GUIPURE D'AET, l?./2"^







1879. v

Entered at Stationers' Hall.] [The right of Translation is reserved. t





This work, which is of very remote origin, although at present revived under the name of Guipure d'Art or Cluny Lace, is formed by first making a foundation of Netting, and afterwards filling in the Meshes of the Network with various stitches formed in geometrical designs. The plain stitch of Netting is not here described, as no one quite unacquainted with it would be inclined to undertake this part of the work, although it is quite possible to do without making the Netting, as the Squares can be purchased ready for working at a trifling expense.

The ornamental stitches used in Guipure d'Art, like all others I have found in Ancient Lace, consist of a variation of the one we are now accustomed to call Overcast, Buttonhole, or Bruxelles stitch and these stitches for embroideiing Netting having been enlarged so as to convey an accurate idea of the manner in which they are formed, but little further explanation will, I trust, be required to enable any lady at once to commence the work. I have therefore selected a small Square of Netting, on which some of the simplest stitches are shown in progress of working, and at page 6 shall describe how this is to be accomplished, including General Rules for any patterns.

As the elaborate designs in which this work is generally executed are sometimes found rather tedious and minute by the novice, I have arranged some simple patterns which can be worked rather coarse and yet look effective. The method of attaching the Squares, &c, together will also be found a useful feature in this little book.


The accompanying engraving shows a Square of only seven stitches but the rule given will be sufficient for any size. Commence by filling the Netting Needle ; tie the end of cotton to a foundation string, and with the Mesh net one plain stitch; take out the Mesh and turn back. To increase, net 2 stitches both in this one stitch ; take

out the Mesh and turn back. Net a stitch plain ; then net 2 stitches, both in the

2nd stitch ; turn back. Net 2 plain; then increase as before in the last stitcn. Net 4 rows more the same as the last, that is, until it is increased to 8 stitches, wnich is one more than the Square is to be when finished. This rule is always to be observed in all Squares; "thus," if the Square is to be 12 stitches, increase until there are 13 loops ; if 25 stitches, which is a very general size for large Squares, then it should be increased to 26 stitches. Aiter the required number of stitches are increased always net a row quite plain. Then to Decrease the square, net the row plain to the last two stitches ; then net them together as one stitch. Repeat decreasing at the end of each row, until it is reduced to two stitches, then net them together without the Mesh, so that it may be a smaller stitch ; fasten off ; draw the end left at the beginning tight and fasten it

™"~ 1

Netted Squares may also be made by commencing in the centre, counting from one angle to the opposite one, and Netting a plain row with a Mesh a full size smaller than the rest of the work. After the first row, one stitch is to be left unworked until it is reduced to a stitch. The work is now to be turned so as to net on the first row, and the decreasing made the same as the other side.


The rule for making a piece of work longer than it is wide, is simply to commence as the Square and increase the same until the number of stitches are increased to two more than the number

f: •i


■4— 4—4-4-


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±.—- ;„....;

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required for the Insertion ; then net two stitches together at the ond of one row, and at the end of the next row work two stitches in the last stitch. Repeat these two rows alternately until the required length is made, and then net two stitches at the end of every row until all are reduced.



Materials— Waiter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburgk Linen Thread No. 6 ; Walker's Steel Mesh No. 10 ; a Small Netting Needle and a Small Wire Frame ; Walker's Elliptic Needle No. 5.

The Netted Square.

Commence by Netting one stitch as directed at page 4, and increase it each row until there are 13 stitches ; then net one row plain, and decrease the Square to one stitch. It should washed, stiffened, and pinned out square until dry. Sew it into the frame, as shown at pago 11, and proceed to work the stitches.

The patterns are usually commenced in the centre, and the one we are copying is begun at the knot of the Netting in the middle of the square.

Make the twisted thread which springs from the centre at an angle over two Squares of th9 Net, by taking the thread across and twisting it back again to the centre ; this is done four times. Then work round and round these threads, over one and under the other four or five times, which forms the Rosette. Take a single thread for the Diamond round the Rosette, securing it to the Netting with an overcast stitch.

The small Vandykes are in Point de Bruxelles, and consist of overcast stitches, backwards and forwards, working one less each row until it is reduced to a single stitch.

The Ovals should then be made, taking the thread over two netted stitches for the large Ovals, and over one stitch for the smaller ones. In the Pattern they are left unfinished, the better to show the mode of working. Point de Toile is now to be worked all round.

