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EDINBURGH AND LEITH,

WITH THEIR ENVIRONS,

INGHJDIKa THE PARISHES AND VILLAGEg OF GEANTON, RE3TALRIG. BTOCKERIDGE, NEW^AVEN, GORGIE,

AND MURRATFIBLD.

EDrN^ORGH, the beautiful metropolis of Scotlancl, occupies a site in the northern part of tlie lounty of Kdinburgh, or Mid- lothian, remarkable for its romantic iuequalitieg, its ricii hia- torical reminiscences, and the beauty of its arcliitectural features, within two miles from the south shore of the triih of Forth; in lat. 55 deg. 57 mio. 23 see. n., and longitude 3 deg. 10 min. 30 sec. w ; distant from London 393 miles (by rad 437), 91 from Carl sle (110 by rail), 55 from Berwick-upon-Tweed (57^ by rail), nearly 44 from Glasgow (47^ by rail), 4 > from Dundee (by rail 66), 109 from Aberdeen, 341 from Inverness, by Aberdeen, and 191 from Inverness by Perth.

ORIGIN, NAME, AND BRIEF NOTICE OP EVENTS CONNECTED WITH THE CITY.

The origin of Edinburgh, as of many other towns of high anti- quity, is shrouded in grt at obscurity. There can be little doubt, however, tbat the town grew up around the lofty castle rock, u fortress almost impregnable before tlie introductiofi of gunpowder, and which rises abruptly with precipitous sides on the north, west, and south, sloping eastward into a ridge, steep both on its northern and southern sides. It was on tliis ridge that the town tirst began to be built. The most ancient name on record applied to the rock fortress is Casteth Mynyd Agues, " the fortress of the hill of Saint Agnes." The name Edinburgh issaidto be derived from Edwin, an Anglo-Saxon King of Northumbiia, who died in 634. The Lothians and whole south-east of Scotland were at that time part of the kingdom of Northumbria ; tlie nortliern parts of the country were then the scene of continual wars.

An old Gaelic name of Edinburgh is Dunedin. For some cen- turies the town was confined I'utirely to the ridge already noticed. On the north was a lake, now drained, the North Loch. On other sides it was defended bv a wall, of which some traces still remain. After the cession of Lothian to the Scjts. in li'SO, the castle often became the residence of the Scottish monarehs, and in the 12th century David I. made it his favoiu-itebabi ation. Dwellings now multiplied around it, and David founded the Abbey of Holyrood, whoso canons he empowered to erect a suburb westward of their abbey ; and this suburb soon united itself with Edinburgh, which had rapidly extended itself down the declivity of the castle east- ward. The monks gave the name of Canonsburg, or Canongate, to their new town, wbich appellation itstill bears. The long street thus formed between the abbey and the castle consisted, it is presumed, of very humble dwellings, as itappears that long after this period tbey were thatched with straw. From William the Lion, about the close of the I2th century, it is supposed the town received the privileges of a rojal burgh, and the honour of being a place of mintage ; but soon after, this monarch, as the price of his liberty, surrendered it to Henry 11., King of England, by whom it was retained till 1186. In the year 1214 a parliament first assembled here, in the reign of Alexander II. In 1239 a general council of the Scottish church met here ; and during the reign of Alexander III. it became the royal residence, and the despository of the records and regalia of tlie kingdom. In 1291 the town and castle were surrendered to King Edward I. ; but were speedily regained by the Scots, who hfld them, until the fatal battle of Dunbar, in 1394, enabled Edward to recapture them. The castle continued in the possession of the English until 1313, ■when it once moie reverted to Scotland. In lS:i6, the fourteenth parliament of Bruce met in Holyrood Abbey; and the next year was memorable for the admission of the borough ref resentatives among those of tbe other esta'es, and for the confirmation of the treaty of Noi'thampton, by which the independence of Scotland was acknowledged by Edward III. Shortly after, Robert I. granted a charter to the inhabitants of Edinburgh, and placed under their dominion the town of Leith, "with its harbour and mills." During the reign of Edward III. the castle twice changed hands, but it ultimately submitted to its natural masters, and the city continued to increase in importance, until it became the residence of the chief functionaries uf the government, after the murder of James I in 1436-7, after which it became the recognised metropolis of the kingdom. Edinburgh now rapidly increased in population, and as it was hemmed in by walls, houses of great height were erected, and very close together.

The character of the Old Town at the present day is derived from this time. At this period, also, a new street was formed, the Cowgate, parallel to the main street on the south, at tlie bottom of the ridge, now one of the poorest and most narrow streets in the OldTown. Ah( ut the middle of the 15th century Edinburgh was encircled by walls, at the instigation of James 11., the marriage of which monarch with Mary Gueldres, and her coronation, were cel- ebrated with gi-eat pomp in the Abbey of Holyrood, which abbey became the tomb of the king eleven years after war da. The turbulent reign of James HI. succeeded, during which the sites of the

1 — Se-a-n

markets were determined, the provost made sheriff of the towni and various municipal privileges j^ranted to the inhabitants lu token of the bravery and loyalty of ihe inhabitants, a banner waa also given to them, to be displayed'' in defence of their king their country, and their own rights." This Hag, from its colour, received the name of the "blue blanket," and remains in the custody of the convener of the trades, at whose apptarance therewith, says tradition, notonly the ar.ificers of Edinburgh, but those ot* the whole kingdom, are to repair to it, and tight under tho convener. On all great pageants, this memorial of the loyalty of Edinburgh is ostentatiously displayed. In 1508 the thickly- wooded lands of the *' Borough Moor" were cleared of their trees, in virtue of powers granted by the king ; and, in order to obtain purchasers for the timber, the magistrates enacted tbat '* whoever bought as much as would be sufficient lo make a new front to his liouse, might extend the same seven feet further into the street ;" by which impolitic permission the town was Idled with wooden houses, and the main street contracted lourteen feet in width.

The year 1513 was memorable for the double calamity of the plague and the disastrous defeat at Flodden. The latter misfor- time filled Edinburgh with consternation ; all capable of bearing- arms were ordered to defend the walls, and "the women wera discharged from crying or clamouring in i he streets ; " the Privy Coimcil for safety adjourned to Stirling, where James V. wag crowned. At this alarming crisis the fortitications were strengthened, and a new wall built, which encompassed the high grounds on the south, parts of which still remain. The plague continuing its virulence, the young king was removed to Dalkeith or Craigmillar. During his minority, the Earl of Arran and Cardinal Beatoun, jealous of the influence acquired by the Earl of Angus, through his marriage with the Queen Dowager, attacked him and his partizana in the street, near theNetherbow port, iu which conflict more than two hundred and fifty men were slain, and the residue of the Hamilton's or Arran's party expelled by tho Douglases, or a faction of Ajigus. This bloody affair was designated by tlie populace "Cleanse the Causeway,' Similar sanguinary occurrences were not unfrequent in these contentious times, and during his whole minority the capital was the theatre of tumult, chiefly through tbe turbulence of i he house of Douglas. Incon- sequence of the prevailing disquietude, the Privy Council and Pavliainent frequently met in the Tolbooth, or common gaol. In 1514 the small force was appointed afreiwards known by the name of the "City Guard," which was dissolved so lately as 1817. In 1538 excitements and disturbances arose in the city, from tho secret diffusion of the principles of tbe Reformation.

The year 1533 was signalized by the establishment in the capital of the College of Justice, which important corporation, including thewholebody of functionaries connected with the supreme courts, endowed Edinburgh still more with the attributes of a metropolis ; and as the city rose in dignity, the Parliament interfered for the correction of its deformities. Rowsot obstructing tenements were removed, and many salutary regulations enforced for the preven- tion of impurities ; the High street was paved, and lanterns were ordered to be hung out at night by the inhabitants. In 1534, Nor- man Gourlay and David Straiton were tried and condemned afi Holyrood fur heiesy, and executed at Greenside. In 1543, the magistrates having ihimght proper to deprive the craftsmen of the privilege of voting at the election of provosts and bailies, the deacons drew their swords in the council chamber ; but the strife was subdued, partly by compromise and partly by the irresistible reasonings of an armed force. The next year was a disastrous one for the rising metropolis. Henry VIII. of England, in revenge for the opposition nmde by the Catholic regency of An an and Beatoun to the marriage of his son Edward w th the young Queen Mary, sent an army and fleet to ravage Scotland, under the command of the Earl of Hertford, who, landingat Leith, set tiro to Edinburgh, and burnt the abbey and palace of Holyrood. The attempt to capture tbe castle was unsuccessful; but the departing foe destroyed the pier of Leitli, seized the ships in the harbour, and " neioher pyle, village, town, nor house, in their way home- wards, was left uuburnt." In consequence of this outrage, a French garrison was introduced four years afterwards, under D'Esse, who fortiiied Leith, and took every precaution against a repetition of the calamity.

About the year 1556, the intrepid reformer, John Knox, became conspicuous. The Reformation now made rapid progress in Scotland, but not -without strife and bloodshed. The population destroyed notonly tbe symbols of popery, but also many of the religious houses. On the anniversary of Baint Giles, the patron saint of Edinburgh, the priests and monks were furiously attacked and dispersed, and the effigy of the saint, which they were carrying in procession, was indignantly destroyed ; and when the lords of the congregation arrived from Perth, Stirling, and Linlithgow, they found their purposett work had been anticipated

EDINBURGHSHIRE

EDINBURGH

SLATER'S

by the people; but it Is fortunate that the rage of the refoi-mtrs in Edinburgh was conlined to the decorations and furnitureof the churches, so that two of the chief ecclesiastieal edifices siill remain, while the convents and monasteries were converted into dwelling houses, some of which are still standing. The struggle b.-tweerfthe two parties now became fierce, and but for the arrival of an English force to the assistance of the Prote&tauts, the issue of the contest would liave been doubtful ; but the reformers, with these auxiliaries, beoomingascentlant, the triumph of the popular sentiment was complete. The iir&t assembly of the reformed kirk met in Edinburgh on the 15th of Jiinuary, 1560. On the 91 h of August, 1561. Mary, Queen of Scots, landed at Leith, from France, t-o sway the sceptre of lier ancestors, and she was well received; but her jiredil'^ction for the Eomish ritual soon abated her popularity, and subjected her to insult; even her private ohapel was invaded and her devotions interrupted. The drama now became fearfully interesting, the scenes were rapidly shifted, and tragical incidents occurred in quick successi n. Darnley was proclaimed king at the market cross on the 2^th of July, ISeio, and on the next morning, within the chapel of Holyrood. he became the husband of Queen Mai-y. On the 9th of the following March, David Hizzio, the Italian favourite of the Qu en, was murdered, in the palace, by Daniley and his confederates. On the 19th of June the Queen gave birth to a son, afterwards James the Sixth of Scotland, and the First of England. On the 10th of the ensuing February, 1567, while Darnley sojourned in a secluded house, called the Kirk-o'-Field, near the site of the present University, it was blown up by gunpowder, and he lost his life. Many circurastanoes coincided to involve the Eurl of Bothwell in sus- picion of planning the murder, and the Queen of a guilty privity. Be this as it may, Bothwell, having divorce* himself from his wife, became the husband of the queen in three short months after its perpetration. This shameless marriage took place on the 15th of Maj^, 151:7, in the palace of Holyrood, and was the occasion of fresh disturbances in Edinburgh. So formidable was the insur- rection, that the Queen and Bothwell, on the Bth of June, fled from the popular odium, first to Borfhwick Casle, and thence to Danbar, which abandonment of the capital was followed by the entry of three thousand insurgents, who took possession of the seat of government. Shortly afterwards the queen was brought back to Edinburgh, a spectacle for the insults of he populace, and the next day was sent a prisoner to Lochleven Castle. A regoncy was then formed in the name ot the infant son of Mary, James VI., and the Earl of Moray was proclaimed regent; but the assassination of this popular favourite, two years after, at Linlithgow, threw the capital into confusion. The struggle between the contending parties was renewed with alternate ascendancy ; the Earl of Lennox became the new regent, and Kirkcaldy of G-range, the provost of the town and governor of the castle, d-clared for the queen, whose i arty held a parliament in the Tolhooth, while that of the regent held theirs in the Canon- gate. Kirkcaldy seized all the arms he could find, and planted a battery on the ste^^ple of St. Giles, and being supplied by Frame with monpy and ammmiition, he and his associates became formidable antagonists to the regency. The Earl of Morton f nd the regent, on the other side, having united, fortified Leith, and for two years the two parties waged a fluctuating warfare, until Queen Elizabeth of England, at the ent eaty of M' rton, sent a small, army from Berwick, which soon reduced the castle, and the captive Kirkcaldy, with his brother, were shortly afterwards hanged at the Cross, althoiigh they had surrendered under a promise of merciful treatment. But the time bad now arrived for the young king to assume the government himself. He entered the city with great pomp, and immediately convened a parliament in the Tolbooih, and tranquillity was in some degree restored. The Earl of Morton, the late regent, was now ac used of being an accessory to the murder of Darnley, was convicted, and executed by a machine called the " maiden," similar to the guillotine, and alleged to be an invention of his own. The Reformation now being firmly established, education became an object of solicitude ; the University of Edinburgh arose, and around it many subordinate colleges and schools, by which the character of the city was elevated. The poor, also, were not forgotten : funds for their maintenance were granted from the revenues of the suppressed religious houses anil their lands. King James, though he had assumed the throne, held the eceptre with a feeble hand. The chief nobility, clergy, and a considerable portion of the com- munity, were jealous of mona'cby, and the uncompromising character of the new religion, with the austere manners of its professors, were little in unison with the manners and practices of the Court. They preferred presenting James with 5,000 merks, about £380 sterling, to provide an entertainment, and shortly after they were required to send a beautiful ship to Denmark, at the cost of £500, to bring home the king and his bride ; they also rreaented the bride with a valuable jewel, pledged to them by the king as security *ot a considerable sum advanced him. Still these muniiicent donations did not exempt the citizens from "intolerable Impositions and grievous exaetions." The execution of Queen Mary, in 1586, excited ^reat ind'gnation in Edinburfjh, but neither the king nor his svibj>^cts displayed their feelings by any deeds. In 1591, the Earl of Bothwe'l made a daring attempt to seize the person of the king. Hav'ng intro- duced himself at night infci the court of the palace, he advanced to the royal apartment; but before he could force the doors the alarm was given, the citizens flew to arms, and frustrated the attempt. Bothwell escaped, but eight of bis followers were executed. A fresh cause of tumult soon arose ; the young Earl of Moray, the heir of the regent, was assassinated by the Earl of Huntly ; and as the king whs suspected of connivance, the citizens indignantly arose, and openly insulted both the king and his ministers. James thought it prudent to retreat to Glasgow, where he remained till the hurricane had subsided. Not long afterwarda the monarch vras presented by these same citizens with ten tuns of wine, and a hundred of their number were in attendance at the baptism of Prince Henry ; a guard of fifty cltUeug y/f^^ aiag ftppoiuteti to ptoteofi hia person irom

Bothwell. In 1503 a rebellion broke among the boys in the High School, and one of the bailies was shot by a youth while attempting to subdue it. James, annoyed by the freedom of the langnage that was uttered from the pulpits, attempted to restrain it, wh'ch excited an insurrection that not only occasoned his prerogative to be insulted, but his person to be endangered. He, in consequence, retired from the city, ordered all the public courts to be removed, and was only prevented from avenging himself still further by the supplications and cash of the magistrates. In 1596 James was agam in collision with his subjects, in consequence of some English players being introduced into the city. Shakespeare is supposed to liave been one of the number. The clergy fulmin- ated their abhorrence, and the presbytery issued a decree against the p'ayers, wliich the privy council annulled, and the oontinnance of the players was tolfrafced, which was followed up, in June, 1598, by an ordinance that evfry Monday should be a play day. Atthis period an important alteration was made in the compvit^- tion of time. The year had hitherto commenced on the 25th of March, but by a convention of estates, which met on the 10th of December, 1599, it was ordered that in future New Year's Day should be on the first of January.

The manners of the times are thus described by an Englishman who visited Edinburgh in the year 1598 : — " Myself was at a knight's bouse, who had many servants to attend to him, that brought in his meat with their heads covered with blue caps, the table being covered with great platters of porridge, each having a little piece of sodden meat, and when the table was served the servants sat down with us ; but the upper mess, instead of pcrridge, had a pullet with some prunes in the brotb ; and I observed no art of cookery or furniture of household stuff, but rather rude neglect of both, though myself and companions, sent from the governor of Berwick al>out bordering affairs, were entertaii ed after the best manner. They drink pure wines, not mixed with sugar like the English ; yet at feasts thty put comfits in their wines, after the French fashion, but they have not our vintners' fraud to mix their wines. I did never see nor hear that they have any public inns with signs hanging out, but the better sort of ci'izehs brew ale, their usual drink, which will distemper a stranger's body. Their bedsteads are like cupboards in the wall, with door's to be opened and shut at pleasure ; s o that we climbed up to our beds," iSce. In 1600, the Duke of Eoban, having visited Edinburgh, states that the city was about one thousand paces in length, and from four to five hundred in breadth ; and adds that there was nothing remarkable in it butthf' great street, which was very long and broad, and extended from one end of the town to the other; the houses, he says, were not sumptuous, being al most all built of wood .

