theiv I let
them becpme cool in stone par^s, and
put them in botttes, &c./ in order to
give^them >one good boiling only, in the
water- bath.

I have

* 7*

I faare not ypt tried any experiments
with the flower of the love-apple, bat
there is no doubt that this new met^iod
will 4^uiruish means of deriving, at a
slight expence, a great value from theas
also.

^ XXVIII.

Herbs and Medicinal Plants.
(Plantes Potagkres et M^dicinales) .

I filled a bottle with mint (menth€
"poivrde) in branches and full of flowers,
1 stirred it with a stick to make the
bottle hold a greater quantity of it, I
corked it well, &c. and gave it a slight
boiling in the water-bath. It was per-
fectly preserved.

The same may be done with all

£ 2 plants

76

plants to be preserved in bunches. The
operator will calculate the degree of
heat which it will be necessary to give
to the several subjects of his expe-
riment.*

§ XXIX.

* The mode of extracting the juice of plants hj meant
of water has more or less incoaveniecce. All those
juices Wliich have a principle that is rttj volatile and easy
to evaporate, lose in&nitely, even in warm water } mnch
more so therefore, when the heat of the water is raised to
a higher degree^ and when the plants have been left for a
long time in digestion.

Aromatic vegetables are infused, when the object is to
preserve the aroma, and. not imiiart to the watef the
extractive principle which the plant contains. Theitfore,
tea and cofibe are made by infusion. But all the theories
ancient and modem, and all the new appaiatas employed
to seize and hold fast the aroma of ihe coffee ara still wtgf
deficient.

Ebolliiioa which is often times snorted to in onler to
extract the aroma of ptanu by means of distillation,
in spite of all the appatatos made use of for keefmig the
same closed up, most frequently destrojrs the nature of the
productions, .

Not

77

§ XXIX.

ITie Juices of Herbs.

I have succeeded in preserving very
well the juices of such plants as lettuce,
chervil, borage (bouracfie), wild succory
(chicorie savvage) 9 water-cresses (cresr^
son de fontaine), &c. I prepared and
purified them by the usual process, I
corked them, &c. in order to give them
one boiling in the water-bath.

s 3 § XXX*

Not^nly are the principles extracted by the water in-
jfottd bf thi« Urat operation^ but they scarcely tetain any
•ttentth after the evaporation which it Is usual to make
them undergo, in order to form essences of- them. The
'extract therefore, exhibits nothing bat the appearance of
the soluble and nutritive principles of vegetable and animal
substances ; since fire, srhtch js necessary to form an essence
by means of evaporation, destroys the aroma and almost stl
ttie propestiei of the substance which contains it.

?8

Fruits find their ^uk^.

Fruits and their juices require the
utmost celerity in the preparatory pro-
cessj and particularly io the application
of heat to the water-halJb,

The fruit wluch ia to he preserved
eith^ whole or in quajrters^ ought not
to be completely npe> beeause it dis*
solves in the water-bath. In like man-
ner it should not be fathered either at
the commencement or the end of the
season. The first and the las^t of tb4
crop have neither the fine flavmir^ nof
the perfume of those which are gather-
ed in the heighth of the season^ that
is^ when the greater part of the crop
of each species is ripe at the same
period,

4XXXI.

79
^ XXXI.

White and Red Currants in Bundles.
(Groseilles rouges et blanches en

Grappes.)

I gather the white and red currants
apart, and not too ripe. , I collect the
finest, ^nd in the finest bunches ; and
I bottle them, taking care to shake
them doWn on the fetool^ in order to fill
up the vaQancies in the bottle. Then I
cork thenpr, &c. in ord<er to put them in
the water-bath which I am careful to
watch closely; Bud as soon as I per**
ceive it boils, 1 withdraw the fire ra-
pidly, and a quatter of an hour after-
wards draw off the water from the bath
by me;ans of the cork, &c,

• » 4 § XXXII.

4

80

V XXXII,

fVhite and Red Currants^ stripped.
(Grroseilles rouges et blanche^ igreh^es.)

I strip the white and red currants
apart. They are immediately put into
bottles^ and 1 conclude the operati<m
with the same attention as in preserving
the currants in bunches. I preserve a
greater quantity of currants stripped^
than in bunches ; as the stalks always
give a harshness to the currant juice.

^ XXXIII.

Cherries, Raspberries, Mulberries.
(Cerises, Framboises, Mures et CassisJ

• I gather these fruits before they are
too ripe, that they may be less squeez-
ed

81

ed in the operation. I put them in
separate bottles, and shake the bottles
gently on the stool. I cork them, &c.
and I complete them in the same man-*
ner^ and with the same care as the
currants.

^ XXXIV.

Juice of Red Currants.

•

I gather red currants quite ripe, and
squeeze them upon fine sieves. I put
into a press the skins which remain
upon the sieves, in order to extract all
the juice which may be in them, and
this I mix with the former juice. I
perfume the whole with a little rasp-
, berry juice^ and 1 strain this decoction
through a sieve finer than those used
- before. I put the juice in bottles^ &c.

E 5 and

o

flnd expose them to the wisLter-bath,'
with the same attention as the stripped
currants^ &c.

I proceed in the same mamier with
the juice of white currants and bar-
berries (SpineS'Vinettes) i as well as

- • ••

with that of pomegranates, oranges^
and lemons. ^

Strawberries.
(B^aises.J

I made a number of experiments on
the strawberry, and hi various way^j,
without being able to obtain its perw
fume. I was forced to have recourse
to sugar; in consequence, I squeezed
some strawberries, and straitaed them

through

8S

&rofigh a iUtve, m if J were aboctt to
UMike ice. I added hcilf a pound of
pfmder sugar^ with the juice of half a
temon^ to a pound of Btrawberries. 1
mixed the whole together, and put the
decoction m bottles ^ich I corked,
ftb. I exposed it fo a water- bath till it
began to boil, &c. This mode suc«
ceeded yery well, in every respect ex-
cept the cokmr, which was considerably
fircfcd ; but that may be supplied.

^a

-*' "

^ XXXVI.

Apricots.
(Abricots.)

For the table, the wild and garden
apricot (fabric&f commun, et tabrkot^
pSehe) both taken from trees standing
free in the open air, are the best kinds

£ jS for

:84

for preservation : I commonly tningib
these two kinds together^ because the
former supports the latter^ which has
more sugar in it^ and which dissohrea
more from the action of heat* . Tb^
may nevertheless be prepared apart>
provided the precaution be tal^en of
letting the garden peach remain a few
minutes less in the water-bath than the
wild peach. That is, as soon as thfii
ivater-bath begins to boil, the fire is t^
be taken away Irom the garden peachy :
while the fire may be allowed to remain
under the wild peach until the water-
bath completely boils.

I gather the apricots when they are
ripe, but somewhdt firm; when, on
being squeezed gently between the fin-
gers, the stone is perceived to detach
itself from the fruit. As soon as ga-
thered, I cut them in halves^ take out

the

»l

86

^ stone^ and peel off the skin with a
knife as delicately as possible. I put
them into bottles^ either in halves or
quarters^ acccnding to the size of the
mpath, and shake them on the stool to
fill up the vacancies. I add to each
bottle from twelve to fifteen almonds ;
I cork them and put them into the
waler-bath to receive one boiling only ;
and I instantly withdraw the fire with
the same precaution as made use of in
the preparation of llie currants, &c.

^ XXXVIL

Peaches and Nectarines^
(PicheSy Brugnons.)

T!he grosse ndgnonne and the caJande
are the two kinds of peach which unite
the most flavour and perfume. For

want

M

• #

#«nt of ibeset I - like the b«ff 1 ' mk

f • t r

aieet wiA.

Ig^er the nec^rkte(ln%tgnM}mor
ttpc thta the ^eacb^ becattte it'supportij
the heat better : scA^ ott the other htt^d,
I teare the skin on it in dnfcr to pre-
serve it. Moreover, the same prdtes^ is
observed as in preserving the necterrne,
the peach/ and thie- apricot ; in every
instance watching the 'water-bath close*
ly, as I dfcr itr pi^eiternhg the bmich^
of currants.

Vxxxviii.