The Corners. Commence by working Point de Reprise in a square of the net, and repeat the same in the squares* marked a on each side the centre one.


1 st Detail of Rosette over one Netted Stitch.

2nd Detail.

Square of Guipure D'Art in process of Working

Point de Bruxelles.

Large Rosette on lour Netted Stitches.

Point D'Esprit,

Point d'Esprit is then to be worked on the outer squares of net, and in all the spaces of the lower row not already filled. The Point d'Esprit is formed by first working loose overcast stitches in each square of the netting, keeping them in the centre. When the row is made, or as many stitches as are required in the pattern, the work must be turned, and an overcast stitch made at the side of the net as shown at the end of the section ; then work another stitch on the opposite side of the net ; keep the last open stitch under the needle, and pass the needle under the upright thread of the netting, so as to hold the open stitch in its place ; then work an overcast stitch on the net as before. This finishes the Square, and if several are joined together they can be made into any article required.

Maltese Star.

The centre engraving shows a Star of eight Divisions, six of which are completed, and the seventh in progress; the threads are therefore left loosely to show how they are interlaced, but in working they would only form the first two folds.

Each division is commenced by working an overcast stitch on the upright threads of the netting, and then interlacing it in the horizontal thread of the netting, it will be seen that one side of the Divisions is larger than the other, and this is formed by always working two stitches on the longest side. The Divisions of the Stars are often used in various forms according to the pattern in which they are introduced.

Point de Cordon is formed of twisted threads, first making a foundation for them, as Fig. 1.

The groundwork of Trellis Point or Rosettes is sometimes used instead of Point d'Esprit.

Point de Cordon.— Fig. 1


Maltese Star.

Point de Cordon. Fig. 2.


Groundwork of Trellis Point.

Point Tire.

Groundwork of Rosettes.



Materials— Walter Evans Sf Co.'s Mecklenburgh Linen Thread Nos. 6 and 8, a Steel Mesh No. 10 Bf 11 Gauge, Elliptic Needles No. 6, and a Wire Frame seven inches square.

The Netting.

Work with No. 6 thread and commence with one stitch ; work as directed at page 4, until it is

26 stitches then net a row plain and decrease to one stitch. Frame the work.

The Embroidery.

Use No. 8 thread and commence by working a small Rosette in the centre square of the netting,

then work the four squares of close Point de Bruxelles as shown in the enlarged section. A

leaf of Raised Maltese Point is now to be worked between each of these squares.

Close Bruxelles Point. Maltese Point.

The Maltese Point is given in the section, and the method of working it is also shown in the upper part of the Square, the needle being left in the work. Two or three threads are first carried perpendicularly and afterwards interlaced. The other squares of close Point de Bruxelles should now be worked, then the Maltese Stars, and the Border of Point de Toile ; the ground- work is filled with Point d'Esprit, and lastly the long leaves and stems of Maltese Point aro worked as before described.


© H




Materials For large articles use Walter Evans Sf Co.'s 12-thread Crochet Cotton and Mesh No. 5 Bell Gauge; or finer, use Walter Evans's Knitting Cotton No. 10 and Mesh No. 8.

Materials For fine articles use Walter Evans Sf Co.'s Boar's-head Crochet Cotton No. 12 Jo? the Netting, and Evans's Embroidery Cotton No. 4 for the Pattern. Walker's Steel Netting Needle and a Mesh No. 10 Bell Gauge ; also Walker's Elliptic Needle No. 5.

The novelty of this Design consists in its being worked in separate Stripes, which are afterwards joined together. It is so arranged that it may be made to any required length or width, and is therefore especially suited for Curtains, Couvrepieds, and other large articles which become rather heavy and tedious when made all in one piece.

In working the Stripes of Netting which form the Diamonds, a long stitch is worked at each side, and, when the joining is made, 12 of these loops are drawn together to form the Circles.

The Diamond Stripe.

Fill the needle with the cotton and commence on a foundation of 9 stitches. This Stripe is commenced in the half of a Diamond, the other side being worked when the length is made The 1st row should be netted with a mesh a full size smaller than the rest of the work.

1 st row Tie on the end of the thread to the first stitch of the foundation ; or if preferred it may be worked on a loop of thread Net 8 stitches quite plain with the smaller mesh ; then use the other mesh, and with it net 3 rows quite plain ; each row being 8 stitches.



