THE
ADVENTURES OF A LADY
IN TARTARY, THIBET, CHINA, & KASHMIR;
THROUGH PORTIONS OF TERRITORY NEVER BEFORE VISITED BY EUROPEAN. WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE JOURNEY FROM THE PUNJAB TO BOMBAY OVERLAND, VIA THE FAMOUS CAVES OF AJUNTA AND ELLORA.
4LS0 AN ACCOUNT OF THE MAHABLESHWUR AND NEILGHERRY MOUNTAINS, THE SANATARIA OF THE BOMBAY AND MADRAS PRESIDENCIES.
BY
MES. HERVEY.
IN THREE VOLUMES, VOL IL
LONDON :
HOPE AND CO., 16, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1853.
and 2062.53.20
PREFACE.
HvuMAN motives are human mysteries. Cate- chise oneself as one may, the reasons for an act are for the most part such a mingled yarn as to defy definition and explanation. Why I penned this journal as I travelled, requires a complex ’ reply. I was alone during the greater part of my travels, and writing was companionship; I was impressed with what I saw, and I hoped to be able to recall the impressions in after days; I had oppressions and depressions within, the weight of which was in part escaped by describing things out of myself.
Still more complicated are the reasons for prin- ting what it was pleasure to write, and what, at the time it was written, was never intended to be printed. It would serve no useful purpose to unravel them. Some were, I doubt not, suffi- ciently feeble; feminine caprice may have to do with others; and altogether they are probably more
1V PREFACE.
satisfactory to my mind than they could be made to appear to others, unless those others be travel- lers in the romantic and inspiniting and inspiring regions of the Northern Himalaya, and the snowy Thibetan heights, and have been the first to plant their civilized foot upon the barbarian soil, as I did. Call the feeling what you may, it is a strongly impelling ohe, which is roused during travel in such portions of earth; and few of those even who rejoice in more cool philosophy than is attributed to my sex, can resist the desire to impart to others a faint echo—for that is all that ‘can be effected—of the voice of mighty Nature, as it is uttered from the rugged sides of the great Asiatic range. And this desire grew stronger the longer I found myself again in the every-day mo- notony of well-arranged and well-behaved society. What a train of pleasurable sensations its denizens altogether ignore in their placid existence! And is it not a good office to tell them of scenes which stir the mind up to the altitude of its admiration, such admiration as Nature alone in uncultivated grandeur can inspire? If I shall impart to a few, even, the shadow of my own impressions during these marches, I shall have done what I hold to be good service.
But my jottings down may prove of practical
PREFACE. Vv
as well as sensational utility ; and the future tra- veller will find his way somewhat smoother for my humble itinerary. The distances, the nature of the roads and of the conveyances, may spare the patience of many an impatient traveller, the limbs of many a weary one, the purse of many an economical one.
A knowledge, too, of Kashmir and the lands adjacent, is not without political use in the times which must come with the death of the present ruler, whom British arms placed over it. That we siall be called in to cure the fevered anar- chical state which is sure to follow that event, is certain; and the more that is known of the regions we are to possess, the more firmly we suall be enabled to hold them. Towards the acquirement of such knowledge, these volumes may aid.
Upon the whole, I can conscientiously say that the weakness which 1s laid at the door of women’s motives, vain-glory, has as little to do with the publication of these marches as it is possible for. poor human nature to divest itself of. Besides, in all sincerity, I have not that reliance upon my own power of telling my tale that can render it certain to myself,—very much the other way,— that vanity would be gratified either by the num-
[r
v1 PREFACE.
ber of editions, or by the criticismsof them. The world will take it for what it is worth, and no more. I shall not tear my hair if my daily notes live but a day.
One thing I must lay stress upon. Every one of the things and places described, I saw with my own eyes; every observation is my own. Before visiting the lands of these travels, I had read no work concerning them, save that of Baron Hiigel, and that five years before my first year’s expedi- tion; whilst in my second year I had only Moor- croft’s work in my possession, which, however, does not include’ all the ground over which I tra- velled. So that for these pages, and all their imperfections, I alone am responsible.
———
eta
—
ee + SL NT a ap et
ERRATA OF VOL, I.
Page 7, line eleven, for “in” read “on.”
Page 20, the notes at the foot of this page are transposed. Page 32, line eighteen, for “ plantain ’’ read “ plaintain.” Page 41, line nineteen, for “ grawacke’’ read “ grauwacke.” Page 56, line four, for “ patriness ’’ read “ paltriness.”
Page 157, line sixteen, the final “e ’’ omitted in “ simple.” Page 290, line seventeen, for “did ” read “ does.”
Page 260, the index, “f” omitted before last note.
Page 288, line two, for “ feld-spar ’”’ read “ felspar.”
Page 3839, line fifth from foot, for “two ’’ read “ten.” Page 402, line second, for “ non est inventus’’ read ‘non invent.”
voL. I.
“Tl publish right or wrong !”
‘‘Oh! nature’s noblest gift—my grey goose-quill ! Slave of my thoughts, obedient to my will, Torn from thy parent bird to form a pen,
That mighty instrument of little men! The pen! foredoom’d to aid the mental throes, Of brains that labour, big with verse or prose.
What wits! what poets dost thou daily raise! How frequent is thy use, how small thy praise! Condemned at length to be forgotten quite, With all the pages which ’t was thine to write. But thou at least, mine own especial pen ! Now laid aside, to be resumed again,
My task complete, like Hamet’s, shall be free ; Though spurn’d by others, yet beloved by me !”
INTRODUCTION.
As the following journal relates to my travels in countries little known to the majority of general readers, I think it necessary to enter into some explanatory detail by way of introduc- tion. Even among those who have visited India, comparatively few have deviated from the beaten track. The greater number have passed their lives in the monotonous ezchange, if I may be per- mitted the expression, of one cantonment or station for another. Such have been content to vegetate in luxurious idleness, and have neither
BZ
4 INTRODUCTION.
had nor sought opportunities of penetrating into the interior of the country. Even to these—then how much more to my English readers—some explanation is needful regarding the meaning of the terms which unavoidably occur in the journal, and of “‘ y° manners and customs” of the East ; also, of the peculiar modes of Eastern travelling, so widely different from anything known or prac- tised in more civilised lands.
In India there are no railways ; and, (with the single exception of the “Grand Trunk Road,’”) no turnpike reads, nor stage coaches; no posters ; no conveniences for travelling.
The “palanquin,” or ‘“‘palky,” is the general conveyance for invalids, nervous ladies, and small children. The discomforts and annoyances attendant on this mode of transit, are incalculable, while the expenses are manifold. Moreover, even this conveyance is not available on the hills, where the roads are too narrow to admit of any- thing so bulky, except in the travelled districts immediately adjacent to our Hill Sanataria, such as Simla, Landoiir, Almorah, Nynee Tal, or Darjeeling. In many of the wilder districts of the Himalayan mountains, the Aborigines, being semi-savages, do not understand how to carry the smallest vehicle on their shoulders, which makes
INTRODUCTION. 5
it imperative for one’s.own safety, to abandon: all idea of such luxuries.
The only other alternative is riding, and this was my invariable mode of travelling, though I always took with me, by way: of precaution in case of sickness or accident, a small dhoolie, which is a more primitive kind of palanquin, very much smaller, lighter, and more portable. As far as the roads permitted, I took with me my gallant Arab steeds, so long my faithful companions, and when obliged to send them back to the plains (owing to their being totally unfit for work in the rugged mountain paths of the Interior), I rode instead, the sturdy ponies which are the natives of those hill regions. In the most snowy and pre- cipitous mountains, where even these are con- sidered unsafe, 1f mounted, I was obliged to ride the oxen of the country, (called “ Yaks,”) while my ponies were formed into herds, and driven like sheep under the charge of one or two hill-men.
The ‘ Yaks” are very unlike any oxen we see in any other part of the werld. They are bred at an elevation varying from twelve thousand to eighteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, and they never zhrive at less elevated spots, though they have been known to exist as low down as ten thousand feet.
6 INTRODUCTION.
These animals are shaggy, and their long hair, which reaches to the ground, covers them like a mantle from head to foot. They are wonder- fully sure-footed and easy, but slow in their pace. They revel in snow, and delight in rolling in it, whether encumbered with riders or not!
Where the word “ march” occurs in my jour- nal, I allude to the distance usually put down as a “march” for troops—varying from eight to sixteen miles, and regulated by the size of the available encamping-ground, the conveniences offered by the neighbouring villages, and the amount of shade afforded by the “topes” (or groves of trees).
After passing Hoshyarpore I have put the dis- tances in “ cosses” as well as “ miles,” as Hosh- yarpore 1s the last cantonment for our troops (with the exception of Kangra) in that direction. The ‘“‘perambulator” not having been employed in these parts, and the natives being our only autho- rity, the distances are more uncertain. The native term ‘“‘coss’”’ is the only one approximating to our “mile.” It is, however, an indefinite and - uncertain distance, varying from one mile to four, according to the phraseology of the districts tra- versed. The fill-coss is, however, usually from a
INTRODUCTION. 7
mile to a mile and a half. A person accustomed to ride or walk, is soon able to decide the length of the ‘coss,” but of course, absolute accu- racy cannot be vouched for. I mention this, as my distances may hereafter be called in question.
In the lofty regions of eternal snow, few tra- vellers find themselves able to walk any distance, owing to the rarity of the atmosphere. The action of the heart becomes accelerated in the most pain- ful manner, and in the Passes a fearful and peculiar sickness often attacks the traveller, prostrating every energy. This will be more fully described in the journal itself, so I need not enlarge upon it here.
As the words “plains” and “hills” will fre- quently occur in the course of this journal, I may as well explain here that these are terms in common use amongst Anglo-Indians; the former signifying the entire country, with the exception of the lofty ranges of the Himalaya and the Western and Eastern Ghats, familiarly called “the hills,” in contra-distinction to the low country.
With respect to many familiar Indian words which I have found it convenient to employ, I have thought it best to explain their meaning in the notes at the foot of the pages where they
8 INTRODUCTION.
occur, that is, as far as they are translatable. Before concluding these introductory remarks, I must not omit to mention that the “ Travels” described in the following pages were not under- taken with the view of future publication. I feel aware how many errors and imperfections may have been originated by this simple fact.
Under the pressure of severe domestic affliction, which was paralysing every energy of mind and body, I formed the project of visiting these almost unknown countries. I found no means so effica- cious in enabling me to escape from ‘ the demon thought,” as the constant change of scene in tra- velling, and the fascinating excitement inseparable from wanderings in wild and unexplored regions —lands where
—— ‘things that own not man’s dominion dwell,
And mortal foot hath ne’er or rarely been.”
I had solitude without its weariness, and in the wilds of the snowy Himalayas I almost forgot the world I had left, and the memory of many bitter sorrows and trials was softened if not banished. To me then, this journal, while it is the record of many pleasant hours passed, and many glorious scenes visited, further proved a solace and a source of amusement on my ‘solitary way,”
INTRODUCTION. 9
beguiling many a weary hour. Nor can I, even at this distance of time, glance over its pages without a grateful recollection of the relief expe- rienced by a harassed mind in the occupation it afforded, and in the exploration of the interesting countries it describes.
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ADVENTURES OF A LADY,
IN
TARTARY, THIBET, CHINA, &.
ad
SEHARUNPORE. (Manicx Mow).
2nd March, 1850. Sunday.—How desolate everything appears on the eve of departure. The dismantled appearance of the house is quite enough to impart a severe attack of vapours to most people. I am happy to say, however, I seldom indulge in such weaknesses; I feel my spirits little under the influence of either bad weather or deserted houses. Besides, I have something to look forward to in my projected wanderings. I hope to visit far distant countries: Kashmir and Ladak are worth some trouble to reach. I mean to keep my intended trip a pro- found secret, for fear of importunate remon- strances from over-anxious friends. Vive P'rdée!
To-morrow I leave Seharunpore. I declare the heat is already beginning to be oppressive in these dreary “plains.” How thankful I ought to be that I am not tied to them like the galley-
12 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
slaves around me. Selon mon avis, tl n’y @ pas d’esclavage plus rigoureux que le service milstatre / W. left Seharunpore this morning, so I have nothing to keep me here now.
JUGADRIE. (Dax Buneatow.) Two marches—Distance, twenty-s1z miles.
March 3rd, 1850. Monday.—I arrived here to breakfast, but finding the Dak Bungalow full, I was riding away, when one of its occupants, Mrs. G—, sent me acivil message to come into her half of the Bungalow. We breakfasted and dined together, after which she went away ddk.* She seems a nice merry little lady.
My camp has gone on to Molanuh, where I breakfast to-morrow. I was nearly drowned in crossing the Jumna, which I passed about four miles from this. The late heavy rain carried away the bridge of boats about ten days ago, and it has not since been repaired. There were sticks
* «« Dak” signifies ‘‘ post.”” It is generally used in reference to palanquin travelling, when the bearers are ordered before- hand and wait on the road, to relieve each set every eight or ten miles. The expressions “ horse-dak,” or “‘ carriage-dak,” &c., are also used, and imply relays of horses on the road.
MOLANUH. ‘13
to mark the ford, but little knowing the depth of the water, I verged perhaps a yard to the right, and was carried down by the force of the stream a considerable distance. ‘‘ Rival’? swam bravely, but the gallant steed could not stem the current, so that we were in imminent danger of meeting a watery grave, from which we were only rescued by the courage of a Syce,* and some ferrymen, who struck out to ouraid. Of course I was drenched, and my poor saddle ditto.
This is two marches (twenty-four miles) from Sehérunpore. The intervening march is Chilkéna, fourteen miles from this. The road is heavy, though broad and well marked. There is a large and thriving mart at Jugadrie, a mile beyond this Dak Bungalow. I crossed the canal by a puckhat bridge not far from Seharunpore.
MOLANUH. Distance, seventeen and a half miles. Two marches.
March 4th, 1850. Tuesday.—Breakfasted here, Heavy, sandy road, and two rivers to be forded ; viz.. the ‘‘Markunda” and the ‘“Sursuttee.” This is a double march, Mustaphabéd being the intermediate one, eight miles from this. aes uninteresting ; a dead level.
* “Syce,” (proper orthography, Swuhaés,) is a groom. ¢ Stone-built.
14 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
UMBALLA. (Cantonsmnts).
Distance, sixteen miles.
Oth March, 1850. Wednesday.— Encamped in the middle of cantonments; in a bare open plain. There is a very good dék Bungalow* here, but I preferred my tents. The road is as sandy as ever. There is a village called Khoodah, which some people make an intervening march. It is about six miles from Umbilla. The city is some
* A Dak-Bungalow is literally a posting-house; a domicile for travellers of all kinds. These Bungalows are built by Government, and their servants have a pre-right of occupation to any other gentry. The usual allowance of rooms are, two bed-rooms, two sitting-rooms, and two bathing-rooms, with some rude and scanty furniture in each. A cook and chokeyddr (watchman) are always kept on the premises to attend on travellers, and procure such supplies as they require. In the larger stations, a Bhishtee (or water-carrier), a Serdar Bearer (or valet), and a Khansamdn (or butler), are also re- tained at the expense of Government. Every traveller pays a rupee (two shillings), for every twenty-four hours and under, that he remains, solely forthe lodging. Sometimes there are half-a-dozen people in each room, but they each pay the fee of one rupee. There are D&k Bungalows all over India, (in the plains and British hill stations), at distances of from’ eight to fifty miles between each.
- There are not half-a-dozen hotels (except at the Presidencies) throughout Hindoostan, so, bad though these Bungalows be, they are still an indispensable comfort.
KUNHA-KA-SERAI. 15
four miles distant from these cantonments. I have often been here before, and like the place very much, However I make no halt, as it is getting too hot for tents now.
PATTARSEE.
Double March. Distance, twenty-four miles.
6th March, 1850. Thursday.—A very fatiguing march. Passing through the city of Umballa, I came to Rajpoora, a distance of at least fifteen miles. Thence to Pattarsee is eight and a half miles. A heavy sandy road. The Guggur river is forded near the city of Umballa (on this side).
KUNHA-KA-SERAT. Double March. Distance, twenty miles.
7th March, 1850. Friday.—I have a slight attack of fever from the burning sun, and have been obliged to lay a Palanguin-ddék to Juliindhur. I have made all my camp equipage keep up with me,—four (bullock) hackeries* as well as the
* Tho carts of the country; very primitive conveyances, drawn by from two to six bullocks or buffaloes, at the rate of a mile an hour on sandy road, and never more expeditiously than two and a half miles on the best macadamized highways.
16 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
camels, and I think I have shewn myself a good general to accomplish such forced marches. The road is as sandy and heavy as before. Sirhind, a large city, is the intervening marek. It is eleven miles from this place. There is a Dak-Bun- galow here, but I have encamped in a Mangoe- grove, at some distance to the right of it. Istart in a palanquin this evening, and hope to reach Loodiana before day-break to-morrow morning.
LOODIANA. (Cantonments. ) Distance, twenty-eight miles.
8th March, 1850. Saturday.—I am in the Dak-Bungalow here, but long for the quiet of my camp, not feeling quite free from fever. This place is always crowded. The villages on the road are, Liishkurree-khan-ka-Serai, Douraéha-ka-Serai, and Soneewal, at the respective distances of nine miles, five miles, and four miles. There are good encamping grounds at each of these places.
JULUNDHUR. Distance, thirty-four miles. 9th March, 1850. Sunday.—TI arrived here
JULUNDHUR. 17
this morning by Palky-ddk. The distance from Loodiana is thirty-four miles, three marches, 2.e. Philour Cantonments, eight miles; Phugwéara, fifteen and a half miles; Juliindhur Cantonments, ten and a half miles. The Sutlej River is crossed by a bridge of boats, six or seven miles from Loodiana. Heavy sandy road.
I shall await the arrival of my camp here, and then change my carriage for camels only, before proceeding to Kot Kangra, as the road becomes hilly almost immediately after leaving Hoshyar- pore, two or three marches from this, and it would be impossible to take on Hackeries (bullock-carts), even if the bullocks were not knocked up, as mine must be by this time.
26th March, 1850. Wednesday.—I have not written fora long time. In the sameness of every day events, there is but little of interest to chron- icle. Besides the heat is so enervating that I feel ill and languid beyond expression. I have been detained here nearly three weeks by the difficulty I met with in procuring a sufficient number of camels. However, I leave this early to-morrow morning, and go to Hoshyarpore, vd Kurtarpore, leaving the direct route, just to effect a little mis- chievous fun!
18 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
KURTARPORE CITY. (Barun Durriz.) Distance, twelve miles.
29th March, 1850. Saturday.—I arrived here the day before yesterday. I might write pages on the ‘‘ Consequences of a whim,” (or my coming round by Kurtarpore,) but I will refrain, though I think the little domestic tale might alike amuse and instruct !*
This is a cantonment for regiments of native cavalry. The houses are small and mean in ap- pearance. I am just starting for Hoshyarpore Cantonments, which is on the direct road to Kot
Kangra.
HOSHYARPORE.
Distance about twenty-five miles from Kurtdrpore | | Cantonments.
March 30th, 1850. Sunday.—I arnved here yesterday morning. This is a double march; the intervening one is Adampore. The road is very
* It is not for my sake, mark! that I do refrain !
NAREE. 19
good, especially between Adampore and Hoshyar- pore, a distance of fourteen or fifteen miles. This is a nice little station, very prettily wooded with trees, and everything looks pleasingly fresh and green. The “civil lines,” * are the best, and are tastefully laid out; regular hedges of prickly pear seem the prevailing feature here, and strike the eye in every direction. There is no Dak-Bun- galow at Hoshyarpore, and I am living in tents. I proceed this evening.
NAREE. Distance, seven coss, or ten and a half miles.
March 31st, 1850. Monday.—I did not leave Hoshyarpore till near sunset, arriving here late at night, in a buggy (for me an un- usual mode of travelling). - I have come to the conclusion that I decidedly risked my neck, this species of conveyance not being exactly safe in these hilly regions. Shortly after leaving Hosh- yarpore, the country becomes very hilly, and the road is in some places steep and bad. The scenery throughout this march is very interest-
* The “civil” and ‘military’ lines are generally quite separate in a station; the former is appropriated to the civi- lians, ¢. ¢., the judge, the magistrate, &. Each of these lines have bazaars of their own.
20 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
ing, and by the uncertain light of evening, had a wild and gloomy aspect.
AM-KE-BAGH.* Distance, seven coss, or ten and a half miles.
April 1st, 1850. Tuesday.—This is a lovely spot, and my camp is pitched in a fine éope t of Mangoe trees. The road from Naree to Am-ke- Bagh is very good, and the latter half perfectly level, traversing a rich plain, covered with most luxuriant cultivation, and studded with clumps of magnificent trees. Wooded hills bound the land- scape on every side, and there is a wild beauty in the scenery, I have seen nowhere else in India. Hill and plain are blended most picturesquely, and give a singular character to the country. I crossed a river not far from this village. It was quite shallow, and the natives called it the ‘‘Soame,” or some such name.
* Grove.
+ Am-ke-Bigh, or Garden of Mangoes. ‘Am” is “ Meamgoe,” and “ Bagh” signifies “ garden.”