Prunes frcim GreiBn Gages, and'Plumls*
(Prunes de' Reine-Ctdtide et MirO"

1 have made prunes of whole green-
gages^ Including the'stoiie and the stalk,

as

• • » • • ,

as well ti9 of olher great plums ; ntA
even of perdrigons and alhergtSy whkill
succeeded very well. But there ar*
these inconveniences in preserving fli^
largest fruits whole, that ffew of these
large plums can be put into even, a
large jar, since the vacancies cannot be
filled up by shaking the fruit, without
altogether crushing them; and that
when the heat of the watef-bath is a^^
pKed to them, they shtink, and the

jars are found half empty.

«

In consequence, I have abandoned
this too expensive modej and am ac^
customed to preserve all these large
plums, cut in halves, after having ta-
ken out the stone. This is the easiest
and most economical manner, corks of
a sufficiently large size for large objects
being very dear, and also rare^ When
'the cork is vety fine; the vessels too

which

S8

vildch have a narrow or middling neck
are more easy to be well corked^ and
the operation is in consequence more
certain. As to the mirabelle [a small
white plum] and all other small plums^
I prepare them with the stone in them^
after having taken off the stalk ; for
they are in this way easier to shake
close^ and they leave but few vacancies
in the bottles. In general, I observe^
in the preservation of all these prunes^
either whole or cut in halves, the same
process, care and attention, which I
have pointed out under the head of
apricots and peaches.

§ XXXIX.

Pears of every kind*

When the pears are peeled, and cut
into quarters, and the pips with their

husks

89

«

liUftksare taken otit^ I put them .into
bottle«j &c. in order to place them in
the water-bath. I carefully attend to
ike degree of heat they have to receive^
which, if they are of a kind usually
eaten raw^ should not be more than
sufficient to make the water-bath boiU
When' the preserve consists of pears
tisually stewed or boiled^ then I let them
remain boiling in the water-bath, five or
six minutes. Pears which have fallen

4

from the tree require a quarter of an
Jaiour's boilii^, &c#

^ XL.

Chesmtts, Truffles^ and Mushrooms.
(Matrons^ Truffes^ et Champignons.J

I pierce chesnuts at the point with the
point of a knife^ as if I meant to roast

them*

90

fhem/ I put tbeixy m bottles^ esid^if*
Btettt one boilkig^ irr i&t Watcff^^baAr;

Having well washed 9!tidt bfusljevl thm
tmffks in order to tafe away all the
doil, Icut off the upper part gently*
withakntfe. Then I put them ifttrf
bottles either whole or iti pieces, ac»
cording to the diameter of the necW
The remainder I put in bcrttles apart/
The whofe being weH corked, See. 1
put them in the water-bath to received
an hour's boiling, &di It is hot neces^^
sary to recommend that the truffles
should be sound, and recently gathered*

r

I take Mushrooms fresh from the bed^
wtA ftntned^ and fiit... Havmg peeted
4ldd WMbeA theai, i piart tbcmm a
saucepan on the fire^^ with & piece of
butter or some goad olive-oil, in order
io make them eject thefr ' liquor. I

Jeave

91

VtSLynt ihem <m the flra till ihw fkfi» ^
seduceil one half* X withdh^w lliem Sti
6ri€T to let them gvow oool in i pati }
tffter which^ I bottle them miA fffW
them one good boiling m the imtitu
httth.

»««a*i

^XU,

j?%e Juice of the Grape or Mush

Daring the vintage of 1808^ I took
Uftck grapes^ ca,f€liil}y gathered from
the vine; after having, taken away 1^
nMten and green gmpes, and itrippedi
the olhefs from the stalks, I s^jwettd.
tlikn upon i. fine deve^ and afterwards
put J0to a pfeas the bnaka which fe-^
mained on the sieve^ in order to eoMract
the remainder of the juice ; and then put
the produce both of the sieve and the

press

i

53

press into one cask. Having let k
stand in this state twenty-four hours,
I pat it in bottles, &c« to give it on%
good boiling in the water-bath. When
the operation was completed, I with-
drew the bottles from the boiler. The
acticxti of the fire had precipitated the
little colour which the grape-juice had
assumed during the preparation, and it
was become very white, I then placed
it in my laboratory in a rack as iS it
had been wine.

. I repeated all these experiments on
^e lOth of September I809, in the
presence of the special commission
nominated by his Excellency the Mi^
ttister of the Interior, composed of the
mo^t distinguished personsrof the pro^
Session «

Nevr ^perimmts which I have be-
gun.

93

guQ^ ; as well as odiiers which I purpose
to make on various objects^ will be de^
tailed in a memoir which I shall publish
as soon as I shall be able to speak of
their result.

OF^ THE MODE OF MAKING USE OIJ
THE SUBSTANCES WHICH HAVE BEEN
PRESERVED.

^ XUL

Meaty Game, Poultry^ Tish

Meat which has in the preparatory
drassiog, as well as the boiling it re-
ceived in tibe water-bath^ received its
due^iiantity of cooking, will, when it is
taken to be used, require only to be pro^
perly warmed in order to produce both
•oup an* meat (^^^6 el Aoiei«^. V

For

9*

For4ifaeiubkie<>f greater eeoaomy^ and
to hssen the number oif Ibottles (uekL
jvs wtnted, it is better to m^ke in thf
first inttanoe a ^od gravy as alraad/
pointed out by me* For both ^e bwf
and the gravy need only to be wanned,
and by adding one half or two-thirds
of water to ibe gravy a good cfoup is
provided.

In this manner^ a bottle containing a
Hire of gravy may^ by adding two Hires
of boiling water to it at the moment
that it is to be used, and adding a little
salt, furnish a dozen good messes. Thus
it as easy at a very sligbt expe^K^ to
keep a little stoek of piqvisipnjs agfiwst
an tmevffeacy and hot wmihgt, . when
it js M difficult to procuve themf lotore
espedalLy ia thecouotry.

All meat^ poultry, gamcj and fisb^

which

»6

which imvf^ Meeived ihiee^Mrdis of
timr dreesiiig in the prepnt^toiy pro*
oesii and the re^aiiider ia the water^i^
bftth as already poifitedout^.tnay:, whea
taken out of the vessels^ be heated t»
the iproper dcigree in order to be ior
•taoitly aenred at table. If^ for inatanoe^
tlie substance taken from the bottle or
jar^ had not receded eother enoqgh
previous dressing, or enough heat from
the weter-badi!; it is ioMnedittely put
an the &s in older to wppiy what if
deficient. Consequently^ when tfa*
operator has taken due care in making
his preparations^ having properly sea-
toned and dressed them, the use to be
made of them afterwards^ will at all
events be easy and convenient ; for pn
the one hand they will need only to
be warmed, and on the other hand,
they may, if necelsary, be eaten cold.

Substances

96

Substances thus prepared and pre«
•eryed, do not, as might be imagined,
require to be consumed as soon as they
are opened. Provisions may . be used
from a vessel eight or ten days after it
has been uncorked,* care being taken
only to replace the cork as socm as the
necessary part of the provision has been
taken out. Besides, it is easy to regu«
late the size of the vessels from one to
twenty-five litres or more, according
to the rapidity of the expected con.^
sumption.

§ XLIII,

* See the report made (o the SocUU d^Snewragemenit
four rindusirie naUonaUf by Mr. Bouriat^ in the name of
the Committee. Two balf-bottlcsy one of milk^ the other
of whey, after lematning uncorked ftom twenty to thirty
days, had been re-corked with little cork ; nevertbetesa
the two attbatancea retained all their properties.

9f
^XLIII,

J^ellies made of Meat and Poultry.

A ivell prepared and preserved jell^t
carefally taken in pieces out of the jai<
may be used to garnish cold dishes^ or
it may be even dissolved in the water-
bathj the vessel containing it being first
uncorked ; afterwards it may be poured
in a dish to congeal again before it is
made use of.

" r

Under an infinity of circumstances^ a
cook may be in want of the substances
necessary to make a sauce with« But
with the essences of meat» poultry^
ham^ &ۥ as well as with a provision of
jelly well preserved and prepared, they
may be furnished in an instant.

The broth or jelly prepared and pre-
served as pointed out in page 46 is eaten

w -either

I

98

ei^bet cold as it is fimnd in the botUes,
or diluted with more or less boiling
water, in Ae proportions which persons
©f e^^ence may judge «uitable in
llie several instances.

^ XLIV.
JtSlk and Cream.