On the 24th of March, li503. Queen Elizabeth died, and James succeedeii to the throne of England, to which country he imme- diately departed, after taking formal farewell of the citizens of Edinburgh, at the church of St. Giles, where he addressed them after the sermon, and both parties, it is said, evinced deep emotion. The suierior splendour of the English throne caused James, perliaps, to think his Scottish one too plain and unostentatious; and, to change its character a little, he sent down to the magistrates of Edinb\irgl] patterns for their gowns, which they were directed to wear, and, moreover, to have a sword of state carried before them; but instead of sending with these patterns 59.000 merks, which he owed, he obhged them to be content with 30,00i>, in full of all demands ; notwithstanding which, when the king paid his long-promised visit to his Scottish capital, in 1618, he was received with pomp and addressed with adidation ; the magistrates, upon the "verie knees of their harts," doing him reverence, and styling him the "perfection of eloquence and the quiiitessence of rulers." They entertained him with a banquet, and presented bim with a silver basin with 10,000 merks (about £560 sterUng) in it, in double gold angels. A parliament was immediately convened, and among other acts which it passed was one for the restitution of archbishops, bishops and chapters. About this time the town council purchased the mills of Bonnington from Robert and John Logan, with the lands and tiends belonging to them, for 1,250 merks Scots (£68 6s. ?d. sterling). In 1621 an act was passed for the covering of houses with lead, slate or tilea, instead of thatch, and water was introduced the same year by pipes; three new bells wereimporteri from Holland — two for St. Giles's church and one for the Netherbow Port. March 27th, 1625. closed James's career ; and on the 31st, Charles I. was proclaimed king in his stead ; and in June, 1(333, he was crowned king of Scotland in the Abbey of Holyrood.

The erection of Edinburgh into a bishopric, and an order for the introduction of a Utnrgy into the churches, caused great tumult in the city, resulting in a general assembly at Glasgow, in 1638, by which Presbyterlanism was immediately restored. The treaties of Berwick and Ripon exhibit both the hatred of the Scotch to prelacy and the folly of the monarch in endeavouring to enforce it. Soon after the treatyof Ripon. Charles visited Edinburgh, but though he was ostentatiously received, his conduct during his residence was neither discreet nor grateful. The " great rebellion," as it is termed, broke out shortly after, during which the " solemn league and covenant "between the two nations for the extirpation of prelacy was signed in the High Church, Edinburgh, in July, 1643. and twelve hundred men were sent in consequence to a'^sist the English parliamentary forces against Cliarles ; hot in 1645, the covenanters being routed by Montrose, atKilsjih, Edinburgh was threatened with destruction by the marquis unless the prisoners of the king's par^y were instantly released, and the city at this moment being desolated by 'he plague, his demands were complied with. On the ISth of May, 1650, the Marquis of Montrose was brought a prisoner into Edinburgh, and three days after was hanged at the cross.

Averse to liepublicanism, the Foots proclaimed the exiled Charles the Second as tlieir king, which brought upon them the avenging sword of Cromwell ; and in December, 1650, he was in possession of Edinburgh and its castle, bub the magistrates had fled to Stirling, the headquarters of Oharles, leaving the city fco be

govem«^ by tlilrfcy eljo&«a elt^ieng. Tl^e battle ol "Worflostw

biRBCTORY

EDINBURGH

EDINBURQHSHIRH

having placed Scotland completely in the power of Cromwell, commisaioners were sent by him from England to rule the kingdom, who arrived at Dalkeith in January, 1653 ; and from them the humble citizens were obliged to obtain consent ere they could elect new magistr-itea. Uuder the sway ('f Cromwell, Edinburgh and Leith enjoyed repose ; but so greatly were they Impoverished by so many years of strife, that very few of the inhabitants were in a condition to pay their debts, and the magistrates were served with a charge of horning for jesSO.OOO Scots, £43,833 6a. 8d. sterling, which, with diflBculty, they obtained time to pay.

Diu-ing the period of the Commonwealth there was a virtual union between England and Scotland, and much aalutai-y reform was introduced in the mimicipul regulatioi.s. The restoration of Charles in ItitiO v. as hailed with joy by the Town Council, who, in return for a donation of £1,000 made to his Majesty, rec-ived pLr- mission to levy a tax upon the citizens if one-i hird of a penny oii each pint of ale, and twOtieuce on each pint of wine consumed in the city ; indeed, at this epoch, both loyalty and dis ttfect on were made pretexts for amercing the citizens, in the one case by a tax, and in the other a fine. Adam Woodcock, at this period, was licensed by the Town Council to run a coach between Edinburt,h and Leitli, the fare to be fourpence each person ; and the baroii bailie of Broughton had a grant made to him of the goods and chattels of all women condemned !or wichcraft. In August, 1660, the English tribimals gave place to the ancient forms of govern- ment, and the tirit parliament, in 1 '561, rescinded all acts passed during the last twenty-three years, and restored episcopacy. Severities towards the Presbyterians followed, and Scotland, in consequence, during tlie succeeding twenty seven years, was in a state of insurrection and anarchy; the lawn of the prelate was Blained with the blood of the Presbyterian, and the slaughtered bodies of the covenanters were strewn thickly on the land, until at last the mantle of Knox p/oved more invincible than the mail of the cavalier. The covenanters of the west arid south rose in arms. Dispirited by the desertion of more than one-half of their number, which never much exceeded five thousand, and fatigued by their long march, they reached the Pentland Hills on the 28th November, 1666, where they were overtaken by General Dalziel, with a body of cavalry. Though now reduced to eight hundred, they bravely repulsed several attacks of their assailants, but were at length overpowered and dispersed. About fifty were killed, and one hundr. d and fifty taken pi isoners — twenty of these were executed at Edii burgh, thirty-five were hanged in the country before th"ir own doors, and others were grievously tortured. The magistracy, by bribes and entertainments, entail-d a debt upon the city which to this hour is a vexatious burden to its inhabitants. The Duke of Lauderdale appears to be a prime recipient of thf corporation moneys. Some curious specimens of the trifling of the municipal functionaries occur at this period. Women were forbidden to wear plaids on their heads on pain of seizure. Tlie charges made at " penny weddings " were s 'lemnly moderated, and one James Michael Philo, physician, was authorized to errct astagein Edinbiu*gh, on which to practise his profession, but discharged from any performance of ro/?e da7icmg until his claim had been e.xamined by the " master of therevells." In 1678, it appeurs fiom a " list of the hail possessors (of houses) in the different parishes," taken under authority of the magis- trates, that there were at this time within the ro3'alty, 3,333 famiUes, so tt at, taking five as the average number of each, the population amounted to 16,665.

In the year 1679, James, Duke of York, took up his abode in Holyrood Hou^e, and won the affections of the citizens by the gaieiy of his court, and by his conformity to their predilections ; balls and masquerades were got up by the ladies in his suite, and the novel beverage tea was introduced to their parties. Tothe popularity acquired by James in th's visit, may be. in some degi'ee ascribed that zeal for the Stuart cause which was mat.i- fested in 1715 and 1745. In January, 1685, an equestrian statue of Charles II. was ordered to be erected in Parliament close, now Parliament square ; and on the 15th February following, the flagitious original was as cold and lifeless as the statue. A few days afterwards a stage was erected at the Cross, frum which the Lyon King at Arms, attended by all the great functionaries, proclaimed King James, ai.d swore unto him allegiance and fealty; the pulpits became rostrums for adulation ; and Viscount Melfort, one of the secretaries of state, was presented by tlie obst-quious Town Council with a jewel worth £500 sterling, for the many services he had rendered the city, and three days afterwards "with £300 in cash, for deU\ering the city address to the king. A few months after the accession of James, the citizens beheld the imfortunate Earl of Argyll led igiiominiously t-o the same gallows on which Montrose had suffered, he ba\ ing attempted to raise the standard of rebellion in Scotland in I'oncert with the Duke of Monmouth, and in support of his attempt in England. The Earl having been indebted to Herlot's Hospital to the amount of £58,403 10s. Scots, the corporation of Edinburj^h was compelled to pay the money. The suspention of the test soon disclosed the intentions of the King. Early in 1636, every printer and bookseller in Edinburgh was forbidden by the rrivv council to print or sell any book animadverting on the Romish faith; but when the oflficer of the privy council waited upon James G-len with his proliibition, G-len said he had " one book in his shop which was all against popery, but which he would sell in spite of the mandate." *' What book is it?" inquired the officer. "It is the Bible," answered Gkn, •• the worst enen.y the Church of Eome ever fought against." Tumults now became very frequent. Ihe chancellor's lady and other persons of distinction were insulted as they were returning from the cele1>ra1i"n of mass. This led to an order from the privy council that one of the rioters, a journeyman baker, should be "Whipped through the Canougate ; the populace rushed to the rescue of their martyr, beat the executioner, and continued tumultuous during the night; the king's foot guards and soldiers from the castle fired upon them, and a woman andtw^o men were killed; next day aoveral of the captive tioters were ordered to be whipped. The aounoil, however, took oare to have muaketeers

Rnd piHemen to at'ten'ilftBce lupmeatitUe repetition of a.reseue,

A drummer was shot for having said he could find in his heart to I run his sword through some papists; and a fencing master was hanged at the Cross merely for having drank "confusion to papists," and having likewise expressed ha feood will towai'ds Che rioters.

Such were the measures of the city magistracy, in defiani-e of the murmurs and flisgust of the citizens ; and shortly afterwards we find these servile minions assuring the king that they were "ready with their lives and fortunes to stand by his sacred person upon all occasions, and praying for the continuance of his princely goodness ani care towanlsthe ci'y." This fawning was rewarded by the surrender to them of the impost upon ale, of which the corporation had for some time been robbed by the treasury. 8o zealous, indeed, weretbe magistrates in the papal cause, that one Wa'son, a popish printer, havin .' been distrained upon for rent, the articles seized were forcibly taken from the officer, and these with their owner, were conveyed to the sanctuary of Holyrood. Watson was afterwards made king's printer, which appoint- ment was continued to his sou in the rei>;n of Queen Anne. Fi'om the retords of Fountain-hail, we find that, on the 23rd November, 1686, the king's yacht arrived at Leith, w.th the altar, ve3tments,images, priests, and their appurtenances, for the popish chapel in the abbey of Holyrood. On 8t. Andrew's day the chapel was consecrated by holy water, and a sermon by Wederington. On the Sth of February. 1633, Ogsto ^n, a bookseller, was threat- ened for selling Archbishop Usher's sermon against the papista and the history of the French persecutions, aud all the copies were tnkeii from him. On the 33ud March tbe rules of the popish college in the abbey of Holyro:)d were pubhshed, inviting children to be educated gratis. But the landing of the Prince of Orange in England changed the scene. The Presbyterians now poured into B,.inburgh, and the papists rushed out. All was uproar; the E rl of Perth, the chancellor, fled from the city, and the govern- ment fell into the hands of tbe rtvolutiimists. The populace assem' led at the beat of drum in multitudes; the abbey was at acked, the assailants were fireii upon, and a dozen were killed, and thrice as many wounded. This (caused their retreat, but they quickly reappeai-ed, headed by the magistrates, town-guard, (rain band, and heralds ; another skirmish ensued, in which the revolu- tionists were successful ; the abbey church and chapel were ransacked, the college of th-^ Jesuits destroyed, and the houses of the Koman Catholics plundered ; in short, e'ery symbol of the hated r< ligion exist ng in the city was extirpated with a fierceness approaching to frenzy — even the wynds and closes were explored, and many religious liouses therein were entered and sacked; the onlj; class that remained true to the popish cause were the clergy, and they were the chief sufferers by the change. The privy council and magistrates veered with the shifting wind ; these men who so lately were ready with their lives and fortunes to stand by King James, with a baseness unmatched, were the first in "offering their services to the Prince of Orange," and the loudest in their complaints of the " hellish attempts t£ Eomish incendiaries."

On tbe Uth of March, 1689, assembled the convention of estates —the most momentous meeting th>it Edinburgh ever witnessed. It resolved, that James having forfeited the crown, it shou'd be offered to William and Mary; a second result of their deliber- ations was the memorable "claim cf rights;" a new election of municipal officers was advised, I >y poll of th-i burgesses paying, watching, and warding, and 1 able for other public claims ; several ministers wei e deprived of their pulpits for refusing to pray for the new Sovereigns; the convention became a parlia- ment, and the establif-hed religion wa3 declared Presbyterian. The predicament of Edinburgh at this moment was singularly critical; on the one hand was the convention surrounded by the masses of its supporters, armed and unarmed, including six thousand Cameronians from the West ; on tbe other was the castle in the hands of the Duke of G-ordon, the partisan of James, and wdio could, if he willed it, make the city a ruin ; numerous violent royalists also paraded the s' reets, with Lord Balcarres and the reckless Dundee at their head — the latter, indeed, with a party of fifty horse, waiting the signal for mischief. Yet no explosion took place; Dundee quitted the city for Perthshire, first clamber- ing up the western side of tbe castle to commune with tlie governor. The death of this daring foe on the 17th of Joly, !689, and the surrender of the castle on the 13th of June, 1690, secured the permanency of the salutary ehanges.

During the reign of King William, Edinburgh reposed in com- parative peace ; but the new civic government became jealoua of the college of justice, whose members it disarmed; the gaol was filled with the disaffected, amongst whom were Lords Balcarres and Kilsyth, and the atrocious Earl of Perth. Many of tlie acta of the new authorities were arbitrary and severe. Towards the close of William's reign, six ships sailed from the Firth of Forth, amid the acclamations of multitudes, to plant a co'ony on the Isthmus of Darien ; and when tbe failure of this scheme became known in March, 1699, the rage of tbe people was ungovernable, as the miscarriage of the enterprise was attributed to the influence of the king; the prisons were broken open and many acts of violence perpetrated before the popular effevvescence subsided. On Saturday, the 3rd of February, 1700, a di-eadful conflagration broke out on the aovith side of Parliament square, which destroyed an extensive pile of buildings, including the Advocates' Library and tbe Bank of Scoiland, and dislodging nearly two hundred families from their dwellings.

The reign of Queen Anne was signalized by the event so momen- tous to Sco land, the " Act of Union." Alarming were the disturb- ances wliioh manifested the unpopularity of the measure, and the period between January Uth, 1705. and January 16th, 1707, during which it was disccssed, was one of clan our and outrage. The pavliament and commissioners were compelled to seek the protection rf the military during the ratification of the articles. Many of the prognostications of the adversaries of the union were" realized ; ' he capital was soon desertt d by the higher classes of its residentfl, and their expenditure, in consequence, transferred to the rival melropolls. Among other causes of regret w«&tJi©di99ominuftnce Of the popwiap ^\%f p^gewit CftUed

8

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the "riding of parliament." a grand and gorgeous procession, which took place at the opening of the session of parliament. From the 1st May, 1707, when the Act of Union came into operation, the aspect of the Scottish capital became strikingly chanj^ed, improvement ceased, and for nearly half a century little activity or energy was displayed. In 1715, two attempts were made by the Jac bite party to g*^t possession of the city, both of •which failed. The remarkable tumult, known as the Porteous mob, happened in 1736. Its particulars, including the attempted rescue of Wilson, the smuggler . the tiring on the mob by Porteous, the commandei ofthe civic militia ; histrijil, conviction, reprieve, and subsequent execution by the hands ofthe riotovs; the arrest of the lord provost for his want of precaution, and the fine of dE2,0J0 imposed upon the city as a compensation to the widow of Porteous — are all fully detailed iu Sir Walter Scott's "Heart of Midlothian ; " and it is nob the least extraordinary circumstance connected with this ainyular affair, that none of the actors in the tragedy were ever discovered, although a large reward was offered. The next agitating event was the surrender of the city to Prince Charles Edward in the rebellion of 1745, followed by the prorUma- tion, at the Cross, of James VIII, as king of Scotland. The battle of Prestonpana qui'-kly succeeded, terminating in favour ofthe Pretender, after a contlict of only ten minutes' duration ; it was at this battle that the good Colonel G-ardiner fell. After an impolitic continuance in the city for six weeks, the Chevalier departed with 6,000 troops, which, after marching and wandering for six months, agitated alternately by hope ani apprehension, met th^ir final overthrow on the plains of CuUoden, April 16th, 1746. Between this period and 1779, few events occurred important enough for our brief chronicle. In 1773, the mutiny of Lord 8eafort.a's Highland regiment on account of their being ordtred to India without payment of some arrears, and a stipulation as to the limit of their service, occasioned a considerable sensation. The mutineers ascended the lofty eminence of Arthur's Seat, where thev remained encamped until an adjustment was effected by Lords Danmore and Macdonald. The French revolution caus'-d in ScotUnd, as well as in tlie sister kingdom, diversity of opinion and much excitement of feeling. Those who hailed the emancipation of a great people from vassalage formedassociations for the nurture of the principles of freedom and the diffusion of political know- ledge; these were watched with jealousy by the British govern- ment, and a system of espionage was established, the treacherous agents of which incite 1 their victims to enthusiastic imprudence, and then betrayed them to their employers. Among those so denounced were Messrs. Watt, Downie. Muir, Margaret, and Q-erald ; the first was convicted and hangtd ; the others were transported ; Watt had formerly been a government spy. The trials ol" these gentlemen and the severity of their sentences shed no lustre upon Scottish jurisprudence ; the judges were too plainly animated by political feeling.

During the long war wh ch ensued on the French revolution, and when the country was in dread of invasion, volunteer com- panies were formed in Edinburgh. Nowhere, perhaps, was the enthusiasm which led to their formation more genuine or more widely diffused among all classes of the people. In the latter part of isll the lawless part of tlie population concocted a plan for the indiscriminate plunder of the citizens, and on the last night of the year a numerous gang of juvenile desperadoes sallied forth with bludgeons, and knocked down evei-yone whose appearance gave them the chance of booty. Resistance was ineffectual, for the police were rputed, and High-sti-eet and North Bridge-street were for hours in the possession of the plunderers. Many persons were dangerously wounded, and several mortally. Three of the delinquents were executed in High-street, after convieti n of murder. On the 15th August, 13:^2, George IV. disembarked at the landing-place of Leith, the first visit of the sovereign to Scotland since the time of Charles II. Our limits will not permit a detail of the movements of royalty, nor of the pompous prepa^-a- tions which were made for the reception of the king. From all parts of Scotland multitudes thronged to Edinburgh. Loyalty was enthusiastic and very demonstrative. The feeling was national, and all classes shared in it. The king's entrance into Edinburgh was a triumphal procession. He took up his abode at Dalkeith House, as the guest of the Duke of Buccleuch ; held a levee at Holyrood, and attended public worship on Sunday in the High Church. On the 26th the king was present at the ball of the Caledonian Hunt, and next evening he saw "Rob Roy" performed at the theatre. A splendid banquet was prepared for his Majesty in the great hall of the parliament house by the lord provost, magistrates, and town council. The lord j rovost received a baronetcy. On the 29th, after partaking of a repast at Hopetoun House, the king emtmrked on board the royal yacht at. Port Edgar, near Queensferry, amid the acclainations of assembled thousands; and thus closed a spectacle which will long live in recollection. We pass over a period of twenty years, and arrive atasimilaroccasionof excitement in the Scottish metroiolis.