5th row— Make a long stitch "thus" Turn tho thread threo timea round the mesh, and net as usual the 1st stitch of the row ; when tho mesh is withdrawn this forms a loop three times the size of the others. Net 6 stitches plain as usual and turn hack, leaving 1 stitch unworked.

*6th row Make a long stitch as before. Net 5 stitches plain and turn back, leaving the long loop.

7th row Make a long stitch as before. Net 4 stitches and turn back, leaving the 1st long loop.

8th row— Make a long stitch. Net 3 stitches ; turn back, leaving the long loops.

9th row Make a long stitch as before. Net 2 stitches and turn back. The Diamond is now sufficiently decreased.

10th row Make a long stitch as before; then to increase a stitch net a plain stitch, putting the needle again into the 1st stitch, so that both this stitch and the long one are worked in the 1st stitch of the row. Net the next stitch plain, and then increase again by working another plain stitch in the same stitch as the last ; turn back, still leaving the long stitch.

11th row Make a long stitch; then increase by netting a plain stitch in the same stitch, that is, both in the last increased stitch. Net the next 2 stitches plain, and then increase in the last of them ; turn back, still leaving the long stitch.

12th row Make a long stitch and increase as before. Net 3 plain and increase in the last of them ; turn back, leaving the long stitch.

13th row— Make a long stitch, and increase as before. Net 4 plain ; increase in the last.

14th row Make a long stitch and increase. Net 5 plain, and increase in the last.

15th row Make a long stitch and increase. Net 6 plain ; increase in the last.

16th row Make a long stitch and increase. Net 7 plain, increase in the last. Thero snould now be six long loops at each side.

17th row Net the 1st stitch of the row without the mesh, so that it may be only half the size of the plain stitch ; then net the 8 following stitches plain ; turn back.

18th row Net the 1st stitch without the mesh ; then net the 7 following stitches plain.


19th row— Make a long stitch as before, netting the 1st stitch. Not 6 plain and turn back.

Repeat from * at the 6th row, and continue the same until the length is made. In working the last diamond it should be ended as 18th row, and to finish it work a row of 7 plain, then 6 rows plain, leaving a stitch at the end of each. To finish the other end turn the stripe so as to work on the first row of it, and net 7 rows plain, leaving a stitch at the end of each.

All the Stripes are worked th6 same, except the two which aie intended for the outside, and in working these the long loops on one side should be omitted, and the ordinary stitch worked instead. When made they should be washed, stiffened, and pinned out until dry.

The Embroidery of the stripes can be worked on the hand, or if preferred the netting may be tacked on a piece of oilcloth, and a part worked at a time.

The Circles

Commence with the cotton and sewing needle, place two of the Stripes side by side and draw six loops of each together, sewing them firmly in the centre ; then work round and round the centre, passing the needle round one of the threads and under the next as in stitching, until it is half an inch in diameter ; then make the 8 divisions, working up three of the threads in Maltese Point, and when these are finished sew up one of the threads two or three times, and then attach the first and last threads of each division together, sewing up and down the threads to pass from one to the other.

The Embroidery.

The Small Spots which form the edge of the Diamonds are worKed in the ordinary darning stitch, and between these spots the edge of the netting is to be overcast, working about six stitches to each square of the Net. The centre stitches of each diamond must be overcast together.

The Centres of the Diamonds are worked as the Rosettes and Maltese Star (see Instnictions).



Materials For Handkerchiefs, Cuffs, Collarettes, &c, use Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburgh Linen Thread No. 8 or 10 ; a Steel Mesh No. 15 Bell Gauge ; Walker's Netting Needle ; and Elliptic Needle No. 7.

For Coarser Trimmings use Linen Thread No. 6, Mesh No. 11.

For Furniture Lace use for the Netting Boar's-head Cotton No. 12, and Mesh No. 8, with Evans's Embroidery Cotton No. 4tfor the Pattern.

The Netting.

For this Border the netting is worked the short way and consists of 8 squares, four of them forming the Vandyke, and the other four the Heading.

Commence by netting one stitch ; withdraw the mesh ; turn back so as to reverse the work, and net 2 stitches, both in the first stitch ; turn back. Net 1 plain, then 2 stitches, both in the Becond stitch ; turn back. Net 2 stitches plain, then 2 stitches in the 3rd stitch. The rows which form the Vandyke are now to be worked, and it is to be increased only at one side.