Cream, Milk and Whey, prepared
and preserved in the manner already
pointed out, are used in th6 satoe way,
and for the same daily purposes as the
same articles when fresh. /

Since cream and milk are perfectly
preserved in this manner,, there is tfO
doubt tl^at desert-creams might be pre-
served by a similar process, as well as
those which are used for ices. Thfese,
having been well prepared and com-
pleted

^ihdhddre "Aey am put into fiottleflTii
win only require to be g^tly wtarmed
hi the water^batbj the bottles b»ng unw
corked. In order to facilitate it& cotning
out of the vessel. In this m)einner
ereiLttls and io^s mi^ be fetnished in^
stantly.

^ XLV.

Fegetables*

Vegetables put into bottles without
being dressed, and entirely submitted
to the action of heat in the water-bath,
<a8 before described, require to be pre-
pared fcHT use on bemg taken out of the
'bottles. This preparation will be made
acecMiing to the season, and eveiy
one's taste and inclination. Attention
most be J^ten to the \vashing of the

r Q vegetables

yegetables when taken from the bottle {
and to ikeilitat^ the taking them out^ I
fill the bottle with luke-l¥arm water;,
end after having drained it of the first
water^ I wash the vegetables in a second
water somewhat hpUer, and having
drained them^ I then prepare them for
a meat or vegetable soup.

& XLVI.

• • •

French Beans.
(Haricots.)

I scald French beans (haricots verts J
as if they were fresh in water, with a
little salt when not sufficiently dressed
by the preserving process. This often
happens to them as well as to artichokes,
asparagus and cauliflowers. If suffi-
ciently boiled^ on being taken oi:^ of

the

Ae battles^ I have only to wash theo^
ia hot water io oi'der to prepare them
afterwards for vegetable pr meat soup. ,

. I scald in the same way the beans of
the haricot blanc ; ' when sufficiently
dressed^ I take them from the fire and
leave them in the boiling water, half
an hour, and even an hour in order to
render them more tender ; I then pre-
pare theita for soup.

• •

% XLVII.

PeaSy Beans, 8^c.

. .i

Green peas are dressed in various
frays. If they are ill co(Jced in the
leason, it is the cook who is blamed ;
I^Ut if they are not found good in winter^
the fault is thrown on the person who
lias, {deserved them^ thojigh the faul}:
r , , F 3 mos^

most frecfuently arises hmx§ s^tMHid tka^
Substances eto jioyed; either fto» tlm
bad butter^ er the^ oil op faneid' At
which is made use of through neg-
ligence or economy. At another time
they are prepared two hours two Soon.
They are sufiered to stick to the bottom
of the saucepan when on the flre^ and
they are served smelling of the butter
which is turned into oil with a burnt
taste; or they are prepared without
care and with toQ much precipitation. It
Is thus we see green peas brought to the
table swimming in wa^j&r ; but every
one has his way. The £>Uowing is
mise.

As soon as 1ihepea» hate been wasfe^
and immediately afterwards dtniiied
(for neither this vegetable nor tfa€
windsor-bean mutt be suffered to k^
main in water^ for that would talte

away

103

away thmr fl&vmir), I put them on the
flre in a sanoepan with a morsel of good
fresh butter. I add to them a bunch
of parsky and chives. After having
tossed them several times in batter^ I
dredge liiem with a Ihtle flour^ and
moisten them immediately afterwards
with boilmg water up to the level of the
peas. I leave them thus to be boiled ^
gMd qtiaftor of an hour, until very little
sauce refmains. Then I seaison theib
witti saltand a little P^P^'* ^^d leave
them on the fire watii they aro atawed
down^ I then take them off the fire
immediately, in order to add a piece
of fresh butter av large as a nut^ .with
a table spoonful of powder sugar for
each bottle of peas. I tos» them^ well
without replacing them on tlie fire,
until the butter is melted, and I serve
them up in the shape of a pyramid
upon a dish which I take care to warm

F 4 thoroughly.

104

thorough^. I have observed several
ttmes^ that by adding voffLt to the peat
when upon the Ore, and givii^ them
only one boiling, the peas became lutrd
and the sance ran so that it copld nq^
kmgerbind the peas together. Thuft
great attention should be given to the
not putting in the sugar and llie last piece
of butter until the moment of serving
^em up. Thia is the only way of
dressing them weU^ for neith^ insuBOh-
mer nor winter ought any sauce to ap»
Ipear Maong the peas*

There is another mode of eatijo^
green peas and which may suit many
persons ; this consists in simply boiling
the peas in water. When done, the
water is drained off and the peas are
tossed with a piece of good fresh butter^
aalt, pepper and sugar, all together over
a very gentle fire, they are then . served

.^ . i

105

4ip directly upon a very hot dish* Cai*^
must -be taken that the peas do not boil
with the seasoning, otherwise the butter
turns into oil, and the green peas ar#
dissolved in the water.

«
I cook thesmall Windsor-beans^as weH

^ith as without their skin^ by the same

{>rocess and with the same attentions

which I observe in dressing green pea^^

I make an exceUent soup-maigre^
with large preserved peas which are
equally good for a mieat soup. As to
asparagus^ artichokes^ cauliflowers^ &c.
they are dressed in the usual way after
having been washed^ &;c. Green peas^
beans^ French beans, and all kinds of
vegetables may be three-fourths boiled^
seasoned at the same time, as is done
•when intended for immediate use, put
into bottles or other vessels when cool,

F 5 corked^

106

corked^ &c. and allowed one half
hour's boiling in the water-bath. By
these means variables will be preserved
and quite ready^ which may be madf
use of in an instant^ without acny other
care than to warm them ; and there are
Al^ many instances in which these ve«
^tables may b^ eaten cold. In this
way all diflkulties may be removed im
travelling by land or water*

§ XLVIII.

iSj^nage and Succory.

1 dress spipage and isuccory as usual^
in either vegetable or meat soup* Each
bottle of a litre, contains two or three
dishes either of spina g^ or succory ac«-
cofding to their streAg^. When I
want te make u«e of a part only I re-

cork

107

»

cork the bpttle which I keep for another
day*

§ XLIX.
Kegefahle Soups.

Having emptied a bottle containing a
litre of preserved Juliefine^ I add two
Utres of boiling water with a little salt,
and I have a dish for twelve or fifteen

persons.

«

As well as a Julienne, a coulis de
racines, a sonp of lentils, carrots, oni^
ons, &c, being well prepared, furnishes
with the greatest economy, excellent
dishes in an instant.

r

All farinaceous substances, such as
oatmeal, rice, spelt^ semoulia, ver-
micelli, and in general every thing
that may be formed into a paste, nu*

r 6 • tritivie

tritive and easy of digestion, may be
prepared and seasoned with either ve--
getable or meat-fioup, and even with
miik before they are made to undergo
the preserving process, in order to fit*
cilitate the use of them at sea and itk
armies at a moment of necessity.

^ l;

Tomates and Herhs^

*

I use preserved Tomates or /(we-ajc>pfos
in the same manner as those taken
^resh in the season. They need only
to be properly warmed and seasoned
when taken out of the bottle.

As Sorrel preserved in the manner
pointed out, does not when taken out
.of the bottle in the least differ from
fresh sorrel in June, I make use of it
In the fame way.

As

109

As to mint (menihe powr^e) and alt
dtiier plants which may be preserved in
bunches ; cooks will know how to make
the proper use of them^ as well as of
the jiuces^of herbs«

%IA.

Preserved Fruits^ Marmelades, S^c.

The manner of making use of firuiti
preserved^ by the process I have points
ed out^ consists 1st, in putting such
fruit into a fruit-jar^ in the same stat^
in which it is in the bottlC;^ wit)iout
adding any sugar, because . many per'»
sons, more especially ladies, prefef
fruits with their natural juice. At the
same time I prepare another jar With a
preserve of grape-sjoxip or powder
sugar^ for those who prefer it» I have

fh)m

91^^-^n

6iperi^fiee \esim^, t^at grape^syrap
preserves the aroma, and s^reeable acidity
ei fruits^ much better than sv^s^n
This ia a very simple and €^pnoiiii<:a)
mode of preparing an excellent dish df
preserved fruits, which is the more con-
venient, as every one can satisfy his
own taste as to the mixture of sugar
with his fruits.