JWALA-MOOKHI. 21
KULLOO-KA-HUTTIE. Distance, eight coss, or twelve miles.
April 2nd, 1850. Wednesday.—This march has been very hilly and stony, and the rude path wound through two ridges of wooded hills, and along the bed of some water-courses nearly the whole way. At eight or nine miles we passed the village of Rajpoora. The last three miles consist of asteep ascent up a stony mountain, and a cor- responding descent to this village, which is situated near the foot of the hill The whole of this country is wildly beautiful, and very different from the scenery one usually meets with in the hills or plains of India.
JWALA-MOOKHI. * Distance, eight coss, or twelve miles.
April 3rd, 1850. Thursday.—This march is as pretty as the rest. The first half of the way is * Also called Jwfla-Jee. “Jwala” means “fire;”
‘‘Mdokhi ” can be translated either as “‘ mouth” or “ spirit ;” and “‘ Jee” signifies “lord ” (it is used as a term of respect).
“ne,
22 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
stony, and consists of ascents and descents. The Beas is crossed by boats at the seventh mile. At this spot the river flows in a deep and rapid stream. About half-a-mile on the other side of the Beas, the road becomes level, and I had a de- lightful gallop nearly the whole way to this village. |
Jwala-Modkhi is famous for its Temple, and takes its name from the fire which perpetually issues from fissures in the rocks which are enclosed within the temple. The village is large and might be more properly termed a town. The streets are narrow and paved with stone. As Jwala-Modkhi is built on the slope of a hill rising © five or six hundred feet above the town, the streets are all more or less steep, and the stone paving is generally in regular steps. The houses are of solid construction, and consist of two or three stories.
I went to see the famous temple. It is enclosed within high walls, and is situated at the north end ofthe town. The cupola is richly gilt, and the doors are of massive silver elaborately wrought. Two hideous tigers in golden effigy stand on a pedestal facing the entrance. On entering the sacred precincts, (at least, as far within the threshold as is permitted to sacrilegious feet!) I
JWALA-MOOKHI. 23
saw three or four places whence issued a lambent flame of a pale red colour. It is certainly a most extraordinary phenomenon, and I have never heard of a similar instance. The flames must arise from some gas in the rocks. How extra- ordinary this must have appeared before a temple was erected round the spot. Fancy a traveller coming suddenly on flames issuing spontaneously out of the rocks! He would be apt to regard it as magic, and be almost induced to seek for latent traces of a cloven hoof! No wonder that an idolatrous and ignorant race worship the fire, and consider such miraculous flames as the manifesta- tion of the presence of the Deity himself.
This temple is sacred to Davi,* a Hindoo God- dess. Myriads of devotees make a pilgrimage from the most distant parts of India to worship at this shrine. They consider that they are washed from all sin, if they do “ Tirdth” here.t On entering the sanctuary, the worshippers give gifts into the hands of the Fakirs,t who attend for that purpose.
*There are three Hindoo Goddesses called ‘ Davi;” Lakshmi, Sooraswatie, and Parbuttie, and I do not know which of the three is referred to, as the patroness of the Jwala-Mook- hi temple. Parbuttie is generally understood as Davi or Maha- Davi, unless one of the other two be especially mentioned.
t Pilgrimage.
¢ Or Faqucors ; holy beggars.
94 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
After holding these offerings over the flame, they cast them into the middle of the shrine. Frequently flowers alone are offered, and I saw the sacred edifice profusely decorated with them. No one is allowed toenterthe principal temple without taking off hisshoes. Two great bells are suspended to the roof of the portico, and these make a most dismal sound the greater part of the twenty-four hours. -
There is an excellent Bdéruh Durrie* here, and the Baght surrounding it is the only good encamp- ing ground.
RANEE TAL. Distance, about ten miles.
4th April, 1850.—The greater part of this march was level, and the road very good. The surrounding country, half hill, half dale, is most luxuriantly cultivated. The hills are beautifully wooded, and nothing but the most refreshing verdure meets the eye on every side. The road often resembles the pretty lanes in England, and the hedge-rows are covered with bright blossoms.
* « Baruh Durrie,’”’ literally a place of twelve doors. These buildings are erected by opulent natives for travellers, in the midst of gardens. There are generally ‘‘ twelve doors,” (or doorways). No furniture, and very rarely any servants in attendance.
¢ Garden.
RANEE TAL. 25
I observed several fine Peepul trees, and Prickly Pear grows very luxuriantly all throughout this country.
About the fourth or fifth mile, there is a fine puckha bridge on the road. It spans a broad river, called by the natives ‘ Kured,” or some such name. Within a hundred yards of this village, the road makes rather a steep ascent. At this spot, I observed a very tolerable path to the left, which, I was told, led to the cantonment of Noor- pore, five-and-twenty coss distant. The encamp- ing-ground here is on a small level, below the village of Ranee Tal. Nadoiin, a large and impor- tant native town, is five coss distant from Jwala Mookhi, on the direct road to the city of Mundy, and to Simla.
RANEE TAL.
7th March, 1850.—I have halted here for three days, as my poor “‘ Princey’’* has had fever. The weather was so damp and threatening, I was afraid to move while he remained so ill,—the
_ * My favourite canine pet, who will be subsequently described. VOL. I. C
26 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
little pet. However, I am going to Kangra this evening, as he is ‘himself again ! ”
: KOT KANGRA. Distance, five or siz coss, about nine miles.
8th April, 1850. Tuesday.—I arrived here yes- terday evening. The road isvery steep, and in some parts stony. About three-quarters of a mile from Ranee Tal, there is a river; a bridge (at present in embryo) is to span this stream. At this season of the year, there is but little water in it, and there is no difficulty whatever in fording it, About a mile from Kangra, I had a good view of the fort, which is built on a hill by itself. The river washes the ramparts on two sides.
Near Kot Kangra, the road divides; on the left it leads direct to the fort, and on the right it goes to Bohun, (a village almost adjoining Kot Kangra, ) where there is a Baruh Duwrrie, and excellent encamping ground. I took the former path, which conducted me to the bed of the river, by a steep, stony descent. There has been a great deal of rain lately, and I feared to ride across, as ] was
KOT KANGRA. 27
quite alone. I madea Puhdrie* carry me over the stepping stones, which were half buried in water, and a second man led “ Rival.”
The ascent to the fort from the river, is very steep, and being paved with slippery stones, is difficult, if not impossible for equestrians. I walked up, and the Puhdrie led my horse. I was quite exhausted by the time I reached the fort.
A storm of thunder and lightning, accompanicd by heavy rain, came on, and as I found that my camp was not pitched, I waited in the covered en- trance of the fort, for a considerable time. The only encamping-ground in Kot Kangra is a small piece of level, just outside the gate of the fort. It is a hot and exposed spot.
14th April, 1850. Monday.—I have halted here about a week, and to-morrow morning I am going to Dhurmsila, partly to see that place, and partly because the fearful heat of Kot Kangra has made me not only ill, but has also given me an attack of inflammation of the eyes. This is one reason why I have been unable to wnte in my journal as usual. |
I went to see the Fort of Kangra, two or threo days ago. It is a large rambling place, and inac- cessible on two sides. To any native force, it
* Or Puhdriya, mountaineer. c 2
28 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
would certainly be impregnable. Thereis a mag- nificent view of the Snowy Range from the Fort. The elevation of Kot Kangra averages two thou- sand feet above the level of the sea. The heat at this season is very great.
The Commander-in-Chief passed through Kan- gra afew days ago. Some of his people had the unparalleled impudence to wish my tents removed, in order that his Excellency’s camp might be pitched on this level ground. The cool imperti- nence of the request amused me too much to allow any feeling of anger, and I contented my- self with a contemptuous and unconditional refu- sal. So the great man was obliged to go elsewhere ! Who is he, forsooth, or what to me, that I should inconvenience myself for his camp? I have re- ceived every kindness from Mr. E—— here, who has obligingly lent me good tents, &c.
DHURMSALA. Distance, about eight or nine miles.
16th April, 1850. Wednesday.—lI arrived here yesterday, and this morning I rode up to Bhagsoo, which is about four miles higher up, and is situ-
DHURMSALA. 29
ated in a picturesque manner, at the foot of the Snowy Range. The road from Kot Kangra to Dhurmsala, is very tolerable, occasionally level, and occasionally a steep ascent or descent. The country throughout this march is wild and lovely. The road is often a mere lane, hedged with white roses and eglantines; the sweet scented flowers of which are in full bloom, scattering perfume and fragrance onevery side. The cultivation is very rich, and the hills are luxuriantly wooded. Several hill-streams are crossed, some of which are deep and rapid. There is a river too, (which I forded, ) about five miles from Kangra, whence the road to the cantonment of Noorpore, soon after turns off to the left.
The ‘‘ Goorkha Corps” * 1s stationed at Dhurm- sala, and Bungalows for the officers are springing rapidly into existence. The commanding-officer, Major F , lives at Bhagsoo, where he has built a very fine house. From Dhurmsiala to Bhagsoo, is four miles of steep ascent. Bhagsoo is estimated at seven thousand feet of elevation above the sea-level. It is delightfully cold there, much more so than at Simla, and the proximity of the snow is probably the reason. Mountains
* The ‘Goorkhas” are sturdy mountaineers, the warlike aborigines of the soil.
30 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
covered with snow rise immediately above the little village; they are apparently from twelve thousand to fifteen thousand feet in elevation. A dense black forest lies just above Bhagsoo, and looks dark and gloomy in the distance.
I have suffered terribly from weak eyes lately.
BOHUN. (Barun Dvrriz.) Distance from Dhurmsdla, about seven miles.
20th April, 1850. Sunday.—lI came here last evening from Dhurmsala, and to-morrow I start for Kooloo. The heat here, though not so great as at Kot Kangra, is still very distressing, and I feel ill and languid from its effects. My eyes too have long troubled me ; they first became inflamed when it was so hot at Kot Kangra in tents, and I have not yet recovered the use of them.
This is on the road to Kangra, which immediately adjoins the village of Bohun. There is a tolerable Bdruh Durrve here, and a puckha* tank close by. T saw Captain W. to-day. As I had not met him since I saw him years ago in Bundelcund, I did not recognise him at first, though he knew me again at once. He isen route to Kooloo, but
* Stone-built.
BOHUN. 31
does not start so soon asI intend doing. My camp leaves to-day, and I shall overtake it at Bhowarnuh (the second march) to-morrow. I shall be very glad to be out of this great heat. Though we have had almost daily storms of thun- der, lightning and heavy rain, the air feels close and sultry, and the sun is most intensely hot.
BHOWARNUH. (Kanera District.)
Distance from Kangra, two marches, about fifteen mules.
21st April, 1850. Monday.—I left Kangra this morning at daybreak. The distance is, according tomy calculation, about fifteen miles. ‘Nagrota,” six miles from Kot Kangra, is the usual march, but I thought that would be too short. This first stage consists of a very good road, nearly level the whole way. The remaining nine miles are also very good, and tolerably level. Just before Na- grota is reached, there is a bad piece of road, a short but steep and rugged descent to a river. The corresponding ascent is also rather rough.
Between Kangra and this place (Bhowdrnuh) there are some deep rivers, which, after heavy rain, it would probably be impossible to ford. Even to-
32 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
day I was afraid to cross one of them, and “ Rival” appeared also to dread it, for he unconditionally declined to enter the stream. After some delay I succeeded in bribing a man to take my steed across, and a second puhdrie carried me in a pri- mitive manner on his back! The current was so strong that a third man was obliged to be enlisted, to hold the hand of my porter, and thus aid him in stemming the rapid waters.
The country I passed through this morning quite charmed me; half hill, half plain, it was both picturesque and novel. On my left the high range of hills were capped with snow, and appeared only two or three miles distant from the road. Everything looked so fresh and green, and near the villages I observed many fruit-trees, covered with beautiful blossoms. Insome native gardens I noticed Plantain trees, and red and white roses growing in great luxuriance. The sweet-scented flowers reminded me of England. Many of the hedges which grew near the hamlets by the roadside were of eglantines in full bloom, and the delicious fra- grance perfumed the air for miles around. There is something in such seductive fragrance that seems to steal over the senses, and with me always acts as a sedative to high spirits. Indeed, I find it always makes me feel sad, I know not why.
PIPROWLA. 33
It is raining heavily just now. There is nothing so difficult to struggle against as gloomy feelings on a wet day in a solitary camp.
Bhowérnuh is a large village, and boasts of a Thannah.* Thenative authorities, however, seem both disobliging and useless, and I can get no aid from them in the way of getting off my baggage. Coolies ¢ are at a premium in this wet weather.
PIPROWLA (Kanera Disrrict.) Distance, ten miles.
22nd April, 1850. Twesday.—I arrived here about ten o’clock, a.m. The clouds all cleared off, and the sun broke out in such uncomfortable splendour, before I had gone half way, that I ac- tually wished for mists and even rain once more, with the perversity inherent in mortal clay.
The road is evidently a ‘“‘made” one, all the way from Kangra, but at present it is very much cut up by the heavy rain we have so lately been deluged with. I had to ford two or three rivers, and these are probably deep in the middle of the periodical rains. The country wears the same peculiar character as before—a strange medley
* Police-office.
t Porters, or carriers of baggage. 3 C
34 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
of hill and plain. A great part of the road is level or slightly undulating. I had one or two short but rather steep ascents and descents to get over on the way.
I have located myself in a good native hut, so that I manage very well without my tents, which are still behind. There is a village called Beij- nath, or Byden&th, about a mile and a half further on, where the 7’hanadir* resides, but I preferred remaining here. We passed a small camp half way, but I could not ascertain the names of the travellers. |
HURREE BAGH (Monpy Disrzicr). Distance, fourteen miles.
23rd April, 1850. Wednesday.—I arrived at this place a good deal fatigued, about eleven o’clock, a.m. The road was wearisome, and the sun very trying; consequently the solitary ride knocked me up very much. I found my tents pitched, breakfast ready, and everything comfort- able, so I did not long remember my miseries.
‘‘Sookha Bagh ” is a very usual march, and is
* The Thanadfr is the head of the officials who preside in the Thannah.
HURREE BAGH. 35
about half way. It is the first village in the district of the Mundy Rajah. I made no halt whatever, the aspect of the spot being bare and uninviting. Shortly after leaving Piprowla, I came to a deep river, where I found, to my dismay, that the bridge was broken! A new one was half completed, but I could see no trace of a path lead- ing to it, by which I could venture to take a horse. After a vexatious delay, I contrived to bribe a young Puhdrie to lead ‘“‘ Rival” through the water, while I clambered up the rugged face of the rock, and went by the half-finished bridge above. But the attempt proved abortive, for the clear green of the water had deceived us, and we soon found that the boy could never reach the opposite bank with * Rival” in safety. A second delay occurred, and at last I found it requisite to retrace my steps, and reach the bridge by a dismal défour.
It required great care to lead ‘‘ Rival” across the embryo bridge, and then over rocks and slip- pery stones, and through streams, for nearly a quarter of a mile, before I could reach the old road,* which I only rejoined at Beijnath. I had two miles of good level road after passing this vil-
* Since writing the above, I have again traversed the same route, as will be observed in a subsequent page of this volume. The road to the ‘‘ New Bridge,” as well as the bridge itself, had been completed (to my satisfaction).
36 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
lage, and I made the most of it too, by galloping at racing speed. The little ditches cut in the road (for the running off of superfluous water) by
no means detained me, and “‘ Rival” began rather to
enjoy them, I thought! But, at last, I came to a very steep hill, and at the summit of this eminence,
I turned round to give “one last long look”
to the plain land below. At this height, the ac-
tual inequalities I had met with on the road, be-
tween Kangra and Beijnath, appeared as naught,
and the tract of land before me seemed like a vast
plain, surrounded on all sides by hills, with one small break only, which divested it of the charac- ter of a bond fide valley. On one side, the high hills capped with snow, heightened the peculiar style of beauty, which was the attractive feature of the scene—in my eyes at least. The wide expanse of apparent pla was green with rich fields of cul- tivation, and picturesquely dotted with luxuriant clumps of trees, many of them covered with the. clustering blossoms of embryo fruits.
I was quite alone, but the solitude in such a scene had no weariness for me; and but for that enemy to romance of all kind, a burning sun, I might have been there still,—séi// gazing in de- lighted wonderment! Well, I am nota child, so let us put away childish things, e¢ revenons, chers Lecteurs, a nos moutons.
HURREE BAGH. 37
A gorge through the mountains took me into the more regular hilly country, such as surrounds Simla and its vicinities. Firs grew luxuriantly here, and argued the greater height of the country I had entered. It was pretty scenery too; but, accustomed to the hilly style, my eyes glanced but coldly on this portion of the road. I observed a ruined fort, perched up on a high peak to my right, but it was a long way off. There is a good deal of level road near Sookha Bagh, though the surround- ing country is hilly. I still had repeated glimpses of the snow-capped hills to my left. . I pictured in imagination, the glorious time when I should pierce into the heart of those icy regions, and when my woman’s foot should tread, where few men had yet dared to venture. Yes, it was a bright idea ; and the wildness of the scheme—its reported dan- gers—but add zest to the thought. I will go— though my life be the forfeit! It always makes my eyes kindle even to think of it. Those icy realms,—I love them for their apparently cold, inaccessible aspect! But I am getting sentimental again, and, oh! ¢hatwillneverdo. I must proceed.
The road from Sookha Bagh to this place, is on the whole rather steep and ascending. I crossed one rather broad stream ; but there was not much water in it. |
38 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
This is a lovely spot, beautifully wooded with magnificent Pine trees. Thence its name, Hurree (or Héra) Bagh—t. e. Green Garden. It is situated near the very summit of a high hill, and the Pine forest extends for miles. I wandered many hours in its dark shades this evening, till I became alarmed at the growing blackness of my retreat.
During the heat of the day, I sent on my tents, and coolly took possession of the best house in the village, one belonging to the Lumbaddr, or head- man, who vacated it at my uncompromising hookm.* All necessary supplies are procurable here, and cheap I believe. Barley is the ordi- nary substitute for Gram,f and is sold either whole, or ground in the form of ardawa.t
« << Foskm"’ means command.
t “ ‘* Gram” is a pulse on which almost all horses are fed in the plains of India. It ought always to be ground and soaked first. :
t ‘‘ Ardawa” is a mixture of gram and barley, either in equal proportions, or two to one, as the buyer prefers. Both the grains are parched and ground before being mixed together. Ardawa is thought very fattening food for horses, but owing to the loss of weight and substance in the parching process, and the extra labour required, it is more expensive than plain gram.
DRUNG. - 39
DRUNG, OR DRING. (Monpy Disratcr.) Distance, about twenty miles.
34th April, 1850. Thursday.—tI arrived here at nine o’clock, a.m. The sun was so powerful, even at that early hour, as to affect my head and side in the most painful manner, and I have been feeling ill allday. This is too long a march, and I would advise people to halt at Gddmah, a little more than four miles from Hurree Bagh, for between Goomah and Dring, there is no village near the road, nor any accessible spring of water. * Besides, even to reach this place, the miserable traveller has to go down a desperate khud,+ where
* Since the above was written, some material improve- ments have taken place on this road, and I believe travellers are indebted for the advantages now secured, to the exertions of Captain Wroughton, of the 8th N.I. This gentleman re- presented to the Rajah of Mundy, the sufferings and incon- veniences to which sick or delicate travellers were liable, by the want of a Bungalow. There is one now built on the road, just above Dring (whereby that steep descent is spared), and also one about half-way between Goomah and Dring. Sup- plies are procurable at these Bungalows, and a guard is kept on the premises for the protection and convenience of tra- vellers.
+ ‘‘Khud,” sometimes means simply a precipice; but its ordinary signification is a precipitous valley flanked by high and nearly perpendicular rocks or mountains.
40 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
riding is out of the question, and which same hill he has the satisfaction of ascending next day, when he resumes his march. This village 1s called vaguely, ‘‘ Dring,”’ because it adjoins Dring so closely, as almost to form one village, but in reality Dring” proper, is another mile still further down the khud, and the veritable cognomen of this hamlet is Hoolhoo or Oolhoo. There isa “short cut” from Dring to Mundy, (impossible for a horse), which winds along this hill, and crosses a river flowing below. By this route, Mundy city is only five miles distant, but the made road (frequented by people of sane mind!) is three miles longer. But I have not yet described the road. From Hurree Bagh to Goomah, after a hundred yards or so of ascent, the path rapidly descends to the bed of a river upwards of three miles from Hurree Bagh. Hence, to Goomah is about three quarters of a mile of steep ascent. Goodmah is situated nearly half-way up the face of a mountain, and is very strikingly visible from the opposite heights I had just de- scended. The town is small, and the houses are irregularly built. Its great attraction 1s the close vicinity of the Salt Mines.
I received a long account of those salt mines from an intelligent native of the place, for I had
- ye Mien, 5a
DRING. 41
not time to visit them myself. I will not boldly or rashly vouch for the accuracy of the following statement, though I do believe it may be relied on.