1 st row Net the 4 stitches plain ; turn back.

2nd row Net 3 plain, and 2 stitches both in the 4th stitch. 3rd row Net all the 5 stitches plain.

4th row Net 4 plain, then 2 stitches in the 5th stitch.

*oth row Net 6 plain.

6th row Net 5 plain, then 2 in the last stitch. 7th row Net 7 plain.

8th row Net 6 plain, then 2 in the last stitch. 9th row Net 8 plain.

10th row Net 7 plain, then 2 in the last stitch.

11th row— Net 5 plain and turn back, leaving the other 4 to form one side of the Vandyke


12th row Net 4 plain, then 2 in the last stitch. Repeat from * at the 5th row until the length is

made. To finish the last Vandyke so that the net may be straight at the edge, it will be necessary to

work only to the end of the 7th row ; then net 5 stitches, and work the 2 last together as one


a Da

stitch. Net 6 plain ; turn back. Net 4 plain and take 2 stitches together. The netting should be washed, stiffened, and pinned out, so that each Mesh of the Netting is quite square. The Embroidery. The Netting may either be tacked in a small frame or on a strip of oilcloth to keep it firm ; the edge of the Vandykes are to be Overcast, and all the various stitches are fully explained in the instructions.



Materials-For a fine size use Walter Evans fr Co.'s Mecklenburgh Linen Thread No. 6 or 8 Steel

Mesh No. 10 Bell Gauge. For a medium size use Linen Thread No. 2 and Mesh No. 7, or if wished still coarser use Walter

Evans's Boards-head Cotton No. 4 and Mesh No. 6 for the Netting, with Evans's Embroidery

Cotton No. 4 for the Pattern.

This design is especially intended to show a new method hy which any Squares or Stripes can be joined together. The Netted Squares are described at page 6, making as many as will be required for the size; they should then be embroidered and the pattern being very simple can easily be copied from the engraving, as all the stitches used are fully explained in the Instructions.

Tub Joining iNSEKXiON.-Fill the Netting Needle, and if the Squares are fine, work with a mesh No. 4, but for the coarser cotton use a flat mesh half an inch wide.

Run a string along the sides of the square, so as to work on the four selvedges. Tie the thread in a 3orner stitch, and net a plain round, working one stitch in each stitch of the square, except at the corners, when 4 stitches are all to be netted in the one sritch. If the square is made with an uneven number of stitches, net only three stitches at each corner. Work all the squares the same, leaving an end of cotton at each. Thread an elliptic Needle with the end of thread left, and sew over the first netted stitch three times, so as to bring the thread to the centre of it. Place the Squares side by side, and putting the needle into the first two stitches of each, sew them firmly together, and make a Rosette, then twist the thread in the netted stitch,' securing it to the selvedge ; repeat. The netted stitches of the opposite square should also be sewed over to correspond. At each corner two of the edge stitches are to be left unjoined, as shewn at the left corner of the engraving. To form the Cross these eight stitches are drawn together, and then interlaced as in the Maltese Point. The thinner bars are made with two twisted threads interlaced. The selvedge of the squares is to be overcast.





Materials Walter Evans Sf Co.'s Knitting Cotton No. 10, Walker's Meshes Nos. 10 and 12 Bell Gauge ; also a flat Mesh three quarters of an inch in width, and another three-eighths of an inch ; a large. Steel Netting Needle, and Walker's Tapestry Needles No. 20.

The Foundation for a Curtain four yards in length should be 500 stitches, that is 42 for each foot. Commence by netting 4 rows quite plain with No. 10 mesh.

The Open Stripe. 1st row Use the large flat mesh and net all the stitches plain. 2nd row Use the small flat mesh and net every two stitches together to tho end. 3rd row With the same mesh, net all plain. 4th row— Use the large mesh, net 2 stitches in every stitch of the last row.

Stripe of Diamond Netting. Work with No. 12 mesh and net 4 rows plain before commencing the pattern. 1st row Net 1 stitch plain, then turn the cotton round the mesh and net the next stitch; thi»

will make a long loop when the mesh is withdrawn ; continue the long stitch and the plain one

alternately to the end of the row. 2nd row Net all the stitches plain. The stitches of the last row will appear uneven. 3rd row Turn the thread round the mesh and net a stitch, then net the next stitch plain

continue alternately to the end. 4th row Net all plain. Repeat these 4 rows five times more, then work 3 rows plain. Repeat the Open Stripe. The Embroidered Strtpe.— Work with No. ] 0 mesh and net 39 rows quite plain, which forms the

groundwork for one of the Sections, the two designs given at page 23 being worked alternately ;

repeat the Open Strdpe, &c., ending with Vandyke edging.