2d. In order to make preserves with
impar (eompotes sucr^es), I take a
poi^nd pf preserved fruits, it matters
jipt which ; this, on being taken oi^t of
the bottle, I put, with its juice,over the
£i9 in a skimming pan, mixing with it
ffiir oQnoes of grape syrup. As soon
f9 it begins to boi^ I withdraw it from
ih^ fire, and t^ke off tiie froth by
mieitns of a piece of brpwn paper,
Ifhich I aj^ly to the surface. As soon
M I have yl^flpraed it, I t^^ce the firuit

gently

/

*

If^ady df the symp, in order to put k
into a fruit-jar: After having reduced
the syrup one half gver the fire^ I put
it upon the fruit in the j^. Fruits thui
preserved are sufficiently awee^ and
have as fine a flavour as a preserve
made in th^ season with fresh fruits.

3d. lix order to preserve in brandy
either cherries^ apricots, green-gHg^S,
pears^ peaches, mirabelles, &c. (?roi?i-
|K>#ei d r^ou 4e vi^, t take a pound
of preserved fruit togiether with' i^
juioe, which I put in ^ saucepan, op
the fire^ together with a quarter of a
pound of grape syrup* When rehdy
to boil, I skim ,it; after which, I gently
take the fruit from off the q^aqp;, . and
pnt it in a jar. I leave the syrup om
the fire, till it is reduced ti> one-fourth of
its bulk. Itien I take it from the firp
in order to add to it a gkss of good

brandy ;

"■■spiivwanv

112

brandy ; and having mixed the wbol^^^
I pour the hot syrnp upon the fruit in
i:he jar, which I take care to close weH
that the fruit may be better penetrated
hy the syrUp, &e.

The preserved pear and peach maur
be alike made use of to make a Bur*
gundy wme conserve with cinnamon^
-as well as compotes gtilUes. >

4th. I make a fnarmelade either of
Apricots, peaches, green-gages, or mi^
rabelles, by the following process. I
'take for one pound of preserved iruit,
half a pound of grape syrup. I boil
the whole together over a quick fire,
taking care to stir it well with a spoon
to prevent its boilingl When the mar-
malade is boiled to a slight consistency,
I take it off because the confectionary
which is the least boiled is the beat.

Aa

11»

As preserved fruits afford a facility ot
making confectionary just when it is^
wanted^ they may, by^a little boiling
only be had at any time, fresh and of
excellent quality*.

Currmt Jam*

.» * • • •

The mode of making currant jam'
with the juice of this preserved fruit,
is quite simple. I put half a pound!
of sugar to one pound of currant juice,
which ought to be perfiimed with a
little raspberry. Having clarified and
dissolved my sugar, I put the currant
juice to it, and give it three or four
boiUngs ; and when it &lts . from the
skimmer in small lumps not larger than

a Iratil^

w

ai lei^l, ( tik<9 i% %>m ^ fire tty put il

ima

• - «
In order to make syrup of currants^
I warm the juice of tbis fruit till it is
ready to boil. I then strain it through
a cloth. By thete means I obtain the
raice^ limpid^ and fre^d frpm its mu^
cillaget When strained, I add, ha|f a
pound pi gi;ape syrup to a poupd of
fruity ^nd put th^ whole on the fire to-
gether; when.. boiled, to the consisteixce
pf a flight syrupy I take it. from th^
JBre to put jt in bottles whenjt is
colij.

. • • • ' " • •

There is a very simple and econonxi-
ca} mode of making use^ not only of

currant

eurrant joice^ but, o{ that o all fruits
ivhich are employed to compose an acid
beverage.

This mode consists merely in putting
into a ^kss of water slightly sweetened
with grape sjrrtip^ a tabte spoonful of
the juiee of preserved currant^ or of
any other fruit that may be at hand,
which is poured into another glass and
then drank off. This mode is the more
tonvenieBt, becsfuse it wilt be always
iliiry to* have these preserved juices at
liandi w to^ppocuita^ them at a sm^ltex^
pencei In this- way- my tkmTiy has
b^n, ibr the space of flfteeft years, m
tlie habit ef making . use of currant
Juiiee I and^ most frequency we prepare
this substkute for lemonade, without
either sugar or syrup.

*

fLIV.

r'^W«iWB""""^BP^"»i^^*^^^"""^i^^""^^li^^— ^

116

^ LIV.

Ices.

I have prepared and made^ in ihe
inode usually, employed in the fruit
season^ ices of currants^ raspberries,
apricots^ and peaches^ as well as stravr^
berries, preserved in the maimer point,
ed out by me.

. I made these experiments before th^
late iofiprovement in the art; of making
grape syrup^ but now thapl this prot
Ruction has been brought nearly to p^-f
fection^ the syrup of the acid grape
|3ianufactured by Mr. Privat of Bjfeze^
will soon advantageously supply the
^lace of the juice of the sugar canei
in the preparation of the ices of lruit»
As I have already observed, the grape
syrup preserves the aroma of all fruits

better

117

^ttet than sugar. Sugar overpowers
to so great a degree the taste of
the fruits, that it is necessary to add
isome lemons to liie ices ' of fruits, in
t>rder, as it were, to bring out thft
.aroma. When therefore the juice of
an acid grape shall be made use of> the
lemons will become unnecessary, and
the ' ices of fruit will be the richer.
,The sweet syrups of the grape will be
successfully made use of with' all i<
creams.

% LV.

Cordials*
(Liqueurs J

I have composed liqueurs and rata-
fies with the juice of preserved fruits
and sweetened with grape syrup. These

preparations

M I

■•^■^^1^

i^m

|»f8psmiti<m8 yielded in notbin|f tq to
Vest hodie-made liqpieuni.

The lAmple &ad tisEsy modes which I
liaVe poitited oot^ of preparing every
Icind ot preserved frtiit for flaily -ase^
^tbv^ sufficiently that this melliod^ as
<$tire as k <a tisdul^ wiH^iikrodnce to
-g^rtetest e(k>nomy 4ti the conAsaiptioii
<^ the pfodiKse of to sttg«rM»he^
* Die^iiscitteF, Ktid more'e^oiaUy to
manufacturer^ who is obliged to hy in
during summer^ a considerable stock of
this foreign c^fffmbdity for syrups^
liqueurs and confectionary^ as well as
all the objects of pharmacy^ may dis-
pense with it ; for it will be sufficient
if they lay in an adequate stock of fruit
in the season^ and prepare it in the
manlier pointed oiit^ to be esempt from
the necessity of preparing it with sli-
•^r^ -exb^pt on oil etaieigafcf)r> mad in
. . the

lid

the quantities actualty wanted. It will
follow that the greater part of all these
fruits will be preserved^ altogether
without^ or at least with a small quan*
tity of sugar ; that many of them will
be prepared with grape syrup^ and that
the sugar from the cane will 'be made
use of only for indispensable objects^
or to comply with the old habits^ and
gratify the luxury of a ^ few.

It will follow, that in a ^plentiful
year, sugar will not be necessary in
order to provide against a scanty
reason ; and that, with a slight expence,
the sam% enjoyment will be derived
from the preserved produce of two,
three, and four years, as from a year
of plenty.

^LVI.

120

^Lvr.

a

Chesnuts, Truffles^ Mushroomf^

•

, On taking the chesnuts out of the
Vessel in which they have been pre-
served^ I plunge them in cold water,
sprinkle them with a little fine salt^ and
roast them in a pan over a quick fire.
In this manner they are excellent*
The moistening them and the put-
ting salt upon them may be dispensed

4

with^ but they must always be roasted
over a quick fire.

I make the same use of preserved
trufiles and mushrooms, as of those
recently gather^.

^ LVII.

121

§ LVII.

Grape Juice, or Must.

When I made my first experiments
of preserving grape juice in its fresh
state, I was unacquainted with Mr*
Parmentier's " Information concerning
the means of farmshmg a substitute
for sugar, in the principal uses made of
it in medicine and domestic economy.^ *^
It is this valuable information which
supplied m^ with the means, of avail-
ing myself of fresh experiments, and
making use of two hundred bottles of
grape-juice preserved by me six months
before.

1st. I made very good grape syrup,
following the process of Mr. Parmentier,
which is literally as follows.

G Preparation

* " Vinstruction sur Us moyens de suppU'er le mere
dans lis principaux usages qu'on en fait pour la mMecine
et tVconomis domestique f par M. Parmintisr.'*

122

Preparatum of Grape Sh/rup.