A horizontal gallery about three and a half feet square, is carried into the side of the hill, for about five-and-twenty yards. Fir trees cut into rude steps lead down a slope toa second gallery, and thence to a perpendicular shaft. The descent to the mine is effected by a bamboo ladder, and pine torches light the minersdown. There is but little to see when the bed of salt is attained, except an extensive excavation, the roof of which is red or dark coloured salt, and the bottom of the cavity © is partially full of water. The sides of these subterranean passages are protected by the hides of bullocks, sheep and goats, and the galleries as they advance are roofed with spars supported by the stems of pine trees. The rocks in which the salt is found are of grawacke* formation, crossed by veins of granite. The salt is formed in solid masses, and 1s laboriously dug out of the rocks. Sometimes it 1s requisite to sink wells, in order to find the deposit of salt, and then shafts are con- structed. When the bed of salt is sufficiently exposed, water is conveyed from the neighbouring springs and made to flow into it, remaining there
* See Appendix.
42 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
one day. The following day, meansare taken to let the water run elsewhere, and then the moistened salt is broken up, and carried out of the pit. After this it is sold to the traders who come from the neighbouring districts for this profitable article of traffic. These mines belong to the Rajah of Mundy, and form a principal portion of his revenue. The salt is of a reddish tint, and very heavy. Sometimes a vein of white salt is found, but this is always reserved for the Rajah’s private use.
At Dring, about a mile and a half below the encamping ground at this village (where I am located), is another salt mine, but not so profitable, I believe. A salt spring flows from the mines of Dring, or Drung.
From Goomah to this encamping ground, is fifteen miles of weary, wearyroad. The first half is very pretty, and through a beautiful Fir and Rho- dodendron forest. The graceful Pine trees re- minded me of happy hours spent at Simla. The peculiar smell of the wood recalled days long past, and I sighed to think that they were indeed past, —and for ever. How true are those lines of an old but pretty song :—
“Oh! Uttle thenge bring back to me The thoughts of by-gone hours,
DRING. 43
The breath of kine upon the lea, The murmur of the mountain bee, The scent of hawthorn flowers.”’
and I can truly say of some of the “happy days of old,”— ‘Oh! could those days but come again, With their thorns and flowers,
I would give the hopes of years, For those by-gone hours /”’
I fear I am getting lamentably sentimental ; but it 1s such an unwonted mood for me, that I | will let it run out of itself! I was really sad, deeply sad, when I passed through that beautiful Pine forest, and felt how lonely I was, how very solitary. The bright scarlet flowers of the Rho- dodendron trees, gay as they looked, only reminded me more sadly still when I had seen them last. The steep ascent was an excuse to walk my horse, and I had full leisure to indulge in sombre reflec- tions and melancholy retrospections—melancholy, because the happiness was so entirely past. The pleasant shade, too, made me forget how foolishly I was loitering, and I wandered on and on, more slowly, more sadly each minute.
I had crossed a very high range of hills; at least I supposed they were high, because I saw
44 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
snow quite close, on hills not much higher. At last my pleasant shade and mournful reverie were alike ended, by coming cruelly out into the bright sunlight. In spite of ceaseless ascents and descents, I galloped the remaining eight miles at a wild pace. The country was now bare of trees, and consequently very ugly in my eyes. I gal- loped past the rugged path which leads down to this encamping ground, but fortunately my ser- vant, spying me from the camp, ran breathlessly after me. I allowed him to take my horse, while I walked down the pathless face of a hill, slipping and stumbling at every step, over the treacherous grass. At last I reached my tent, feverish and exhausted from an unwonted walk on my useless feet, in the burning sun.
This is a hot place, and the fresh airs of hea- ven rarely condescend to waft their sweetness to these frightful khuds. I removed from the tents, to an empty house of the Wuzeer’s * (of Mundy), of which I made my people take possession, o et armis.
The flies and wasps rival each other in numbers here, and I find myself prepared for a desperate assault. My little ‘ Princey ” watches them with
* A Wuzeer is a Prime Minister.
MUNDY. 45
a vicious eye. The little mite! he is not many degrees larger himself. He stands on three legs, and barks violently when he misses his dart at one of the little enemies; when he secures one, he brings it in his teeth, and after tor- turing and killing it, licks my hand condes- cendingly, and is (on the whole) satisfied. He allows no one even to look at him without incon- tinently flying at them, and having vented thereby his indignation, he comes to me and jumps on my lap, where he stands awhile on three legs, and then nestles his dear little head in my hand, which that little head does not fill, He is my prince of pets, and this wandering is very like a mother’s vanity !
As I was riding along to-day’s march, I saw the white houses of the city of Mundy quite plainly to the right. They seemed so near, that I could hardly believe I was not to reach the city till to-morrow.
MUNDY, (Crry). Distance, eight mules.
25th April, 1850. Friday.—I arrived here to an early breakfast. J had the satisfaction of finding
46 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
that my Sirddr-bearer,* (my head-servant,) was non invenius, and my camp consequently in dis- order.
1 o’clock, p.m.—I have just learnt that in en- deavouring to reach by the short cut, he had lost the way, and been very miserable all night, in some dark and dreadful Ahud. So much for the “short cut.”
There is a mountain near Mundy, called the Gogah Joth. There is a legend about it, purport- ing that annually a savage conflict is carried on inside the hill, between the “‘Déotahs,”’ or male spirits, and the ‘Dains,” or witches. These spirits assemble from distant parts of India, thousands of miles, so says the legend.
The road from Dring to Mundy, 1s as follows —we will give a comprehensive programme—First of all I had to climb the weary hill, which lay
* The Strdar-bearer is the major-domo of all Mofussilite establishments where the master or mistress is too indolent to take charge of the Chdbee (keys) of the different departments. The servant alluded to in the text, was named Ghausste, a Mussulman by caste. Two years subsequently, this faithful attendant accompanicd me to England, and is still in my ser- vice. He had been with me during all my Indian career, and I did not like to part with such a staunch and attached de- pendant. His name will frequently occur in the following pages, so I may be excused this reference to him.
MUNDY. 47
between my camp and the road above. A violent cough came on before I reached the top, as I had considered that walking was preferable to riding, (under the stony circumstances, ) and I was almost in convulsions by the time I had attained the Christian road to Mundy. However, I did reach it, and I did not break a blood-vessel after all. Having mounted my horse, I proceeded on my way, not “rejoicing,” but mentally consigning to the realms of bliss, all the insane projectors of a road as insane as their objectionable selves. After going a short distance I came to a descent, and a quarter of a mile brought me to the spot where the road divides; the lower one to the left hand leading to the capita] of Koéloo, (Sooltan- pore), while the upper path ascended towards Mundy. ‘‘ Ascended,” however, but a very little way; the last six and a half miles consist almost entirely of a descent to the bed of the Beis. The city of Mundy stands on the opposite bank of that river. At the spot I alluded to above, where the road divides, I had a good view of a picturesque bridge which spanned a rapid river at the base of the hill I was descending. This river is called the Ohloo and Hoohloo, indiscriminately, by the aborigines, so I suppose it must be correct. The road is very good from this spot to Mundy, with
48 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
the exception of one or two rather steep descents. The last mile to the Ghat* is nearly quite level, and I flew over it at an appropriate pace.
The Ghdt is a good one, and the ferry-boats are on a very civilized plan, though somewhat awkward for horses. The depth of the river at this spot, averages about twelve feet at this sea- son of the year, and its breadth is from one hun- dred and twenty to two hundred feet, varying according to the high rocks which confine the channel, receding from the river, or jutting prominently forth. In some parts, the waters beat against these shelving rocks with violence, and offer an imposing imitation of the ‘ Madras surf”! The Rajah’s palace is a conspicuous building, high and white-looking. I am told that a new building is in progress of erection for his Mightiness.
I am encamped in a romantic Orange grove, and the Rajah has sent me down a large tent of his own. The trees are covered with fragrant orange blossoms, and but for the great heat, I should be very comfortable.
Mundy is situated in the angle between the Beas and Sookhétie rivers.
* The term ‘‘GAd¢’” has several meanings; the two principal
are,—a rocky and high mountain, and thatpart of a river where a ferry or bridge is found. |
DRING. 49
‘It will not be uninteresting to the general ’ reader, as well as the antiquary, to hear that there are traces of Alexander’s march through the distant mountains of the Himalaya, which prove, beyond a doubt, that the great conqueror pene- trated even to those remote regions.
Not far from Mundy, the hill of ‘ Sekundur- ka-Dhar”* is found, which extends to near Beijnath in the Kooloo Illaika. On this hill ruins are still extant. They are environed by a deep trench, excavated in the solid rock, immediately adjoining a large open space, manifestly planned by the agency of man. Local traditions would argue this spot to be classic ground, and the great Alexander’s altars of ancient celebrity are said to be the ruins here visible. It is this tradition which has christened the mountain.
There are also grounds for asserting that the ruins of similar classic temples are found near Lahore, and the line of Alexander’s march is still traced along the banks (or not far from them, rather) of the ancient Hyphasis, much in the same spots indicated by Pliny, and also Quintus Cur- tius. Alexander could never have built any
*“‘Sckundur” means Alexander; “Dhar,” a hill, (gene-
rally refers to a wooded mountain); thence the name is trans- lated, ‘‘ the Hill of Alexander.”
VOL. I. D
50 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
altars on the actual banks of the Punjab rivers; or if he did, all such trophies must long since have been swept away, the rivers of the Punjab being notorious for the constant change of their channels, and the washing away of their original banks. But to return to the Himalaya; I wish succinctly to point out such traces as still exist of Alexander’s progress through these mountains. The ancient historians are so rambling in their account, and so many discrepancies occur in the various authors who tell of Alexander’s exploits, that it is hazardous endeavouring to lay down any continuous or direct route as his line of march. Arrian mentions that Alexander proceeded to the river “‘Kophenes” after crossing the Kaucasus and passing the city he had built when he made his first inroad into Bactria. This ‘“‘ Kophenes ” is agreed, by the best authorities, to be the river of Kabool. Arrian proceeds to say that the great hero then sent on Perdiccas and Hepheestion to “‘ Peucelaotis,” near the river Indus, that they might have a pontoon ready for his passage across the river. It is universally allowed that the large plain of modern “ Peshawur”’ is meant by “‘ Peu- celaotis.” It is probable that the famous ‘“‘ Rock of Aornos,” so frequently mentioned by the ancient historians—one of whom asserts that its basin is
DRING. 51
washed by the Indus—is the same as the Rock of Iskardo. Ptolemy asserts that Alexander marched towards the “ Assacenie,” and the entire relation given by himas tothe locality, would render the be- lief very reasonable, that thiscountry is synonymous with the kingdom of Yessen, which extends to the Indus. Yessen lies to the west of Bultistén, or Little Thibet, and extends along the north of the Indus. There are many ruins and other remains connected with the name of Alexander (‘‘Sekun- der’) throughout the country of Yessen. But some of the ancient authors mention numerous elephants, &c. in Alexander’s cortége; and in- deed, frequently mention those unwieldy animals being found wild in the course of his marches. Now in my opinton, it is a wild idea to suppose it possible that elephants could be marched to Iskardo, or the kingdom of Yessen, from the Punjab up the rugged banks of the Indus. But the mere fact of mention being made of elephants being found in the jungles of the Punjib, is no argument against the truth of the ancient histo- rians; because, though certainly those animals are not now found far west of Déra-Dhoon, (the valley near Mussoorie stretching along the base of the Himalaya, and between those mountains and the Soowalic range )—-still it is perfectly possible pd 2
52 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
that in ancient times the elephant roved all through- out the Punjab. A very formidable argument for this belief lies in the fact, that more than one au- thentic history describes the Rhinoceros as having been formerly hunted in the “country of the five rivers,” whereas now, not one of that genus can be met with in any part of the north-west provinces of Hindostan.
Allowance must also be made for the glaring exaggerations of the ancient authors; for we have only to remember how many, in our own enlight- ened days, do not hesitate to romance and draw on their imaginations. For instance, the ‘230,000 head of cattle,” mentioned by Ptolemy as the spoil taken from the “ barbarians near the banks of the Euaspla,’’ must be regarded as a historical fiction. In a similar manner, the assertion that the Assacenie, a tribe of wild mountaineers, pos- sessed the enormous army oftwenty thousand horse, and thirty thousand foot, with elephants ad libitum, must be taken like many other assertions, cum grano salis. ~ J have not myself any doubt that careful research would discover to the persevering antiquarian, the long and unbroken line of march adopted by Alex- ander in India, and through such sections of the Himalayan Mountains ashe visited. But when
MUNDY. 53
we consider how very difficult it is now to edentify names of countries, towns, and rivers, and how requisite it is to glean with care and precision the grains of truth from the bushels of fable or exag- geration, it will be at once seen how prodigious an amount of perseverance, as well as classical research, must be brought into the field. If the antiquary would penetrate into the remote king- dom of Yessen, from all [ have heard of the re- mains there extant, I feel assured he would be amply repaid for the journey, and find ‘“‘Sekun- der’s” visit to those distant mountains no ro- mance, but a tangible reality.
MUNDY. (Crrv.)
26th April, 1850. Saturday.—Halted here to- day, to see something of the City, &c. The Rajah sent me his Jaunpaun* this evening to enable
* A ‘ Jaunpaun” is a conveyance very different in shape from a Palanquin or Dhoolie. It is more like a chair, with a high back, and covered in on all sides, with doors, panels, cur- tains, and canopy. It iscarried by four men at a time, on their shoulders, two to each pole. There are a great variety of shapes in the Simla, Mussoorie, and Darjeeling Jaunpauns— the fashionable conveyance in those Sanataria; and the men (Jaunpauntes) who officiate as the carriers of the Jaunpaun, are gaily attired in many coloured garments, or different kinds of livery, selon les gottts vartés du beau monde.
54 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
me to see the place, but it was not a very regal conveyance. Tarnished and faded were the orna- ments,—so like everything pertaining to a native - Court. I was taken along a road which went below the Royal Residence, and on the flat roof of the building, sat the Rajah and his brothers. They all rose as I went by, and made me a respectful salaam.* They appeared to eye me with half alarm, half curiosity, and seemed to regard me as a wild animal, so rare are English ladies in these bemighted regions. When I was carried through the city, mobs of women, men, and chil- dren, followed the Jaunpaun, and the exertions of several Chuprassiest entirely failed to keep them at a respectful distance.
What amused me most was the Mall/t Itis a circular road made on a plain piece of ground,
* Obeisance; a mode of respectful salutation in the East. The mght hand is applied to the forehead, and the person making the ‘“‘ salaam,’’ bows down, often nearly to the ground, while the forehead is touched two or three times with the right hand during the bowing process. It is disrespectful to use the left hand in performing the salutation.
+ ‘‘ Chuprasstes”” are men who wear badges; generally in Government employ. They are men of high caste, and are held in great respect among the natives; they are above all menial work.
¢ The ‘ Mall” is where the European residents in India drive and ride in a Station or Cantonment.
MUNDY. 55 *
where the Rajah actually drives a buggy almost every evening. It is near this course, that the road to Simla turns off from Mundy, and it ap- peared a good made road. Simla is about six marches distant, and I subjoin them below. * There is nothing that I saw at Mundy, particu- larly worthy of note. The heat is very great during the middle of the day. It makes me feel quite ill and languid. The elevation of this city must be very trifling, and it is so encompassed by hills, that fresh and reviving breezes are sadly at @ discount.
The Rajah of Mundy is a man in the prime of life, but the person who “de facto” rules the little kingdom is his Wuzeer (or Prime Minister), “Goshain” by name.t This official is a disre-
* ist, Sookhet, - - - 10 miles. 2nd, Puttun Dhér, - 7 ,, 3rd, Belaispore, - - 7 ,, 4th, Serin-ka-Huttie, O° 4 5th, Irkee, - - - 9 ,, 6th, Simla, - - - 12 =,,
+ A little more than a year subsequent to the above, the Rajah of Mundy suddenly and mysteriously died. There were hoarse murmurs of foul play; dark whispers of poison ; and the corrupt ‘‘ Goshaan” was deeply implicated by popu- lar rumour. And yet—can it be believed—this man was elected to more than vice-regal power by the Deputy Com- missioner of Kangra, and he is the ‘“‘ Regent’ now, with full
56 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
putable character; corrupt, mean, and utterly worthless. I have heard all sorts of tales concern- ing him, and he is alike hated and feared. There is a general meanness and patriness in the ménage of this Raj,* which must be perceptible to every impartial traveller who visits the capital. Truth is utterly unknown, and it isa crying shame that some reform is not made.t
~~
scope for his wicked death The blood with which he im- bued his guilty hands appears forgotten—wilfully forgotten, by the moral British rulers to whom the State of Mundy pays tribute and subjection.
* Kingdom.
+ Since the above was written, I can give an illustration of the shabby falsehoods which are so common in Mundy. Ecce s1g:—That promising character, ‘‘Goshaan, the Wuzeer,”’ when asked by one of the officials of Kodloo if I had received every attention at Mundy, had the barefaced impudence to reply, that I had received the usual ‘‘ Vuszur” (present) of ‘¢one hundred and one rupees,” and that my whole camp had lived free! Now, not only I, but all my people paid ezorbs- tantly for every single article; and as for the supposed ‘‘Nuzsur,’”’ it is not likely I should have accepted money / However, I was not put to the proof, and never had a chance of accepting or refusing a sous. Not so much asa “Ddlly” (or basket of fruit and flowers, always sent as a compliment in India) was offered, and I bought everything at twice the market value. After this, the veracious Wuzeer asserted that my servants had carried off three blankets without paying for them, and eleven ‘‘ seers’ (upwards of twenty-two pounds!) |
KHUMAND. OT
Very good honey is procurable here, and in large quantities, if due notice is given.
KHUMAND (Monpy Disrzictr).
Distance, erght or nine miles.
27th April, 1850. Sunday.—Reached my camp here at half past eight o’clock, am. I found that my servants had taken possession of a room adjoiing a Bunniah’s* shop, by way of my being cooler. And I would advise all travellers to follow this example, for the heat in a Shoul- déree T is very trying, especially at any elevation below ten thousand feet above the sea-level, when the season is so far advanced.
I crossed the ‘‘Ohloo,” or ‘“ Hoolhoo” River by a bridge. The road ascends to near the spot where I before said there was a division of paths; of spices. I think, when they were about it, they might have said a ton at once. Quite as worthy of credence.
The corrupt state of affairs in the Mundy Raj (kingdom) is entirely attributable to that monster of iniquity, Goshaan, the Prime Minister.
* A ‘“ Bunniah” is a seller of grain, sugar, spices, tobacco, &c.
t A “‘ Shoulddree’’ is a kind of small tent, adapted to hill- marching, and is generally light enough to be carried by two or three men.
pd 3
58 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
then the descent is regular and rather steep, till the aforesaid bridge is attained. A little level ground, followed by an ascent and a corresponding descent, brought me to Khumand. I crossed one or two streams en route (besides the Beas and the Ohloo rivers), but they were trifling, and at this season of the year are very easily forded.
The road is very tolerable, and my gallant Arab carried me beautifully over hill and dale, without making one false step. This encamping ground can scarcely be called a village. It con- sists of one or two shops, as far as I can see; but there is a hamlet about a mile distant. It is hot and uninteresting here.
‘“‘Princey”” is in great force. The little pet has taken a dislike to my Tindal,* whose legs he bites each time the unoffending man passes near him. He is very condescending to ‘ Psyche,” and occasionally takes notice of her. It is true she is about fifty times his size, but her respect for him is great, nor does she dare to eat any din- ner till the little Malik ¢ is served. There is one thing, which “ Princey ” will never permit, and
* The “Tindal” is the HKiashte, or tent-pitcher of an establishment in the Bengal Presidency. At the hill stations the man who has authority over the Jaunpauntes, and who
always accompanies the Jaunpaun, is also called the ‘‘Zindal.”’ {+ Master.
BIJOURA. 59
that is too much attention from man or beast to me. He flies at the interloper, and bites every one who presumes to divert too much of my attention! My pets are my companions; more true, more faithful than aught of human form. I am fortunate in the attachment of such noble animals |
BIJOURA, (Kooxoo District). Distance, thirteen mies.
28th April, 1850, Monday.—This is a long march over a very high range of hills, at least high in comparison to Khuménd or Bijotira. The road is at first partially level, and then comes a long and steep ascent up a high, wooded mountain. I observed on this hill, near the summit, a pale lilac-coloured, indeed almost white, rhododendron in full bloom. It is the first I have met with in the hills, and I was struck by its novelty, as well as the delicate tint of the large flowers.* This mountain is so beautifully and densely wooded
* I observed similarly flowered Rhododendrons, near the top of the Rotiing Pass, some time subsequent to the above. Such Rhododendrons are quite unknown at Simla or Mussoorie, as
far as I could learn, nor indeed have I met this species else- where in the Himalayan Mountains.
60 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
that I had some miles of pleasant shade. There are no villages near the road throughout this por- tion of the march, but water is abundant, flowing from numberless springs which issue from the heights above the path. The descent is steeper than the ascent, and not so long. There is a “* Huttie,” or shop, near the foot of this hill. A stony piece of bare ground leads to Bijoiira, and here there is a village and a ruined fort.