On Monday, the 29th of August,1842, her Majesty Queen Victoria, with her royal consort, Prince Albert, and suite, embarked at Woolwich, to visit the Scottish capital ; on Thursday morning the approach of the royal squadron was announced by the tiring of two guns from the castle ; at eight o'clock it arrived at Granton Pier, and in little more than an hour after the loyal party landed on the platform erected for the occision. Her Majesty was received with the utmost enthusiasm, and the arrangements on this occasion in Edinburgh were upon a scale unequalled in the annals of Scotland. On Tuesday morning, the 6th of September, Her Majesty took her departure for the north, and she and her royal consort were received with every expression of ioy and loyalty wherever they went. On Monday, the 14th of September, the Queen again passed through Edinburgh on her way to Dalkeith, to embark at Granton. Since tliat time Her Majesty has frequently visted Edinburgh, sometimes spending a night at Holvrood, in

going to or returning from Balmoral; but although public feeling as always been ready to display itself warmly, no particular preparations have been made upon any occasion, except in the month of August, 1876, when her Majesty again visited

Edinburgh, and upon that occasion unveiled the memorial to the late Prince Consort, a description of which will be found in a subsequent column,

INTERESTING RELICS OP ANTIQUITY. Edinburgh Castlb is situated on the western and rugged extremity of the central hill on which the ancient part of the city is built. It is of great antiquity ; the rock is supposed to have been first fortified about the year 6l7 by Edwin, son of ^,lla, king of Northumbria. The area of the rock on which the castle stands measures about seven statute acres ; the highest point is 437 feet above the level of the sea, and it is accessible o.ily on the eastern side, the <ithers being nearly pe pendicular. Within are several batteries, magazines, storerooms and arsenals for upwards of thirty thousand stand of arms, barracks containing lodging for two thousand men with i heir officers, and every other requisite for the mustering and accommoiiation of a numerous garrison. In 1093, Malcolm III. (Malcolm Canmore) having fallen in battle at Ahiwick, the castle of Edinburgh was besieged by Donald Bane, his brother, who aspired to the crown, to which the old Scotfish customs gave him a right to pretend, although Malcolm had left children. The castle fell into the hands ofthe besiegers, ihe garrison est-aping by a postern, under shelter of a thick fog, and carrying with them to Dunfermline the body of Mart.'aret, Malcolm's queen, known as St. Margaret, the sister of Edgar Atheling, whom the Saxons of England sought to elevate to the throne after the b ittle of Hastings. William the Lion occasionally resided in the castle of Edinburgh, and in 1174 it was delivered up to the English, pledged for his ransom when taken prisoner at the battle of Alnwick, bur. shortly after restored on his marriage with the sister of Viscount Beaumont. In 1:^39, the daughter of Henry III. of England marrying Alexander IU. had this castle assigned for her residence. During the contest between Bruce and Buliol, in 1296, the castle was besieged and taken by the English. It was several times taken and retaken during the struggle which then began, and which was decked in favourof the independence » f Scotland by the battle of Bannuckburn.

In 1297 it was dismantled by Sir William Wallace ; having bepn repaired, it again fell into the hands of the English, when Robert Bruce caused it, with the other recovered fortresses, to be demolished. It was in ruins in ISSfi. when it served for a retreat to Count Namur's forces, defeated by the Earl of Moray. Jfc remained in ruins till 1337, when Edward III. of England gave orders for it being rebuilt, and placed a strong garrison in it. In 1341 it was surprised by William Douglas. In 1371 David II. di^d in it During the reign of Robert III. the burgesses of Edinburgh had the singular privilege conferred upon them of ei-ecting dwellings within the castle, subject to no other limitation than that they should be persons of good fame. In 1400 the castle was taken by Henry IV. of England. It was seized by the Earl of Douglas* in 1416, and held by him till 1418. The con ition of Scotland at this time, when James I. was a prisoner in England, was one of nearly complete anarchy. After the murder of James I., at Perth, 1436, his queen and the royal family tor-k refuge in the castle. James II., in the year 1438, was detained here by Sir William Crichton, the chancellor, in a sort of honourable durance, till, by a stratagem of the queen mother, he was conveyed, with his own consent, out of the castle in a wardrobe chest. Here, too, William, sixth earl of Douglas, and his brother David, were, in 1440, basely murdered by Crichton, who envied the earl's ricbes and dreaded his power. James HI. was also confined in this castle by his subjects for nine months, till he was released in the year 1482, by the Duke of Albany, who, a3:jisted by the citizens of Edinburgh, surprised the castle. It was converted into a state prison for James V. and his brother, while infants. In 1S73 this fortress was held for the unfortunate Queen Mary, at that time a prisoner in Fotheringay Ca?tle, by the faithful and heroic Kirkcaldy of Grange, who resolutely defended it for thirty-three days against the united efforts of the Scotch and English. When the fortifications were battered down, the blockhouse on the ease taken by assault, every supply of water exhausted, and the garrison in mutiny, he made an honourable capitulation— not to the regent Morton, but to Sir William Drury, commander of the English forces; but Queeu Elizabeth, regtiniless alike of her general's honour and her own, gave the prisoners up to the regent's disposal. In 1650 the castle sustained a siege if above two months against the parliamentary army, commanded by Cromwell, and at last yiel led on honourable terms, Cromwell remarking that " if it had not come as it did, it would have cost very much blood."

A'fter theflight of James II., at the close of 16SS, it was long held for him by the Duke of Gordon, with a weak and ill-provided garrison. During this time, the Viscount Dundee, better known in Scottish history and tradition as Graham of Claverhouae, clambered up the precipice to hold a conference with Gordon, before he raised an army in the highlands on behalf of James.

In 1715, an unsuccesdful attempt was made by the rebels to surprise this fortress ; and in 174-5, although the Highlanders were masters of the town, they did not venture to attack this post. During the war in the beginning of the present century a number of French prisoners were confined in the castle ; but there have been no further memorable events in its history. In a small room on the ground floor of tlie ca-stle. Mary Queen of Scots g;ive birth on the 19r,h of June. 15.56, to her only son, James VI. of Scotland, afterwards James I. of England, in whom were united the crowns ofthe two kingdoms. The oak panels have been renewed after their original form, and copies of original portraits of Queen Mary and her son placed in it.

In the castle is to be seen a curious piece of ancient ordnance, called ■' Mons Meg." made of longitudinal bsirsof hamnipred iron, girt with iron hoops. It is thirteen feet in length, and twenty inches in calibre. Stone halls were fired from it, and some of them lie beside it. It is supposed to have been made at Mons, in the fifteenth century. It burst in 1682, on being fired in honour of the Duke of York's visit to Scotland. It was carried to London in 1754, and brought back in 1829.

DlRECl-OH-^f

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The view from the castle is very extensive and splendid. On the higbest point of the rock is a small ehipel in the Noi man style of architecture, said to have been built in the first half of the twelftli cdntiiry, in the reign of David I. On the espUnade of the castle is a monument, in the form of a Runic cross, erected to the memory of the officers and soldiers uf the 7Jrith Highlanders who fell in India in 1S57-8, while aiding to quell the Indian mutiny.

For along period it was the general belief of the people of Scotland that ihe regalia (placed in the castle in the year 1707) had been surreptitiously removed to London ; but by virtue of a royal mandate, a search wa3 made in 1818, when a large oaken chest was found, in what is now called the "crown loom," firmly secured with locks ; these having been forced, the i-egalia, consiatin*; of the crown, sceptre, and sword of state, were discovered carefully wrapped in fine linen cloth. They are of elegant workmanship, and in perft^ct preservation. The crown is of pure gold, highly ornamented with precious stones ; the sceptre is of silver, double gilt, wi h a stem two feet long, o^ hexagonal form, divided by three buttons or knobs; it is surmounted with a crystal globe, two inches and a quarter in diameter ; its whole length is tbirty-lour incnes. Tlie sword of statu is five feet long, and of exquisite workmanship; the pommel and hilt are silver gilt, and fifteen inches in length; the t-averse is seventeen inches and a half. The scabbard is of crimson velvet, and richly ornamented. This aword was presented by Pope Julius II. to James IV, The lord treasurer s rod of office is of silver gilt, and of beautiful execution These relics, together with a ruby ring set with diamonds, worn by Charles I. at hia Scottish coronation ; the golden collar of the Order of the Garter, sent by Elizabeth to James VI. ; and the badge of the Order of the Thistle, set with diamonds, bequeathed by Cardinal York to Genrge IV"., are exhibited three hours every day. Tickets of admission are to be obtained gratuitously at the City Chambers.

The Palace of Holyrood House stands at the eastern extremity of the city, at the bottom of the Canongate. It is a beauti- ful building, of a quadrangular form, with an open court, which is 9-i feet square. The more ancient parts of this fine edifice, con- sisting of the north-west towers, were rebuilt by James V. about the year 1528 ; though Holyrood seems to have been an occasional roj'al residence for ages before. During the minority of Queen Mjiry, the palace of Holyrood was burnt, as well as the city, by the English forces under the Earl of Hertford ; soon after it was repaired and enlarged beyond its present size,

Atthattireie it is said to have consisted of no fewer than five courts, the most westerly of which was the largest. Great part of the palace of Holyrood House was burnt by the soldiers of Crom- well ; bucat the Kescoration it was again repaired and altered to Its present form by Charles II., from designs by Sir William Bruce. Prince Charles Stuart took up his residence for sometime in this mansion of his forefathers in 1745 ; and hither the in- habitants of Edinburgh repaired to pay the contribution levied on the city. It was afterwards occupied by the Duke of Cumberland, lu 1793 apartments were fitted up for the n^sidence of the Comte d'Artois, the Dues d'Angouleme and Berri, and others of the French royal family. In 1831 the Comte d'Artois, Charles X. of France, returned to hIa old apartments, after an absence of thirty years, with several of hia family, but aoon quitted them and went to Germany, Previously to the visit of George IV. to Scotland, apartments in the palace were fitted up for hia use ; and though he resided at Dalkeith, a levee, drawing-room, and meetings of privy council were held here. Thepalace is now flitted up as a residence for her present Majesty, who OL-oasionally spends a short time here on her visits to Scotland. The apartments of Mary Queen of Scots are shown to visitors. In them are many articles said to have been used by Queen Jklary, and pieces of work said to have been wrought by her, but their history is very doubtful. Dark stains on thefloor of oneof the rooms are said to have been made by the blood of Rizzio, and to mark the spot where he was murdered on 9th March, 1566. A suit of armour and the boots and gloves which Darnley is said to liave worn at the slaughter of Kizzioare placed in the apartment in which the deed was done. Along the north aide of Holyi'ood Palace extends the picture gallery, a long apartment with a rather low roof, on the walls of which are hung pioturea pretending to be portraits of the kings of Scotland, from Fergus I. downwards. They are worthless as works of art, and equally so as portraits, having been all painted in 1684-86 by Jamea de Witt, a Dutch painter, who received £240 for the whole job. In the picture gallery the peers of Scotland meet to elect their representatives for the House of Lords, and her Majesty's Lord High Commissioner to the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland holds hia levees and receptions. Adjacent to the palacj atand theruinaof the church which belonged to the abbey of Holyrood House. In 1128, David I. founded this abbey by a charter, the original of which is in the archives of the city ; it was bestowed on the canons regular of St. Augustine, who had also granted to them the church of Fdinburgh Castle, with those of St. Cathbert, Corstorphine, andLiberton, in the county of Midlothian; and of Airth, in Ftirlingshire ; the priories of St. Mary's Isle, in Galloway; of Blantyre, in Clydesdale ; of Rowadill, in Ross ; and three others in the Western Islands. They had also port ons of lands assigned to them in different parts, with a most extensive jurisdiction : and so many other grants and privileges were bestowed on this abbey, that it waa deemed the richest foundation in Scotland. In 1177 a national coimcil was held in this abbey, on thearrival of a papal legate, to take cognisance of a dispute" between the English and Scottish clergy, as to the Bubmission of the latter to the ecclesiastical jnrisdiction of the English prelate. The part now remaining was the nave of the original church, which, when entire, consisted of a centre and two aisles. It was burned by the English in 1385, and again in 1544 and 1547. In the south-east corner of the chapel is the royal vault, in which were deposited the remains of David II., James II., Prince Arthur, third son of 'TTamea rV., James V. and his consort, Magdalen, with their second son, Arthur, Duke of 41bany, and Henry, Lord Darnley. This repository of^the royal

dead did not escape the fury of the Revolution, when tho populace plundered andlnirnedit, their anger having been excited by its use for Roman Catholic worship in the time of James VII, Part of the leaden coffins were then carried away, and the remainder at the clearing out of the rubbish, after the roof fell from the weight of the heavy flags with which it waa covered, in 1768. The g^eat eastern window, erected about 1570, was blown down by a btorm, in 1795, but reatored about twenty years after, from its own fragmenta. The precincts of the abbey of Holyrood House, including the Queen's Park, were a sanctuary for insolvent debtora. A very handsome fountain was erected in 1859, opposite to the front of the royal palace. This fountain ia a copy of an old and very beautiful one still standing in the courtyard of the ancient palace of Linliihgow.

The Mint op Scotland.— In the lane called Gray's close, stand the buildings formerly occupied by the Mint of Scotland. They were erected in 1574, but i o money has been coined there since the union of the two kingdoms. The first OJiu seems to have been struck in Scotland in the time of Alexander I., who commenced bis reign in 11U7. Th«^se coins were thin pieces of silver called pennies, and this was the silver dnn in use until the reign of Queen Mary, who intvodue^d reals, or roj/a^s, afterwards called crowns. The oldest gold coin bears the name of Robert, but whether of Robert I. is not fully aacertained. Jamea V., in his bonjiet pieces, coutr&ci,ed the Buriace and Increased the thickness of the coi age. The general names for gold coins in Scotland were florins or Tiobles, and lions. Wlien copper was first coined in Sootlanil is uncertain ; James III., however, in 146d, procured an act from his fii st pa liament for coining copper money, four to the penny. Pennies, worth one-twelfth of an English penny, were coined by James VI., and iwopeiiny pieces, or bawbees, after the Restoration. To the prince forme. ly belonged tlie exclusive right of coining money and all mines of gold and silver ; but coinage was not confined to the aapital, and many coins bear th-i liame of Aberdeen, Perth, Stirling, Dundee, Linlithgow, and Dumbarton. The principal instrument used in coining before the Restoration (when the mill and screw were introduced) were a hammer and steel dies. It is conjectured that the total sum of money in circulation at the Union amounted to upwar-'sof £900,000 sterling.

The Parliament House, where the Scottish Parliament met beiore the Union, occupies tlie aouth and west sides of Parliament quare, formerly known aa Parliamen close, on the aouth side of High street, behind St, Giles's Cathedral. The present front of the building is of recent dat*. In the Italian style ; the front was originally in the renaissarice style. Tlie hall formerly used for meetings of parliament is one hundred and twenty-two feet in length and forty in breadth ; the ceiling is of massive carved oak, and the Hoor is also of viak. arranged in i anela. This apartment now forms a handsome proiiicnade, where gentlemen of the legal profession meet daily during session to transact buaineas and a: tend their cases pending before the supreme courts, to the meetings of which the Parliament House has been appropriai ed since the time of the Union. The subject of the stained tflasa window on the south aiie of the hall ia the inauguration of the Court, in 1537, by James V., who is in the act of presenting the deed of confirmation, by Pope Clement VII., to the Lord President. The other figured represent Dunbar, Archbishop of Glasgow, the Abbot of Cambuskeuneth, and judges and nobles of the time. The window was erected at Munich, in 1868, from a design by Kaulbach, and cost £2, Gun. The hall is ornamented with statues and portraits of distinguished lawyers, more or lesa coimected with Scotland. Of the statues, the principal are those of Lord President Forbes, in his judicial robea ; Viacount Melville, Dundas of Arniston, Blair of Avontou, Fi-ancis Jeffrey, Boyle, and Cockburn. Among the portraits are— Lord Brougham, by S r Daniel Macnee ; Lords President M'Neill and Hope ; John. Duke of Argyll ; Lord President Lockhart, of Carnwath ; and other distinguished legal functionaries. Within this hall was hchl the great banquet given by the corporation of the city to George IV., on his visit to Si-otland in 1823. The Outer House, where the L rds Ordinary sit, is reached from below the window mentioned above, and consists jof four small courts, where civil cases are tried for the first time. Tne Inner House is divided info two divisions (first and second), where appeals are heard from the Outer House a d Sheriff Courts. The High Court of Justiciary is the supreme criminal tribunal of Scotland, and is situated in another part of the building. There are also entrances from the hall leading to the Advocates' Library, the Writers* to the Signet Library, and the library of the Solicitors before the supreme courts This noble hall, with the jiisticiary, exchequer, and jury courts, and the office of the police commissioners, occupies the whole of Parliament square, except the north aide, where Saint Giles's Cathedral stands. In the centre of the square is an equestrian statue of Charles II.; the figure, which is in Roman costume, was raised in 1685. at an nutlay of, it is ata ed, £215.

JoHif Knox's House. — This venerable building, once the habita- tion of tlie reformer Knox, is a conapieuous object in passing from High street towardsthe Canoncjate, asit projects at the terminating corner of the former, narrowmg the street several feet at the point called Netherbow. On its angle there is a small bust, often said to represent Knox, but really intended to represent Moses, his right hand pointing to a stone above, on which is the name of God in Greek, La in and English, the left hand resting on a tablet, supposed to represent the tables of the law. In consequence of the dilapidated state of the building, and its inconvenient projec- tion into the street, its removal was, some time since, contem- plated ; a subscription, however, was raised to avert an act which would have been greatly deplored by many. The building was repaired in 1850, and it has since become, by legacy, the property of the Free Church of Scotland.