^^ You take twenty-four [French]
pintm>f grape juice and put one half
of it in a boiler placed on the fire^ widbt
the precaution of not suflfering it to
boil with too much force. You add
fresh juice as that in the boiler evapo-
rates ; you skim it and stir the tmrfecej^
to add to the evaporation* When Ihet
whole of the juice has been put into
the boiler, you skim it, you take the
boiler oflf the fire, and add some lye^
ashes tied up in a cloth, or. whiting
(blanc dEsp&gn^, Spanish, or Troy-
white), or chalk reduced to a powd^^.
and first diluted in a little grape juice,
until it no longer eflfervesces, or, as
it were, boils in the liquor which was
shaken.

" By these mean3> the acid contaiq-
ed in the grape, is separated and neu«-

tralized.

123

tralized. In order to try the liquor,
put blue paper into it, and when it does
nof turn red, then you may be satisfied
that the liquor is no longer acid. Re^
place the boiler on the fire, affer having
let it settle an instant, and put in two
whites of beaten eggs. Strain the
liquor through a woollen cloth, fixed
on a wooden frame of twelve or fifteen
square inches, so that it occupies little
room ; then boil again, and continue the
evaporation.

** In order to "thow whether the
syrup be sufficiently condensed, let
some drop from a spoon upon a plate i
if the drop falls without spirting or
spreading, or if when divided, the
halves run into each other again but
slowly, then you may infer that it has
acquired the proper consistency,

G 3 ^^ Pour

124

" Pour it into an earthen vessd which
is not varnished ; and when completely
Gold^ transfer it to vessels of a moderate
size^ neat, dry, and well corked ; and
place it in^ the cellar. A bottle once
opened, sliould not remain long only
half filled ; and when you marke use of
it, take care to hold the neck down-
wards.

^^ It is hardly possible to determine
precisely, the quantity of chalk or
ashes necessary to be used.^ Less is
required in the South than in the
North, but at all events, more than is
necessary will do no harm, since it
remains upo n the straining cloth
with the other insoluble salts and
the skim.

* *

** If in order to preserve these
syrups for a longer time, you were to

carry

125

carty on the boiling too long, you
would find yourself mistaken ; for the
syrup would not fail to chrystalize at
the bottom of the vessel^ while the
body would become thin : on the other
hand^ if the syrup were not sufficiently
evaporated^, it would soon ferment. A
houdek^per who has made these syrups
twice, will have learnt the degree of
boiling which ought to be given to the
syrup, better than can be taught her by
rule."

Syrups and Ratqfies.

With this same syrup, I have prepar-
ed preserves, confectionary, syrups and
beverages, as well as liquors and ra-
tafies of all the kinds of fruit I have
spoken of.

2d. I made syrup of the same
grape juice and by the same process,

G 3 except

126

except that I boiled the latter but
slightly^ that is^ one quarter less than
the former ; as I wished to satisfy my-
self whether it would be preserved by
the application of beat to the water-
bath^ in the way before pointed out*
Having prepared my syrup, I put it^
when cold^ into three half bottles ;
one full, and the other a quarter
empty. I corked and sealed the bottles^
and let them reipain in the water-
bath only till it boiled, &c. I re-
marked no difference in the full and
half full bottles, and all three .were
completely preserved*

3d. I took six pints of preseived
.grape juice, to which I addled two pmte
of good old proof brandy, aiitd also
two pounds of grape syrup, which I had
prepared. This preparMion whicii I
mixed wcll^ I made use of to tx>mpo9e

four

127

four kinds of liqueur^ by means of
infusions of 'apricot-kernels^, mint^
orange flower^ badian^ which I had
prepared before : these liqueurs having
been well strained^ were found very
good^ and sufficiently sweet.

4th. I took two bottles of preserved
grape juice^ which I poured into two
other fit bottles. I corked and tied
these bottles^ and left them standing
upright ten days. During this inter-
val, the liquor caused its cork to burst,
like the best Champagne wine, and
mantled in the same way.

5th. I repeated this last experiment
.in the same manner. At the end of
twelve or fifteen days, observing no
appearance of fermentation in the bot-
tles, i uncorked them in order to let
in die air, and I then put into them a

G 4 table

128

table spoonful of preserved raspberry
juice. 'Having re-corked and sealed
them, I let them remain eight dayi
longer upright. At the end of that
time, both the white and the red juice
(le hlanc et le ros^Jy caused the cork to
spring out. They mantled completely,
and were very agreeable to the taste,
particularly the red, perfumed wilh
raspberry.

After these experiments made of the
Massy grape [in the department of
Seine and Oise]y it is more than pro-
bable that in the fine vineyards of the
South, infinitely more precious results
will be drawn from the making use of
this method. Grape juice will be pre-
served there, in order, by congelation,
to reduce it at will, to the consistence
of syrup, after having taken away its
acid for the sweet syrup ; or if the

juice

129

juice be condensed over the fire, the
quantity of boiling made use of for
condensing the syrup, will, by the
operation of heat in the water-bath in
any preparatory process, be rendered
immaterial for the preservation of the
syrup for several years.*

By means of this process, which is^
easy to be put in practice, and of little
expence in the execution, syrups may
be obtained clear and white (even when
produced from black grapes), and of
a pure sweetness, free from a certain
flavour of molasses and burnt sugar,
from which it has not hitherto

c 5 been

• The original is more precise, and refers to an instra-
ment made use of in France for ascertaining the density
of liquors, an Araeometer, which, at least in its appli^
catioa to grape syrupi is unknown in this country; the
words are, ** Us dcgris d$ cuisson de 25) 30, ou 33 ^
Variomiire^ devieni indiffhent pour coTiservfr ces sirups y*

ere. r. .

130

been found possible to exempt grape
syrup when boiled in the ordinary
mode sufficient for its preservation.

Ihus this precious production^ pre*
served in bottles and vessels of every
size may be transported to a great dis«*
tanceand in all seasons, coming from
Bergerac, M^ze, and all the manu&c-
tories of the South, to improve the
produce of our small vineyards^ and
make all classes of society share in the
enjoyment of this useful resource.

§ LVIIL

General Ohservations.

From this detail of experiments, it is
obvious that this new method of pre-
serving animal and vegetable substatK^e,
proceeds from the simple principle of

applyiJ^

131

applying heat in a due degree to the
sereral subfstances, after having de-
prived them as much as possible of all
contact with the external air.

It might on the first view of the
subject be thought that a substance
either raw or previously acted upon by
HtBy and afterwards put into bottles^
might if a vacuum were m9de in those
txottles, and they were completely cork-
ed, be preserved equally well with the
application of heat in the water-bath*
This would be an error, for all the trials
I have made have convinced me that
the absolute privation of the contact of
external air -(the intemal air being
rendered of no effect by the action of
heat), and the application of heat by
means of the water-bath, are both in-
dispensable to the complete preservation
of alimentary substances* -

c 6 My

133

My object is not like that of the
Bourdeaux cbymists^ to disunite the
component parts of the animal sub-
stance^ and obtain, the animal jelly in a
separate state^ as well as the animal
fibre, free from its juice and so made
to resemble tanned leather* Neither is
it my endeavour to furnish at a great
expence, as in the preparation of .port-
able soup, a tenacious paste or glne,
better adapted to derange the stomach
than to provide it with a salutary
nourishment.

My problem is, to preserve all nu-
tritive substances with all their peculiar
and constituent qualities. My experi-
ments prove that I have resolved this

problem.*

It

* Some pefsons of enlightened understandings, but
irho hiTCj perhaps, dcUvcrcd themsclfcs oyer to the spirit

of

133

It is to the solution of this problem
that I have devoted my fortune and

twenty

of system' aod prujudicet hare declared themselves against

my method, alleging a pretended impossibility. But is

it then difficult on the principles of a sound, namral

philosophy, to assign a reason for the preservation of

alimentary substance by my process ? May we not infer,

that the application of caloric, or heat, to the water-bath,

operates in producing a gentle fusion of the constituedt

fermenting principles, so as to destroy the, predominating

agency of fermentation ? This agency is an essential con-

t]ition of ' fermentation, at least of its taking place with

ai certahi promptitude* Further, there, is nd fermontiUloB

without air ; this being also excluded by my method,

we have two assignable causes for its success ; > the theory

of which appears to flow naturally from the means

practically employed.