The Beas flows close by. The channel of this river is dotted with small islands overgrown with alder trees. The current is strong and rapid, and the waters dash violently over large rocks in many places, scattering the foam and spray an incredible distance, and making at the same time a most imposing uproar. There is neither ford nor ferry near Bijoiira, at least not without some previous notice, and then not nearer than two miles. This ferry is on the road from Bijoiira to Suraj, the district which lies between K6dloo and Simla, and not on the march I have come this morning. There is a second ferry across the Beas, about three miles from Buijotra, higher up the course of the river, on the direct road to Sooltan- pore; but the capital of Kooloo being on this bank of the Beas, of course I shall not have to cross the river.
BIJOURA. 61
Let no tyro imagine, that this ferry consists of civilized boats, or even Christian rafts. Oh no! ‘* Mussucks ”* form the only “ferry.” As I am going to visit the hot springs of Munnie Karn very shortly, and as this ferry is on the direct road to the said springs, I shall defer all descrip- tions of it till then. To say the truth, I have never seen a similar ferry; this antediluvian hukmut * is a pleasure to come. The Beas is too rapid and the bed is too much obstructed by large . rocks, to allow the possibility of boats being used here, and though a bridge might be practicable, no philanthropic individual has yet risen up to supply the “‘sinews of war.” As for the natives, they have the most crude idea of a bridge, except over small streams, when a few yards of timber suffice. Where necessity compels them to erect such across the larger and more rapid torrents, they are of so eccentric and fragile a construction, being merely made of twigs and ropes, that having heard them described, I am glad there is no “bridge” on the high road to Munnie Karn.
The fort here is a large square place, with towers also square. It is not garrisoned, and any
* «‘ Mussucks” are inflated skins, generally of bullocks and
goats. ¢ Contrivance.
62 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
traveller may pitch his camp within the walls. And a very good place it is too, much cooler quarters than a small tent. I have now entered the valley of the Beas, and I am told it extends to the foot of the Rotiing Pass, and increases in beauty each mile of the way.
There appears a good deal of cultivation in this neighbourhood; barley and rice are extensively grown. Gram is unknown, but wheat appears plentiful. Provisions seem cheap in this country, and I hear that higher up the valley everything becomes still cheaper. When I say provisions, I mean milk, o¢tah,* rice, sheep, &c. Fowls appear almost unknown in K6dloo. Ido not, indeed, see a single one of that feathered tribe.
I do not like what I have seen of the people of the country, but it is perhaps as yet premature to give an opinion.
* Ottah is a coarse kind of flour. The finest sort, ¢.¢,, such as the bakers use in the bread baked for the European resi- dents of the stations throughout the plains of India and the hill Sanataria, is called ‘‘ Maida.”’ The natives universally use ‘‘ ottah” in the manufacture of their daily food—the un- leavened cakes.
SOOLTANPORE. 63
SOOLTANPORE, (THE carrrat or Kootoo). Distance, nine miles.
29th April, 1850. Tuesday.—I sent on my ad- vance camp yesterday evening, with orders to pitch my tents below the fort, as I had heard that the Bédruh Durrie was occupied by the Assistant-Com- missioner of Koddloo, Captam H—. I had the pleasure of his acquaintance at Simla two years ago, and E——— and I even paid him a visit of a whole week at his house at Muhasoo. I did not presume to make my arrival known to him on so slight an acquaintance. Moreover, I had every reason to wish to avoid him, as I had heard on good authority that he was no friend of mine. To my inexpressible astonishment, | found my ser- vants quietly settled in the Bdaruh Durrie, and he came to meet me himself. He is very kind, and has given up the Bdruh Durrie to me, occupying a tent himself. I am much indebted to him, for the heat here is terrific.
Soo6ltaénpore is about nine miles from Bijoira ; the road almost entirely level the whole way. It lies through the Beas Valley, and runs along the right bank, (but as I was ascending the valley, the river lay to my right hand). The road never leaves the banks of the Beds for more than fifty
64 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
yards, till just below this city, where it turns a very little to the left, to cross the Sérberie (a feeder of the Beds). This torrent rushes down from the heights to the left of the road, and falls into the Beas, close by. It is crossed by a crazy wooden bridge, a short distance before its junction with the larger river. Sooltanpore (also called ‘ K6o- loo,”) is built on a spur of table-land, which projects from the base of high hills. This ‘ spur” is almost triangular in form, and of no great extent. The apez of this triangle is situated near the confluence of the Beds and Sérberie rivers. The elevation of Sooltanpore is given at 4,584 feet above the level of the sea. It is fearfully hot, from its confined situation, and in the rains, I am told that great sickness prevails. The city is built in a crowded and indefinite style ; the streets are generally narrow and paved irregularly with stones. From the Sérberie, there is a stony ascent of a hundred yards or more, to the city itself, which is entered by an eccentric gateway, the doors of which (zf there are any, which I doubt), never seem to be shut.
There is a Rajah here, a perfect cypher, with a paltry pittance by way of income, and not even a shadow of influence or the merest mockery of state. The palace adjoins the Buruh Durrie, and
SOOLTANPORE. 65
is a mean-looking building. The Rajah isa very common-looking person. He owns merely a few villages on the other side of the Beds; and yet he is the (reputed) descendant of princes who pos- sessed whole provinces, and were powerful and opulent not a hundred years ago.
lst May, 1850. Wednesday.—I have taken a day of rest, that I may see a little more of the capital of Kodloo before I go higher up the val- ley. It does not improve on acquaintance, which is a bad sign of a person or place. I mean to go to Kashmir vd Lahoiil and Ladak, if I find the road at all practicable. I fear I shall be dis- appointed. Captain H— sent for some Lahoil traders to-day, and the Naighie* of that country, and they give such a hopeless report of the Passes I shall have to cross, that I fear I might as easily reach the moon as Kashmir, by the route I had chalked out for myself! They say that the said passes will not all be open for two months, or more! However, I shall march up the valley, and go as far over the first (the Rotiing Pass), as the snow will permit.
* An official who possesses great power; the peasantry of the district over which he holds sway owe him unlimited obedience. He also looks after the revenues of the [laka.
66 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
Captain H— has been very kind, and I find him a very agreeable companion, so I was glad to hear him say that he intended accompanying me to the Rotiing Pass. We leave to-morrow morn- ing for “‘Nuggur,” where Captain H—— has built a house out of a quondam palace.
NUGGUR. (Koo1oo District). Distance, fourteen miles.
2nd May, 1850. Thursday—Captain H—— accompanied me here. We arrived to an early breakfast. Immediately after leaving Sooltan- pore, we descended a steep road, rough and stony. A short piece of level brought us to the banks of the Beds once more. This river is crossed by two new wooden bridges. The current is rapid, and the waters dash over great rocks and stones with a deafening noise. Having crossed to the left bank, we rode on over level ground, sur- rounded by rich fields of cultivation, occasionally diversified by ascents and descents (the former by far prevailing). Several rapid streams poured down, often across the road, into the Beds from
NUGGUR. 67
the Heights to the mght of our path. We forded most of the streams, which, at this time of the year are very tiny, but we had one or two primi- tive bridges to go over, where we found it diffi- cult to ride, as there were no railings to them. The road though not very wide, is tolerably good, and “ Rival” managed admirably, even over the rougher places.
Those who wish to go by the other bank of the river, direct to the head of the valley, vd the villages of Dwaéra and Kelat, not caring to see Nuggur, need not cross at all to the left bank. There is a good road from Sodltanpore to the head of the Beas Valley, along the mght bank of the river.
The scenery all along this morning’s march, | was very picturesque and lovely. The Beds flowed through the valley, rapid and turbulent; green fields met the eye on every side, and the land- scape was prettily wooded with various kinds of trees. High hills, apparently averaging about twelve thousand feet, their summits white and hoary, confined the valley on both sides. I should not think its utmost breadth was more than four or five miles. I have no authority for saying this; I merely hazard a conjecture. The “ Eleva- tions” I may give during my intended march
68 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
through Kooloo, will be entirely taken from ‘‘Gerard’s” or ‘“‘Cunningham’s” Heights.
Nuggur was the ancient capital of Kooloo, and was called ‘‘ Makarsa.” As the removal of the court to Sooltanpore took place nearly three centuries ago, but few houses now remain, and beyond the ancient Palace, there is nothing to tell of departed greatness. It is said to be one of the most ancient cities in these hulls.
The “Palace” is a three-storied house, ram- bling and irregular, of which Captain H has ingeniously contrived to rebuild and re-model a portion for himself. The situation is commanding, and I have jestingly called the house “‘ Nuggur Castle!” The view from the windows of one of the rooms, is perfectly enchanting, and on a moon- light night must be indescribably lovely. The opposite Heights, white with glittering snow—the peaceful valley, green and smiling far beneath— and the rapid river flowing turbulently through the middle of the undulating plai form a land- scape of surpassing beauty. There is a magni- ficent forest of Pine Trees covering the hill which rises almost immediately above ‘‘ Nuggur Castle,” and deep snow covers the summits of these wooded mountains. |
The houses in Kooloo are from two to five stories
NUGGUR. 69
high, and the materials employed in the construc- tion appear principally to consist of unhewn stone and thick layers of wood, with irregularly slated or wooden roofs. The latter are perched in a very peculiar manner on the tops of the primitive-looking domiciles, something faintly approximating to the Chinese style of architecture. Cattle are generally kept in the lower story.
Sheep are cheap and plentiful. Goats in these parts give but little milk. Fowls appear almost unknown. Captain H has a promising farm- yard, and liberally purposes to make it the means of propagating a fine breed of fowls in these be- nighted hills. The goats of the country are small and are covered with long hair; they are pretty but almost useless, unless to those who relish that peculiar fare.
The hedge-rows and woods abound with wild pears, pomegranates, and grapes. None of these wild fruits are ever much worth as esculents, I am told.* In the gardens near the villages, however, quinces, walnuts, and apricots are grown, and are said to turn out pretty good, though invariably
* When I passed through K6dloo some four months subse- queutly, I discovered that these fruits had a way of never coming to aripe, or at least a sweet state. The Pomcgra- nates were then as hard as brick-bats.
70 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
small. Grapes are also cultivated but are rarely worth eating, and are only used for Sherbet. Opium is likewise grown in quantities, and forms an article of traffic as well as of extensive home- consumption. Blankets are made in KoOoloo. Some that I saw were of rather fine texture, and of a plaid pattern. They cost from two to six Rupees.*
*‘Goitre”’ is frightfully prevalent, and every second person one meets with in Kooloo, appears more or less deformed by it, especially the women. Having once heard, I forget where, that this dis- figuring disease originated in drinking the water of certain places and countries, I feel half afraid of the purest rills in Kooloo.
The dress of the Kooloo people is most simple and primitive. The poorer classes wear nothing but a blanket! It is first wound round the waist ; then one end is brought over the shoulders, and fastened across the breast by a pair of skewers, or long pins with heads. These pins are made of brass, or iron, and sometimes two are connected together with a short chain. The other end of the blanket is fastened round the body, and attached to the waist. Occasionally a second blanket is
* A ‘ Rupee’ is the current silver coin of the East Indies, and is equivalent to two shillings.
NUGGUR. 71
added, but the greater part of the legs are bare. I protest I never looked at this insecure dress without a feeling of nervousness !
The men sometimes wear a sort of jacket, with loose trowsers ; but often men and women are dressed alike, and I have been at a loss to decide the sex of an individual. Both sexes wear woollen skull caps, with full upturned borders, black, red, and white, or sometimes a medley of colours. The women often add a tassel, which hangs down on one side from the apex of the cap. They plait their long black hair in one tress, and add black or brown worsted to make it longer still. This plait often reaches nearly to the ankles and is worn either hanging down behind, like a pig-tail, or it is turned up and wound round the head. The only shoes worn by either sex, are Kooloo ‘* Poolas.” These peculiar articles are made of grass, plaited in a very original manner, in the shape of shoes without heels, and rather long in the toes. Higher up the valley, I hear that ‘¢Podlas” are often merely plaited grass soles, secured to the feet by ribbons of grass, catching the big toe in particular! I have ordered a few pairs, which will deserve a place amongst original curiosities.
I see nothing approaching to beauty in the
72 : ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
men, women, or children of Kodloo. I do not at all like what I have seen of the race. They have none of the simple virtues of the primitive hill tribes; but appear turbulent, cunning, and corrupt. They show utter disregard to truth, and are an idle, wicked, cowardly people. Extraordinary customs regarding marriage pre- vail in this benighted land of heathens. A whole family of brothers marry one woman, and are her husbands at one and the same time, all living amicably together! There may be two brothers, or perchance a dozen; the number is of no conse- quence! The elder brother is the Mahk,* how- ever, of the house. Should he, for good and satisfactory reasons, turn out a younger brother, he is obliged to provide for him. The children born to these unhallowed unions, are given to each brother, according to seniority. The women are always running away to a different husband, or husbands, in these benighted mountains. Vir- tue is absolutely unheard of. The husbands com- plain in court, but merely as a matter of pecunsary loss. They are always willing to take the run- away spouse back to their bosoms,—this they never object to, but should the loving wife refuse, they ask for her price, ¢,¢., the sum she cost, and
* “ Mask,” means master.
JUGGUT SOOKH. 73
the pecuniary value at which they estimate her services, particularly in the fields. For women here are looked upon exactly as an article of fur- niture, or a menial servant, who is to do all the heaviest work in and out of doors. Who can wonder that a virtuous woman is not to be found in all K6dloo ?
The language spoken here is very different from that in use in other parts of the hills, and it will require some practice to pick up even as much as ‘is requisite for ordinary conversation with the more illiterate classes.
This is indeed a lovely valley. The elevation of this spot is greater than Sooltanpore, and the climate is far pleasanter. To morrow morning we go on to Juggut Sookh.
JUGGUT SOOKH. (Kootoo District.) Distance, about evght or nine miles.
3rd May, 1850. Friday.—We rode here this" morning, and had a delightful canter over a very tolerable road. There is a Bungalow* here, in a half-finished state. It was builtlast year by a Lieut. * House. A Bungalow is, properly speaking, a house with & choppered (grass-roofed’, tiled, or slated pent-roof. The
domiciles with flat, stone-built roofs, are termed correctly “« puckha kotee.”’
VOL. I. E
74 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
Reid, of some Native Infantry corps, who abso- lutely purposed resigning the service, to spend the rest of his life in this valley. However, find- ing the plan would not answer, he has never com- pleted the house. We occupy it during the day, as it is cooler than tents.
The valley of the Beas is gradually becoming narrower, and the hills on both sides are densely wooded. This is a very pretty spot, and the ele- vation must be five or six hundred feet greater than Nuggur. We passed several streams en route ; the cultivation is very rich and abundant. This valley is one of the prettiest I have seen any- where; the scenery is so varied and charming. There are two water-falls close by our camp, and they must be very pretty at the height of the rains. When the snow melts, during the heat of the day, the water-fall just behind the house pours down in a considerable volume, and the spray is dashed to a great distance. The road from Nuggur to Jiggut Sookh is not bad. The distance is either eight or nine miles. Just below Jiggut Sookh, there is a rapid stream, called the ‘‘ Doaingnoo.” There is a wooden bridge over this torrent. After heavy rain, the water tum- bles wildly over large rocks; and, in one spot has a fall of nearly thirty feet.
BOOROOAH. 75
The spray scattered by the cataract is declared to be the breath issuing from the nostrils of a divinity of Kodloo, bearing the name of “ Doang- noo,” and from this legend the river has taken its cognomen. After this torrent is crossed, there is a short but steep ascent before this place is at- tained. There is a village close to this Bungalow, and all necessary supplies are procurable.
BOOROOAH. (Kooroo District.)
Elevation above the level of the sea, 7,422 feet.* Distance, eight or nine miles.
4th May, 1850. Saturday.—Arrived here about eight o’clock, a.m. The distance must be nearly nine miles, and the road is quite passable fora large horse. There are several mountain tor- rents to be either forded, or crossed by primitive bridges. There are several ascents and descents on this road, but the former prevail; (t/zs it is al- most superfluous to say; as we have been steadily
* On the right bank of the Beas, I mentioned that there was also aroad. The intermediate marches between Sooltan- pore and Bodrooah, are Dwira and Kelat. The elevation of the
former is 5,104 feet above the level of the sea, and of Kelat 5,733 feet.
E 2
76 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
following the course of the Beis upwards, we must be higher each day). Bédrooah is almost the last village of Kodloo and is situated at the head of the Beas valley. The surrounding hills are covered with magnificent forests of Fir trees, and the whole scenery 1s wild and lovely. I was quite grieved to see that the axe had been at work already in these dense woods; perhaps in a few years this beautiful scenery will have become tame and stupid.
I was struck by the peculiar appearance of the country immediately surrounding Boorooah. Large rocks and stones are very wildly scattered about, as if some evil Genii had been hurling them in wrath or contempt from the frowning heights above.
There is snow on all the mountains near this village. The Rotiing Pass* seems to be quite inaccessible, so white and deep appears the snow. There is an unbroken appearance about its icy sur- face, very discouraging to my proposed attempt to ascend it to-morrow. |
Between Jiiggut Sodkh and Booroosh, nearly half-way, a little to the right of the road, the vil-
* Elevation above the level of the sea, 18,000 feet. The ‘Beas Rikhie,” or the spot on the Pass where the Beds rises, is 12,941 feet.
BOOROOAH. V7
lage of Beshésht is passed. Here there are Hot Springs, and though the water has a strong smell of sulphurated hydrogen, and a medicinal taste, it has no medicinal properties (at least none known to the natives of the place). The name given to these springs is ‘Beshéshti Khoond.”* I believe it is not a very clean or inviting place, so I did not halt there at all. Beshésht is on the left bank of the Beds. A little distance further on, we had to cross the river to the right bank. The channel was confined by rocks, and the inclination at which the torrent rushed down, made it fearfully rapid, while the enormous stones, &c., which im- peded its progress as it dashed madly on, caused a deafening noise and an immense expenditure of spray. The Bridge was a new wooden one, and in very creditable repair. This spot is thickly wooded with Alder Trees.
The latter part of the road to this village is very stony, and we had to cross several water- courses and rivulets which cut up the path. We are in a roomy hut here, and find the place cold after the lower parts of the valley.
I am told that ‘“‘red’” Bearst are found in the
* Khoond signifies a spring.
t A species peculiar to these hills; large, shaggy animals; the far quite a reddish brown in tint.
78 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
neighbouring mountains, and are frequently killed by the hill people. Leopards also cruise about the surrounding Heights, and are often caught by the village dogs, which are set at them in num- bers, almost invariably overcoming their powerful enemies.
To-morrow we purpose setting forth on an ex- ploring expedition to the Rotiing Pass. In the event of its being ‘“‘ practicable,” I shall proceed subsequently on the same route with my camp.
BOOROOAH.
5th May, 1850. Sunday.—sSeven o'clock, p.m. —We have just returned from our attempt to reach the summit of the Riténg-ka-Joth, or Pass of Rotiing, and I am terribly fatigued and chilled. We left this place at an early hour, having sent on the breakfast-tents, and we rode as far as we could. Within a mile of Boorooah we came to a rapid torrent spanned by an antediluvian spar- bridge. After this, the path became a steep and rugged ascent. Some places were so very bad, that I was forced to dismount, and clamber over the rude rocks as well as I could on my feet, tear- ing my delicate shoes in a melancholy manner,
BOOROOAH. 79
and bruising my unfortunate feet still more deplo- rably. One spot is very bad, and even the Hill Ponies, sturdy little GAddnts, were, with difficulty, dragged up the slippery and rugged rocks by two or three men aiding each. It was very fortunate indeed, that I had not brought ‘‘Rival.”? Captain H had kindly lent me one of his fine Ghoonts. It is extraordinary how safely these hill ponies scramble over rugged paths, and how fearlessly they walk along the brink of frightful precipices.
We found our tents pitched four miles from this camp, and breakfast ready. The rugged path lies along the nght bank of the Beas the whole way, and the scenery is wildly beautiful on every side. The channel of the river gradually becomes more and more confined, and the inclination at which it flows being so very abrupt, the waters boil and foam with a furious noise over the large rocks and stones that block up the bed, while the spray is dashed to a great height and distance. The channel of the Beas is very striking along this march, but when I visit the “ Rotiing”’ again (as I mean to do at some future time), I shall more fully describe its peculiar features.
The mountain we ascended was wooded a great part of the way, and I am told that the grass which grows on it, affords so very rich and luxu-
80 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
riant a pasturage, that flocks and herds are sent here from a distance to graze. Ghoonts are al- lowed to run loose on this Pass for four or five months of the year. I believe that occasionally a leopard carries one off, but this little casualty does not appear to have much weight with their owners.
After breakfast, we began the ascent of the pass in good earnest. We left our ponies at our tents; Captain H— walked, and I was carried in a small hill dhoole. The ascent was fearfully steep, and by way of a path we had nothing but deep beds of snow and sheets of ice. There are regular stone steps the whole way up, but the higher we got the more these steps were embed- ded in snow. The Coolies had great difficulty in carrying the dhoolic over some of the steeper parts.