MoiRAY House, on the aouth side of Canongate, was erected in 1618 by Mary, Countess of Home, eldest daughter of Lord Dudley, and remained in the Earl of Moray's family until 1835. It waa the residence of Oliver Cromwell whilst he was in Edin- burgh in 1648. At the time of the Union it was occupied by the Earl of Seafield, the Chancellor of Scotland, and many meetings for deliberation on the question of the Union were held in it. A

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popular legend, repre3enft3 the Treaty of Union as having been signed in a auiunier-house in the garden, of which a drawing is given in some editions of Sir Walter Scott's "Tales of a G-rand- lather." The house is now occupied as a normal school in con- nection with the Free Church.

GEA88MARKET, &c.— In the Centre of the wide street called the G-iass market, the paving stones are arranged in the form of a small 8 . Andrew's cross, to mark the spot on which stood the fatal " gallows-tree." until 1785 ; and from tlii-i spot the spii-it of many a martyr to the cause of Presbytery has winged its way to glory, during the persecuting period when Charles II. and James II. attempted to enforce prelacy upon the people of Soitland. Here it was that Porteus, the capta n of the city guard, was hanged by the mob in 1736. To the west of Candlemakf r row is the cemetery of Greyf riars' Church, where, among many other eminent perso i?, George Buchanan, Sir G-eorge Mackenzie, Alexander Henderson (the leader of the Scottish Pres- byterians in 1633 and following years), Colin Maclaurin, Allan Ramsay, Adam, the architect, iiobertson, the historian, and Blair, whose sermons were once so popular, and many others well kno vn to fame, were interred. In this churchyard many coven- ant-ers, chiefly from the w£st of Scotland, were kept prisoner j for sometime in 1679, with no lodging but the bare ground and no shelter from the weather Some were set free, others were banished as slaves to the plantations.

DES0RIPTI02T OF THE CITY AND ITS INSTITUTIONS. MOJifUMENTS, &c.

The city of Edinburgh onsists of two parts, called the Old Tow.i and the New, singularly contrasted in their aspects ; the Old T)wn covers the elevated ridge, sloping from the summit of the castle, on the west, to the base of a group of hills, at the eastern extremity, named Arttiur's Seat, Salisbury Crags, and the Calton Hill. Tlie aspect of the Old Town is singularly picturesque, from the great height of the buildings which crown the steep r dge. The New town is built on the more level ground, which chiefly forms a gentle and extensive declivity towards the north, a con- tinuous street uniting it with Leith on the north-east. These two divisions are separattd by a deep hollow, part of which was for- merly occupied by a bog or laka called the North Loch, now d'ained Through the midst of the Princes street gardens passes one of the principal lines of railway, connecting Edinburgh with the west and north of Soxjt land. The North Bridge and the Mound cross the hollow, and connect the Old Town with the New. To the spectator, viewing the city from an emlnencs, the situation appears strikingly adapted to give display to architectural beiuty. For several centuries prior to the year 1763, Edinburgh had made little effort to enlarge its boundaries; but since that epoch in its history, its extension has been very rap d. Provost Drummond had the h 'nour, on the 2l8t of October, 1763, of laying the first stone of the North Bri'lge, the completion of which formed a ready connection with the site whfchthe New Town now occu- pies ; the North Loch having been previously drained, [n 1767 fin act Wiis passed for extending the royalty over the ii^-lds to the north; the New Town was immediatlely ominenced, and the buildings proceeded with so much rapidi y. that in 1771 St. Andrew's square, and the streets which open upon it, were nearly finished ; since which, streets, squares, places, terrac?s, cescents circuses, and public edifices have arisen in rapid succession , wholly built of st me — an assemblage which, for regularity and beauty, will bear comparison with the most magnificent cities of Europe The New Town of Edinburgh now consists of three parts. The fir&t of these divisions, which stands upon the low ridge of the Old Town, is laid out in the form of a par.iUelogram. The prin- cipal longitudinal streets are three — Princes street, Q-f orge s^eet, and Queen street ; and these are intersected by others at right angles.

, Piinoes street extends nearly in a straight line from east to west for about a mile. It pai'takes of the character of a terrace, facing the Old Town, from which it is separated by a wide valley la^d out as public gardens. These are divided into two sections by the Mound, opposite Hanover street, on which are built the Koyal Institution and the National Gallery.

G-e3rge8treet,one hundred and fifteenfeet broad. is distinguished by the gi-andeur of its appearance and the elegance of its archi- tecture. On the east it is terminated by a beautiful square, called St. Andrew square ; on the west by another very fine square named Charlolte square.

Queen street, which forms the north s'de of the original paral- lelogram of the New Town, consists, like Princes street, ot a single row of hous?g, which look northwards, and comman:t from their upper winiiows a magniflcent view of the Firth of Forth and opposite coast and hill i of Fife. In front of Queen street are QuPen street gardens, nortliward oi' which is the second part of the New Town, beginning with Abercrombie place and Heriot row, which look towards the gardens. A central street of this fart of the New Town is called G-reat King street, ai'd is terminated, like George street, by large open areas ; one of these is named Drummond place, the other the Royal circus. A third section of the New Town occupies the site formerly the park of the Earl of Moray, between Charlotte square and the Water o^" Leith, comprising Moray place, Ainslie place, Randolph crescent, and many superb streets. A noble bridge of four arches, called Dean bridge, crosses the Water of Leith on the north-west of this part of the New Town, theheight of the bridge being 105 feet above the bed of the stream, ■which here flows through a deep dell or ravine. New strrets and crescnta have recently sprung up in the district to which this bridge gives access.

The third or eastern part of the New Town comprehends Leith Walk, the road connecting Leith with Edinburgh, and the build- ings on the slopes of the Calton Hill including the magnificent terraces called Regent t«rrace. Carlton terrace, and Royal terrace. Above these terraces, on the slope of the hill, are extensive gardens, whilst the summit of the Calton Hill is crowned with monuments, and its northern slope are open to the public. In a

6

line with Princes stre t is a gr;ini approach to the city from the east by the R^-gint's britlgo, which passes over the unsightly district called the Low Cali.on. Theact of parliamen^ authorising the erection ol this bridge and the formation of the road, the greatest and most ussful of the architectural improvements of Edinburgh, was passed In 1814 ; the bridge was finished in March, ISlt*. The arch over the Low Calton is fifty feet wide, forty-five feet in height on the north side, and fifty-four on the south ; the roadway is formed of reversed arches, which support the rocky materials of which it is composed ; the bridge is ornamented at i'"S centre by Corinthian jillars and open arches, surmounted by entablatures, in the hne of the adjoining buildings, called Wat-vloo place.

The Old ^own of Edinburgh extends over a comparatively small area to the northw.vrd and southward of the centra! ridge occupied by the High street. The High street itself is prol nged up the acclivity westward, unler the names of Lawnmarket and Castle hill, to the gate of theoistle ; eae-tward it assumes the name of Canong ite, and terminates a'. Holyi-ool P.tlace. Canongate was formerly a separate burgh, but it is now municipally, as well as for parliamentary representation, incorporatpd with Edinburgh. Many of the nobles of Scotland onca had residences in the Canon- gate, but it is now chietiy inhabited by the poo er cla'^sea. Here also are numerous public works. Tlie old burgh of Portsburgh to the south-west of the Old Town is now also i icorporated with the extended city.

The Old Town as well as the New Town is entirely built of stone ; but the grand and venerable appearance which it presents on a general view, or in its principal streets, is exchanged for an aspect of squalor and misei*y in many of its narrow closes or alh^ys, p'lrticularly those which descend In pai'allel lines from thy High street and Canonga'e on both sides where the population is still extremely dense ; and the great height and crowding of the buildings, in which many families dwell under one roof, ijrevtnts the free entrance of )ij;ht and air. The comprehensive scheme of improvement, calculated in 1867 to have cost the citizens about £300,000, which was proposed and matm-ed by the late Lord Provost, Dr. William Chambers, of Glenormi.-ton, has been completed. The operations cimsisted in ope ing up new and wide streets, widening some of the closes, and leaving open spaces where were many of the old houses unfit for human habitation. 8 vera 1 of the formerly crowded and squalid disricts have been cleared out, new streetsformed, and new houses erected, greatly to the sanitary and moral improvement of the localities. Up to the year 1887 about £553,000 had been expended in acquiring and removing old buildings, and interest on capital and other expenses, and there had been derived from the sale of sites in the ne:w streets £148,000, from the impro'em-nt rate £381,000, and from other s ^urces £30,000. Besides carrying out these beneficial improvements the Town Council has in many other ways aone much in recent yea''s to promote the public health and the ameni'y ' f the city. It may be noted that the Town Council have founded public baths at a capital expenditure of about £15,000 ; and that by the munificence of Mr. Andrew Carnegie, of New York (who gave £50,000 for the purpose), buildings are in course of erection for a Public Library, for the maintenance of which provis'on is made out of the borough rates.

The Cowgate is a narrow street of the Old Town, to the south of the High street, and nearly par.dlel to It, at the bottom of the ridge. The closes are more filthy and wretched than even those of the High street. Of the streets leading southwards from the High street, the two principal ones are cun-ied over the Cowgate by bridges. South Bridge street is the chief outlet from the city to the south. Its prolongation rec ives the name of J^icolson street, Clerk street, &c., and terminates in the road to Penicuik and Peebles. It id a street of good houses and shops, and in it are the University, Surgeons* Hall, and other fine buildings.

About the time (towards the close of the last century) that Ed'nburgh began to extend to the north, and the New 'low n to be biult, an extension to the south took p^ace, which, however, was soon arrested, acd of which the chief evidence is to be found in G-eorge square, c'osely adjacent to the densely-populated parts of the Old Town, but still the residence of some of the higher classes. For many years the town has been extending in every direction to the south. Newington, on the Pen-culk road, is a pleasant suburb, with many fine houses : the village of Morningside, more to the west, is incorporated with the town, and between Newington and Miirningside is the well-built Grange district, while to thfl west the district of Merchiston is covered with villa residences. 3 hese quarters have a milder climate than tha New Town, being shell ered from the cold and harsh easterly winds; and tJie view of the Pentland Hills, and of the country to the south and to the west, is very delightful. In like manner, but rather in connection with the New Town, the city hai recently extended westward, on the G-lasgow road, where Murraytield.a^ first a cluster of villas, at some distance from the city, may now be regarded as a suburb. Towards the north, also, the New Town is completely connected by groups of villas with G-ranton, Trinity, Newhaven, and Leith. There is now, indeed, to the mere ^IsiTor no perceptible Hne of demarcation between Edinburgh and Leith.

MONU.VENTS.— The monument to Lord Nelson, which stands on the highest rocky eminence, the Calton Hill, is a circular tower, in stages gradually diminishing 100 feet high ; Its base is 356 feet above the level of the sea. This is a conspicuous object from many parts of the city, and visitors are permitted to ascend it. Monu- ments to Professor Playfair and Professor Dugald Stewart are placed close together on the Calton Hill. There is also, on the southern side of the hill, near the High School, a monument of Burns; and in the Calton burjnng ground, a little to the west, is a monument to David Hume. The most striking feature of the Cialton Hill, however, is the national monument of Scotland, which way commenced in 1822, to commemorate our v ctories during the then late war, but was abandoned for want of funds; the twelve columns which decorate the summit of the Calton Hilt bearing the semblance of a ruin, are a'l there is to show for aD ex- penditure of £13^000— more than £1,000 a column. It 1» very

DIREOTORf

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EDINBURGHSHIRE!

genemllj regavded aa a monument of national folly. The founda- tion stone was laid by cominissiouers specially appointed by George IV. aa [atron. The original plan was to constructan edi- fice bearing same reaemblanc-e to the renowed Parthenon of Athens, by which the ** modern Athens "would be made more like the ancient. The liuest monument in Edinburgh, and one wiiich forms a remarkablrt object even in a general view of the city, is that to Sir Walter Scott. Itstauds in Princ:S street gardens, and is a beautiful structure, rising to tbe height of ISO feet, formed on the model of the monumental crosses ofthe middle ages. In the centre is a marble statue of Scott, witb one of his favourite do^ s at his feet, the work of Steell. The design ofthemon.iment is by George M. Kemp, a qelf-taught artist, who died during its erec.ion. In th'-) niches are figures of some of the principal characters of Scott's novels and poems. Tbe public are admitted to the galleries of the monument at a small charge, and the view from bliem is very fine. The foimdation stone ofthis monument was laid on 15th August, 1840 ; its inaagurat-iun took place in August, 1S4(5. The statueofCharlesII., in Parliament square,hasbfeu already noticed. In the cent'-e of St. Andrew square stands the elegant column erected by subscription, chiefly of naval officers, to the memury of the first Lord MelviUo ; this noble pillar, tlie design of wliiuh was copied chiefly from Trajan's column at Eome, was begun in April, 1821, and completed in August, 1822; the entire height ofthe pedestal and pillar is 136 feet 4 incht-s. and the statue ou the top

14 feet additional. Opposite the Royal Bank is a fine equestrian statue of the Earl of Hopetonn. In the same si^uare facing G:orge3tie-t, a group representing Alexander and Bucephalus was erected by subscription in 1834. The equestrian statue of the Buke of Wellington (by Steell) is placed in front ofthe Register Office, Princess reet. It was erected by public subscription, and represents the "Iron Duke" directing his forces on the field of battle. A fine bronze statue (by Ch mtrey) of William Pitt stands in the centre of George street, where ii is intersected by Frederick street; another statue by the same artist, of George IV., with royal r.»bes and sceptre, stands at a point wher-i George street and Hanover street cross. At tbe intersection of George street by Castle street, a statue of the Rev. Dr. Chalmers (by Steell) was erected in 1878. On the esiJlanade of the castle there is a Iironze statue of the Duke of York, uncle of her present Majesty, and also one of Colonel Mackenzie, C.B., who served for 42 years in the 92nd Highlanders, and who ditd in 1378. A fine monumental statue, erv:rc ed in honour of the second Lord Melville, occupies an open space in MelvilV street, in the western part of the New Town. There are also statues of Allan Ramsay, the poet, of John Wdson, the author of *' Noctos Ambroiianje," Alam Black, the publisher. Dean Ramsay, and Dr. Livingstone, the great Africin traveller. They stand in Princes street garden*, facing Princes street, not far from one another. At the east end of St. Colme street is the elegant Eleanor cross to the memory of the late Miss Catherine Sinclair, the authoress. The Martvrs' Monument, in the old Calton burying ground, is a tall obelisk, erectel !n 1845, to tlie memory of several gentlemen who were banished in 179S for advoca'ing parliamentary refoi-m. Tliereis also a beautiful n:onu- ment to Alexander Smith in Warrirton Ceme ery. In Charlotte square, at the end of George street, is the statue of H.R.H. Prince Albert, the inauguration of which took place in Augist, 1876, on the occasion of Her Majesty's visit to Edinburgh. This statue wa^ originated imme-liaiely after his death in December, ISiil. The design, by Sir John Steell, R.s. A., is that of an equestrian statue,

15 feet high, weighing eight tons, and oast in five pieces, on a granite pedestal, 17 feet in eevation, and 100 tons in weight. The Prince (as a field-marshal) is presumiblyretarning the salute ofthe V-dunteers, at the great review held in'the Queen's Park in 1860. The horse is modelled from one of the Duke of Bucc'euch's stud, and, viewed from St. George's Churc t, its handsome proportions, falling mane, and sweeping taU, effectively augment the conception of the portraiture. The total cost of the monu- ment as itstandi, with relative improvements in the square, was about £l6,.50o, of which £12 000 were available for the statue, and £-3,000 for the pedestal, which, although designed by Sir John Steell primarily, was architecturally proportioned by the late Mr. David Bryce, R.s. A. A recent addition t > the monuments of the city is that erected in West Parliament square to the late Duke of Bu cleuch by his many friends and admirers in all parts of Scotland. The memorial consists of an elaborate pedestal, with bas-reliefs and other bronze ornamentation and a colossal statue ofthe late Duke. The monument, designed by Rowland Anderson, hJj D., is ba ed on the mediaeval art of the fif eenth century. The plan of the pede talis a hexagon 10 feet 6 inches in diameter at the base, and 22 feel, high; the statue is 10 feet 6 inches high, so that the total height is 32 feet 6 inches. The bronze figure of the Duke in thei-obes ofthe Garter was the work of J. G. Boehm.R.A.. London. The lower historical panels were executed by Clark Stanton, r.s.a; the symbolic 1 figures byW. B. Rhind; the six panels, representing incidents in the life of the late Duke, by Stuar;, Burnett, A. R.s. A., and the bucks, the representation of the stag-hunt, Ac, by D. W. Stevenson, r.s. A., and W Grant Steven- son, RS.A. The total cost ofthe memorial was between £7,000 and £3.000.

Club Houses —The New Club is a superior building in Princes street, erected by an association of noblemen and gentlemen. The University Club, in Princes street, was erected in 1866-7 at a cost of nearly £14,000, and is in the ornate Italian style, with Grecian decoration. The Scottish Conservative Club and the Scottish Liberal Club have both fine buildings, also in Princes street. Tbe Caledonian United Service Club is situated in Queen street, and the Northern in George street.

The General Post anb Telegraph Office, erected on the site of the old Theatre Royal, at the end of Princes street, is a large and beautiful building in the Italian style, completed in May. 1366, at a cost of about £120,000. The foundation stone was laid by the late Princs Consort in 1361.

Thb Island Revenue Office occupi^ a spacioug building in Waterloo place.