Indeed if we refer to any of the methods made us^ of,
and any of the experiments and observations of aneient
and modem times, upon the preservation of alimentai^
substances with which we are acquainted,w« shall find that
Jtre is every where the principal agent, either in the natural
duration, or in the artificial preservation of vegetable
and animal substances.

Falroni has proved that heat applied to grape juice or
must, destroys the fermentation of this vegeto-aiiimal,

whidh

Hi

twenty y^tB X>{ labour and meditation*
Happy that I have already been able
to render service to my fellow citizens
and humanity, I rely on the justice, ge-
nerosity and intelligence of a wise go-
vernment^ which never fails to en-
courage useful discoveries. That go*
vernment will perceive that the inventor
of this method of preservation could
not obtain from the invention itself an
indemnification for his labour and ex-
•pence. The chief importance of this
process, lies in its subservience to the

wants

which 18 pre-eminently Uaven* Thenard has made like
,%Kperiateiiti Om clicrrieii gooseberries and ^ther frtits*
The eK|Mrimenisof the late FHarit and of Mr. Ckastal^
Ismied diymisCB at Bowdeaiiz^ who have dned meat hf
meant of stafv«s> equally prove that the applicaoon •£
beat detfroys iht «gents of pntiefaction. ^

Drying, boiling, evaporating^ as ^ell as the caustic «nd
savoary substances which are employed in the preservation
of alknentaiy ,prodactionS| all serve to shew that caloric ia<
iu various modes of application, produces the nme
effects*

135

wants of civil and militaiy hospitals^
and particularly of the Navy* It is in
these departments of the public service
that my process may be employed in a
manner advantageous to the state^ and
it is from them that I may receive the
just reward of my labours. I expect
every thing from the beneficent views
of the minister^ and my expectations
will not be disappointed.

^ LIX^

Practical Remarks.

The botdes and other vc^sdi of ev^ry
kind fit for the preservation of alinleiir
taiy substances will oocasion^ but a verf
slight ezpenoe at one time. They may
be always used again> . if csrre be taken to
rince them as soon as they stre ^emply ;
good corkSj string and wire am not eae-

pensive*

136

pensive. As soon as the method iS
known^ proper bottles and jars will be
met with at the manufacturers, cork* of
every size and properly prepared for use
will be furnished by the cork cutters, as
well as iron-wire fit for use.

It will be always adviseable <o pro-
cure corks before bottles, and in that
case no other bottles need be purchased
than such as may have necks suited to
the size of the corks, for I have been
often, unable to procure corks of such
a size as I could wish.

The glass-houses of /o G^irire, S&i)es,
and. des\ Prdmontrds near Courcj/Tle-
iJhdtedu, ' are alneadyaccuatoflhied to the
manufactdry of corks and jars necessaiy
for the preserving process. I am most
satisfied with the latter, which has
served me for the last fojir years.

Good

137

• Good corking depends only on a little
practice. It will suffice to cork a dozen
bottles with care and ^cactness^ in
order to familiarize a person with the
method. Everyday, wine and liquors
are bottled and transported by land and
water to the remotest places. Even
glass vessels containing from forty to
eighty litres in measure have been «ent
to a CTeat distance full of oil of vitriol
and other liquids. It will be the same-
with animal and vegetable productions,
preserved in glass bottles or jars, when
sufficient care and attention shall be
given them» This is the principal
thing required. How many rich li^
quors and other substances would be
better preserved which are either lost or
spoiled fot want of being well corked I *

No one will doubt, after all tl^e ex*
periments I have detailed, that the

adoption

138

adoption of this new method^ whicb^
as may be se^n^ unites the ^eatest
^Qonomy to a perfection unlooked for
till the present tioie^ will seoire the
Allowing ach^ntages.

}. That of considerably dimini^^
ing the consomption of sugar^ the pro-*
dtice tyf the caae> and of giving the
greatest extenaioa to the aianitfactoriea
of grape syrup.

2. That of pi^seiviog for <ise in all
countries and all seasons, a number of
alimentary and medicinal prodactionSjc
which being very abundant in sottie
places at certain seasons^ are therefore
wasted^ bdng considered a$ of no value ;
while the same suhst^moes undfer other
circumstances^ being much wanted be-
come fit double and ^ven four-fold value;
and flkHnetimes cannot be .procured at
9ny prioe^ such as butter and eggs.

139

3. Th4tof proouni^ for civil and
military hospitals^ and even for the
armies the most valuable assistance^
the details of which would be stiper** , ^

fluous here. But the great advants^
oS this method consists prind|>ally in
its application to the service of the
Navy. It will supply fresh and wholes
some provisions for his majesty's vessels
on lof^ voyages with a savii^ of more
than fifty per cent. Mariners will in
case oi illness be furnished with broths
various and cooKng beverages^ vege»
tables and fruits ; in a word^ they wiU
be able to partake of a number of
alimentary and medicinal substannes^
which will alone be sufficient to pre-
vent or cure the diseases contracted at
Sea^ more especially the worst of them
all^ the scurvy. Xfiese advantages
eminently merit the public attention
when we reflect that salted pnoviinon^

and

140

and, above all, their bad qualities have
caused the loss of more lives .at Sea
than shipwrecks and naval engage-
ments*

»

4. Medicine will find in this me-
thod the means of relieving humanity,
by the facility of ineeting every where
and in all seasons animal substances,
and all kinds of vegetables, . as well as
their juices, preserved with all their
natural qualities and virtues : by the
same means it will obtain- resources in-
finitely precious in the production of
distant regions, preserved in their fi-esh
state.

5. From this method will arise a
new branch of industry relative to the
productions of I^rancc by their circula-
tion through the interior and the ex-
portation abroad of the produce with

which

141

which nature has blessed the di&rent
countries.

6. This^ method will facilitate the
exportation of the wine of many vine-
yards, wine which can scarcely be kept
ay^ar, even when not removed from
the spotj may hereafter be preserved
many years though sent abroad*

Finally, this invention cannot fail to
enlarge the domain of Chymistry, and
become the common benefit of all
countries which will derive the most
precious fruits from it.

So many advantages, and an infinity
jof others which the imagination of the
reader will easily conceive, produced
by one and the same cause; are a source
pf astonishment,

SOCIETY

149

SOCIETY FOR THE ENCOURAGEMENT OF
NATIONAL INDUSTRY.

Paris, "J th Aprils ISOg,

THE SECRETARY OF THE SOCIETP FOR
THE ENCOURAGEMENT OF NATIONAL
INDUSTRY^ TO BTR. AFPERT, FRO-
PRIETOR AT MASSV.

Sir,

I have the pleasure to trans^
ndt to you a copy of the Report mad^
to the Soci^t^ d^Encouragement^ Hy
Messrs. Guyton^Morveau, Parmentier,
and Bouriat, on your preserved vege*
table and animal substances. Nothing
can be added to the judgment passed
by the Committee upon your discovery.
They^ announce, that it has not been in
their power to make any experiments,

either

148

either suffkienify exacts or ttmimiei
fir a sti^fficient length of thne^ to enable
them to i)erify to what extent the sub^
stances prepared hy you may he pre--
served ; hvt what they have themselves

4

observed, suffices to enable them to firm
an opinion to which they were previous^
ly disposed, by the numerous and de^
cisive testimonies which attest your
success.

The Society are of opinion that
they are rendering a service to the
country and humanity^ when they
make known so useful a discovery
with the eulogies which it merits.
Their desire will be ojccompUshed,
should their suffrage determine the
public to make use of your pro^-
ductions, and so contribute to confer
upon you the just rewards of your
labours.

Accept,

144.

Accept, Sir; the aisufatfce of *A«
perfect reject with , which I . hme
the hommr to salute yofu.

MATH. MONIMORENCY,

Secretary^ Sgc.

EXTRACT

145

EXTRACT FROM THE PROCSS-VBRSAL
OF THE SITTING OF THE COUKCIL OF
ADMINISTRATION^ WEDNESDAY^ 15TH
MARCH^ 1809.