At 8,731 feet of elevation, we passed a spot called ‘‘ Ralha,” or “‘ Nag Wodar.” Here, in the deep cavity of a rock, tame snakes are found, which are supposed to have been brought by Pilgrims. They lie torpid durimg the winter, entirely out of sight; but in the genial months of summer they come out of their hole, and bask in the sunshine. They will feed out of any person’s hand, and are particularly partial to milk. Of
BOOROOAH. 81
course I saw nothing of them, for deep snow sur- rounded their rocky dwelling-place.
At the elevation of a little more than eleven thousand feet, we reached that part of the Pass bearing the name of “‘ Murree,” where two stone- built huts, erected by the Emperor Lena Singh, and called after him, stand on a small piece of table-land. To reach Murree, we had to cross a steep bed of snow many feet deep. The air was bitterly cold, and as we drew near, the sleet which had been falling for some time, turned into large flakes of snow. We went into the huts for shelter, but there being no appearance whatever of the weather clearing, I insisted on proceeding. The huts were full of drifted snow, and we had but cold shelter there. On we toiled higher up the pass. The snow fell thicker and thicker, and Captain H— begged me to return, as many people have been lost in snow-storms, by rashly braving them on this Pass. He turned back to the huts, but J persevered a mile further. The Coolies at last fairly declined to proceed, as we could no longer see our way, and their feet sunk deeper and deeper in the fresh-fallen snow. I never saw such a dreary prospect as met the eye on every side,—north, south, east and west, nothing but one vast expanse of white was visible..
E 3
82 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
The storm of snow at last drove me back, and cold and almost benumbed I returned to Murree. We then retraced our steps to the tents, and as we neared them, the flakes of snow were gradually converted into sleet, and we were thoroughly drenched by the time we arrived at our tem- porary camp. I have caught oe and my cough has partially returned.
To-morrow morning we breakfast at Jiggut Sookh. I require no one now to tell me that this route will be impracticable for two months! Thus has failed my attempt No. 1, on Ladak and Kash- mir; but nothing daunted, I shall next essay the route which goes through Suraj, Buséhr, 8’piti, &c., &c. First I shall visit the Boiling Springs of Munnie KArn, and I hope to reach them by the 9th instant. They will take me only a couple of marches out of the direct route.
NUGGUR. (Kooxzoo Disrrict.) Distance, about evghteen miles. 6th May, 1850. Monday.—We breakfasted at Juggut Ssokh, and came on here to dinner.: To- morrow we proceed to Sdoltanpore, and the next day I shall start (alone /) on the first march of my attempt, No. 2, on Lad&k and Kashmir.
SOOLTANPORE. 83
SOOLTANPORE. (Koo1oo Disrrict).
Dnstance, about fourteen miles.
7th May, 1850. Tuwesday.—Arrived here this evening to dinner. It is hot, oh! how miserably hot here.
8th May, 1850. Wednesday.—I have spent the day here, and after dinner start on my soli- tary and perhaps dangerous journey. I am deter- mined to make the attempt, even if my life be the forfeit. I have written my ‘‘ Last will and testa- ment,” and executed an immensity of business to-day. Poor Ghaussie (my head-servant), on my telling him that I had made a will in case of my death, begged me, with tears in his eyes, to tear it up, because he had a superstitious belief that it was unlucky. Though I assured him that I was obliged, among other things, to provide for him and my other servants, he “refused to be comforted,” or convinced, and went on his way lamenting, to my camp at Choong (a double march), fourteen miles distant, where I am going
84 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
after dinner. I shall ride “ Rival” to the ferry on the Beas, and finish my journey in a dhoolie. He must be swam across, I suppose. I have sent ‘‘Princey” on m my dhoolie, and ‘“ Psyche” will accompany me, as she always does.
Capt. W arrived to-day from Kangra. He talks of finishing the Bungalow at Jiggut Sookh, and spending his eight months’ leave there. I do not envy him! Both Captain H and Captain ‘W have been endeavouring to dissuade me from my perilous journey, but they cannot frighten me out of a resolution deliberately formed. And life is not so precious to me, after all; I can calmly contemplate the most fatal contingencies. God willing, I shall overcome all difficulties, as I have ever hitherto done; and if not, death can come but once, and some time or other—‘“ once’? it must come. Iam not afraid.
# # # * * # * # *
MURREE. (Rorvune Pass).
Elevation, eleven thousand feet above the level of the sea.
6th June, 1850. Wednesday.—Nearly a month
MURREE. 85
has elapsed since I last wrote in this Journal. It has not been through idleness, however; and I have abundant cause to be thankful that I am here at all. By “here,” I mean here below—in this world of ours, and not the Rotiing Pass, in particular. In fact, I have been nearly killed, and quite hors de combat, since I last wrote in this Diary, on the 8th of last month. But I will try and retrace each day as well as I can.
On the evening of the 8th ultimo, I went to Choong. I rode to the ferry, which is five or six miles from Sooltanpore, on the road to Bijoiira. Here I was taken across the Beas on a charpoy, or bed, which was placed over two mussucks.* On each of these was perched a ferryman. Three or four other mussucks escorted mine, by way of pre- caution. I found my dhoolie and little “‘ Princey”’ on the opposite bank. ‘Psyche’ accompanied me on the charpoy. ‘ Rival” was swam across, and I waited to see him safely over. The river is rapid, and I considered the whole business a service of danger.
The road from the ferry to Choong is not at all good; steep, stony, and rugged. It winds along the banks of the Parbuttie river the whole way to Munnie Karn, only occasionally deviating for a
* These were the inflated skins of bullocks:
86 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
short distance. Choong is much higher than Sooltanpore, and from Bohun (where the ferry is), the greater part of the road is a steep and difficult ascent. It has been ‘“‘ made,” but it would be dangerous to attempt riding a large horse along such a narrow path, flanked by such terrific khuds. The Parbuttie is a rapid torrent, rising in the snowy hills beyond Munnie Karn, and flowing into the Beds a little above Bohun. Choong is situated at a considerably higher elevation than the bed of the Parbuttie. I arrived there at ten o’clock at night, and saw but little of a place which so nearly proved fatal to me. On the road, before it became quite dark, I observed numbers of wild pomegranate trees, covered with small un- ripe fruit.
My servants, luckily, sent pine-torches to light me to my camp; otherwise I might have had an accident even before reaching the tents, for the night was pitch dark, and the narrow precipitous road had many abrupt turnings. However, I arrived in safety. I went to my sleeping-tent, and ordered tea. While my servant was pre- paring it, I took.a stroll about the place, little imagining that my camp was pitched on the brink of a precipice. I saw a Chebottra* round a tree of
® Terrace.
MURREE. 87
large size, and I sauntered towards it. The fires at which the servants were cooking their dinner at some little distance, only rendered the dark- ness more complete at fifty yards, and I had no idea of my danger. I walked across that Chiboutra, and I remember no more till I found myself in bed, surrounded by terrified servants. I was in such frightful agony, that I screamed madly when I endeavoured to move a single inch in bed.
My servants told me subsequently, that they had heard two half-smothered screams, and at first eoncluded that it was a Pukdrie,* crying down the Khud. My Sirddér-Bearer however, declared that it was the voice of the “ Mem-Séhib,”t on which they rushed with torches in every direction, and at last found me lying senseless at the foot of a khud, some twenty feet deep, (on a stone,) and on the brink of a precipice, which probably only terminated in the roaring waters of the Parbuttie, hundreds of feet below. Had I fallen one foot further, my remains even would never have been found. The servants carricd me up, and laid me in bed. On first attempting to move me, the
- © Hill-man, or Mountaineer. t‘‘ Mem-Sahib”’ is the term used by the natives for a married lady; ‘‘ Missy-Baba,” denoting a spinster, no matter whether young or ancient.
88 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
agony they inflicted, roused me for a moment, they say, but only to swoon again.
Fever came on that night, and messenger after messenger was sent to apprize Captain H— of my imminent danger; but they made some mistake. and it was not till the third day that he heard of it. For sixteen hours after the fever supervened, I was delirious, and raved frantically. My ayah* kept incessantly moistening my lips with diluted sal volatile. My situation was indeed perilous; I had no medicine-chest in camp, no resources of any kind, and I was in the hands of ignorant na- tive servants. When the sun became powerful, I was carried into a Déotah, or temple, the vil- lagers volunteering to take out their monstrous idol, to make room for the dying lady,— “dying,” as all supposed. Repeated attacks of heemorrhage came on, and by three o’clock, p.m., the third day, all fever had disappeared. I was perfectly sensible then, and was told by my ser- vants of my danger. I felt myself, that but little hope of life remained, and it was a bitter thought to die thus in my youth, far from all dear to me, and without even an effort being made to save me.
I had evidently sustained great internal injury, for, besides the intense pain I suffered in my side,
* Native lady’s-maid.
MURREE. 89
I coughed up blood in fearful quantities, and the slightest exertion brought cold drops of agony tomy face. When I remembered that the nearest medical attendant was one hundred miles distant, I felt that I must prepare myself for the worst. It was a fearful thing to be thus prostrated, suddenly and. unexpectedly, in the midst of health and youth. It was a fearful thing to feel myself, at such a time, all alone in a wild country. I was in too great bodily agony to give any connected thought to the awful change which appeared then so near. And, oh! what further warning could I require,— than that, on a bed of death, (if it were one of pain as was mine, ) the mind is utterly incapable of pre- paring for that unseen realm beyond the grave, or of repenting a life spent ‘‘without God in the world,” however blameless that life may other- wise have been. I can never forget what I expe- rienced then. I thought I was dying, and yet I could not ¢hink of the past that was gone, or the unknown future which was before me. A shudder passed coldly over my heart, when I tried to rea- lize the prospect of approaching dissolution ; but I cannot say that actual fear for one moment possessed my mind. I knew that perhaps a few short hours might tear me from ‘all we know, and all we love;” but though the change seemed
90 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
awful, I could not dwell upon it; my thoughts each moment wandered, so terrible was the bodily agony which paralyzed my mental faculties. How hard must the human heart be, when such a les- son is in vain!—and yet, already the deep im- pression is fading away, with returning health and strength. I wish it were otherwise,—from my heart I do.
I was at last carried down on my bed, (from which I could not be moved at all,) and taken to Sdoltanpore, the servants shrinking from the re- sponsibility of my dying in that lonely spot. My woman-servant accompanied me, and when I fainted from the motion of the bed when carried by the Coolies up and down-hill, she was always at hand to stop them, and with extreme remedies recall the flitting senses. She repeatedly adminis- tered raw brandy, and this alone kept me alive.
I will not dwell on the days and nights of agony I had to pass. I owe my life, under the Almighty, to the care and skill of Captain H But for his kindness, my earthly joys and sorrows would long since have been at an end in the grave. When I recovered the immediate effects of my nearly fatal accident, I was taken to Nuggur, and about a week ago I went to Munnie Karn. The wonderful effects of the hot baths there were
'
+
MURREE. 91
quickly visible. Though when I first arrived I could not walk, (the injured side giving me ex- quisite pain when I moved,) in the short space of three days a marvellous improvement took place, and when I left it I had comparatively recovered. I have come up here for the benefit of the bracing air, and J am sure I shall soon be in rude health.
Mr. B— was up here for one day, and he went to the dop of the Pass. He told me that, though there was an immense quantity of snow and ice, he found the Pass practicable for walking. I like him very much. He is very agreeable and very celever,* though I think he dislikes me. Zh bien, I like him, and do not at all mind being abused ! I have not described Munnie Karn, so before I conclude this retrospect, I will do so.
I was so superstitious about Choong, that when I went to Munnie Karn, nothing could induce me to go wid that ill-omened village. To avoid the fatal neighbourhood, I went mght over a high mountain, called by the villagers the ‘ Beringta Joth,” + where the only vestige of a path was about a foot wide, flanked in many places by horrible precipices. The first day, 1 went from Nuggur to Séo Bagh (on the road to Sdsltanpore), a distance
* He writes an excellent letter.
t ‘‘ Joth” means a high mountain, and is often used to sig- nify a ‘‘ Pass.’’
92 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
of about eleven miles. It is a pretty wooded place, a little above the road. Thence I went to Pééney, a large village about nine miles on the other side of the steep mountain I have just alluded to; first ascending to the summit of that Height, and then descending two-thirds of the way. There is a magnificent view from the crest of this mountain. I saw Sooltanpore far below to the left, and the white glittering peaks of the Rotiing Range to the right, beyond the head of the lovely Beas valley. On one side of the mountain, the Parbuttie raged far below, and I looked down on the rapid waters of the Beds on the other.
I observed this fine view when I was returning. In going to Pééney, I was very ill on this iden- tical spot. Even the effort of being carried in. a dhoolie was too much for my strength, and I had repeated fainting fits and deadly sickness. We were so much delayed by all this, that the night came on, dark and gloomy, in spite of a little moonlight, the descent to Pééney being in one part thickly wooded. I was utterly exhausted, and fever supervened shortly after we reached Pééney. I was fortunate in getting into a good house.
“‘ Jirrie” was our next stage, some seven miles
a ee ae ee
MURREE. 93
from Pééney, and here I was ill all day. Mun- nie Karn is seven miles further, and I was se- riously knocked up the day I arrived at what proved to me, a Sanatarium indeed.
The first part of the road from Pééney to Jir- rie is a narrow rugged descent for about five miles to the bed of the Parbuttie. We crossed over to the left bank by a very tolerable wooden bridge. Thence to Jirrie the road was prin- cipally ascending. From Jirrie to Munnie Karn is the “made” road which we entered at the former place.
I felt that I had by the détour I had made, effectually circumvented the evil Genii of Choong! From the high mountain between Séo Bagh and Pééney, the village of Choong looms in the distance on the opposite hill, the Parbuttie flowing between the Heights, and no other hills breaking the ominous view. Half-way between Jirrie and Munnie Kfrn, we re-crossed to the right bank of the Parbuttie, by a wooden bridge. The road ascends considerably to reach Munnie Karn, and the latter part is very rugged, winding along immediately above the foaming waters of the Parbuttie. The channel of this river becomes more and more confined by high banks, and the bed is blocked up by huge rocks and stones,
94 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
Near Munnie Karn in particular, the torrent is perfectly white with foam, and dashes madly over its rugged bed with a roaring sound.
Munnie Karn is situated on the mght bank of the Parbuttie (or Pérub) River. There is a large village here, and high mountains covered with snow environ the place. There are several Hot Springs, three or four of which boil furiously. The latter issue out of rocks near the edge of the river, and dense steam rises out of them in con- ' siderable volumes, heating the air all round. When IT passed the principal Boiling Spring on the eve- ning of my arrival at Munnie Karn, the steam absolutely darkened the path for a few yards, and the heat was very distressing.
I boiled rice in it, and was anxious to try eggs. This they earnestly objected to, saying ‘ that their springs would be defiled.* I made old ‘‘ Bodhie-ka-ma,”” my Abigail, bring her Chupat- ties,t and cook them in the spring. She threw each cake of unleavened bread into the boiling
® The Hindoos have a religious objection to eggs. Their sacred books class both fowls and eggs in the category of “unclean things,’ and no strict Hindoo will touch any- thing so unholy, on any possible pretext.
t ‘‘ Chupatties”” are made of flour, unleavened, in the
shape of cakes of different dimensions. The flour is well kneaded previous to being formed into cakes.
MURREE. 95
water, and they fell to the bottom of the rocky basin. After lying there two or three minutes, each cake of bread rose to the surface fully cooked. I ate a tiny piece, but cannot depone on oath, even for the sake of the novelty, that I relished the flavour.*
As I could not throw eggs into the reservoir without doing violence to the religious prejudices of the heathens around me, I kindly refrained. But being still anxious to make the experiment, I put some of the boiling water into a large cup, and placed several eggs in it. When I had given them sufficient time to be boiled, I broke them, and, to my horror, half-done chickens rolled out !
[Philosophers might, perchance, find a glorious field of speculation in inquiring whether the above peculiarity was incidental, or inherent in all “‘Munnie Karn eggs !’’]
The embryo chickens were greedily devoured by ‘‘ Psyche,” much to my disgust, before I had time to stop her! My “Princey” did not approve of the gurgling water, or the thick- rolling steam. He barked furiously at both, the
* All the inhabitants of Munnie Karn cook their food in these boiling springs, and wood is never used by them for culinary purposes.
96 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
whole time I sat by the springs, much to the edification of the intelligent natives.
A woman fell into the water, and was so much scalded, that she lingered five days, and at last died in great tortures. This was but two days previous to my visit to that spot.
The springs all flow into the foaming Parbuttie, where, of course, they soon lose all identity. There are several baths a little distance from the river, built of stone and enclosed on all sides, as well as roofed in. I had one of these emptied, and then cleaned with numberless buckets of cold water out of the river, before it was again filled from the hot stream. These precautions are, I think, indispensable, previous to using these baths, for they are thronged from morning to evening with dirty natives. After having my ‘“‘ Khoond’’* purified, I placed a Chokeydart on guard at the closed gate, night and day, to exclude all in- truders.
These baths are filled by an aperture in the side of the building facing the hills whence the springs flow. The water is carried to the aperture by means of a rude aqueduct cut in the ground.
* « Khoond is used indiscriminately to signify a spring or bath.
{1 A watchman,
MURREE. 97
I found the water always very hot at night, and I could see the steam rising’ and curling along the surface of the bath. The smell of the water, also, seemed invariably more redolent of sulphur after dark. This might have been fancy, but I dis- tinctly perceived it, or thought I did.
I was unable to stand or walk when I arrived at Munnie Karn, and so I was carried into the bath by old ‘“‘ Bodhie-ka-ma.” My severe illness had wasted me to a shadow, and I was but a light weight in her arms. There was considerable difficulty about the requisite support when I reached the deep bath, but with some ingenuity I was held up with the aid of a sturdy crutch and my Abigail’s skinny arm. On the first occasion, I fainted before I had been five minutes in the bath, which considerably alarmed my attendant. How- ever, I was wrapped in shawls and blankets, and carried to the house I occupied, and there placed in bed. I slept long and soundly,—the jirst real sleep I had had since my accident; and the very next morning a decided amendment was visible. I invariably noticed the soporific effect of the bathing in these hot springs, whether taken by night or by day, but I am unable to decide whether this is always the case, or if it was merely incidental to my debilitated state.
VOL. I. F
98 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
This place (Munnie Karn), is a favourite holy spot with the Hindoos, who come immense dis- tances to do “ Tirdth”* here. My Dhobie, (or washerman) a young Hindoo, cooked a quantity of rice and otéaht in the springs; and he is going to carry this with him wherever he goes, till he reaches the plains, and can distribute the holy food among his bhd2-bund.t
No one here appears to know where the Parbut- tie takes its rise. They vaguely and indefinitely point to a range of mountains about ten miles off (as the crow flies), white with perpetual snow. There is no road beyond Munnie Karn, except a very rugged pugdundie (or footpath) along the right bank of the river.
Near Munnie Karn, about half a mile on the Jiirrie road, I observed a bridge over the Parbut- tie, the very sight of which made my head turn round! It was a single log of wood, either end resting on a projecting rock. This fragile spar thus spanned a rapid, roaring torrent, at the height of some thirty feet; the very elevation of which made the vortex below appear doubly
* Or ‘‘ Tirth.” Anglicé :—to make a pilgrimage to a holy spot, especially at sacred waters.
+ A coarse species of flour.
t ‘“‘ Bhaéi-bund” means brotherhood; comrades.
MURREE. 99
terrible. And yet the Puhdries think nothing of crossing the river by this dangerous bridge. So much for custom.
There is a legend attached to Munnie Karn, which is supposed to have originated the name. The story says that, once upon a time, the God- dess “‘ Parbuttie”* was bathing with the Divine
* Parbuttie is the mountain-born wife of Maha Déo or Siva. Some accounts say she is the daughter of Brahma in his incar- nation of Daksha, and they also call Parbuttie, ‘‘ Sootie.” The terrestrial abode of Siva and Parbuttie is in the mountains of the Himalaya. Parbuttie has a great many aliases. As Maha Davi, she is the consort of the Lord of the Universe. As Parbuttie, she is his constant companion. As Dddrga, she is the Amazonian protectress and most powerful companion of the gods, endowed by them respectively with their numerous attributes, and armed by them for their protection, with various instruments of destruction. As Ka&li, she is their Diana Taurica; and personifying eternity, that black and fathomless abyss, by which Kal (Time) shall itself be des- troyed, she is arrayed in attributes supreme over those of her spouse. She has been described under numerous forms; the principal of which are, Bhawanie, Davi, Doorga and Kali, (besides Parbuttie, her ordinary cognomen). As Dodrga she is represented with ten arms, and is a majestic and tre- mendous character. The famous Hindoo Festival, celebrated all over India, called the Dusséra, or Dédrga Pédjah (worship of Ddsdrga), is one of the most splendid and universally held of all the Hindoo Festivals. It takes place in the end of September or beginning of October, according to the time
F 2
100 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
‘*Maha Déo,”* and that when her Goddess- ship was thus engaged, the Serpent-God yclept
of the year the Hindoo month “ Ashwinoo’’ falls; the whole of the preliminary ceremonies and festival itself (lasting ten days) is a season of universal pleasure and festivity. As Kali, in the destroying character of Time, Parbuttie is re- presented of black or dark-blue complexion.