The Register House Is the depositofy for the public records ancl registers of gpotland. The records of all suits at law, and the

various documents which have been produced in actions before the supreme courts, are also placed here; and in virtue of a late act, the parish registers of births and marriages have been collected here, whilst herein are deposited the returns of births, marriages, and deaths sent in by the registrars from all parts of Scotland. This establishment, important as it is, is almost peculiar to Scot- land. The collection of documents deposited here is Immense, and is, of course, ac-umulating ; but few are of ancient date, for the greater part of the papers relating to this kingdom prior to the Restoration were carried away, at a very early perioj, by Edward I., and at a later era by Cromwell ; and a considerable portion of those that were suffered to remain were unfortunately lost, or destroyed in cousequenee of a fire in 1700. The most ancient state papers in this house are the letter of the Scottish barons to the Pope in 1320, and the acts of settlement of the Scottish crown upon the Stuarts in 1371 and 1373. Tho building is situated at the east end of Princes street, fronting the North bridge; it was planned by Robert Adam, and is a fine specimen of the Italian style. The fronta.ge is 200 feet, and the width 120 ; the extended front is relieved by a pediment and Corinthian pilasters above the entrance. The structure is square, with a circular ealoon in the centre, surmounted by a lead-covered dome.SO leet in diameter. The Register House was finished in 1322, and the cost was defrayed in part by a grant from George III. of £12,000, arising from the sale of forfeited estates, and the remainder by the Government, which also provided for its maintenance. The front of the building is ornamented by an equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, by Steell. Behind the principal building is a new one, additional to it, also in the Italian style, completed in 1360, which cjst £26,440. The supreme manager is termed the depute clerk register. In consequence of the greatly increased demand for space to transact the offiiial business belonging to this important department of fihe public service, a very large addition was made immediately behind the site of tbe house where once Hogg, the Etiriuk shepherd, Christopher North, and their jovial companions were wont to meet, and at which place the scene of the famous " Noctes Ambrosiauie' is laid.

The Royal Exchange Is in High street;. It was founded in 17n'5 and completed in 1761, at a cost of upwards of £31,000. It is quadrangular, and surrouiid'jd with offices, among which are thd City Council Chamber , the Magistrates Court Room, and a number of municipal oflSces.

The Coltnty Buildings stand near the Parliament House, afe the corner of the H gh street and of George TV. bridge, a street which trtkes its name from a bridge ov. r tbe Cowgate. The general plan is taken from one of the finest models of antiquity — the temple of Erectheus, in Athens— while the principal entrance is in the style of the choragic monument of Thrasyllus. The length of the eastern front is nearly one hundi-ed and three feet, and of the northern front fifty seven. The principal floor contains a large hall, fifty feet in length and twenty-seven in breadth ; a courtroom, fort^ -four feet lun{<, thirty ftet wide, and twenty- eight feet high, a committee- room, &c. Above at e offices for the sheriff, sheriff clerks, &c. The building was finished in 1819, at an expensy of £15,000. The County Buildings having been found insufficient, a btautiful new builduigwas erected in 1S63, a little to the south, on Ge; rge IV. bridge, for the sheriff's com-t. It is in the It-alian style of architectm-e, and cost upwards of £44:,^ 00.

Fuel, Water, &c.— Edinburgh is now well supplied with coal; the different railway companies, the Union Canal, and the neigh- bouring pits constantly pouring in an ample qua:itity for the large consumption The cit^' receives a copious supply of water from the Pentland and Moorfo t Hills, where reservoirs have been constructed from which it is brought by pipes. The supply is coasfant, and almost entirely of the finest spring water; itis undci the management of trustees elected by Edinburgh, Leith, and Portobello. No city has purer water than Edinburgh; srarcely a trace of organic matter can be detected in it. There is a large reservoir in the ciiy, on the Castle Hill, for the purpose of regulating the constant service. The water company was incor- porated in 1819. and was transferred to thd water trust in IS70. (?din' m-gh is illuminated with gas. produced by two companies, the works of one of which are situated in Edinburgh, not far from the palace of Holyruod, those of the other at Liith, supplying Leith as well as Edinburgh.

Trade —Edinburgh possesses but few manufactures ; still there are Si me departments in which it may justly boast a superiority. Printing and publishing are carried on to a considerable extent, and many valuable works of the age have emanated from the Edinburgh press The making of paper machinery, type foimding, and the manufacture of gas and water meters, iron and wire fencing, inda-rnbber goods, vulcanite, &c., are all branches of importance. Edinburgh ale has long been famous, and there are many extensive breweries in the city, that aend immense quantities to all parts of the world.

In Banking Edinburgh takes a high place, and her banking establlsiiments are conducted with a sagacity and accuracy which have Fecured for them great succ ss ; their branches are spread all over 8 otland, and sub-offices have also been opened iu the city it-elf. The banks have commodious and many of them splendid buildings. The Bank of Scotland, in Bank street, the Commercial, the Union, and thn Clydes- dale Banks In George street, the British Linen Company and the Royal Bank of Scotland, in St. Andrew square, are par- ticularly worthy of notice as fine buildings. The Bank of Scotland occupies a very conspicuous place, looking down upon the valley which separates the Old Town from the New. It is one of the many noble a chiteotural ornaments of a scene, which, as viewed from Princes street, from tlie Mound, and from many other points is one of the most striking and beautiful that any city can boast. Except the Bank of Scotland, all the others have their principal s'ats of business in the New Town. The Bank of Scot- land is the oldest banking compaiy in Scotland, and thus naturally assumed the name which it still bears ; but it has nothing of that character of a national Institution which the Bank of England in some measure possesses. It was established, however, by act of parliament (the parliament of Scotland), in 1(395. Next to it in ftnti

EDINBURGHSSIRE

EDINBURGH

SLATER'S

quity is the Royal Bank of Scotland, incorporated by royal charter in 1727. The British Lineo Company, now merely a bank, but at Jirst also eugaged in the linen trade, was incorporated by royal charter In \7-i6. After this came the C 'mraercial B.ink, established in 1810. and the National Bank of Scotland, established in 1825. The Union Bank of Scotland, established in 1630, and ini;orpoi-ated by act of parliament in 1362. is the representative of several banks, one of which was originally a compmy engaged not oaly in banking, but in the tobacco trade, and wai founded in Edin- burgh not very long after the Royal Bank. After it had be^-ome a mere banking company, it was long one of the chief banks of Edinburgh, under the nime of Sir William Forbes and Co. Having united with a Glasgow bank, it assumed its present name, and it has hrad offices both in Edinburgh and Glasgow. The Clydesdale Bank Limited, a Glasgow banking company of recent origin, and having its head office in Glasgow, represents in Edin- burgh the Edinburgh and Leith Bank afterwards, in consequence of a union, known a^ the Edinburgh and Glasgow Bank.

The Union Bank has the greatest authorise . note circulation of any bank in Scotland, £4.54,yW. Next to it is the British Linen Company, £-i:i8,034, The authorisedcirculationof the Commercial Bank is £374,880 ; that oi the Bank of Scotland is £34:3.418 ; ot the Royal Bank, £216,451; the National Bank, £397,024; aud the Clydesdale Bank, £274,321. The averageaetual circulation, based in part, under Sir Robert Peel's Act of 1 -iH, on the coin held by the banks, is £5,164,160. The price of stock or shares of all the banks gives proof of their prosperity. The banking business of Glasgow lain great part conducted by thebanks having their head offices in Edinbu gh, as is also that of all the provincial towns of Scotland. The Scottish banking companies were at one time far more numer- ous, but the tendency of late has been towards the incorporation of the minor banks with the great banks of Edinburgh and Glasgow.

In fire and life aasurances there are many establishments of high standing, having branches in the principal towns of the United Kingdom, and who have commodijusand many of them splendid buildings. Amongst these may be mentioned, the S 'ottish Widows' Fund, the Life Association of Scotland, the Scottish Provident Association, the Standard, the Caledoniau, the Edinburgh, the Scottish Union and National, the North British and the English an 1 Scottish Law Life Insurance Companies. The amount of business in life assurance and annuities done by the Edinburgh companies is very great; their aggregate income is cousiderably over five millions sterling, and theii- funds over forty millions sterling, and there ii not one of them of which the stability is not perfectly unquestionable

From Edinburgh there are many means of transit to all parts of the United Kingdom, by rail, road, sea, and inland navigation. There are two railway stations in Edinburgh— that of the North British Company, between Princes street and the Old Town, and that of the Caledonian Company, at the west end of Princes street. Prom the former of these stations lines radiate in all directions, except to the south-west, to which those of the Caledonian Com- pany chiefly extend. Extensive railway systems, with many branch lines, belong to both companies. A valuable means of "water carriage is furnished by the Union Canal, between Edin- burgh and Glasgow, joining the Great Canal nearLarbert, but the traffic on it has much diminished since the opening of railways. The basin of the canal is situated about half a mile south-west of the Castle, and is called PortHopetoun.

MUNICIPAL, LEGAL, AND NATIONAL INSTITUTIONS AND COURTS OP LAW.

The administration oF the municipal and police aj^airs of the city of Edinburgh is vested in the Town Council, consisting of forty-one members. Of this number, one (the Dean of Guild) is annually returned by the Guild brethren ; one (the Dea-con Convener) is annually returned by the Incorporated Trades, and thirty-nine are appointed by popular election — three for each of the thirteen waris into which the city is divided. The Council appoints from the ward-elected members a lord provost, six bailies, and a city treasurer. The Lird Provost is Lord-Lieutenant of the county of the city, and his office, as respects dignity and duties, resembles that of the Lord Mayor of London, while the functions of the bailies are analogous to those of the aldermen. Of the ward-elected members of Council one-third part must retire annually, but the Lord Provost and the City Treasurer hold their offices for three years from the time of appointment. The magistrates of Edinburgh hold criminal and civil courts, and along ■with- the Midlothian Sheriffs are judges in the pnliee couvt. The Dean of Guild presides in the Dean of Guild Court whiuli exercises jurisdiction in matters relating to ihe erection, alteration and sanitary arrangement of buildings, and is possessed of considerable powers for ensuring the public safety in regard to removal or reconstrudiion of insecure and dangerous buildings within the city. The City Treasurer is chairman of the Trea urer's or Finance Committee, and represents in the Town Council the financial department of the Corporation busine s. Of the principal oflicers of the Corporation there are — the Town Clerk, ■who is the Council's secretary and the recorder of its minutes ; the City Chamberlain, who has the accounting with the C amcil's revenues (about £250,000 a year) ; and the City Assessors, who are the legal advisers of the judges in the several city courts. There ■were formerly fourteen incorporated trades in the city, but now there are only thirteen, the Surgeons and Barbers (who had a '* seal of cause" from the Town Council in 1505) having ceaseti to exist as an incorporation connected with the city trades. The following are the thirteen exis ing incorporations: — 1. The Goldsmiths, formerly attached to the Hammermen, were con- stituted in 1581, and have their hall in South Bridge street. 2. The Skinners or Glovers were incorporated in 1586. 3. The Furriers were constituted by Act of Council, in 1593. 4 The Hammermen were incorporated in 1433, and consisted at first of blacksmiths, goldsmiths, lorimers, saddlers, cutlers, and armoorers, but the goldsmiths were separated from tliem in

1581 ; they meet in the Chapel of" St. Mary Magdalen, in the Cowgate. 5 and 6. The Wrights and Masons were constituted in 1475. but by a decree of the Court of Session in 1703 the bowmakers, glaziers, plumbers, and upholsterers were added to the masons ; and to the wrights were attached ihe paintei-s, slaters, slevewrights, and coopers; this in orporation is known also by the title of ihe United Incorporation of St. Mary's Chapel. 7. The Tailors were incorporated in loOO. 8. The Bakers were in existence as a corporate body before 1532, but the exact period of their constitution is unknown. 9. The Flashers (or butchers) were incorporated before 148a. 10. The Cordwainers (or shoemakers) in 14i9. 11. The Websters (or weavers) in 1475. 12. The Waulkers (or cloth workers) were incorporated in 150i>, and the Hatters were united with them in 1672. 13. The Bonnetmakers were in- corporated in 1530, and in 1640 the trade of Lilstcr (or dyer) was united with them. The Candlemakers were chartered by the magistrates in 1517, although they are not one of the incorporated trades, and have no vote in the election of the Deacon Convener. Scottish trade incorporations formerly possessed exclusive rights of trading within their respective burghs, but these privileges were abolished by stiitute in lt;4ti. The incorporated trades or ■cratts- meu " of Edinburgh possess considerable properties and funds, and they maintain and manage an institution (the Maiden Hospital) for the education and bringing of daughters of freemen craftsmen.

Before the Scottish Burgh Reform Act, passed in 1833, the Corporation of Kduiburgh was of a close character, though not altogether without an admixture of popular representation. The city has since been divided into thirteen wards for municipal and parliamentary elections. Prior to the Redistribution of Seats Bill Edinburgh returned two members to PariiamenI, but on the pass- ing of that Bill the city was separated into four divisions, and was given two additional representatives. The gentltmen at present sitting are— East Division, Robert Wallace, Esq.; West Division, Thomas R. Buchanan, Esq. ; Central Division, William M'Ewan, Esq. ; South Division, Right Hon. H. C. E. Childers. The county of Midlothi;in, which returns one member, is re- presented by the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone. The Police Establishment was remodelled in 1822, and several important changes have been made in it since from time to time. When the boundaries of th'^ city were extended in 1832, a considerable addition was made. 'Ihe police force now numbers 445 men. The chief police office is situated in High-street, and there are eight sub-offices in different parts of the city, two of these being handsome buildings in West Port and Causewayside. A Police Court is held daily, the judges being the bail. es and the sheriff substitute, who preside in alternate months. A Burgh Court is held daily, presided over by justices of the peace for the county of the city of Edinburgh. The Lock-np House is at the back of the Parliament House, and is for the reception of offenders uuder examination. The Oanongate Tolbooth might have been mentioned among tbe relics of antiquity. It is agljomy but picturesque building, of the end of the 16bh century, with corner turrets, a small spire, a clock fixhid in a wooden projection, and an outside stair. Her Majesty's prison is situated oi) the south side of the Calton Hill, it originally consisted of a bridewell and the governors house, both of which were of the peculiar early English castellated style, designed by the celt brated Mr. Adam upon Jeremy Bentham's principle, and founded 30th November, 1791. About 1817 an additional .block of the same st^Jle and also a new house for the governor were erected on the west side of the bridewell. About 1S46, a block of the later Norman castellated style, from designs by Brown, was erected on the east side of the bridewell. In 18S2 the bridewell was demolished, and two new blocks of a style in harmony with the erections of 1817 and 184t:» have been built partly on the site of the old bridewell Further alteraions have lately been completed, and it now contains about 5U0 cells.

CouKTa OF Law AND Legal Institutions.— College of Justice. — The legal profession is divided into the following classes = —1, Thirteen Judges of the Court of Session, styled Lords of Session; 2, Advocates (barristers) who possess the privilege of plea^h'ng before every court in Scotland, and also in Scotch appeals before the House of Lords ; 3, Writers to the Signet (similar to solicitors in England), Solicitors before the Supreme Courts, Advocates' First Clerks, Solicitors-at-Law, and Chartered Accountants. These three cla^ises form the College of Justice.

The Court of Sessioyi and Teind Cowrt— The Coui't of Session, the highest civil court in Scotland, originally consisted of 14 judges and a president, one half of the judges and the president being churchmen, and the king having the privilege of appointing three or four peers or lords of his grt-at council to sit and vote with the lords of session. Ecclesiastics were appointed judges, even after Ihe Reformation. Till 1803 the judges all sat in one court; but it was then divided into two separate courts, known as the First Division and the Second Division, which, how- ever, might be brought together in cases of difficulty. In 1^10 the junior judges were appointed to sit separately as Lords Ordinary, each trying cases in the first instance. In 1830 the number of judges was reduced to 13, and so it continues. The Lords Ordinary are five in number, forming what is called the Outer House ; The First Division and Second Division, cons'sting of four judges each, form the Inner House. The Lord President presides over the First Division and over the united court ; the Lord Justice Clerk over the Second Division. The Lords Ordinary may be called in to take parr hi the hearing of a case in the whole court. Cases may be carried from the lords ordinary to the Inner House, but only to that division of it to which tbe Lord Ordinary is attached who tried the case in the first instance. The junior Lord Ordinary acts as Lord Ordinary of bilN, disposing of summary petitions and business requiring spc'-ial despatch ; but during the vacations of the court this office is taken by all the judges i;i rotation, except the Lord President and the Lord Justif.e Clerk. The judges of the Court of Session are appointed for life, and are always memhera of the Faculty of Advocates, They assume titles like those of peers, prefixing lord either to their surname or to the name of an estate. The judgment of the Court of Session may be appealed to the House

DIRECTORY

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of LordB. In 1815 trial by j iry was introduced in civil cases in Bcotliind, to the extent of deciding as to matters of fae, and fixing the amount of damages. Jury trials are presided over by oiieorinoreof the judgesof the Court of Session, The .jury in civil cases consists of 12 jurymen, and a unanimo.JS verdict is received at once ; but it they cannot all agree, the ver 'ict of a majority of u ne is received after a certain time. The Teind Court is lield every alternate Wednesday during term, and has (lie power of regulating and enforcing the payment of tithes or teinda ; for the clergy cannot themselves exact their liihes, which are obtained from the landowners, and not from the tenants ; itia through themet^iumof this court only they receive them. It belongs to this court to determine the amount of stipend which the clergyman of each parish sha 1 receive out of the teinds of that paiish, granting augmentations from time to time, when the teinds are not already exhausted. The judges of the Inner Hou e ot thn Court of Session and one Lord Ordinary are the judges of this court.

The IJiyh Court of Justiciary is the supreme criminal court, and is presided over by the Lord Justice General, which offtce Is held by the Lord President of the Court of Session. Next to him, ami really the first acting judge, is the Lord Just ce Clei k, subordinate lo whom are five other judges, who are aUo Lords of Session. At stated times, the Lords of Justiciary proceed on circuits, holding coui'ts in different towns The Lord Advocate is the public prosecutor, and by him actions are raised in this court, according t • his disctetiou. The causes which come before this court are t ied by a jury of 15 persons, a majority of whom decide the same, from which there is no appeal.