Report made hf Mr. Bouriaf, in the
name of a Special XJomjnittee^' on
Vegetable and Ammal Substancee,
preserved hy Mr* Appert*

\ The council referredix) a committee^
coiHasting of Messrs. Guyton-Morveaui
Fbhnentier^ and myself^ the exami*
luytioa of vegetable and animal sub*
stances presented by Mr. Appert^ and
preserved by his process^ for more than
eight moathsi

These substances were^

1« JPoi^u-feu [a standing Frencb
dish of boiled meat^ jbwb^ &c.]. i

a 3. Consommiy

146

S. Conxmmi, gravy.
' 3. Milk. : : ^

4. Whey.

5. Green Peas.

6. Small Windsor Beans.

7. Cherries.

8. Apricots.

9* Currant Juice.
10. Raspberries*

£ach of tlicse articles was contained
in an earthen vessel hermetically seal^
ed, the coik being fsistened with m)n
wioe and pitched. Proceeding meliho^
drcally in our enquiry^ v^

We found in the poUau-Jhu a jelly
tolerably rich, with a piece of beef and
two pieces of fowl in the middle.
"Warming the whole with care, to a
suitable degree;^ the soup wtei found
good, and the meat which was ^epa^

rated

i4ir

tttdd firom it, veiy tender, «nd of «t'
agreeable flkvidur.

The aons&mmd appeared to us to bar*
eSLcellent; and though prepared M^
teen months before, there was scarcely
any discemablc^ diifer^nce between tta
then state, and what it would have been^
2r made fresh the same day. '

The milk was Ibund to be of a yellow*
ish colour, resembling that of colostrum
or beestings^ more ^ick, as well aa
sweeter and more savoury than the or-
dinary milk : a superiority it derives
from the concentration it has under-
gone. It may be affirmed that milk of
this kind, though prepared nine monthii
before, may supply the place of th0
greater part of the cream sold at Paris.
What however will appear more extras
ordinary is, that this same milk having

H 9 been

bMii {Hit into ft piat bottle wtnch w«f^
tinoorkod amoath before^ tp tal^^Hi;^
m part of it^ aad re-corked afterwards
with little care^ was also .pjesenredi
having midergoae scarcely aay chai^*,
M&oft it appeared to . bave sQiaewhat
llild^eaed^ bat a slight shakia|^ was.
^affieieat to l»rii^ back its ordiaary U-
^aidity. I ju^eseat it h^Sre ia the ^smf
bottle^ that you may coaviace your-
selves ij£ a fact^ whicli I. sbouki have
bad a difficulty to believe^ if I had
beard of it oaly^ without havii^ the
evidence before uae.

^ -

The whey which we afterviwds tsfi*
&mined^ preseated soiae siagubr ap-^
pearaaees aot les^ astoaishiag. Itrhad
all Ihe traasparency of wfaey.recoxtljr
prepared. Its colour was deeper, it
bad a stroager taste> and it was sonae-^
wb^t tbidiierf It uaderweat a chaise

also

k.

k

^t49

ilso with less npidtty^ lu^vin^ "betii^^
]posed to the air at the end of a foit^r
flight; for a bottle opened nx Wfxk%
ago^ occasionally shaken^ and iIUcorked>
did not begin to lose its tranaparene^
till the end of a fortnight. Its swfisiQt
at the end of more than a month
^as covered widx a sdmewluit thiek
mouldiness^ which when carefally tak^
oSs left the remainder tstill jkwsessiii^

the flavour of wbey,

» - .\ • - ...

: The gre0i$. peas md the Wmdsor
ieanSf boiled with the attention en-
joined by Mr. Appert^ furnished two
€3iddkiiit 4ishes» wbidi dip remoteness
.pf the fisiual season of such vq;etables
appeared to render still more finely
^llayoiired ^nd agreeable.

, Whole cherries and apricots cut in
quarters preserved ^ great part of tlie

K 3 flavour

^1^

^

1*>

flftvour thqr had vfh^n ffAeteA: It it
true Mr. Appert wa« obliged to gather
them befc^re they wcare quite ripe^ les^
they «hoi|Id Joae too much of their
figme in the glass jars in which they
trcte preserved.

* '^ f

: The emrmt and taqfberry Jmce ap-
peaiiedto us to enjoy almost all their
i|iuditief. We found the aroma of the
raspberry perfectly piesenred^ as weU
IS the somewhat aromatie acid of the
currant. Their colour only iifas a little

&ded.

*

Such werethe results enourexamining
the substances prepared accordingtoMi*.
Appert^s process^ more than eight month^^
and some of them a y^ar^ and fifteen
months before ; for imtance^ the whey.
We could only receive his statement as
to the time of the previous prepara-

' '* tion

151

ttoh of these articles^ as they Iiad been
deposited but two months with the
Society ; but even this shorter period
IS sufficient to give us a favourable
opinion of the author*s process. We
are the more justified in relying on
Mr. Apperf s declarations, as persons
highly worthy of credit, have by theit
own experiments, convinced themselves
that similar substances may be pre^
served for more than a yeair, Mr.
'Appert forwarded to the Council mere
specimens of the articles I have enu-
merated ; but he prepares a still greatet
variety of alimentary substances. He
did not communicate his process to us«

The art of better preserving vege-
tables and animal substances in tli^
state in which nature jMroduces theni,
has been to a considerable degree the

H 4 object

\

152

cil^eet t>otb of fSMtmucy and drfmistiy*

To attain that end various mfaiis hav^

been employed* Desiccation, ardent

/spirits, acids and oils, sacdbarine and

Mline substances, &c. have been made

use of; but jt must be confessed that

^faese means cause many productions

Jto lose a part of their properties, or

otherwise modHGtes them, so that tbeis:

jwoma and ^mmr are no kmger to be

recognized, . From this point of yiew^

.the process of Mr. Appert appears tp

ua preferable, if without having r^

jcourse to desiccation be ad<ls no ex^

.^r^neous substance to that he wishes tf>

preserve. There is every reason to

believe that his method is by so much

the b^ter, ^s die substances on which

^he operates ar^moreoipablepf sustain-*

< ing 4K> high a temperature without a

sensible change. .

., . ..• ..Seycfid

153

persons of aidbiowledgtct
merit, have by desbe of liie pfefecl»
id diffireiit Seaports^ examined Mr*
Appert*s preparations. It is onljrne^
cessary to read the reports made by
these well informed p^rsons^ in order
to be convinced of tiie exeellence of
the atilhor's process.

At Bteit, for instance^ mi iJbe: 14tll
Of April 1807> the committee nam^
by ihe Maritime Bri^ct express them^
' selTCs as follows :

'^ It is demonstrated by every tldiig jus t
said^ that all the alhaaentary sub«taae«8«.
in number eighteen^ embarked in the
i9to<u>9inatre, December 1 2^ Ifil^/and
tKsembarked April 13^ J8&7^ and
which were examined by li CBmniiijilee
for that especial purpose^ under the
|mi|iidend)r iif a commissiiy ofmaiine
. . \: H 5 belonging

U4

t^ot^iig to the ho8pitek> underwent
iiochei^ while tbey t'vere on board,
and -that they were in the same statper
at th^ several periods of the embarka-i
tton and 4iiembarkatii>n.

'^ It maybe added that Mr. Appert*a
process fof the preaenration of the
articles examined^ has been followed by
all the sneeess he had promised hUm*
self; and that with improvement) which
ha eonsiders as r&ry eafly> and finding
means to diminish the number of ves<»
sels employed^ these provisions would
oflfer great advantages on board his ma^
jesty's and other veas^/*

'f - *

The Con^mittee nominated at Boor*
fleanx by the Pi^feetof the Deports
mmt, assert poflitlvdy i

^ Jtyt jdetaii «rhKh we have px^

given,

given^ on the objecU prefmrixl by Mr.
Appert^ vrill point out to you that they
vfere in a state of perfect preservation ;
that the means made use of do not de-
pend on the addition of extraneous
substances^ and that these means are
founded on a process invented or im-*
proved by Mr. App^rt^ which do not^
destroy the perfume or flavour of tlMl^
subjects submitted to t^r influence."

Rear-Admiral Aliemand wrote a let-
ter to Mr. Appert> of which I subjoin a
copy.