Materials— Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's-heaa Cotton No. % for the Netting, and Knitting Cotton No. 10 for the Pattern; if preferred it can all be worked with Evans's Knitting Cotton No. 10. A steel Mesh No. 12 Bell Gauge; a flat Mesh half an inch wide.

Commence on a foundation of 110 stitches for an ordinary size, and working with No. 12 Mesh

net 4 rows quite plain. Work the Open Stripe as directed for the Curtains, using only one flat mesh. Then net the 39 rows plain for the first Embroidered Stripe. Repeat the Open Stripe. Then net 39 rows plain for the second Embroidered Stripe.

Work the Open Stripe and the first Embroidered Stripe again, ending with the Open Stripe. The Vandyke Edging should be used to finish the four sides, working 4 rows for the Heading

on the antimacassar instead of a separate foundation. At the corners the stitches should be

increased so that the Vandykes may lie flat.


Materials Walter Evans and Co.'* Boards-head Cotton No. 18 for the Netting, and Walter Evans's Embroidery Cotton No. 4 for the Pattern; Steel Netting Needle; Walker's Stee* Meshes Nos. 16 and 20 Bell Gauge ; aflat Mesh a quarter of an inch wide.

Commence on a foundation of 48 stitches, and with No. 16 Mesh, net a plain row , then net the

1st stitch to make it round; net 19 rounds more plain. 21st round— With the flat Mesh miss 1 stitch and then net 4 stitches, all in the next stitch

Repeat all round.




22nd and 23rd rounds— With No. 20 Mesh net all the stitches; work the two following rounds with the same

24th round— Turn the cotton once round the Mesh, miss one stitch, net a plain stitch in the next stitch ; then net a plain stitch in the next stitch. Repeat all round. This will form a long and short stitch alternately. 25th round— Turn the cotton

twice round the

Mesh, and, missing

tho long stitch, net

the short stitch. Re- peat all round and

fasten off. To form

the top of the Tassel,

run a string in the

last round so as to

work on tho 1st

round; join onto the cotton; andfor the 1st round- With No. 16 Mesh net every two stitches of the 1st round together 25 times. Net 15 rounds plain. 17th round-Net every two stitches together 12 times. Net three rounds all plain.

21st round— With the flat Mesh net 3 stitches in each stitch of the last round. 22nd and 23rd rounds— No. 20 Mesh-all plain.

24th round Turn the cotton round the Mesh, miss 1 stitch, and net 1 plain in the next stitch. Repeat all round and fasten off. Embroider the Pattern as usual.



Work with a Mesh No. 10 and the same cotton as the article it is intended to edge.

Commence on a foundation of the length required. Each Vandyke will require 18 stitches. Net

4 rows all plain, to form the heading for the Vandyke. Work the Open Stripe, page 20, then

4 rows plain.

1st Vandyke. —1st row— Net 17 stitches plain and turn back.

2nd row Net the 17 stitches ; turn back.

3rd row Net 16 plain and turn back, leaving one stitch unworked.

Repeat the last row, netting one stitch less each time until it is reduced to one stitch ; cut off the

thread, leaving an end. All the ends should be run into the Embroidery when it is worked. To commence the 2nd Vandyke, tie the cotton into the 18th stitch of the last row of the Heading,

counting from the 1st Vandyke ; and for the 1st row net the 17 stitches. &c, and repeat. In commencing the next Vandyke the cotton should be joined to the end left at the 2nd Vandyke The Embroidered pattern is simply darned on a square of the Netting.



(Frontispiece.) ANTIMACASSAR. CUSHION, COUVREPIED, &c. Materials For small articles use Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburgh Linen Thread Nos. 4 ana 8 * Meshes Nos. 8 and 12 Bell Gauge ; also a flat Mesh half-an-inch in width, a Steel Netting Needle, and Walker's Elliptic Needle No. 5

For Couvrepieds, Toilets, or coarse Antimacassars use Linen Thread No. 1, or if cotton is preferred use Boar's-head No. 4 for the Netting, and Evans's Embroidery Cotton No. 4 for the Pattern; Meshes Nos. 6 and 9 Bell Gauge.