The Solicitors before ike Supreme Court, as an association, were first publicly acknowledged in 1754, by an act of seieruntof the Court ot Session, in which were set forth rules for their direction ; these rules were altered and improved by another act in 1772. In 17!>7, they obtained a royal charter, which erected them into a body corporate, by the title Solicitors in the Court of Session, the High Court of Justiciary, and the Commission of Teinds. Mem- bers of this corporation are required to attend three classes of the Scotch law and conveyancing, previous to admission.

Solicitors-at-Law w-re incorporated by royal charter 1780. They formerly practised before tiie Sheriff dmmissary and City Courts, of which they had a monopoly ; but all are now entitled to prac- tise before the supreme and inferior courts like other law agents. Entrants or candidates for admission are required to serve a regular apprenticeship with a member of the incorpnration, and, after going through a private examination formally before the Society, and jiow similar to other law agents, are admitted. In 1834, the Society obtained an act of parliament by which, after providing an annuity of £52to each widow of all past or present members of the society, the funds are to be divided among the present members. The present privileges of members to practise in the courts are reservf d by the private statute.

Hkerilf Court of Edinburgh.— l!\iQ courts are held intheSteriff Court, George IV. bridge. A court for the Leith district is held in the Sheriff Court-room, Constitution street, Leith, on Tuesday at 10 o'clock in each week dm-ing the sessions of court. The Leith district includes the parishes of South Leith, North Leith, and Duddingaton (excepting that part of the parish of South Leith . which is within the parliamentary boundaries of Edinburgh)- Appeals are taken by the Sheriff every Wednesday at 12 o'clock, and an ordinary court is held every Tuesday at 12 o'clock, and every Friday ac 11 o'clock during session. A Sheriff Small Debt Court for the county of Edinburgh is held within the Sheriff Court, Edinburgh, every Wednesday, at 10 o'clock; and for the Leith district every Tuesday at 10.15 o'clock, within the Slieriff Court-room, Leith, during the sessions of court. Allcivil causes are competent in these courts for any debt or demand not exceed- ing the sum of £12 sterling. Summonses are issued for these courts daily at the respective clerks' offices, George IV. bridge, Edinburgh, from 10 till 4, and Constitution street, Leith, from 11 till 3.

The Commissary Cowrf.— Since the year 1830, the duties which this court formerly performed have been transferred to the Court of Session ; still, however, a commissary and three deputies take cognisance of testaments of persons dying abroad, having property in Scotland.

The Court of Exckeqtier.— This court, which till recently was presided over by the chief baron and three ordinary barons, has midergone such a change as to be virtually abolished. The duties are now performed by certain judges of the Court of Session, in rotation.

The Lyon Court, which is nearly obsolete, formerly regulated state pageants, executed the writs of supreme courts, and decided ujjon armorial bearings. In the execution of the duties still re- maining, the "Lord Lyon" is assisted by a body of messengers- at-arms, heralds, and pursuivants.

The Faculty of Advocates. —The members of this society occupy a position similar to that of barristers in England. It appears to have been instituted about the sain e time as tlie College of Justice (1532), and was at first limited to ten memt ers. Although candi- dates for admission are not required to follow any prescribed course of preparatory study, they must produce one of certain University degrees field as qualify ing, or pass a tolerably strict examination— first on general echolarsliip, and then, after a lapse of a year, on civil law, international law, and on the laws of Scot- land. An advocate, when admitted, is privileged to plead in any court in Scotland (unless debarred by special statute, as in the Small Debts Acts), and also before the House of Lords. It is from this 3 jciety that the bench is supplied with judges, and that the sheriffs of counties are selected. Though possessing no charter of incorporation, it has always exercised corporate privileges, by electing its own office-bearers, the principal of whom is the presinent, or, as he is styled, the Dean of Faculty. The library, which is by far the largest, as well as the most valuable, in Scot- land, will be described hereafter.

The Writers to the Signet are an impoiiant body, who have the sole right of passing warrants under the seal or signet of the reigning monarch, in order to render them valid; in addition to

lA — Se-a-n

which they act as conveyancers, and as attorneys in the supreme courts. This body, besides its other fauctionarles, has a professor of conveyancing m the University of Edinburgh. The qualifica- tion for admission is an apprenticcsliip for five years ; and the age fur entering into indenture not. uuder seventeen, provided always that where an applicant for indenture is not under the age of nineteen and holds a degree in Law, or in Arts, of a University of Great Britain or Ireland, granted after examination, the period of indentiu-o may be three years. The members of this body amount to ovetoTO; they have a valuable library, and an ample fund for widows.

The Justice of Peace Court is of no earlier origin in Scotland than 1609, The Justices are empowered to judge in cases of breaches of the p- ace ; to regulate highways, bridges, and ferries ; to iee the laws executed against vagrants, beggars, transgressors of the game laws, and frauds against the revenue, besides many other brandies of jurisdiction. But the principal business of the justices in Edinburgh comes before them as a court for a speedy settlement of debts un.ier Ho, commonly called the Small Debt Court, which sits weekly in Edinburgh, and at longer intervals in the different villages of the country.

The Convention of the Royal Burghs, instituted byJamf-sJII., met-ts annually in Edinburgh, and consists of a commission and assessors from each burgh. The Lord Provost of Edinburgh is perpetual president, and the city clerk of Edinburgh is clerk of the convention. The Court had considerable powers until the passingot theBurgh Eeform Act, butis now much like a national Chamber of Commerce. The place of meeting of the annual con- vention is ihe Court-room of the High Coi.rt of Justiciary, when held in Edinburgh, and the committets meet in the Ediuburgh Council Chambers.

RELIGIOUS EDIFICES,

- Church of Scotlamd.

The parochial churches of Edinburgh are erected and maintain* d out of the funds of the burgh; from the same source, and from the tort dues at Leith and Port Hopetoun the stipends of the ministers are derived. There are thirteen parishes, of which the ministers receive a stipend of JEtiuo a year, within what was the old parish of Edinburgh ; whilst St. Cuthbert's, or the West Church and the Canongate, also old (arishtis, are provided with stipends from other sour«es. t-everal churches have also been erected by voluntary subscription, the ministers of which are main- tained without buriien to the funds of the <-ity. It will be enough to notice only those ecclesiastical edifices which are most Important, as architectural features of the city, or from historic associatiuns.

St. G^iiKS's Cathedral.— This spacious and venerable metro- politan church stands on an elevated site, in the High-street, forming one side ot Parliament-square, and before the alterations and repairs, which took place between 1830 and 18;i2, its shape was cruciform, and its dimensions as follow: Length from east to west, 206 feet ; breadth at the centre, 12lrt feet ; at the west end, 110 feet; and at the east, 76 feet. A square tower rises from the centre, surmounted by a crown formed of intersecting richly- ornamenttd arches ; from the apex of the crown springs a small spire, the summit of which is 101 feet in height, and may bo seen from a great distance. The renovation of the church has altered a little its original form, as well as its dimensions. Of St. (xUes, the patron saint, little more is known than that he was born in Greece, iu the sixth century, and died in Prance. On© of his arm bones, enshrined in silver, was deposited in the church, which was erected in the fifteenth century, on the site of the tormer parish church of Edinburgh. It was made a collegiate church by James IJI., in 1466. and was partiiloned into four chm'ches after the Eeformation, when it w»8 appr.ipriated to the Presbyterian wor:^hip then established. When episcopacy was introduced into the Protestant Church of Scotland, and Charles I. made Edinburgh a bishopric, which it had never been in Koman Catholic times, this was made the cathedral. Since 1683 it has been used for the worship of the Scottish Estab- lished Church. It U proper to mention that the (xovernment contributed £12,00U towards the alterations made in 1830-2. St. Giles's has been the scene of important historical events. Here John Knox preached ; and here James VI. bade farewell to his Scottish subjects, before his departure to take possession of the throne of England. Here Jenny Geddes struck the first blow at the episcopacy of Laud when she hurled the old stool on which she had been sitting at the head of the dean as he began to read from the book of Common Prayer. It waa in this church also that the solemn league and covenant was signed by a commii tee of the Scottish Parliament and the English Commissioners in 164.1. In 1871 a restoration (committee was appointed, with Dr. William Chambers as chairman. The object of the comniittee was eventually to restore, as far ai practicable, the interior ot St. Giles ; but to effect this step by step, as circumstances permitted ; and to confine operations in the first place to the choir. In June, 1872, when the subscriptions for the above object had reached £2,000, the committee, with the consent of the authorities con- cerned, commenced the work. The galleries were wJiolly removed, thereby developing the fine old pdlars, which were mended with etone to resemble the original. The baldachino, and the furniture of the royal pew, were taken away ; and the pews and the pulpit were removed. Under the direction of Mr. W, Hay, MTchitect, the passages were laid with Minton tiles, bearing antique Scottish devices. A pulpit of Caen stone, exquisitely carved by Mr. John Rhind, an Edinburgh sculptor, was placed against the pillar on the south side nearest the east window. All the seatings are of oak. The royal seat is in the form of a throne of most elaborate workmanship of carved oak. The lower part of the throne, to the height of four feet, is partly close panelled, with ornamental Gothic tracerv, and partly open traceiy and carving, surmounted with a delicately-carved cornice. On the inside the seat and back to this height are stuffed and covered with dark crimson morocco leather. The back of the throneabove

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this is elaborately panelled with Gothic tr^c^ry in various fur.iis of foliation, several of the compartments having shields with royal and national devices. A hir^e circular panel in tlie iippei* portion contains the ancient royal arms of Scotland— viz. : the lion rampant on a double tressured shield, with the unicorns as supporters. The sides of the throne are of open iraeeried panels, with stiles supported wir.h clustered but resses and crocketed pinnacles. There is tlien another cawed cjvnicj. Over this is the canopy, of a po ygoual pla i, with elaborately groined soffit, having ribs and carved bosses at the intersections. The canopy is about U feet in height. The panels are separated by stiles hiving crockyted pinnacles. These are prolonged be'ow the base of the canopy, and give Siipporb to a series of cupped arches, which add gre-itly to the effect of the design. At ea h end of the throne ar^ five stalls for those in immediate ar tendance on Royalty or the H'gh Commissioner, ami between these stalls and the throne are seats for the pages. The stalls are constructed like the ordinary stalls of a cathedral, wiih panelled and traceried fronts supporting the book boards, and behind the s'alls, ai^ainst the wall, is a beauti- fully panelled reredos with carved -^O' nice. TIir reading or pray.-r desk in front of the thron i is a very handsome piece of work. The book-board ia supported by two sidi^s or " hiff^-t-'," over l.hree inelies thick, the edges moulded and carved, the upper parts having carved angelii- figures in support. The front is an elaborate panel of open trac:n*y. The whole s andsupona platform thirty- two feet long by eit;lit feet six inches wide, elevated lour feet above the iloor of the church. There has also been erected, for the inoumhent and tho royal chaplains, a series of seven stal^ in oak, which are placed against the ea t wall, under the stone reredos, and behind the communion table. They are of the ordinary form of cathedral stalls. The ends and divisions are beauiifuily pan'^Ued and carved. The low screen in front i; generally of open tracery, with the except'on of the lower panels which ar3 exquisitely carved, and a-'e really works of art. The SL'r^ien is divided into compartments by standards opposite each stall division, with small pillars having carved caps and bases. The cope of the divisions rises above t'le book boarJ, the ends ter.ninating in carved bases. In 1879 a similar pr.icess of restorxtion was effected through the munilicence of Dr. William Chambers, the eminent publisher, on th^* s uitbern section of the church embra-'ing the Preston and Montrose and Chepman aisles ; the latter built by William Chepman, the Scott sh Caxton. Here many characteristic ft^atares of fifteenth cen'ury art were diselosed. including a finely groined roof in both aislea; several anfnent coats of arms ; various eUiborately carved pillars, theba^'es and capitals of which wer-in wonderful preservation, al:.hough the pillars themselves had been very much mutilated by the retoration of 1829; a mural slirine dedicated to the passion of Christ, and other interesting objects. Within 'he Chepman aisle stands now abaptismal font, in Gacn-stone, by Rbind, Edinburgh, on the model of Thorwaldsen's famous work at Copenhagen, 'ihe stained glass windows in the choir are the work of Ballantine and Son, EJinbirgb. The restoration of the entir'^ remaining portion of th^ building was co npl-ted in 1383. The publie having subscribed ten thousand pounds to provide a new church for West St. G-iles's ongregation, which worshipped in a part of the building, the late Dr. Chambers munificently undertook and completed the work at his own expense. On the east wall of the Montrose aisle is the re ■ently erected memorial to the memory of t'le famous MarquisoE Montrose, who distinguished himself in the cause of royalty during the civil war wdiich preceded the Restoration. The monument is in the Renaissance style of the seventeenth century, the principal feature in the design beinga semicircular arch deeply recessed, having in the recess a sarcophagus of a highly ornate character, with black marble bier carrying the recumbent figure of the Mai-quis in white marblo. The monument, whicii stands 16 feet high, and measures 9 feet across, 0)st about £1,000, defrayed mainly by sub-criptions from members of the clan Graham, The designs were prepared by Dr. Rowland Anderson, architect, and the work was executed in coloured marbles and alabaster by Mr. Rhint, sculptor.

New and Old Ghkyfriars Churchk=. — The old Greyfriars Church, wh'ch is situated not far from the Grassmarket, was founded in the ye.ir 1612, where formerly stood a monastei-y of the Fran'dseans or Greyfriars. In 1''5 'the interior o' the church was burned by Cromwell's soldiers. The spire, which was used as a powder ma =azine, was unfortunately destroyed by an explosion on the 7th of May. 1718. The magistrates built a new church at the western end of the old one in 1721, at the expense of £3.045. The old church was burnt, in consequence of the overheating of a flue, in 1S45, bnt has since been rehu'It. It was in old Greyfriars Church , and i n the churchyard adjacent, th ^t the K ational Covenant wa'^ signed in 1638.

The Tron Church, so c 'Ued from a tron or weighing mar-hine which at one time stood near it, and to which, in former times, it was customai\y to nail false notaries and other ma'efactors by the ears, is situated in the Eigh street, at the corner of South Bridge street. An mscriptiou on the doorway informs the reader that it was formerly called Chri-t Church, and consecrated in 1647. The front, towards High street, is hindsome, with a main and two side doorways, with semi-Gothic windows, and thebase of a turret in the centre, ornamented with pilasters. The original steeple was destroyed hy fire In 1824, and the present very ornamental one was erected on 182S.

Lady Tester's Chuhcit, in Infirmary street, was originally fo mded in 1647, principally by the munificence of Margaret Kerr, La ly Tester. It was taken down in 1S03, and the present elegant Gothic building was erected on its site.

CanonctAte Church, a Gothic building In the form of a cross fonnded in 16S8, wag built at the expense of £2,400, from a legacy left by Tliomas Moodie. a pious citizen of Edmburgh. This church has two mmisters, one nominated by the crown, the other by the Town Council and inhabitants of Canongate. Many distinguished p'^rsons repose in the churchyard ; Adam Smith, Bugald Stewart, and Ferguson the Poet, among the number. The gravestone of the la*:ter was placed here by the poet Burns. !

10

St. Cuthbert's Chukch, or the West Kirk, situ-ited near the tase of the r ck on wliich the easily stauds, is a plain building with a spire. It has two tiers of galleries The burial ground is spacious, and many of the monuments are costly,

St. Andrew's Church stands on the nor. h side of George street, in the New Towu. It is surmounted with a fine tapering spire, 168 feet high, in which is a chime of eight belli. The whole is elegantly finished. The church is an oval. It has an historical celebrity, as the scene of the disruption ot the Church of Scotland, which took place at the meeting of the General Assembly on the 18th May, 1843. It tontains a fine organ.

Sr. George's Chu«ch, on the west, side of Charlotte square, forms the terminalirjg object of George street. The dome, which IS seen to advantage iu almost ev^ry direction, was intended as a miniature repre.-entation of that of St. Paul's, London. The build- ing co^t £3'i,U0o, and ia calculated to contain 1,6U0 people. It was erected iu 1814.

St. Mary's Church, in Bellevue crcscent, was erected In 1824, atacost of £14,0U0. It has a Curinthian portico and an elegant spire 186 feet high. The church will contain 1,800 people.

St. Stephen's Church stand-in St. Vincent street; its archi- tecture is in the mixed Roinan style, its sba.je octagonal, with a tower 163 feet high. It was erected in 1838, and cjst 4;2.5,000, and will accommodate l,6i'0 hearers.

Tkinity College Established Church, on the south side of Jeffrey s:ieet, was huUt in 1871-2, alter designs by Mr. Lessells. It lias a tower and sp re 115 teet high, and is largely CTnstructtd of the materials of old Trinity CoUe ,e Church, situated at the foot of Leith wynd. which was founded in 1462 by Ma'y of Gu- Idres.

There are altogether twenty-six pl:iC2s of worship belonging to the Church of Scotland in Edinburgh, of which tbrte have two ministers each.

The AssiDMULY Hall of theEstab!i:^hed Church, also ca'Ied the Victoria Hatl or Victoria Church, is one of the noblest buildings in Edinburgh. It wash alt in 1814, and ost £16,' 00. It hasalo ty and extremely be.iutiful spire, and occupies a commanding situa- tion on the Castle Hill, fronting the Lawumarket. It is the place of meeting of the Geneial Assembly.

Scottish Episcopal Chubch.

This communion possesses many places of worsliip in EdinbLirgb, s veral of which are very fine buildings. The service is conducted after the ritual of the Church of England, ScoL^land is divided hy this body into seven dioceses, over which pre ide the same number of bishops. Ihe clergy are mainly supported from the produce of the pew rents.