* Maha Déo, or the Great God, is called Siva and Roodra. He is usually represented as the Destroyer, under various forms. Sometimes with three eyes and the crescent in the middle of his forehead; sometimes with five heads; at others he is represented with numerous instruments of destruction, or seated on his bull Nundi, with hia wife Parbuttie on his knee. He is also represented under the appearance of Kal, or Time, the destroyer of all things. Some authorities suggest that he is represented with three eyes in his character of Zime, to denote—the past, the present, and the future; and that the crescent on his forehead is the symbol of the measure of time by the phases of the moon. He is often represented with a necklace of skulls, to illustrate the lapse and revolution of ages, and the extinction and constant succession of the generations of mankind. When he extends the trident in one hand, he is supposed to show that the three great attributes of creating, preserving, and destroying are in him com- mingled, and that he is the Jewdra, or supreme lord, aBove Brahma and Vishnoo.
In the immediate vicinity of Calcutta, stands the famous Temple of Kali, sacred to Siva or Maha Déo, in his character of Time, the Destroyer. Myriads of animals: are said to be annually sacrificed on this altar. The consort of Maha
MURREE. 101
‘‘Shéésha,’”’* quietly stole her ear-rings, which she had left on the bank of the river. The thief was discovered shortly after, through the exer- tions of the Heavenly Host, who all feared the consequences of Maha Déo’s wrath. The Divine Serpent unconditionally declined to give up the property, but in his clamorous assertions that it was his own, he ‘reckoned without his host,” poor god! The ear-rings (“‘ Munnie Karn” )t+ skipped out of his nostrils by reason of the violence of his vociferations, and flew to their true owner in an orthodox and honest style! I ought to have remarked that the wicked Serpent-God had carried the jewels to the Regions Infernt, and
Déo is Parbuttie, the mountain-born Goddess elsewhere alluded to.
The Hindoos being divided into six sects (the Vishnaivas, the Saivas, the Saurias, the Ganapatyas, the Sactis, and the Bhagavatis), it is only the second sect who acknowledge Siva as the supreme deity.
* Shéésha was a thousand-headed serpent, also called Ananta (or Eternity). Vishnoo, the second of the Hindoo Triad, and the preserving Spirit of the supreme Deity Brahm or Brahma, is often represented as floating on the primeval waters, reclining on Shéésha, when weary of his usual bargue, the favourite Lotus-leaf.
{+ Munnie Karn signifies “‘ear-rings;” ‘‘ Munnie” literally means a jewel, and ‘“‘ Karn”’ is the ear.
102 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
from the spot where the earth opened to permit the exit of the ear-rings, boiling springs arose ; and from that day to this, the boiling water has ceaselessly flowed.
I have never heard of any medicinal properties being attributed to the waters of the Hot Springs of Munnie Karn, but from my own experience, I can truly testify to the beneficial effects of bathing in them. The suddenness of the improvement, and the permanency of the benefit derived, was absolutely like magic. I could scarcely have be- lieved it possible that a few days could have worked sucha wonderful change, had it not occurred to myself. The taste of the water is sickly, and when hot it has a sulphureous smell.
How strangely have (Ghaussie’s fears been nearly verified! I allude to what he said when I was preparing my ‘“‘will’” atSooltanpore. The evening of that very day I was nearly killed! He reminded me of it, a little while after my ac- cident, saying that the fall down the thud was solely attributable to that fatal ‘Will !”
With all their attention in sickness, native ser- vants are most ill-judged, foolish nurses. At Choong, when I was quite sensible, I heard them openly lamenting my approaching death; and ac- tually old ‘ Bédhie-ka-Ma” brought a looking-
MURREE. 103
glass to show me how much my face was altered, and my eyes sunken! When I asked her if she thought I should live to reach Kangra, in order to obtain medical assistance, she did not even ¢ry to cheer me, but shaking her head, begged me to resign myself to the will of the Almighty, and bear my inevitable fate bravely! ‘Job’s com- forters,”’ indeed, were they all to me, in my extre- mity at Choong.
Now that attempt No. II. has so mournfully failed, I will wait till I am strong enongh, and then undertake No. III. by going ¢hzs route, for the Passes will all be open soon. What a change since I was here five weeks ago, both in the cli- mate and scenery! The air is cold and bracing, but the snow is daily disappearing near Murree, and the grass is green and luxuriant. Flowers of every hue enamel the ground—anemones, iris, buttercups, daisies, violets, and a myriad of others. There is such a delicious purity in the clear, cold air, that every breath of it seems to impart health and strength. I often stroll about till I am quite weary, and am tempted to exert myself too much in my present state of health. We have tents pitched about three hundred feet above ‘ Lena Singh’s huts,”’ on a nice little level piece of ground,
104 ADVENTURES OP A LADY.
fresh and green to the eye, and glittering with bright flowers.
7th June, 1850. Thursday.—A very high wind is blowing, keen and piercing. The air is purity itself, and the sun is shining brightly.
We have heard from Jiiggut Sookh that poor Captain W— is dangerously ill, and he has sent for Captain H—, as he is the only per- son in Kédéloo, who possesses any medical know- ledge.
Every one tries to frighten my servants about the road Iam going, and the Passes a-head are described as something ternific. Since I arrived at Kangra, I have had numberless desertions amongst them, and my establishment is woefully reduced to a quarter of the number who accom panied me from Julundhur. How I shall manage with only five servants I do not well know, but I am resolved to make “ attempt No. III,” as soon as possible.
There are stone steps all the way up the Rotiing Pass, and the melting of the snow is daily expos- ing them to view. The ‘‘ Huts’ I have mentioned several times, were built by Lena Singh, a mighty potentate, for the preservation of travellers in severe storms, which are very frequent on this
MURREE. 105
snowy Pass. The stone steps are also said to be the work of his philanthropy, to facilitate the difficult ascent of the Pass. Captain H— has nearly twenty Ghoonts grazing on this mountain now. The pasturage is most luxuriant, and the hardy animals appear to revel in the cold. They are often not even housed at night, but remain un- hurt in the keen night air, without the slightest clothing. He has lost two or three by leopards which is the only objection to keeping cattle here. However, this was entirely owing to the careless- ness of the man in charge.
I observed the lilac-coloured rhododendron growing in stunted clumps, close to our camp here. It is very like the species I noticed in K6dloo, perhaps a little smaller. Birch frees grow on the peaks in the neighbourhood of our tents. The ordinary forest-line of elevation is from ten to eleven thousand feet above the level of the sea. Birches and pencil-cedars are found at a greater height than any other trees, but even these are not met with much higher than our present elevation.
June 8th, 1850. Friday.—Captain H— went down at four a.m., to Jiggut Sookh. A very high and bitterly cold wind blowing as usual. I received a letter this evening as I was returning from a soli-
F3
106 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
tary stroll, from Capt. H—, and another from S—; the former giving rather a better account of Capt. W—. If he lives, he will owe his life, under Providence, to Captain H—, who found him almost dying, and was obliged to use the most violent remedies. He is suffering from disease of the heart. Poor fellow! I hope he may recover. How sad it would be to die in the wilds of Kooloo, far from all his friends and relations. He is still in extreme danger.
June 9th, 1850. Saturday.—I took a long walk this morning; it was bitterly cold. Capt. W— was better at six p.m. yesterday, and I hope Capt. H— will be able to come up to-day. He sent for his “ medicines” at one o’clock this morning, and gave a more favourable account of his patient. I think he is entitled to take out a diploma and call himself ‘“‘ Dr. H ”? Mr. O'S » an original genius,* is also at Jiiggut Sookh. I received letters by ddk (post) to-day.
June 10th, 1850. Sunday.—Captain H
* This youth was famous for his bravery (!) in crossing a terrible suspension-bridge of twigs over the Chundra, near Koksur, in Lahoiil, which will be described subsequently. He got half-way, and then fear overpowered the gentle boy, and he sat down on his heels, weeping like a timid girl. The
native expression is, that when they tried to move him, he bellowed like a bull!
MUBREE. 107
arrived this evening. His patient was better, and out of all immediate danger. A terrible storm yesterday, and incessant rain.
June 11th, 1850. Monday.—Heavy rain all night. Took a long walk this morning with Capt. H—. I had a great search for a favourite gold chain I lost two days ago, while out flower-hunt- ing, but it proved useless.
The damp has unluckily brought back my cough.
June 12th, 1850. Tuesday.—Heavy rain and bitterly cold.
June 13th, 1850. Wednesday.—A fine day, but still cloudy. A most animated and not very com- plimentary correspondence is at present being carried on between Mr. B— and myself. I am accused of detaining Captain H— from his post near Captain W—. The latter has had a relapse, and Mr. B— abuses me in consequence. I saw the letter, as it was marked “ Service,” and have sent Mr. B— what Captain H— facetiously styles ‘one of my particulars.”
I have enjoyed my séjour up here very much, and my health is rapidly returning. The air is so very clear and pure, that it has a positive effect on the spirits, rendering them light and buoyant. The same result has frequently been observed on the Alpine Heights, and travellers have considered
108 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
this a positive means of benefiting the health. The snow is still very deep on the adjoining peaks, and the night-air is keen and piercing, but during the day the noon-tide sun melts away all the ice in the immediate vicinity of our camp.
There being no village here, a Bunniah is obliged to come all the way from Bodérooah with supplies for my whole establishment, every day ; and though he takes care to indemnify himself for the trouble, I dare say he does not much relish the diurnal jaunt. My Asiatic servants evidently disapprove of the elevated position of my camp, the cold being quite sufficient to prevent their appreciating the bracing purity of the mountain breezes. They were all in ecstacies when they heard I had made up my mind to go down to- morrow, en route to my old abode at Nuggur Castle.
BOOROOAH. (7,422 feet high.) Distance, seven or eight miles.
June 14th, 1850. Thursday.—I was quite sorry to leave the Pass; such a fine clear morning, the air cold and bracing. I was obliged to walk down the steep parts of the descent, and I have strained my muscles in so doing, and in consequence, me votld / as lame as a rheumatic cat, or “ Princey”
BOOROOAH. 109
on his three legs.* We did not start till near noon, and the sun was hot. Half-way we rested by the banks of the Beds, in a shady spot, till the cool of the evening, arriving here only in time for dinner. We picked some sweet blue violets on our way down. Yesterday while hunting for my chain, we came across the yellow violet, a pretty but scentless flower, which only grows at great elevations.
The bed of the Beas is of a very extraordinary character all along this road, narrow and rugged. The high rocks which flank it appear as if parted by some volcanic power. The river takes the most singular bends, often almost at right angles to each other. All the snow which fell yesterday on the hills adjacent to Murree has melted to-day.
* « Princey”” was my especial pet, a dog of notorious and matchless beauty. He was a very small English terrier, black and tan, perfect in form and feature. His diminutive size, exclusive affection for me, and most eccentric ways, endeared him to me for years of my lonely life. His favourite attitude was standing on three legs, with his head on one side. He was poisoned in Kashmir, and all that remained of my Ds? (heart) was interred with my faithful companion in his romantic grave in thoee wild and lovely gardens of Shalimar, so famed in song.
110 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
JUGGUT SOOKH. Distance, nine or ten miles.
June 15th, 1850. Friday.—Breakfasted here. Mr. B— and Captain W— have gone on to Nuggur. A fine day, but I feel it hot after the cold ‘ Rotiing.”’
By-the-bye, that desperate quarrel has been made up! We go on to Nuggur this evening. The flies here are an intense and inexpressible nuisance.
NUGGUR. Distance, nine miles.
June 16th, 1850. Saturday.—The quartette have met! No disunion now, so “that’s all right.” I saw Captanm W—. He 1s still ill, but out of all immediate danger. He goes on to Simla to-morrow, and that promising young man, Mr. O’S———, accompanies him. Mr. B— goes to Kangra, and they all travel together as far as Bijoiira.
I received about twenty letters to-day, one and all full of entreaties, advice, or hookms* not to go to Kashmir and Thibet. I have no intention, however, of giving up my favourite project. Poor O— is surrounded by a host of enemies, and I
* Commands.
NUGGUR. 111
fear he will be overcome. E— is so crafty and so false, and I am not there to give personal evi- dence, so that the poor boy is very unfairly treated. T must send in another “statement on oath” to- morrow.
June 17th, 1850. Sunday.—Nearly killed my- self to-day writing out “statements,” as long as from here to the Rotiing Pass, being still weak from the effects of my late accident. I would not have made the same exertion for myself, but I must not allow any selfish considerations to inter- fere with my giving O— all the aid in my power. As these statements are on ‘oath’? before Cap- tain H—, in his capacity of magistrate, I hope they may have some weight.
June 18th, 1850. Monday.—Sent off the papers to-day, together with Ghaussie’s ‘ Depo- sition on oath,” which may be of use. Received a letter from Major H—, telling me that my horses had arrived at Kangra, and had been sent on to W— at once. The heat is great, and the ‘nlague of flies” at present prevails here.
June 19th. Tuesday.—Thermometer 79° at nine a.m. Close and hot. At two p.m., 88° of Fahrenheit.
June 20th. Wednesday.—I start this evening for Bodrooah. It looks very cloudy, and a storm seems brewing.
112 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
BOOROOAH.
Distance, eighteen or nineteen miles.
June 21st, 1850. Thursday.—Arrived here at seven, a.m. I travelled on my bed, and left Nuggur at eight o’clock, p.m., in the midst of heavy rain and growling thunder. It soon cleared up however, and the moon shone brightly but coldly on us. The faithful Ghaussie accompanied me. He was carried in my dhoolie behind. The Coolies, always inefficient, were lazier and worse than ever ; and it was near two o’clock, a.m., when I reached JiggutSookh. I was set down under a tree, and for two mortal hours lay shivering in the bitter cold, till new Coolies were collected by the Nav- glae, or head-man of the village. The moon had set, but the pine-torches lighted us on our way. We started a little before daybreak for this place. On arriving here I found that all my things had gone on, no one knew where! SoI must wait till Captain H— joims me. Not even a cup of tea to be had. Poorme! There is no Naighie or Thanadaér,* or any head person of the vil- lage here. I cannot therefore procure supplies
* The Naighie is the native superintendent of the district, and the Thanadar is the head of the Thannah, or police. (Both terms have been elsewhere explained.)
MURREE. 113
or even Coolies to go on with. What a state of discipline.
Seven, p.m.—Captain H— has arrived, but I am so sleepy and tired that I am not likely to eat much now !
No Coolies procurable as yet. Such are the admirable arrangements for travellers in Kodloo.
LENA SINGH’S HUTS; “MURREE.” (Rorune Pass. )
June 22nd, 1850. Friday.—Arrived here at eleven, a.m. I rode up the greater part of the way on one of Captain H—’s Ghoonts. We were obliged to make a little “détour”, the “stone steps’? being too rugged and precipitous. Nothing has come up yet (six, p.m.), except the beds and bedding and one tent. What insubordination and nsolence in the Bodrooah people. Actually evincing the greatest contempt for the orders even of their Malk,* Captam H—. It1s bitterly cold here, and though the day has been clear and bright, it looks cloudy and threatening now.
* Master.
114 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
KHOKSUR, OR KOKSUR, (Lanovr District). Distance, twelve miles. Elevation, 10,053 feet. -
June 23rd, 1850. Saturday.—This place is at the foot of the Rotiing Pass, on the opposite bank of the Chundra river in the country of Lahoil. This march is said to be ten miles, but I put it down as twelve. The first five or six are steep and rugged, ascending to the crest of the Pass. We crossed large fields of snow—the air keen and bracing. At the top of the Pass we diverged, a few yards from the direct road to look at the Beas Rikhie, the spot where the Beas river rises. The Rikhie 1s completely embedded in deep snow, so we saw nothing. The descent to Khoksur is rather steep and stony, and a mere apology for a path. Several rapid streams pour down, and it is rather nervous work crossing them on horseback. My Ghoont, (or hill-pony, ) carried me safely over the worst ground, and I rode at least two-thirds of the way. We observed many pretty and (to me, at least) new wild flowers. Violets, anemones of all colours, pink, lilac and blue primroses, forget-me-nots of various hues, geraniums, butter- cups, and many other species, covered all the
KHOKSUR. 115
ground which was free from snow, and looked so bright and gay in the sunlight, that I almost fancied myself in England. However, such fancies were quickly dispelled when I looked around and saw the glitterig peaks of eternal snow on every side. At the crest of the Pass is the boundary between Kooloo and Lahoiil. At the commence- ment of the descent I saw the Chundra river rushing down the valley from the right. Its bed is considerably broader than that of the Beas, and it is far deeper and more rapid. The colour of the water is muddy and thick. Iam told this arises from the quantity of snow which falls into it. It is @ Very rapid river, and no “‘puckha” bridge can be made to span it. Its banks in some places are three hundred yards in width, and the sand extends far above the river. The bridge we crossed was made of twigs. It was about seventy yards in length, a foot in width, and the sides about two feet in height. A most hormble and dangerous affair. The twigs were several inches apart in some places, and I saw the Chundra foaming be- low. I must say I felt extremely nervous ;—the sides unsafe and fragile, were so very low besides, that I was obliged to stoop as I held on and threaded my trembling steps across the rickety twigs. Captain H— went across with me, and
116 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
though no one else was allowed to go over at the same time, the fragile structure swung to and fro in the most alarming manner. My com- panion held one of my hands, and his presence gave me some confidence. I do not think I could have ventured alone.
I am told that many lives are annually lost by this dangerous bridge giving way while persons are crossing it. When I went to Nuggur from the Pass, I sent on most of my servants and bag- gage to this place, with a Chuprassie,* to await my arrival. They tell me that they found the bridge broken, and had to wait four days on the other side. I had very nearly accompanied them myself, and it is most fortunate I did not, as it turned out, there being no village on that side of the river. The Chundrat rises in the Bara-Lacha,
* A man who is distinguished by a brass badge conspicuously placed on his breast, as a token of his influential post. (Very probably elsewhere explained.)
{ Chundra is one of the deities of the Hindoo Mythology, representing the Moon. This god is described always as a male when the moon is in opposition to the sun. He is painted by the Hindoos as young, beautiful, and of resplendent fairness, with two arms, bearing in one hand a lotus and the other a club, riding on an antelope, or in a vehicle drawn by one of those graceful animals.
KHOKSUR. 117
so does the Bhaga. They rush down in different directions, and form a junction in the Lahoil val- ley below Khoksur.
Lahoil is a most peculiar looking country. A narrow Valley flanked on both sides by high per- pendicular peaks, bare and barren, and covered with snow. Khoksur has been once or twice buried under an avalanche, since which, whenever the snow falls heavily and continuously, all the people adjourn to a habitation built in the rocks, where they remain snowed up for weeks or months. This village is small, consisting of but eight or ten houses.
June 25th, 1850. Monday.—We halted yestcr- day, partly because no Coolies were to be had, and partly because we were both ill. Captain H— has been suffering for the last three days, but I never felt better than on Saturday, when we left the Rotiing Pass. I was considerably fatigued by the time we arrived here, and fell asleep after dinner without undressing. Captain H— came to my tent about nine o’clock to bid me good night, and observed that I was looking very pale, my face and hands being clammy and cold. I was by this time very ill; my head wandering; deadly sick, and my extremities like ice. Hysterics came on,
118 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
and foam gathered on my lips. I had thrown myself on the ground, where I lay in great suffering until two doses of diluted ‘‘ Eau de Luce” were administered, and hot water applied to my feet. Though the water was nearly boiling, circulation was but partially restored. All yesterday I con- tinued sick and unable to rise. Pulse not lower than 108 allday. Iam much better this morning, but my pulse still keeps very high, though less irregular than before.
Captain H— declares my sudden illness was caused by the rarity of the atmosphere on the Pass, and by getting wet feet in crossing one of the beds of snow the day before yesterday. Query? If the rarity of the air thus affects me now, what will be the effect of 16,000 and 17,000 feet of elevation ?
Captain H— is still feelig poorly; he was ill before he went up the Rotiing, and having ne- glected himself, is suffermg doubly now. He will not listen to my sage advice, so it is of no use my offering him any !
Coolies have to come a long way, and as we foolishly neglected to send on notice that they would be wanted, we are obliged to wait patiently. None have yet arrived, but should they come in time, we intend making half a march, at least.
GOONDLA. 119
I bought yesterday a Mishdnee* of Kodloo, in the shape of a Kooloo blanket, for two rupees. I could not procure a better one, but it was my last chance of obtaining any specimen of Kodloo manufacture, as we are now in Lahoil.
GOONDLA. (Lanovr District.) Distance, fourteen miles.
June 26th, 1850. Tuesday.—Arrived here about two o’clock, p.m., very much knocked up by the heat of the sun and sick from fasting, having eaten nothing before I started. I did not break- fast till three o’clock, p.m.! I came alone too, which made the march seem very dull. The first thing I heard this morning was, that Captain H— was worse—too ill to move. I shall miss him very much ; not only as an agreeable companion, but as a dear and kind friend. I fear I must make up my mind to lose his society; I shall feel very lonely for a long time.