The Netted Square.

Work with Nos. 6 or 8 mesh and No. 4 thread, net as directed at page 4, but increasing until there are 14 stitches, then net a row plain and decrease to one stitch.

The Embroidery. The thick white lines are formed by running the outline with the Mecklen- burgh thread No. 4, then overcasting it, working 6 or 7 stitches to each netted stitch. Use No. 8 thread for the Maltese Star in the centre. The four Diamonds are of Point de Bruxelles, and the groundwork filled in Point d'Esprit ; the edge of the Square is overcast, making a French knot to each netted stitch.

The Octagon Star

Fill the needle and work with the smaller of the two Meshes.

1st round— Commence on a loop of thread for the foundation. Net 8 stitches plain, then with- draw the Mesh, all but the last stitch, and to form the Circle, net the 1st stitch of the 8 plain.

2nd round— Net the 8 stitches of the 1st round.





3rd round-Work with the flat Mesh and net 5 stitches in every stitch of the 2nd round, in all 8 times.

4th round— Work with the same Mesh as the 1st round, and net 41 plain.

For the PoiNTS-lst row-Net 5 plain on the last round; withdraw the Mesh and turn back,

so as to work on the last 5 stitches. 2nd row-Decrease a stitch by netting the 1st stitch without the Mesh, keeping the knot in the

centre, so that it is half the size of the other stitches ; with the Mesh net 4 plain and turn back. 3rd row— Decrease a stitch as before. Net 3 plain and turn back. 4th row— Decrease a stitch. Net 2 plain and turn back, fith row-Decrease a stitch and net 1 plain which finishes the Point, and to bring the thread even

with the 4th round, net a stitch without the mesh in each of the four spaces down the side of

the Points, taking care that they do not contract it. The last of these stitches should be on the

double thread, formed by the decreased stitch of the 2nd row. Repeat from the 1st row of the Point, netting the 5 stitches on the 4th round, and continue the

same until 8 Points are worked. This Star should be framed and the Pattern Embroidered as

the accompanying Section.

The Border. Commence with a mesh No. 15, on a foundation of sufficient length for one side of the article to

be edged, allowing 7 stitches for each Vandyke : it will require two Vandykes to each pattern

of the centre. Net a row plain, then with the same mesh as the net 3 rows plain.

To form the Points, net 7 stitches ; turn back and work on these stitches ; net a stitch without

the mesh as in the Octagon Star; net 6 plain, turn back; decrease, net 5 plain, turn back;

decrease, net 4 plain ; repeat from the 3rd row of the Star working 5 stitches down the

side of the vandyke and 7 plain to commence the next vandyke. Embroider these Vandykes,

and overcasting the straight edge, sew it to the centre.


THE CULTIVATION OF THE GF ACES through the medium of the Toilette is an object deserving important consideration ; of this but few are really insensible, as is evinced in the aUention ubvoieu to sustaining the unrivalled attractions which adorn our drawing-rooms, whether in the splendid assemblages of rank incident to the immediate presenceof Royalty, or in the no less fascinating displays which form the great charm of private circles. These cursory remarks are peculiarly applicable to the universally ac- knowledged virtues of



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A balmy, odoriferous, creamy liquid, as equally celebrated for safety in application as unequalled for Its rare and inestimable qualities. The radient bloom it imparts to the cheek, the softness and delicacy which it induces of the hands and arms, its capability of soothing irritation, and removing cutaneous defects, discolourations, and all unsightly appearances, render it Indispensable to every Toilette. Price 4s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per bottle.

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Superior Six Cord Crochet Cotton, on Spools and in Skeins, for Sewing, Knitting, and Crochet, which is especially recommended for all " first class Crochet Work ;" also for Guipure D'Art and Point Lace.

Maltese Thread, in Balls, White, Black, and Colors.

Superior Six Cord Sewings, on Spools, soft finish, for Sewing Machines, &c.

Tatting Cotton, on Spools.

Patent Glace Thread, in White, Black, and Colors, on Spools and Cards.

Two and Three Cord Sewings, on Spools, soft finish.

Sewings in Balls.

Embroidering, Knitting, Mending, Cotton Cords, and Small Cords.

1862. 1867. 1873.