St. Mary's Cathedral, Manor p'acc, is one of the most important ecclesiastical buddiTigs erected in this country since the Reformation. The architect, the late Sir Gilbert Scott, founded his design on the early pointed style. The plan consists of choir, transept and nave, with noith and south aisles terminating In tower.- (incomplete) at the west ; central tower and spire 29u feet in height ; transepts with east and west aisle , and choir of four hays, with north and south aisles. Excepting the great rose windows in nave and transept gables the windows are all of lancet form, an 1 the general cliaracter of Lh-^ building is simple and m:i3sive, though vtry rich indela'l. The chief portal at the west end of the nave and that in the south transept are very elabo- rately treated. Internally the length is 278 feet, and the breadth (taken ai-T033 thenav- and aisles) 76 feet. The aisles throughout, as well as the central crossing and choir, are vaulted in stone and concrete. The vaulting at the east end of the choir is remarkable as springing (as in an apse) from between the three equal lancets of the great west window. Tiie nave and transepts are vaulted in oak with richly moulded ribs and car.ed bosses; and in these parts of th-i church the triforium is open, but in the choir closed. Tlie choir stalls are under the crossing, which is raised and severed from the nave by a low screen of marble and mosaic. The reredos is of alabaster, containing a marble group representing the Crucifixion O^y Mis ■ Grant). The font (under the south-west tower) is plain, but of alabast^^. The organ (4 manuals, by Willis) stands in the north transept. There are a number of stained glass memorial windows by Kempe, Burlington and Grylls, and Clayton and Bell. The tow^r contains ten hells. The cathedral is seated for 2,000, about three-fourths of the seats being free. The funds for the erection of this noble building (about £100.000) were derived from a bequest of two ladic, the 1 ite Mis-es VTalker, of Coates. The foundation-stone was laid by the Duke of Buccleuch on the 2 1st May. 1H74, and the opening ceremonial took place in October, 1879. The cost of the building so far aa it ha gone is stated to be £110,000. The bishop i^ pairon.

All SAlNTb', Brougham street, in the 13th century Gothic style, was built in 1867. It has clerestoried nave and aisle ; bell turret, and narthes of two storeys, the lower serving as a vestibule, the upper opening into the nave after the manner of a triforium, and used as a chapel ; deep transepts ; chancel of equal height with nave, and terminating with an apse. The principal roofs are baiTel-?aulted internally The altar piece, designed by Burgess, representstheAn lunciation ; seated for 6uO. Patrons, the Vestry.

Christ Church, Morningside. sty'e, ISth century French Gothic, built 1876. Wide nave with walls internally low ; qnasl- transept. The roofs are open to the ridge, and, in common with the interior, generally much bedizened. Tower and spire north- east of north transept, serving as entrance and organ chamber. Narrow and lofty memorial chancel, ending in polygonal apse, with prrcessional aisle. Tlie chancel roof is groined in wood, the walls adorned with rich diapering carved in the stone, and else- where relieved with colour, while a series of fine designs in stained glass fill the lofty windows of the apsidal clerestory. tTudec the nave there is a large hall used for cjngregational purposes.

St. John the Evangelist, west end of Princes street, is in the perpendicular Gothic style, and has nave with clerestory, north and south aisles, western tower, apsidal chancel. The proportions of the huilding are extremely good; the eastern window is of stained glass, as are also those above the piltars. It was built iij 1818 at the cost of £1/00,

DIRECTORY

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EDINBURGHSHIRE

Old St Paul, Jeffrey street. Tin? old church was uadasan Episc-tpal chapel in Iti 8, and was once the only Epig -opal church within the ancient cily walls. It has now been taken down and a new church erei:ted on the aanie site, which was opened by the Bishop of Edinburgh, on the 27th January, 1883. Tue style is G-othic, and it is seuted for 300. Patrons, the Dean and Chapter of St. Mary's Cathedral.

St. Paul's, York place, is also Gothic, with four octagonal towers at its angles ; it has buttresses surmounted with pinnacl--s. and theconspicuouH sitU'ition which it occupies at ihecornerof York place and Broughton street is felicitous for the display uf its beauty. In one of its four turrets hangs a bell formerly used in the Chapel Royal of Holyrood. It was built in 1813 at a co:t of £l2,i-u0, and is seated for 1,2U0.

St. Petkh's, Sutton place, Newingfcon. built in i3.')9, is in the early decorated style, and has nave with aisli^s, narihes and distinct octagoi;al bapiiatry, tower and spire, ap>id 1 cbancel, wii h aisles serving as organ chamber and vestry. It is seat :d for 500, Patrons, Trustees and Vestry.

St. Thomas", Kutland pLce, is in the Norman style, built in 138a, and is seated for 700. Patrons, the Vestry.

HuTY TttiNiTy, Dean bridge, is a fine building admirably situ- ated, built iu 18o3, and is seated for o9'i. Patrons, the Trustees.

St. Columba, Johnston terrace, built in 1840, is in the early English styie, with nave and chancel, sacristy en south of chancel, gallery at west end over porclJ and vestry. A large po.tion ot the stones of which the walls are built we^e taken from the ruins of the chapel in the Palace of Queen Mary of Guise, on Castle Hill. It is seated for 300. Pai rons, the Vesti'y,

St. AiS'DREW, St. John street, is in the Norman style, built in 1857, and enlarged in 1874. Further improvements were made, and a memorial window to David Anderson, of Moredim, placed iu thecbancel in 13rf4. It is seated for 5iO, Patrons, the Vesry.

United Prksbttkrian Church.

This body of Presbyterian dissenters has many places of worship in Edinburgli, some of them large.

NicoLSON Strhet Church is on the west side of Nicolson street, and its lofty Gothic iront is very commanding. Tlie fine Saxon arch of the doorway springs from two sculptured human heads. Por many years Dr. Jamieson, the compiler of the " Scottish Dictionary," was the miiiister of this numerous congregation.

Broughton Place Church is a massive building, withapor- t' CO and Doric columns ; it will conta n 1,600 worshippers.

Rose Strset Church is a handsome building, in the eastern division of Ruse street, and is very capacious.

Newington U- P. Church, in Causewayside, is an ornament to that neighbourhood.

The United Prt;sbyterian Chur'^h, which has Presbyteries in England as well as Scotland, holds a meeting of synod annually iu Edinburgh, on the Monday after the first Sunday in May. The meethigs are held in the Theological Hall, Castle terrac^e.

Free Church of Scotland.

This, which is the largest of the non-establishod churches of Sco land, holds the meetings of iis Greiieral Assembly in Edinburgli annually, at the same time with that of the Established Church. These meetings take place in a beautifid hall erected for the purpose, and capable of containing from 1,600 to 1,800 persons. This hall is situated behind tiie Free Church College; through the quadrangle, whirhisthe principal entrance to it, a broaa flight of steps leading up. The hall was erected in 1853-59.

The Free Church College, a theological seminary, stands at the head of the Mound, anil is a very beautiful edifice in the Elizabethan style, designed by Mr. Playfair, founded in 1846, and consisting ot a quadrangle. 84 feet by 56, wit'i two centre towers 131 feet in height, and a tower at the north-east corner 95 feet in height. The co lege has a staff of seven theological professors, including a professor of natural sttience. The library was founded in 1843, and was removed to the present buildings in 1850. It contains about 40,000 volumes, mainly theological. The Free Church has also tbeological seminaries in G'asgow and Aberdeen. It has nearly forty plat.es of woi'ship in Edinburgh, some ot them very beautitul buildings, adorued with lofty spires, as FrtjeSt. George's, Sbandwick place, Free St. Mary's, at the corner of .Albany street and Broughton street, Bai clay Church in Brunts- field Links, and Free Buccleuch Church, near George square, Free St. John's, near the Viotor'a Hall, and Fi-ee New North Church, near the Greyfriars Churches, are also worthy of notice.

Baptists, Congrkgationa lists, &c.

Tliere are six Baptist chiu*che8 in Edinburgh. One pl.ice of wor hip in Dublin street, is a beautiful -Ouilding. There are seven Congi-egationalist churches, and the only place of worship of any' external beauty is Augustine Chapel on George IV. bridge. The Catholic Apostolic Church, at the corner ot East London 9' reet, was opened in 1876. It is iu the later Norman style, measures 30O feet in length, 45 feet in height to the wall heau. an 1 64 feet in height, to the apex of th^ internal roof vault ; and comprises a nave, a chancel, a west end tower, and a baptistry. The cost was about £35,000. The places of worship ot minor Protestant denominations do not require specihl notice.

Roman Catholics.

The principal Roman Catholic Church, St. Tilaty'st occupies a site near York place, Iu Broughton street, and is a handsome Gothic edifice; it was built by subscription in 1313. and cost £8,000. It has a very fiue organ ; and above the altar is an excellent paint- ing by Vandyke, representing a dead Saviour. There is a s.cond chapel (St. Patrick's), of smaller dimensiijna, in Cowgate; and a larger Roman Catholic place of worship, called the Church of the Sacred Heart, lighted by cupolas, is situated in Laurit-ton »trQ«t,

EDUCATIONAL ESTABLISHMENTS. LIBRAIUES, INSTITU- TIONS, SOCIETIES, HOSPITALS, &c.

The University.

Edinburgh could not bostof a University at an early period. Robert Reid, Bishop of Orkney, Uft a bequest of 8,000 merkd in L358 for the purpose of founding one, and the magistrates in consequence puri'based pari of the ground on which the University now stands, which was then quite out of the town. There stood the house called Kirk o'F.eld, where Darnley, tlie husband of Q'ieen Mary, was murdered in 1.567. Some of the churcJi properly confiscated at the Reformation was assigned for the support of the proposed University. In the year 157i' a collection of books was bequeathed to it by Mr. Clement L'ttle,' as a founcbition for a library. The building was begun in 1580; a charter of erection was granted by James VI in 1582; and in the year following the college was opened for the reception of students, although at first wit,h only one class an.l one regent or leaeber. In 1617 James was so pleased wnth the progress v\ hi ch his favourite uni\eriity bad made that he honoured the establishment by calling it " The College of King Jamoi VI." In 1619 Sir William Nisbet, provost of Edinburgh, gave £1,000 Scols (j£83 6s. 8d. sterUng) towards the maintenance of a professor of divinity. The Protector Cromwell endowed the University w^ith nn annuity of jB200 sterling, William III. also bestowtdon it£.1u0 a year ; but part of this grant wasafter^varda withdiawn by Queen Anne. By an Act of Pari lament passed in 18.58, for the regulation of Scotch universities, a general Co mcil of the University of Edinburgh tas been const tuted, consisfing of the principal, professors, graduafes and persons who, before August, 1861, satisfied the Unii'ersity Coinndsioners of their having completed a certain course of attendance at the University, ^he aff dra of the University are now immediately under the care of ihe Si-natus Academicua ajid University Conn,, which was constituted at the sime time. The General Coun(jl has the right of electing a Chanc^llo", who holds otfice fir life ;and on tlie 28th October, 1859, Lord Brougham, an ahunnua of the University, was elected its first chancellor. The University Couit consists" of the rector, Uie principal, the Lord Provost of Edinburgh, and five assessors. The Act of 1858 took from the Town Council of Edinburgh not only tJie government of the University but the patronage of its chairs, which was transferred to seven curators, three of whom are nominated by the University Court, and four by the Town Council The number of professors is now 38, classified into the four fuculties of divinity, law, medicine, and the arts, the last named iuc uding literature and general science. The school of medic ne in this University, which has since risen to so much eminence, wa-i first founded iu 1721. Some of the present professors in the faculty of medicine are among the mo.-t distinguished men in Europe, and the University of t dinburgh has in former times bad men of equal eminence, not only in the faculty of medicine, but also in other facidlies, of whom it may be enough to mention Dugald Stewart, Sir William Hamilton, and Dr. Chalmers. Tbe students are not obliged to adopt any partcular mode of living or of dre^s. None of them live within the walls of the college, as at Oxfoi-d and Cambridge. The winter session begins about the middle of October and terminates about the end of the fir t week in April. The summer session extends over the mouths of May, " June, and July, Students are a'.tracted to Edinburgh, not only from every part of the British dominious, but from almost every nation in Europe, and every state in Amer ca. The old building being found too small, part of it was taken do a n, and theprestno one begun in 1789. The architect was Mr. Robtrt Adam. But the sum coilec ed, though large, being far from sufficient for the erection of a building of such elegance and magnitude, it b as necessarily stopped. In 1815, however, Parliament inadeayeaily i^rant of £lo,OiJO for ten years, to be expended in tie con<pJe- tion of the building, under the superintendence of commiss'oners appointed by Parliament. A handsome portico, supported by stone columns of .he Doric order, twenty-six feet high, forms the eliief entrance. The dst and we^t sides are :^55 feet in length, and the south and north 356 feet. The design of the interior quadrangle is by Mr. Playfair. The accommodation then pro- vided proved inadequa*^e for the rapid growth of tbe Univeisity under the Universitit-s Act (185 ). To meet more particularly the increasing requir«me its of the faculty of medicine, extensive additional buildings have been consiructed in Tev ot row, in convenient pi'oximity to the old buildings and to th i Royal lufirmiiry. In these the faculty of medicine is provided with laboratories and class rooms unequalled probably in Great Britain for their extent and equipment. The music class-room in Park place, the finest university building of its kind, was erected in 1S60. The organ therein is of Eu opean celebrity, and the museum contains a unique collection t f musical instruments. The Vniversitij Natural History Museum and tlie Museum of Science and Art of Hcotland.S'iv Andrew Balfour, to whom Edin , burgh owes the instituticn of the Botanic Garilens, was also the founder of the University Museum of Natural Hisiory. His collec- tions, which were very extensive, were pWed, after his death, in 1694, in the hall of the college; and in 1697 Sir Robert Sibbald presented the college with a great variety of curiosities, both native and exotic, but from neglect it was almost completely destroyed. In the present century, the Museum, under the care of the late Professor Jameson . was enriche I by various and extf n- sive collections, particularly by tbe purchase of the magnifie nb one of M. Dufrnane. of Paris; and the collection of bi;as alone contains upwards of 3,000 specimens, besides minerals, &c. The whole coUcL-tion is exceeded by few in Europe. It was .ome time ago removed fr^mi the place which it formerly occupied in the University to the Museum of Science and Art ot Scotland, which has been erected behind the University, and the foundation stone of which was laid by His Royal Highness Prince Albert on the same day with that of the new General Post OflSce. This building is now completed by the erection of the west wing, which was finished in 1887. This wing is being filled on the ground floor with a tine series of mechanical models; on the first floor with a very complete ethnographical collection or specimens of tbe arts and

U

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manufactures of sarage races, and on the upper floor with the extensive collection of rocks, minerals, and Eusails formed by the Greologii_-al Survey of Scollaiid. These arranf^etneiitswill aimit of tLie main floor of the great liitli being mainly devoted to illustra- tions of architecture and sculptui'e. The collection of specimens illustrative of the arts — raw materials, progress and processes of manufacture, implements, atid machines, products,&c. — is probably unrivalled in the world. It was begun by the late lamented Dr. George Wilson, professor of teclinoiogy in the University of Edinburgh.

The University Library ^ the nucleus of which was a collect'on of books left to " Edinburgh and Kirk of God," by Mr. Clement J.ittil in 1581, contains about I80.UOO volumes, besides several thousand MSB. Among the latter is the remarkable assortment of historical and antiquarian doc iments and manuscript voluinei bequeathed by the late David Laing, especially rich in matter relating to Scotland; other curious M8S are the protest of the Bohemian nobles against the burning of John Huss ; the original marriage contract of Queen Mary with the Daupliin of France; a velhmi copy of Fordun's *" Scotichronicon," and a variety of beautiful Persian and Abyssinian productions. The Library formerly enjoyed the right to claim a copy of every book entered at St itiooers' Hall, but now receives instaad an annual grant of £575. For th-* rest it Is supported out of the general university fund. The Library Hall, 190 feet long by 50 wide, is one of the noblest rooms in Scotland, and is adorned by a large number of busts of old Professors of tlie University.

T^heAdvoentes' Library, by far tlie most valuable in Scotland, was founded by Sir George Mackenzie, in 1682. The collection of manuscripts numbers about 3,0i»0 volumes, relating chiefly to the civil and ecclesiastical history of Scotland, most of which hive been printed. In 1858 the library was estimated to contain 17-1,000, and is now (1883) computed to have increased to over SJO.UiiO volumes. Thomas Ruddlman, the Latinis^. and David Hume, the historian, were amongst its librarians. It is one of the five public libr.iries whii^h still enjoy the privilege of rec ivinjf a copy of every book published in the United Kingdom. It is dis- tinguished by the liberality ol its management— every respectable applicant being freely permitted to consult its contents.

The Library of the Writers to the '^ignet.—The origin of the Signet Library d^tps from 1755, when the Society of Writers to her Majesty's Signet set aside certain funds for the purchase oE law- books. In 177- they begtin to collect the best editions of books in other departments of literature, with a view of forming a general library, to which Mr. Archibald Campbell, of Succoth, presented a collection of tbepri -cipalaricieut classics. A catalogue, printed in 1792, shows the library then contained about 3,400 volumes. It now (1888) contains about 80 ,0(ju volumes, exclusive of pamphlets and tracts. The members of the society are permitted by the rules to borrow volumes from the library under certain restrictions, and even to extend this privilege to strangers whom they may recommend. The funds at the disposal of 1 he society for main- taining the library are exclusively derived from the entrance fees of its members.

Tiie Sodcitors' Library.— The Library of the Solicitors before the Supreme Courts was formed about the beginning of the present century. It contiinsabout 15,000 volumes. The primary purpose of the library is for professional use. and for consultation during the sitting of the superior courts. Almost ever^' work bearing on the law of Scotland is included. The Advocates' Library, the Signet Library, and the Solicitors' Library are located In the Parliament House.

The Library 0/ Vie Faculty of Actuaries 19 kept In the Standard Life Assurance Conpany's office, S, George street. It was establi hed In 1856. It contains, besides a large collection of pamphlets, 1,300 volumes exclusively professional and for reference. The library is maintained by an annual grant from the Faculty. The use and privilege of the library is given to all matriculated students of theFajulty of Actuaries and to the members of the Actuarial Society in f^'dinburgh.

Tlie Edinburgh Literary Institute, South Clerk street, was opened in 1372. Its object was to provide reading for the inhabitants of the southi'rn districts of thu city. The library cont >ins 8,000 vol- umes, ana is supported by the annual subsiriptions of the readers. The Edinburgh Sub ascription Library. 25, George street, was instituted in 17i*4. Its object was to provide a good supply of general literature. It contains about 40.000 volumes, and is supported by shares and the annual subscriptions of its members.