'^^ I communicated your letter. Sir,
to the Captains^ under my orders^ and
they tasted the day before yesterday
the vegetables I purchased of yon
fourteen months ago, one bottle df
which my maitre^^Mtel had by ae--
ctdent 1^ in the store-room. As green

» 6 . peas

196:

^^and beuie avejittt begittnii^ to be,
gathered^ the ofiicers actually;- bd^ved
yo«r preflm^rod vegetaWef tobefresbi^.
sowdl had yiou sttoeeeded ; they wish:
tc^ pui^ase a large 5]uaii|ity of thea%
a»< well as soup^ iruitj and meat in bot^
tl(^.« . I shaU also take a considerablf^
^»j|ntity for myself at the end of th^

season.

. jf

- , J,

^' I am so well persuaded^ Sir^ oi
the infinite advantage which would at-*
^nd the providing a quantity of articles
for the use of the sick on boardj^ thaf
if his Excellency the Minister of the
l^ariae aiid Colonies* should do mo the
lionaur t4> ask f^rmy opinion^ I, shall
^ot he»tate to oonfirm this my opii^ioiv
jas,weU for the sake pf the gme^nysnt
;and of the iiick^ as €^ yoiu:s^lf., I sba)^
take the earliest opportunity to ;8peak
with him on the subject. .Accept th^
: assurance of my h%h consideration.

'' On

\

I 157

^ ^ Oo board the Im perial Ship te Ma^
jesHteu^ at anchor off the lie dAix^

(Sigaed) ^^ Ausmamp/'
^' 7th March^ I807.'*

Copy of a Letter of Vice^Admired
' Martin, Maritime Prefect, to Mr^
" Appert, at Brest.

' *^ I have received, ' Sir, your letter oi
the 27th of last April. According to
your desire, I have addressed to his
excellency the Minister of the Marine
and Colonies a report of the examination
of a variety of provisions prepared ac-
cording to your process.

• * < «

• ^^ I shall ne^ect no opportunity of
-making known a dkco^e^- whiob ap-
fpears to be as ttsefiii to the State as it i^
-interesting to seamen* 1 have the ho*

nour to salute you« ; -;

- '^ The vice-admiral, itiaritime^pr^^t,

* ' (Signed) « Martin.''
^\ Rochefort, 22dMay, 1807;*

158

It is apparent frtHxi these r^orte^
which appear to be almost the same^,
though made in towns remote from
each oti^r^ at difierent periods and by
diflferent persons^ that th& process <^
Mr. Appert is. as certidn as it is useful.
It affixrds the meansof enjoyingthrough-
out the empire^ during the whole y^r,
and with great convenience^ the pro-
ductions whidi belong alone to a part
of itj without fearing that they may
have undergone any change by their
having been transported to a great dis-
tance^ or from the remoteness of the
season of their growth. Merely under
Ais point <0f view^ the ndvantage ap-
*]iears to be great ; and it has not ea-
ecqped the notiee of the poete and
amiable writers^ wfao^ to amuse them-
selves, sing the artof cookoy^ Mr.
Appert has rqpeat^ly received from
.. them

,*s

159

tiieim the most flattering and highly de«
served praises.*

«

The process of this mamifactorer is
not less valuable in die sparing of sugar
in the use of fruit ; for without the aid
of that article, it preserves the juice
till the moment of its consumption,
when only a small porti'oa needs to be
added to the juice ; double the quantity
would have been necessary to preserv€

th«

* These poetes et litUrateurs aimahlet qui chantent pour
t*amuser, are M. de BerchouXf author of the charming
poem ta OmsironMnie, and the aiitbon of the 4li>t^na¥
4m Chu/mofads^ ao annual publication written with in-
finite wit and hnmour* and which enjojrt a higher repu-
tation and more ezten«i?e popularity than any other wbdk
<if taite pubKshed In France since the t«Tolation. For an
accouQt of both these productions^ the reader is referred to
the LiTsaARY Panorama, Vol. Vll. pp. 661 and 719*
The Almanac of Glnttans, if It be not the ttanrfard oC
poetic (fcnitts in iMperial France, ia at leaat an indication
of the direction which talent is now taking : a direction,
wliich the laws and literary police of the Napoleon gOTCfn^
awDlirilliioiftacfiisctttallytomaintaio. T.

(16D

the same fruit. It may be for Aer addecl
that the flavour and aroma of rabii
stances are better preserved by Mr.
Appert*s process^ thanl>y the decoctions
usually made use of in order to preserve
them with sugar. This will be con-t
sidered as a very great advantage^ when
^e reflect how prodigious a quan-*
tity of this eobnial produce is everf
year employed to preserve the di€er^nt
kinds of fruij: and their juices. The
iestablishment of Mr. Appert has not
perhaps been duly appreciated by rich
capitalists^ who might have given it
that desirable extension which it will
only gradually receive, if the author ft
itbaadoned to his own resources*

: The success he has already met wit\
Iner^ses his zeal and makes him carry
Ihis views furlhei^. He promises to ti^ns^
flut^^ ^nchangedr. the most agreeablf
'^ ♦• i proddctioiis

161

prodttctions of our soil beyond the J^ine^
'He purposes to multiply the enjoyments
of the Indian, the Mexican, and the.
African^ as well as of the Laplander^
fmd to tnyisport into France^ from re-
mote regions^ an infinity of jsubstancdS
Ifhich we should desire to receive in
^their Mttural state*

9

* The experiments already made on
board several vessels, ' prove that the
aicic amotig a cr«w will be well satisfied
with Mr. Appert's preparations, which
furnish them with the means of pro-
curing, when necessary, meat and
broth of a good quality, milk, acid
fruits, and even anti-scorbutic juices;
.for Mr. Appert assures us he is able to
preserve these also.

With respect to the embarkation of
'meat necessary for a whole crew on a

long

• — & w^

162

long Toyage^ a slight diflScnlty seemt
to lie in the requisite mnltipficity^ of
bottles. But Mr. Appert will, ¥Pithont
doubt, find means to obviate this in-
convenience, by the choice of vessels
less fragile and of a larger size.

Our opinion of the substances pre^
served by Mr. Appert, and transmitted
to our examination, is, that they were
all of a good <|uality ; that they may be
made use of without any inconvenience ;
and that the Society owes great praise
to the author for having so far advanced
the art of preserving vegetable and ani*
mal substances. We are happy to ren-
der this homage to the zeal and disin-
terestedness with which he has laboured
to attain his end.

When the relations of commerce

fhdl be rendered more easy, Mr. Ap-

. *

pert

I6S

f&l Will requife notfaixig 1)Qroiid hin
own talents and pers^erance, to est&w
blish a branch of comm^x^e aa useful to
himself as to his country ; but at the
present* moment his fellow citizens can--
not better recompense his labours^ than
by employing the procbee of his manu*
fiictiifes«

JVb^e.— Mr. Appert desires to pre-
serve hii^ connection with the Society,
m order to inform them of the result of
the fresh exertions to which he is about
to devote himself, on the invitation of
your committee.

The council concurring in 6pinion
with its committee, adopts the present
report and its conclusions^ and resolves

that

t6<t

ihat it shall 1^ iasected itx the aainntel
4rf the sqeietf .^

(Signed) GUVTON-MORVEAU,

• . '' . • , . . . • , '

Parmxntier^

BOURIAT.

(A true .copy)
Math. Momtm^rshct^ S^r^ABstyi

•Mia^:.- . fINW.

r "L '■<' 1 !■ i 11 II ' I I 1^ i I i j !■» 1 1

Frittted by Cox, Son, and Baylit. Great QiKen SltCfttf

1

EXPLANATION OF THE PUTB.

^.1. A reel with two iron bars, made use of to doabla
the wire» and cat Ihe doubled wire twice the length
required for fixing thecorki in the bottles.

\g, 9. A small machine for twisting the wire one*
third of its length after having been doubled bjr
fig. 1.

Fig, 3* An instrafkient for oompres^ng (and» at it were^
biting) the corks three quarters of their length, be-
ginning at the smallest end.

Flg»4* A stool stufibd with straWy furnished with a
wooden stand on which the bottles may be placc4
to be tied* The same stool will sem to sit on
daring the corking.

#%. 5« A hollow block of wood, called a bottle-booc
(Casse-Bouteille), within which the bottle is set
when it is to be corked. This botde-boot is fhr*
nished with a strong bat for beating in the corks*

i>lg, 6. A front and side view of pointed |dneers, used
for twisting the wire employed to keep on the
corks, and for cutting off the superfluous ends of
the wire. I make use of flat pincers and scissara
for this operation.

^.

\