London Exhibition Prize Medal, Awarded "for very Strong & Paris Universal Exhibition Vienna First Class

most superior Thread." Gold Medal. Medal "for Progress."

Manufacturer to the Queen, of Needles, Pins, Fish Hooks, Hooks and Eyes, Hair Pins,

Thimbles, fyc. Warehouse— 47, GRESHAM STREET, LONDON, KO. Manufactory— ALCESTER.

H. Walker's Needles have long enjoyed great popularity with those who value really good Needles. They have been greatly altered by Patented Improvements of a most important character.

H. Walker's Patent Penelope Crochets have had so many imita- tions, it is necessary to repeat the inquest that all who wish for the true Needle will see that the word "Pene- lope" is on the handle.

The new Patent Uncotopic Handles to the Penelope Needles have the word " Uncotopic" on each, and persons who would avoid disappointment will please to observe these trade marks. The Uncotopic Handle keeps the Needle at all times in the true position for work, and is invaluable alike to a beginner, or to an accomplished worker.

A. B C.

Fig. L

S^ Fig. 2.

The following is from " The Engineer," of May 4, 1859 :— " Difficult as it may appear to entirely change the structure of so small an article, the figures above show what may be done even with the eye of a Needle.

"Fig. 1. A. is a ridge or slightly raised part before the eye ; B, the eye ; C, a groove beyond the eye into which the thread falls.

" Fig. 2 is a side view of the part A,B,0, showing the threadrecessed as iu sewing, when the usual pressure of the thimble drives the Needle with its thread at once through the cloth, afford- ing relief of no ordinary charac- ter to the tailor or seampstress, and saving much of their time We have submitted these Needles to a good judge of such articles, who has declared them superior to all others, not only as above stated, but particularly also with relation to facility of threading."

Bell Gauge. To insure correctness in the size of the Needles used in Mile. Biego's publications, a drawing of the Gauge by which they are numbered, is now given. All Knitting and Netting Needles are measured in the circle close to the numbers. Tricot Needles the same, gauging by the stem.

ttabiefoork <&staMisjmt£nt,

43, £m%mptott Jiofo, WBL&


One Shilling each.

Instruction Tatting Book. Exhibition Tatting Book. Royal Tatting Book. Lace Tatting Book. Etoile TattiDg Book. Pearl Tatting Book. Raised Tatting Book. Complete Tatting Book.


s. d.

Simple Tatting Book ... 0 6

Tatting Edgings 0 6

Useful Knitting Book ... 1 0

Winter Book for 1862 ... 1 0

" Melange de Laine " ... 1 0

"A New Wool Book'... 1 0

Shortway Edgings ... 1 0

Simple Edgings 0 6


s. d.

La Mode Winter 0 6

Book of Siberian Wool... 0 6

Child's Winter Knitting 0 6

Abergeldie Winter Book 1 0

10th, 15th, & 17th Series 1 6

Point Lace Instructor ...10 6

Royal Point Lace ditto... 3 6

Emblem Antimacassars 1 0

Price Is. each.




This Lace was originally designed for H.I.H. the Crown Princess of Germany, and as it obtained a Certificate in the Fine Arts of the International Exhibition, Mlle. Riego has arranged the design for a set of Lace suited to the present fashion, viz.






One Shilling each. Point Lace Sampler. Andalusian Knitting. Coloured Antimacassars. 18th Series Crochet Book. 2nd, 5th, and 6th Series. 7th, 14th, and 16th Series. Guipure Netting Book. Point and Sequin Lace. Emblem Crochet Book.

Price 6d. each.


KidT The varifus8 SSSaSS^, Coloured Enamel Cloth, a material which Mlie. Riego has just invented as a cheap substitute for

£Us£ K^5i^£KS£25 SS^S8 sid*' I1,ustrations of the sti*hes are *iven' ™th f u11

Sent on receipt of Stamps and one extra for postage.

JHile. fttep's #em designs m ©weft, Italian, an* ftoman $cmt Hace.

APPhRobe? V^rkntZ6^ ^faSSls' flandkerchiefs, Head-Dresses, Altars, Albs, Chalice Veils, Flounces, Dress Trimmings, Baby'B

Robes, Frocks, Square Bodies, Banners, Brackets, Sachets, and every other article manufactured in Black or White lice. All Mlle. Biego de la Branchardiere's Registered and Copyright Designs are signed with her Surname in full.