This march is a long one of fourteen miles, and I came (at a walk) on a Lahoiili pony. The path was very good, from two to five feet wide, and no long ascents or descents. The faithful Ghaussie
* Remembrance. Sign.
120 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
accompanied me, mounted in the same manner as myself. The road goes along above the banks of the River Chundra, which is broad and rapid the whole way. The grass is richly abundant, but cultivation is both scanty and backward, and there is scarcely a tree to be seen in all _Lahoil. A few of the Willow species, called by the villagers ‘* Belle,” grow near the villages. During this march, I passed the villages of Thélung, Sissoo, and Roshung, &c. &c. Many persons halt at Sissoo, which is about half-way.
The people of Lahoil are very ugly, both the men and women, and shockingly dirty. It is im- possible to understand a word they say, nor can we make ourselves intelligible. Captain H— has kindly sent people with me who will act as inter- preters, and also do all I require in the way of getting Coolies, &c., and making arrangements for my daily marches. I dare say I shall manage to get on, but still I shall miss my agreeable companion. So disconsolate was I on the road, that all the pretty wild-flowers were passed un- heeded by, though they carpeted the grassy banks !
A curious thing has appeared on my finger ; some horrible Kooloo complaint I must have been infected with! 1 have a poultice on my middle
GOONDLA. 121
finger, and as itis the mght hand, I find it no easy task to write at all, and I rather felicitate myself on my ingenuity in managing as well as I have. There is no irritation in the finger, only a little soreness when the pustules first break out. These pustules are confluent, and after the first day or so, cease to give any pain. No one can tell me what this complaint is, and I do not know how to get rid of my unwelcome visitor.
June 27th, 1850. Wednesday.—Halted here all day. I had sent on all my things, and started at one o’clock, p.m., when I received a note from Captain H— to say he was better, and was on his way to jom me. So I turned back, sent off my Bhishtee* ‘ Kulloo” on a pony to recall a few things, while I waited at Goondla for Captain H—; he arrived at three o’clock to-day. Lovely weather, dry and bracing. I suppose it is raining heavily on the other side of the Ritang-ka-Joth ; t pauvres malheureuz ! who are condemned to be thus victimized.
* Water-carrier.
+The range of mountains I have just crossed, forming a natural barrier to the Periodical Rains; Lahoiil lies beyond
their influence. VOL. I. G
122 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
KARDUNG. (Lanovt.) Distance, ten miles.
June 28th, 1850. Thursday.—This march is some ten miles of capital road; only one short - ascent and descent, steep and bad. The path lies for two-thirds of the way above the banks of the Chindra River. This stream joins the Bhiga about four miles from this place; and the united rivers, known by the name of the “ Chindra- Bhaga,” flow through the country of Chumba, and as soon as they reach the Plains, are called the ‘‘Chenab,”’ which flows by Moultan. Both the Chindra and Bhaga are large, deep and rapid rivers. Both rise in the Bara Lacha range of mountains, though not in the same spot. After taking different courses, they form a junction between this place (Kardung) and Goondla, flow- ing almost at right angles to the spot where they meet.
The hills on the opposite side of the Chindra were destitute of cultivation. We saw no villages of any kind till we had passed four or five miles beyond Goondla. Here afew began to appear,
KARDUNG. 123
and not far from Tandee* I observed a bridge re- sembling the Khoksur bridge of twigs on a small scale. Cultivation on this side of the Chindra becomes richer, and the country appears more populous as you advance, throughout this march. Wild-flowers grow most luxuriantly, of which we gathered several kinds, such as the larkspur, the columbine, the flower-of-Bethlehem, a large species of anemone, the blue onion, and hundreds of others. The columbine grows here in rich abundance. It is of various colours and tints, blue, white, lilac, yellow, and other shades, and has a very delicate fragrance. Wild eglantines, and pink and red roses cover the banks; the latter have a very sweet scent like the white wild-rose of Kooloo and Kangra. The leaf of the eglan- tine has a sweet perfume. On the hill opposite Kardung, on the other side of the Bhaga, grow yellow wild-roses, the leaf of which resembles the sweet-briar. Captain H— tells me it is quite a new species, and very rare even in Lahoil. It is entirely confined to a mile or two of ground. We went flower-hunting this evening, and saw
* Tandee is a village on the opposite bank, situated near the junction of the two rivers (the Chiindra and the Bhaga’. It is on the road to Triloknfth and Chumba.
6 2
124 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
many pretty varieties. Trees begin to be abun- dant here; principally the Willow (‘‘ Béllie” ), and the Pencil-Cedar; the latter is something like the Fir.
The whole village turns out to stare at us as soon aS we alrive at our tents, and they never weary of sitting and gazing from ‘morn to dewy eve.” I suppose they have seldom seen a white- faced man before, and certainly I am the first European lady who has ever visited Lahoil.
Poor Captain H— is again feeling ill, I am sorry to say.
29th June, 1800. Friday.—Halted here to- day, both on Captain H—’s account, and to enable us to make arrangements for Coolies and supplies, as after the next march, we have many days of uninhabited and desert tracts, called by the natives “ Ogar.” Captain H— is still ill, but I hope he will be able to come on to-morrow.
The ‘‘ Lidmas,” or Priests, are very strange- looking creatures, and the dress is peculiar.*
I have seen many “‘ Ydks,” (a species of ox,t)
* It resembles the surplico of the Roman Catholic clergy, only the sleeves are more distinct and elaborate. The priestly robes are always of deep purple or yellow colours, and are made of the Thibetan ‘‘ Puttoo,” or woollen cloth.
+ The Bos Grunniens of Linneeus.
KARDUNG. 125
in Lahoil, but they are not so fine or so large as those I saw at Darjeeling, and which came from Sikhim. They never thrive but at great eleva- tions. At Darjeeling or Simla, they soon sicken and die, as people have found who have rashly made the experiment of taking them down. If Captain H— is well enough, we are going this evening to pluck the rare yellow roses on the other side of the Bhaga.
I never saw an uglier race than the Lahoiul people of both sexes. I have not even observed one pretty child, either. The Lahoiilis seem, how- ever, (ugly and dirty though they are,) to be a simpler and better race than the Kodloo people. The Lahoil Coolies will only carry most absurdly small burthens; women and children are much more employed in this capacity than the grown men. I left Kangra with nine Coolies, four Kuhars* and one pony (for carriage). I have now from forty to fifty men! As my property has not increased by magic, it shows what a lazy and useless race they are, to consider eight or ten seerst a sufficient load for a man, and two or three for their masculine women.
* Bearers.
¢ A ‘‘ Seer,” is an Indian measure, containing about 2lbs. 1 oz. of English weight.
126 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
It is the custom of the country to mount the servants belonging to a camp, as well as the Euro- peans, so they travel like gentlemen now!
30th June, 1850. Saturday.—Halted again to day, on account of Captain H— being very unwell. We went, however, to see the Yellow Roses, on the opposite bank of the Bhaga. We crossed the river by a sanga, or wooden bridge.
These roses have not a sweet smell, but the leaf resembles a sweet-briar. This shrub extends over a mile of ground, and is no where else observed. The other roses are of three or four kinds; one is of a mich crimson shade. We saw plenty of rhubarb also, and had some stewed for dinner. It was very good.
KOOLUNG. (Districr or Laxovt.) Distance, ten miles.
Ist July, 1850. Sunday.—According to my calculation, this is about ten miles from Kardung, and a very tolerable road. Cross the Bhaga by a sanga. Willow and Cedar trees abound through- out this march; the road winds above the banks of the river the entire distance. Very high hills
PUTSEO. 127
surround Koolung—snowy peaks above twenty thousand feet in elevation. I also observed two extensive Glaciers, one of which threatens to en- gulph a village below.
The bed of the Bhaga is scarcely as broad as the narrowest parts of the Chiindra, but I am told it is a deeper river. There were many pretty wild-flowers on the banks by the road. The hill opposite Goondla is called the “ Bukra Bynd.” The country of Chumba lies beyond. This village of Kodlung is, probably, about a' thousand feet above the elevation of Kardung.
A dak* came in this evening from the plains.
PUTSEO, on PURSOA. (District or Lanovt.) OosaR. |
Distance, fifteen miles. 2nd July, 1850. Monday.—This is a most weary
* “Dak,” means Post; but let no tyro imagine that these Posts resembled such as are customary in civilized countries. In India, the “ Post’? consists of letter-carriers, who relieve each other every eight or ten miles. This mode of conveyance is alow enough in the plains, the men walking about three miles an hour, (all delays extra), but in these wild mountains, the greatest uncertainty attends the delivery of these letters. ,
128 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
march. We passed Dharcha about half-way. It is the last village in Lahoil, and a very small one. Putséo is the first encamping ground in the ‘‘Qojar,”’ or uninhabited tracts of land. The Bhaga is crossed by a small bridge just below our camp. After passmg Dharcha, the bed of the river becomes narrow and confined, the waters rushing violently between solid rocks. The road, too, becomes a mere pugdundie, (footpath,) stony and rugged, and the hills are bleak and bare; the whole scenery dreary in the extreme.
There occurs a junction of rivers just below Dharcha. The “Juskur,” a broad and rapid stream, rushes into the Bhaga from the left as you advance on to Dharcha from Koodlung; and another river, with some unpronounceable heathen cognomen, flows into the Bhaga from the right. High peaks of everlasting snow rear their icy crests above this spot, and all around wears an aspect of savage grandeur. Beyond this last vil- lage all trees disappear, after passing a few mise- rable, stunted pencil-cedars.
Just at the junction of the three rivers, I was struck by the volcanic nature of the rocks. At this spot, some village had been destroyed by a mountain falling over it. The debris of the same, charred and black as from the effect of fire, lie in
PUTSEO. 129
wild confusion, and rocks are scattered about as if uprooted by some tremendous convulsion of na- ture. The natives all talk of the ruined village, and assert that the mountain entombed it in one night, but none appear to know what caused the catastrophe. It is clearly to be attributed to vol- canic agency; the peculiar strata of the rocks, and the presence of lava, confirm this theory. Through- out this neighbourhood, it is very evident-that the mountains are all volcanic.
The road, from the junction of the rivers to the last village, takes a long sweep, as the only bridge over the Juskur river is a mile or two out of the direct road. It is delightfully cold here, even at mid-day. Everything looks very wild and bare, and trees are nowhere visible. We shall be detained at this place to-morrow, as sup- plies have not been sufficiently collected yet, for the weary days of “‘ Ogjér” marching.
PUTSEO, on PURSOA, (Disreicr or Lanovt.) OoyaR ENCAMPMENT. 3rd July, 1850. Tuesday.—We have halted here ; it seems to me, that our “‘halts” are endless. We took a walk yesterday evening, and gathered several wild-flowers and peculiar fea- g 3
130 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
thery grasses. The yellow Potentilla grows among the rocks here, but I observed none of the crimson kind, (the ‘ Potentilla Sangunia.”) I gathered a very pretty moss by the bed of a river (name unknown), which flows into the Bhaga just below our encamping ground. The appearance of this spot, ‘ Putséo,” is savage toa degree; and many traces of some tremendous con- vulsion of nature are plainly visible, in the scat- tered rocks, and in the volcanic appearance of the ground altogether.
Between Goondla and Kardung, I forgot to mention a peculiar soil we passed over. The hill through which the road was there cut, was of limestone formation, and the path, only a foot ' wide, was constantly giving way under us. It was a service of danger putting one’s foot on soil of so peculiar a nature. This narrow footpath went along the face of a hill, which inclined (at a ter- rific angle) to the bed of the foaming Chindra beneath. Luckily, this path only lasted for a short distance, occurring at intervals of thirty or forty yards for a half-mile or so. _
CHANGNOO. 131
YUNNUMSCUTCHOO. (Disreicr or Lanovt.) OvER THE Bara Lacwa Pass.—Oosar ENcAMP- MENT.
Distance, fifteen miles.
4th July, 1850. Wednesday.—Too ill to write.
CHANGNOO. (Country or Lapak in THIBET.)
OosyaR ENCAMPMENT. Distance from Yunnumscitchoo, seventeen miles.
6th July, 1850. Friday.—I have been ill and completely knocked up for three days, and could not write. On the 4th, (Wednesday, ) we started at sunrise. We breakfasted about six miles from Putséo, passing an encamping ground called “ Tapkerchin” at four miles,—riding through a most desolate and dreary country. The ascent of the Bara Lacha Pass is not very steep, but the path is rugged and stony. A little above Tapker- chiin we crossed the Bhaga River by a Snow Bridge.* The road runs along the banks of the
* Snow falls so heavily and continuously in the Himalaya,
that it is very usual to find a natural bridge of snow spanning the most violent torrents. The depth of this snow varies
132 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
Bhaga, till it reaches a Lake near the top of the Pass, which is the principal source of the river. This lake is of a clear colour, and is said to be fathomless.
At the top of the Pass, I got into the dhoolie, and was carried down to Yinnumsciitchoo, about six miles or a little more. We had to traverse several snow-beds. From the top of the Pass, the River Lingtee flanked the road to the nght. We could see the summits of the S’piti Hills from the head of the Pass, gleaming cold and white in the distance. The weather had been lovely till noon,—‘ the storms were in bondage, and cloudless the skies ;”” however, about mid-day snow fell, but, fortunately for us, not, heavily.
I had been feeling pains in my limbs, and great lassitude, long before reaching the top of the Pass, but I made a violent effort not to give way to these sensations of illness, and managed to ride
from a few feet to perhaps fifty, and large caravans can safely pass over. These bridges are of course more permanent when the river beneath has free course, and I have frequently heard its roaring echoes far below, as I crossed on the snow above. When the waters have not an unimpeded current, they very soon cause deep fissures in the bridges, and then great care is requisite in crossing, especially after fresh falls of snow, which treacherously conceal the gaps. I have heard of these snow bridges being stationary for many consecutive years.
CHANGNOO. 133
as far as the summit. From the moment we descended, a terrible, racking head-ache came on. By the time I reached Yiinnumsciitchoo, I was suffering from overpowering nausea, and felt as if my head were splitting in two. The principal sensations were,—a throbbing inéense pain in the temples, extreme sickness, added to aching limbs and a most prostrating degree of lassitude. No one else in camp was ill, except Ghaussie, and he had merely a bad head-ache.
At night I fell asleep for an hour or two, and was awoke by my heart beating so tumultuously, that I became seriously alarmed. My pulse was galloping, my head throbbing and burning, and I was miserably sick. We did not march till late next morning, and had I not felt better, we could not have moved at all. Captain H— told me that he had had a bad head-ache all night, and was feeling ill and fatigued, but had not suf- fered nearly so much on this occasion as the last time he had crossed this Pass, when his sensations were exactly like mine.
This extraordinary attack on Passes of great elevation, is supposed by the natives to arise from what they call the ‘ Bischk-ke-Hawa,”* or
* <¢ Bischk,”’ or Bikh, is “‘ poison,” and ‘“‘ Hawa” signifies ‘‘wind,’’ so the expression is literally translated by, ‘‘ Wind of Posson.”
134 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
Poisonous Wind. They believe the wind becomes poisonous, by blowing over a certain plant of @ moss species, which grows abundantly on all high mountains in Tartary, and is found when all other vegetation ceases. From the summit of the Bara Lacha to Yonnumsciitchoo, I observed thou- sands of this plant. It has a very minute yellow flower, and there are several different species. A more scientific explanation of this peculiar illness, is to ascribe it to the great rarity of the air at these extreme elevations. The Bara Lacha is between sixteen and seventeen thousand feet above the level of the sea, according to Captain Cunningham, I believe.
When we reached the top of the Pass we were struck by the wildness of the scenery. White Peaks on every side; no sign of vegetation, but “‘few and far between” a stunted plant among the rocks. We saw a Glacier of considerable size, close to the spot where we _ breakfasted. This Glacier seems to have cleft through the hills opposite, for it appears at a wonderful dis- tance on the other side of the pass. It 1s use- less my attempting to explain this stupendous phenomena, because unless it has been seen, or the theory of Glaciers be thoroughly understood, it would be impossible to convey an adequate idea
CHANGNOO. 135
of the above fact to any one’s mind. I rode a Lahotli Ghoont the whole way up to the spot where I got into the dhooke.
A plant covered with a kind of wool grows be- tween the bare rocks, but no grass is to be seen. At Yiinnumsciitchoo there is a Lake, and a little grass about the encamping ground, but the whole scenery is drear in the extreme. This spot must be, I should say, about fourteen thousand feet high, at least.
It snowed in the afternoon, and there was a hard frost at night. In the morning early it was bitterly cold. The water boiled at a heat of nearly 30° Fahrenheit, below the boiling point (212°) at the level of the sea. The want of sufi- cient caloric in the boiling water at these great ele- vations, makes our tea very poor and tasteless stuff.
We breakfasted at Lingtee yesterday, five miles’ distance from Yinnumsciitchoo. This encamping ground is on a level plain, three miles in length. After a short descent from Yiinnumscitchoo, we reached the River Lingtee, which we crossed by a good ford, coming out on the plain above alluded to, where we halted for breakfast. At this spot, a Nullah*® forms the boundary between the countries of Lahoiil and Ladak.
* A “ Nuliah” isa sort of ravine, either full of water, or dry.
136 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
At eleven o’clock, a.m., we went on. I soon got into the dhoolie, for the sun was oppressively hot. I thought we should never reach this place. The Chuprassie* had gone twice the distance prescribed, and in consequence, the Coolies declare themselves knocked up; and very much against my will, I am forced to Halt in this desert to-day. Captain H— talks of going back now, as he has passed his own boundary. This country pertains to Goolab Singh, the Maha Rajaht of Kashmir.
I have put yesterday’s march as seventeen miles, but Captain H— declares it is at least five-and- twenty! There is, unfortunately, no way of settling the point.
My eye-lids and the skin of my face are per- fectly burnt by eight hours’ exposure to the scorching sun, and the excessive radiation of its rays from the soil over which we had to pass. And
* A ‘* Chuprasse”’ is a servant wearing a badge, or brass plate. These men are generally Government servants, and are always above menial work. They are principally taken from the highest castes of Hindoos, such as Brahmins and Rajpoots. The badge they wear on their breast ensures them immense respect from the natives. (Before explained.)
t “Maha Rajah” means the “ Great King.” It is a higher title than Rajah, and none of the Hill Sovereigns, but Gooléb Singh, are entitled to it.
{ From various proofs, subsequently adduced, I feel obliged to confess that perhaps, I ded under-estimate all the distances of our marches through Tartary.
CHANGNOO. 137
yet I had a crape veil and a chattah (or umbrella), besides the broad-brimmed travelling hat I wear. Plentiful applications of cold cream have failed to remove the tenderness of the skin which is con- sequent on the burning I experienced yesterday, and I am a frght. After passing Lingtee, plains below plains were traversed. We forded the river Churpha, or Churrup, and the adjaccnt plain would have been the proper encamping ground. There were a few ascents and descents between the plains, where the path was generally narrow and rugged. The river Lingtee flows below our present encamping ground at Changnoo. It is a guiet river, and has not the rushing sound of the Beads, the Chindra, or the Bhaga.
This country may well be called ‘ Oajdr,” or desert. A bleaker or more barren tract of land I never saw. The hills on every side rugged and bare; the plains dusty; and the only vegetation a coarse, yellow-flowered, stunted furze, yclept par excellence, the “Tartar Furze.” No snow 1s even anywhere visible now, to relieve the dull monotony of the sandstone and limestone hills, rising on all sides, dreary and inhospitable. I long to be out of this desolate land; hélas, hélas ! I am forced, bon-gré, mal-gré, to halt. Was ever any mortal so miserably contrariée ?”
138 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
There is no grass at all here; nothing for the ponies, ydks, sheep, and goats, but the prickly Furze I mentioned. The roots of this plant are used for firewood, a bush or tree being unknown luxuries in this part of the world. The heat of the sun even at these great heights, is fearful ; and to be exposed to it during the day, and then to be frozen at night, must be very trying to the con- stitution.
A dék (post) came in at Yunnumsciitchoo. I got three letters from W. , and one from Mr. ¥ , ‘on Service,” dated 1st April—more than three months old! As it is on urgent business, I ought to answer it at once; but Heaven knows if I can safely send a letter from this uncivilized land.
SOONDOO, OR SOONGNOO. (Country or Lapak.) QOosaR ENCAMPMENT.
Distance, seven or eight miles.
7th July, 1850. Saturday.—Arrived here at eleven o’clock, a.m. This is a short march of seven or eight miles. The first six miles consist of a steady ascent, and the last mile descends to this encamping ground. I rode nearly the whole
SOONGNOO. 139
way. The road is very tolerable, but rather nar- row, with some unpleasant khuds. It was snow- ing when we started, and the fresh-fallen drifts did not improve the path. We breakfasted about half-way, at an encamping-place called Devray. It was by that time clear and sunny.
I really never saw a bleaker scenery than this “‘ Oojér” presents. Barren hills, and bold pointed rocks, in unvarying sameness. No vege- tation but the stunted furze, and at great eleva- tions, the moss which is said to poison the wind. No living thing—nothing to relieve the dull monotony of the dreary prospect on every side. I felt as if I should be glad to see even the snowy peaks ; anything but these eternal, barren rocks of limestone or sandstone, the radiated and reflected glare from which is positively inj urious to the sight.
We saw three or four half-starved pigeons to- day, and they appeared to be vainly wandering about for something to eat. There isa little grass here, and on this scanty provender the miserable cattle belonging to our camp must contrive to exist. As we ascended to-day, I observed quan- tities of the poisonous moss, two or three species of which grew between the barren rocks. My head is aching terribly, and I dread a return of that overpowering “ Pass sickness,” or again being,
140 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
as the natives term it, ‘“‘bootee luggeea,” (or, Anglicé, “struck by the plant’).
We ascend the Long-Ilachee* Joth (or Pass) to-morrow, and descend it likewise, so I may make up my mind for a pleasant day of the “‘ Bootee” malady.
The road wound to-day, in a most eccentric manner round a hill. We have left the banks of the Lingtee river for the last five or six miles, and I do not know if the small stream just below our camp bears any name or not. The Ghoont I rode this morning, becoming proud and restive from yesterday’s halt, reared so much that I dismounted, and changed steeds with Ghaussie. In spite of my advice, that he should follow my example and change again for one of the baggage ponies, not far behind, he persisted in riding the one I had discarded, and consequently got a severe fall. He deserved it for his presumption, in supposing that he could do what my superior horsemanship had failed to accomplish, so I will not pity him.
I wrote and despatched four letters yesterday, for the Kangra post-office, but it is more than possible they may never reach. Captain H— has
* The literal meaning of this cognomen is ‘“‘ Cloves and Cardamume ;” I suppose from some imaginary resemblance ! a
i
ROKCHIN. 141
applied for leave, so I hope he will come on with me, at least to Léh.
The snow which fell thigmorning has all melted away now (two o'clock, p.m.) The Snowy Range is not visible here. The peaks surrounding Soondoo (or S6dngnoo) on all sides are pyramidal, and perfectly devoid of all vegetation, which argues their extreme height. However, not much snow lies on any of them. Captain H— attributes this last peculiarity to the proximity of the plains of Tartary, where the radiation and reflection is of singular power. I feel incompetent to form an opinion on this point, so I will not presume to offer any. The presence of that poisonous moss so near this place would also seem to prove that the height of this range is great, as that plant only grows at considerable elevations, from fifteen thousand feet upwards.
I plucked a solitary ‘‘ Aster” to-day.
ROKCHIN. (Disreicr or RoopsHoo, IN THE Country or Lapaxk.) Over THE Lonc-ILLACHEE JoTH, oR Pass. Oosan ENCAMPMENT.
Double march ; Distance, twenty-three miles. 8th July, 1850. Sunday.—Arrived at six
142 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
o’clock, p.m., very sick and weary; quite inca- pable of writing this evening.
9th July, 1850. Monday.—4 o’clock, p.m. Halted to-day, not only because the Lahoiil Coolies are here changed for the Rodpshoo-people, but because I am laid up, totally unable to rise, and two of my servants are also purra.* Captain H— tells me he had a bad head-ache during the night, but he has escaped the Boodee sickness. I am still feeling so ill I can hardly write.
We went over the Long-Illachee Pass yesterday. After Sdondoo there was only an ascent of a mile or so, a very good road, and no snow-beds to cross. It was bitterly cold, and the thermometer, long after sunrise, stood at 21° Fahrenheit. The Pass was totally devoid of vegetation, except a few specimens of the horrible moss. I am beginning to imbibe the native prejudice, and really dread the appearance of that plant. After leaving the Pass, and winding along above the bed of a stream which rises on or near the Joth, the road became very level on the whole. The path is rudely cut (a foot wide only) along the side of very peculiar limestone hills. The peaks all about the Long-Illachee Pass are conical or pyramidal,
* Prostrated by illness.
ROKCHIN. 143
and perfectly barren. Very little of even the coarse furze is met with for miles. We discovered the traces of marine shells in the rocks. They are perfectly distinct, and show that the sea once covered these hills. It is evident to any observing mind that they have been upheaved by volcanic convulsions.
About six or seven miles from Soondoo, we came to a small green spot, (after a short andrugged descent to the bed of the stream), called ‘‘ Tash- ung-Gashung.” This would have made a nice place for breakfasting at, but misled by “Tara Chund,” (a T’hdkoor* and our Interpreter), we made a for- midable march yesterday. After some three or four miles of stony ground, we reached a small Plain, called ‘“ Ping,” which being about ten miles from Soondoo, would have been our proper encamping place. Here we breakfasted, and after resting, proceeded to this place. Little did we know the long and weary march before us, of at least thirteen miles.
After a steep ascent of about a thousand feet,
* “Thakoor” is a high-caste Hindoo, of a religious order of the laity; they are always men of good birth and educa- tion.
144 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
we came on the extensive Plain of Kiangchoo,* five miles long, and (at the widest point) at least six miles broad. The water here has almost en- tirely dried up, otherwise it would be a good encamping ground; plenty of furze, and skirt- ing the hills to the right, quantities of grass. The height of this plain must be great, as that odious moss is found here.
We saw the horns of two kinds of wild sheep, lying on the ground; one of these was of enor- mous dimensions.
We observed four wild horses, but they were at a considerable distance. We looked at them through the telescope ; they were of a light colour and resembled mules. These wild horses are found all over the Tartar Plains, and especially about the Choomoreéree Lake, so we may meet with them again.
The sun was fearfully hot, and after Kiangchoo, we had several other Plains to traverse, but they were nearly destitute of vegetation, and totally de- void of water. We were eleven hours performing this march, and the baggage which started when we
* From two Thibetan words, Kidng, wild horse; and Ché6, water. The wild horses used to come here in herds to water, before the springs dried up, which christened the plain with its present name.
ROKCHIN. 145
did yesterday, did not arrive till near noon éo-day, so we have been very uncomfortable. Luckily, I sent most of my things on the previous day, and we actually overtook them before they reached this place, though we did not arrive till near sun- set. After reaching Piing, the hills quite change their character, and become undulating and less bold in appearance.
The Roopshoo people met us before we arrived at Rokchin, and they will now take the place of the Lahoilis. Most of the baggage is to go on Yaks. These animals are finer and larger than those in Lahoiil, and resemble the Sikhim species. I am told that I am to ride one now.
Rokchin 1s at or near the foot of the Tungling or Tunglung Pass; we have been obliged to goa little out of the way, as all the water has dried up in the usual encamping ground.
The ‘‘ Roopshoo People” live in tents. They have Chinese faces, and wear a different head- dress from the Lahoilis. I believe they consist of but forty-five families. |
The Lahoiil Chuprasste, “‘Munny Ram,” and the T’hakoor ‘“‘ Tara Chund,” accompany us to Léh. They act as our interpreters. The former is my especial aversion ; he is more like a disre- putable baboon than anything human! The
VOL. I. H
146 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
Lahoiili Coolies are shockingly lazy and good-for- nothing. Though very lightly laden, and going over perfectly level ground nearly the whole way, they only came up this morning. It has been most bitterly cold these last four nights. No amount of clothes can possibly keep me warm.
NEUPOONSUM. (Country or Lapak.) OoyaR ENCAMPMENT.
Distance, eleven or twelve miles.
10th July, 1850... Tuesday.—We arrived here at one o’clock, p.m., and had breakfast soon after. We passed Kaora-Tulao, or as the Tartars name the Lake, ‘‘ Choo” or “Tchoo Soowirrh,” * about a mile from Rokchin.
This lake is apparently about nine miles in cir- cumference, but the plain which surrounds it is far more extensive, and is impregnated with some deposit very like salt-petre. A similar substance lies five or six inches thick near the banks of the lake. The water is very salt, and the white appearance of the salt-petre has a very peculiar effect. When the wind rose, this white deposit
* In the Thibetan language, ‘‘Chos,” or “‘ Tehdo,” signi- fies “‘ water,’’ and ‘‘ Soowiirrh’’ means “bitter.”
NEUPOONSUM. 147
was raised like clouds of dust along the shores of the lake. This spot would make a singular pic- ture ;—a lake, and an extensive plain, surrounded on every side by hills capped with snow, and others bare and undulating.
Wild geese and wild ducks, of two kinds, swarm on this lake, also several smaller species of the feathered tribe. Captain H— shot three “ Brah- minee ducks,” * and a goose of some new species, a large and very handsome bird.
I got a very good pony to ride, so I have not yet tried what sort of steed a ydk would make. Two of my servants were mounted on these strange animals, and kept up very well indeed with us. They told me they got on famously ! The road has been very level to-day again, after the first ascent, and subsequent descent to the margin of the Salt Water Lake. I feel it hot in tents during the day, though we are surrounded by high hills, some capped with deep snow.
The glare from the ground is most trying, and my face and neck are terribly burnt, though I use every precaution I can think of. These Tartar deserts are certainly not very beautifying, what- ever else they may be. ,
* A very common bird all throughout the Plains of Hin- dostan.
H 2
148 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
The Tartars do not make good Coolies at all, and I suspect there will be serious damage done to the baggage by having so large a portion on yaks.
I do not feel the Boodtee sickness to-day, but the sun has made my head ache most painfully. The cold was very severe last night. An hour after sunrise the thermometer stood at 18° Fahrenheit! It is almost incredible, the heap of blankets and rezdis (or quilts) I vainly cover myself with at night, and the quantity of warm clothes and furs I wear besides, and still I shiver with cold. The country continues as barren as ever, but the hills are less savage in appearance. I have managed to collect several pretty little flowers even in this bleak desert.
The direct road to Léh, the capital of Ladak; would have been over the Tunglung Pass, but wishing to see the Choomorééree* lake we are making a détour of five marches.
* This lake owes its name to alegend. A goddess /‘‘ Mo’’) is said to have haunted this lake (‘‘Ch6o,”) and while flit- ting over it, used to call out incessantly ‘‘ Ree, Ree/’’ thence Chdd-mo-rée-ree!
NAGPOGOONDING. | 149
NAGPOGOON DING, OR NAGPOGOONJUN.* (Country oF Lapak.) Oosan ENCAMPMENT. Distance, seven miles.
11th July, 1850. Wednesday.—Arrrived here about ten o’clock, a.m. The road was a mere foot- path, narrow and stony, sometimes ascending, sometimes descending; but there were no very bad places, and I managed exceedingly well, riding one of Tara Chund’s ponies all the way. Captain H— stopped en route to breakfast, but I came on at once to my tent, being apprehensive of the sun. I found nothing ready, as that odious Chuprassie, ‘‘Munny Ram,” never, by any accident, thinks of obeying the orders he receives. Jam now waiting for breakfast ‘‘ like patience on a monument, smil- ing at grief.” My head aches violently, so all I am longing for is a cup of strong tea. (I wonder when I shall be so fortunate as to get it ?)
When I left my tent this morning, I found the stream which supplied us with water frozen hard. There was a good view of the lake from our last encampment, with its white shores glittering in
* The meaning of this name in Thibetan, is Black Mountain, “« Nagpo” being “Black,” and “ Goonding,” or “ Goonjun,” a «‘ Mountain.”
150 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
the sun. The surrounding granite mountains were either capped with snow, or bare as the desert plains. All this country belonged formerly to China, but now it is subject to the Ladak government. A few years ago it was seized by the Seikhs, though, judging from appearances, such a barren desert cannot be very valuable.*
In Lahoiil and Ladak I have seen numberless Manees, or sacred piles of stones. All the top stones of these Manees are elaborately written over, or rather engraved, with extracts from the religious books of these people, and this is done by their ‘“ Llamas,”’ or “‘ Lambas,” (the priests of the country). Pieces of cloth, all stamped over in the same way, and figures of animals cut in stone, cover these Maénees. We passed a very elaborate ‘‘ Pile” to day. It appeared to be a sort of boundary-mark; and the Tartars, who accom- panied us, worshipped the holy stones most de-
* The sequel will show how wrong it is to jump to conclu- sions rashly. After traversing the said “ barren district,’”’ I found it was far from an unfruitful country. It was rich in mines and other resources, and Goolab Singh found it highly profitable, deriving a good deal of revenue from various items. At first I thought the wandering tribes too heavily taxed, but considering the resources at their command, they are a hundred _ degrees better off than the majority of the Maha Rajah’s subjects.
’ NAGPOGOONDING. 151
voutly. Horns of different wild animals were laid on the heap, and some were carefully built in. The pieces of cloth tied to the flags and perched on the top of the piles of stones, were stamped with figures of animals and Thibetan re- ligious sentences. |
There appears very little water throughout this country. I passed only two streams, and the hills look arid and barren to the last degree.
The servants tell us that they saw many wild horses during yesterday’s march, and also an ani- mal resembling a hare, quite white in colour. Captain H— went out “‘geologizing,” and saw a herd of wild sheep; he also observed the traces of many other wild animals about the hills sur- rounding our yesterday’s camp.
The proper Tartar name of the Salt Water Lake I have described, is Cho6o—{or more correctly Tchoo)-Soowirrh: the first syllable meaning ‘‘ water,” the second, “‘bitter.”’ It 1s most absurd giving Hindostanee names to these places, such as calling the ‘“‘Tchds-Soowirrh,” the ‘“Kaora Tuléo,” bitter Lake. In this way imaccuracies creep into maps. Another name given to this Lake by the wandering tribes, is the ‘“‘ Pééma- kingjing.”” Here Lord Gifford shot a wild horse last year. |
152 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
This place must be very high, for even in a small Shoulddrie, (a kind of hill tent) it is quite cool; and moreover, I feel a worse head-ache than ‘usual, with a terrible feeling of oppression on the chest. Indeed, since crossing the Bara Liacha Range, I have suffered severely from the ex- treme rarity of the air; a perpetual head-ache, and (especially during the night) most painful oppression on the lungs, and distressing accelera- tion of the action of the heart. I have scarcely had an hour’s consecutive sleep; constantly sit- ting up in bed, alarmed by the impossibility of breathing in a recumbent position. These elevated regions do not agree with my lungs. I think the height of this place must be seventeen thousand feet above the level of the sea.
CHOOMOREEREE LAKE. (Country or Lapak.) Oosak ENCAMPMENT.
(The elevation above the level of the sea, according to measurement by the thermometer, is 14,794
feet. ) Distance, nine miles.
12th July, 1850. Thursday.—Arrived here about nine o’clock, a.m.—After half a mile of
CHOOMOREEREE LAKE. 153
ascent, the road descends to this lake. We rode the whole way, but the path is narrow and stony. Choomorééree must be more than two thousand feet lower than Nagpogoonding, our last encamping ground. By the thermometer water boils here at 186° Fahrenheit, a dif- ference of 26° from the level of the sea; so the height of this Lake must be about 14,794 feet, which is as exact as measurements by the thermo- meter can possibly be. Yesterday’s camp must have been at an elevation of fully seventeen thousand feet,—a painful height at which to pass a night.* I absolutely dread the nights now, for, instead of sleeping, I suffer most painfully. Yesterday, it was really very trying; besides a cruel head-ache, I had a feeling of suffocation about the chest, and my heart went at a railroad pace, if [ so much as moved an inch in bed.
The country we passed through to-day was bleak and barren as usual. Some of the neigh- bouring peaks were high, and white with perpe- tual snow. We soon came in sight of this Lake. It then looked so close, that we fancied it was but two or three miles distant. The view was most
* It is almost superfluous to observe, that at might the air is more rare, and the cold many, many degrees more intense than during the day.
H3
154 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
deceptive, and we found the march fully nine miles in length.
This Choomorééree is a magnificent Lake. It is impossible to state its exact or even approximate size with any degree of certainty, without making a circuit carefully, but I should say that its cir- cumference could not be under twenty or twenty-five miles.* The breadth of this extremity is propor- tionately small, as it does not appear to exceed four miles. The waters are clear and pellucid, and of a rich blue colour,—as blue as the cloudless skies above. The lake is surrounded by undulating barren hills, and many mountains of eternal snow. Opposite rise the white peaks of the Parung Range, cold and stern in the distance. From any eminence, the S’piti Hills are also to be observed afar off, looking icy white. On this side there are some barren and abrupt heights, and a long and wide sandy plain. The grass is nearly as scanty as all other kinds of vegetation, and it is coarse and bad besides.
We took a long walk this evening by the banks of the still Lake. We saw a few game birds,
* The following year I again visited the Choomorééree, and I took the trouble of riding entirely round it,—a feat never before accomplished by any traveller. For further authentic particulars, see Volume III., where the size &c., are fully given.
CHOOMOREEREE LAKE. 155
running familiarly along the ground, also a pair of Brahminee ducks, and a new species of gull. There seem to be but few birds on this lake, and no fish at all in it, I am told.
On the road yesterday, we passed a small lake to the left. Probably it was at one time con- nected with the Choomorééree, as there is a wide stream now running between the two, in some places dried up, however. The name of the little Lake is the “ Chunghur.”
There is a tradition among the people here, that the Choo-Soowirrh or Péémakingjing Lake was also formerly connected with this one. I can hardly understand this, as the waters of the two seem perfectly distinct in kind. This lake is clear, and though said to be brackish and unwholesome, we found it very pleasant to the taste, while the waters of the Pé€makingjing, on the contrary, are more bitter and salt than the sea, and leave a deposit closely resembling salt-petre all along the banks.
I can hear of no River rising in the Choo- moreéree Lake. Some authors mention the ‘‘ Para” as taking its source there ;* but these
* In Volume III., will be found a further account of this lake. So far from the “‘ Para” rssing sn the Choomorééree, I can confidently assert that it flows so it, ending its course in the bosom of the blue lake.
156 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
suggestions appear vague, and are evidently founded on insufficient testimony. It has several tributary streams, one or two of considerable size.
About a couple of miles further, the principal encampment of the wandering tribes is to be seen.* We are going there to-morrow morning before breakfast.
CHOOMOREEREE LAKE. (Roorsxoo Disraict; Country oF Lapak.) Ooyak ENCAMPMENT.
13th July, 1850. Friday—We went this morn- ing to the Tartar encampment at Koorzuk. We were four and a half hours absent, and were alto- gether much entertained. We took the road along the lake, and then winding through a valley, inland between high hills, we reached Kodérzuk. “ Tara Chund” met us there, and acted as our interpreter. The route by which we went to Koorzuk was three miles long, but we returned to our camp a shorter way over some high hills, and had a beautiful view of this magnificent mes from the top of the last hill.
The Tartar encampment is a most singular one. About four thousand sheep and goats belonging to the Tartars, and a large number, the property
* This is on the road hence to Simla.
CHOOMOREEREE LAKE. 157
of Gooléb Singh, are sent here to graze. Yaks are also pastured in large numbers on this plain. The black Tartar tents looked very picturesque in the distance, and the singularly dressed people added interest to the scene.
The Plain of Koorzuk is hemmed in by high mountains, some covered with perpetual snow. There is very little vegetation about Koorzuk, and the grass is neither abundant nor very luxuriant. It is astonishing how they manage to feed such extensive flocks, for two or three months in this plain, as they do. The people told us they had lost a thousand sheep and goats the last year, from some murrain.
We dismounted, and went inside one of the black tents. These are constructed in a simpl way, and appear all alike. They are made of black blankets of yaék-hair, very strong, fastened together about five and a half feet from the ground (at the highest point), by a few ropes and sticks. They are open about a foot along the centre of the top, and this opening 1s rudely laced with yék-hair ropes. Inside the tent we visited, we saw some young children lying on blankets. On the ground were stone and wooden bowls of milk, ghee,* whey, &c. Skin bags, apparently
* “‘Ghee”’ is clarified butter.
158 ADVENTURES OF A LADY.
filled with grain, lined the sides, and in front was a species of altar, on which were placed religious books. They told us, that though none of them could read or write, two or three times a month they were visited by one or more of their itinerant priests, who read these holy books to them. These poor and ignorant people actually evince a more genuine religious feeling than myriads of their civilized brethren.
The women wear petticoats of many colours, and throw a skin over their shoulders. They appear to have no head-dress beyond some queer-looking ornaments. They seemed alarmed at our presence, and ran away like lightning. The men, on the contrary, crowded round, and gazed at us with great curiosity.
The women were milking their large flocks of goats when we arrived, and this is a singular pro- cess with them. They place two long rows of goats, hundreds at a time, face to face, allowing their necks to interlace. The little docile creatures stand quite still, while the women go behind each row and expeditiously milk the whole number, in almost less time than it has taken me to de- seribe it.
The head-man brought us some excellent milk, and a paper full of dried apricots and sugar. The
CHOOMOREEREE LAKE. 159
latter they insisted on stuffing into my saddle- pocket, much tomy amusement. There were num- bers of genuine shawl-goats at Koorzuk, and very pretty animals they are. The kids are such dear little pets tuo! I hear they only live at great heights, otherwise [ should have purchased some. I have ordered a new suit of the harlequin clothes worn by the Tartar women, and I hope to see it in camp this evening. We passed several ‘‘ Manees,” (unadorned with flags however, ) and I mean to take one of the inscribed stones away and keep it as a “‘ Nishaén” (remembrance) of the Choomorééree lake. Captain H— amused him- self at Koorzuk this morning by catching odd-