Thd Edinburgh Mechanics' Subscription Library, Victoria terrace, was instituted in 1835, and its special ©"^ject w.is to provi-le at a cheap rate an extensive collection of books in tlie general litera- ture of the country, including the most popular works on scien e. It is maintained by a small entrance fee and an a luual subscription 'rom the members.

The iiuyal CoLleg-: of Phijsicians was incorporated by charter in 1631. Tlie hall, which is in Queen street, contdns a liurary of about 26,000 volumes and a museum of materia medica.

The Royal College of Surgeons was incorporated in 177''', and is po sessed of a most valuable museum ; the bequest of Dr. Bar lay's, and the purc-hase of Mr. Bell's, in aldition to what has been otherwise acquired, have rendered their collection of aiiatomica.1 preparations perhaps unequal ed in Great Britan. The hall is in Nicolson street andis a noble edifi' e in the Grecian style, with a portico in Trout, supported by fluted Ionic columns. It was erected in 1833, at a cost of £20,000.

The Hoy al Medical Society, 1 .'^eXhoume place, numbers about fiO members, hut there are life members all over the world. The library contains 20,000 volumes, chiefly medical literature and allif»d sciences, for the use of membfirs only.

The Philosophical Institution, Queen street, was originally eatablishei in 1832 as the Edinburgh Philosophical Associaiion. It waa reorganized in 1816 under its present constitution, embracing three separate departments, (1) the news room, (2) the library and reading room, and (3) popular lectures on subjects of general interest. The present newsroom was erected in 1851. The daily supply of newspapers includes ail the more Important

X2

London, provincial, foreign, and colonial .ioiirnala. The library contains 30,'X)n volumes, including a valuahl-? collection of t.ooks of reference. The institute is supported solely by the routribu- tiions of the members and subscribers, of whom there are about 3,100.

The Hayal (Dick's) Veterinary College, Clyde-street, was founded bytheldte Proiessor Dick in 1823. Previous to that date, no institution devoted to tlie teaching of veterii ary science existed in Scotland ; nor was any veterinary degri-e obtainable in Great Britain or Ireland. In the year mentioned, the Highland a id Agricultural Society of Scotland, considering the desirability of pronioti: g instruction in veterinary subjects, came to an agreementwih Professor Bick, undo- which the present institu- tion Wfls founded. The under ak ng was from the outset attended wtth marked success ; the number of students rapidly iucreased, ami in the year 1827 a .Soard of E.xaminers was appoitited by the HighUnd and Agricultural Society. Studen s who, after a pres ribed period of at lendam^e at the College, were able to s.itisfy the examiners o: tlieir proli'iency, received a certiiirate sealing forth that, they were qual lied to pratitice the veterinary art. In the y< ar 1814 the Royal College ot Veterii;ary Surgeons was incor- pbrntedby Royal Charter, and under thectiarter of incorporalioo Pfofessor Dick's College was atfiliated to it. From the year 1848 two separate and distinct examining boards existed, viz., 1st, that appointed, as formerly .by the HiL^lilanU and Agricultural Society, conferring the veterinary certificiite; the2nd,thHt appointed by the Royal College of Veterinary Surgfons, granting the diploma of that body. The course of study requ site to obtain these degrees was in each case almost identical, and students could become can ' idates for either or both. Professor Dick constantly developed the retources ot the College towards imparting a sound theoreti- cal c mbined with an extensive practical knowledge, and his efforts were rewarded by the widespread fame of the institution. In 18t)6 Professor Dick died, having ^-chie ed more than any other single individual towards rescuing from obscurity the po ition of veterinary s ietice in this country. At his death he endowed the Royal Veterinary College, whieh now bears his name ; and be- qiitathej it in trust to the Lnrd Provost, Magistrates, and Town Couneilof the city of Edinburgh. It is the only endowed veterinary school in Great Britan. During Professor Dick's lifetime, and since bis death, the College has educated upwards of 1,200 veterinary surgeons, and it numbers amongst its graduates those occupying the highest and most responsible positions in the profession both at home and abroad. An agreement was some years ago concluded between the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland and the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons under wliich the examinati'ins hitherto held by the Society are d scontinued ; consequently, on y one degree in veterinary medicine and surgery is now obtainable in Great Britain and Ireland, viz., the diploma ot the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons. Candidates on obtaining the degree become members of the Royal College o' Veterinary Surgeons.

The New Veterinary College, in Leith walk, has been erected specially for the eduoition of veterinary students. It contains lecture, reading, and waiting rooms, &c., and is provided with horse boxes, dog kennels, &c.

The Royal Institution arose in 1 819. and was inoo rporated in 1827 for the encouragement of the fine arts. The apartments of the institution are in a magnificent building, situated on the north end of the Mound, in Princes street. It is from a design byPlayfair, and is of the Doric order, with fluted columns ranging on each side ; in the front is a third range, supporting a pediment, on which is now placed a statue of the Queen, by Steell. The building, which was commenced in 1823, cost ^"40.000. It contains a sculpture gallery of casts, a school ot art, the rooms of the Royal Society of Bdittburgh, th- Board of Manufactures. thePishery Board, and the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, and also the museum and library of that sobiety , which latter contains about 9,000 volumes, chiefly relating to the archeology of Scotland. The museum is now the property of the nation, and very rich in ob.iects of interest.

The National Gallery is immediately south of the Royal Institution, on the Mound; it was built in 1850-54, at a cost of £40,000, and is a building of the Ionic order, from a design by Mr. Playfair. There are two suites of octagonal rooms ; tlie western contains the National Gallery of painting and sculpture, in which, besides specimens of tha old masters, are some admirable works of more recent painters ; the eastern is used for the annual exhibition of the Royal Scottish Academy, which is one of the great attractions of the city daring the months of March, April, and May. In this building may be seen Plaxman 3 beautiful statue of Robert Burns.

The Society of Arts, which was incorporated in 1822, and has since obtained the royal charter, is very efticient in the encourage- ment of useful inventions, models of which are exhibited at its meetings. These are held vqnce a fortnight in their hall, below the Assembly Rooms, Gfeorge street.

The Royal Scottish Geographical Society, 80a, Princes street, was founded with the object of popularising and diffusing geographi- cal knowledge in Scotland.

The Roi/al Botanic Garden and Arboretum of Edinburgh occupies a fine position on the north side of the town, and has its entrance from Invert t-ith row. The main entrance to thi arboretum is at the west side, and can be approached by Stockbridee. This garden, of which the professor of botany in the University is renins keeper, is one of the odest in the kingdom, having been founded in 1670. Since then it has undergone many changes, both as to situation and extent, to accomtnodate it to the requirements of the Edinburgh Botanical School, which is the largest in the kitigdom. The garden embraces an area of 27 Scotch acres, and is especially adapted for the purposes of tuition. It includes a pinetum, a herbarium, and a winter garden, a special room provided with microscopes for the ptirsuit of histological botany, a class museum, and various ranges of hot houses and green houses. The palm house is 100 feet in length, 57 in breadth, and 72 feet in height. The class-room of the professor of botany, the museum, and the house of the curator are situated at the right

tHRBOTORY

EDINBURGH

EDINBURGHSHIREJ

band side of the entrance. Admission is obtained to the garden free.

The Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland was instituted inl734, and incorporated Ijy royal charter in 1787, and originally bore the name of the Higl)land Society. The leaning purposes of the 80ci(ty arelo offer premiums Uv reports on almost every subject connected with the cultivation of the soil, the rearing and feeding of stock, the management of the dairy, the improve- ments of agricultural machinery and implements, the growth of timber, the extension of cottage accommodation, the application ot chemical science, and the dissemination of veterinary information.

The Royal Observatory and Astronomical Institution.— Atler aevei al ineffectual attempts to erect an observatory, the foundation stone «as laid on the Gallon Hill in 1776; aud the money sub- scribed being insutlicient, the work was completed in 1792 at the expense ot the city. The Astronomical Institution was established in 1812, and the T(jwn Council granted to the association the ground aud building on the Calton Hill formerly destin-d for the purposes of an observatory, on the condition of their not being applied to any other purposes. The property was originally held in transferable shares, of twenty- live guineas each, but now entirely belongs to the Government. The Observa- tory is under the charge of the Professor of Astronomy in the University, who receives a salary f.om Governmeni-., and is Astronomer Royal of Scotland. A salary is also paid to rn assistant. ;a regular series of observations is published yearly. The new Observatory, ereoteil by the Astronomical Institution, from a design by Playfair, a little to the east of the former, was founded in 1818 ; it is a cross, eadi branch of which is 62 feet long, with four projecting pediments of 28 feet each, supported by six columns of toe Doric order, fronting the four cardinal points oi the compass. In the centre is a dome, thirteen feet in di.imeter, under which is a pillar of solid masonry, of a conical form, six feet in diameter at tlie base, and nineteen feet high, intended for the astronomical circle. Connected wii h the i bservatory is a time ball, conspicuously elevated on a tall pole on the sum- mit of the Calton Hill, which falls, in consequence of the action of_ electricity, exactly at one o'clock p.m Greenwich time. A wire from the Observatory conveys the electric spark to the Castle, and at the same mo.nent oisrharges agun in one of the batteries daily, except on Sundays. The time-ball w.is in use for a number of years before the time-gun, which has now also been in use for several year.. Both are highly prized in Edinburgh andiuLeith.

The United Presbyterian College, Hall, and Library is situated in Castle terrace; the library contains upwards of 21, OdO volumes. Edinburgh has otticr societies too numerous to be properly noticed in our limited space, such as the Wernerian, the Diagnos- tic, the Dialectic, the Horticultural, the Hunterian, the Forensic, the Juridical, the Scuts Law, the Speculative, the Phrenological, the Harveian, the Medicn-Chirurgical. the Geological, the Obstet- rical, the Literary, and the Metaphysical.

Tlieological College of the {Scottish Episcopal Church.— This Institution had its origin in the pious benefaction of Catherine Panton, residing near Fraserburgh, in the county of AlierJeen, which was entrusted in theyear 1810 to the Bishops of the Scottish Church, for the purpose of " erecting and endowing a seminary of learning, or iheological institution, fur the education of young men desirous to serve in the sacred ministry of the Scottisli Episcopal Communion." In 1833 the Rev. Dr. Andrew Bell foimded. In conneclion with the institution, the Itcturesliip which bears his name. The valiuible libiary of the Right Rev. Alexander Jolly, D.D., Bishop of Moray, was bequeathed to the institution in 1838, The library of the late Rev.G. H. Forbes has been placed by the Forbes Trustees in 8, Rosebery crescent, and is aval able to students applying to the Librarian, the Rev. Canon W. Bell. In con- sequence of a destructive fire at Trinity College, Glenalmond, in which the bull lings occupied by the divinity s udents were burned to the ground, the theological classes were removed temporarily to Edinburgh in January, 1876; and in the following year the Bishops determined that the Theological College should be situated pernanently in that city. The classes meet in the Theo- logical Hall, 8 and 9, Rosebery crescent.

The Edinburgh School Board.— In consequence of the discon- tinuance under the Educational Commissioners' Scheme of the Heriot Free Schools, the Board have been compelled to provide school accommodation for the 4,000 children in average attend- ance at these schools who were affected by th's change. The schools, twelve in number, have been umler the control ot the Board since the 1st J.anuary, 1886. The Heriot I'rust retain the tullpowerof electing children to the free list, and have at their disposal for that purpose £3,.50O, less £2.50, which may beset apart in giving food and clothing in the more necessitous eases. The number of schools now imder the Board, exclus ve of the High School, is twenty-seven, with a total teaching staff of 490. Several new schools have been built, whilst others have been enlarged, and when these are in full operation accommodation wdi be secured for over 20.000 children. The total amount for new school buildings for which the Board is responsible amounts to £242,840, and In addition £43,7.50 has been borrowed for alterations on existing buildings, &c., making together £286,590. The Board have recently erected new offices occupying a site to the south of the U. P. Svno 1 Hall, at the corner ot Castle terrace and Cornwall street. The building is designed in the Italian style, which expresses in a general way the predominating feeling of the architecture of the Synod Hall. The primipal elevation is to Castle terrace, and on the street floor are placed the public office, lighted by the large oriel window, the treasurer s, clerks', and messengers' rooms, &c. The compulory department enters from Cornwall street and embraces room for the chief compulsory oiiicer, waiting-room, and large mom for the compulsory staff. On the first floor, overlooking Castle terrace, is the boardroom, S.'H feet by 23 feet, exclusive of the large oriel window, having, on the ©ne sirle an ante-room, which may be used as a waiting-room, and, on the other, the room appropriated for the use of the clerk ot the Board.

Two committe-rooms face Cornwall street, and at the back ;of the building are two retiring-rooms and lavatories. On the second floor the rooms to the front are intended for the accommi dation of maps, books, and school appliances. The messenger and care- taker's house is situated on this floor. ; nd is entered uy a separate door and stair in Co: nwall street. The building has been designed by Mr. Robert Wilsun, architect to the Bi ard, and is estimated to have cost £10.000.

High School of Edinburgh, Regent Koad.— The date of the foundation of this school Is unknown, but it. appears to have ex- isted as early as the beginning of the twelfth century . From that time to the Roformation, " the Grammar School of Edinburgh," as it was then called, was under the contiolof the Canons of Holyrood. In 1598 it was remodelled on a more comprehensive plan, aud from the patronage vouchsafed to it by James VI., it recevedthe name of Schola Hegia Eduiburgensis. The course of study his since, from time to time, been exiended and improved , so as to meet the advancing demands ot the age. Although at first exclusively a classical seminary, it now furnishes systematic ipsi ruction in all the departments of a commercial as well as of a liberal education. The English language and literature, including reading, orthography, recitation, grammar, and composition, together with the history ol Great Biilain, form prominent parts of the system; while the entire curriouluu] of study— which occu- pies nine years— embraces the Latin, Greek. French, German, and Hindustani languages, history, geography, chemistry, and physiology, with writing, book-keeping, arithmetic, algebra, and geometry, drawing, fe cing, gymnastics, swimming, and military drill. Tuere is a library coutaining ntarly 7.U0O volumes selected by the rector and masters, to which all the pupils have access. The High School originally stood In the Old Town, near the site of the old infirmary, it was rebuilt on nearly the same spot in 1777. As this situation had become unsuitable, from the great extension of the city northwards, and as the accommodation had proved inadequate to the rapidly increasing number of pupils, the present splendid structure was founded in 1825, on the south slope of the Calton Hill, which was deemed more convenient for the inhabitants of the city. The edifice, which cost £.30,000, and was designed by the late Ihomas Hamilton, architect, waa com- pleted in 1829. The main building, 270 feet in length, has a magnificent hesastyle Doric portico in the centre, which is united to the wings by two corridors, the entablatures of which are supported by twelve coUimns, also of I he Doric order. There is ample accommodation for conducting the various branches of study. The playground, a portion of which is roofed over, is spacious, extending to nearly two acres, and commands a picturesque view of the ancient city and surroimding country. The patrons are the Magistrates and Town Council of the city, aud the school is under the management of the Edinburgh School Borrd.

George Heriot's Trust. — George Heriot was born at Edinburgh about theyear 1.563. He followed his father's trade o' a goldsmith, and in 1597 was appointed goldsmith to Anne of Denmark, the queen of James TI. Shortly afterwards be was nominated jeweller and goldsmith to tl.e king ; and when the court was removed to London, in 1603, U eriot followed in its train. He died there February 12, 1624, having, by a will dated in the previous year, bequeathed the residue of his property, amounting to £23,625, to the erection of an hospital, " lor the mainetenance, releife, bringing upp, and education of poore fatherlesse boyes, freemen's soiines of the towne of Edinburgh." The foundation stone of George Heriot's Hospitil, Lauristori, was laid July 1, 1628, but, owing to the civil war aud other causes, the building was not opened till April 11, 1659. The expense of the erection exceeded £3i:),000 sterling. The original trustees of Heriot's endowment were the Lord Provost, Magistrates, and Town Council, and the City Ministers of Edinburgh ; and by them and their successors in office the trust continued to be adtuinistered till August, 1885. At that date the Endowed Schools (Scotland) Commissiouers issued a scheme by which the governing body was re-constituted, and the number of its members reduced from fify-four to twenty-one, ot whom twelve areappointed by the Town Council (one of these must be elected from among the ministers of religion officiating in Edinburgh, not being members of the Established Church o( Scotland), three by the School B.ard cf Edinburgh, two by the City Ministers of Edinburgh, two by the Senatus oi the University ot Edinburgh, one by the Royal Society ot Edinburgh, and one by the Edinburgh Chamber of Commerce. Besides altering the com- position and number of the governing body, the scheme also made considerable change in the mode of applying the income of the trust; and the main objects to which this is now to be devoted may be summarized as follow: — (1) The establishment ot a day- school within the buildings of Heriot's Hospital, to be called George Heriot's Hospital School, and which shall be open to fee- paying as well as tree pupils. (2) The maintenance and extension of the Watt Institution as a Technical College— to be known as the Heriot- Watt College — for -'providing technical and generaleducation for the indu-trial classes, of ooth sexes, on a scale suitable to the great and increasing wants of these classes." (3) The foundation of bursaries for the promotion of seeomlary and higher education, which are tenable at George Heriot's Hos- pital School, the High School, the Heriot-Watt College, and the University ; and (4) the expenditure of an annual sum of not more than £3,500 for providing free education, books, &c., for poor children attending public or state-aided schools in Edinburgh. Tills provision for free education is intended to cover the cost, of teaching at least as many poor children as had been, till 1885, under initruction in what were known as the Heriot Out-door Schools, which by the scheme were transferred to the manage- ment of the School Board.

The Edinbubgh Merchant Company Schoom.— (1) The Edin- burgh Educational Institution (Ladies' College), 70, 72, and 73, Queen street. This Institution was founded in 1695 by the Company of Merchants, and Mary Erskine, widow of James Hair, druggist in Edinburgh, as an hospital for girls, and was known as the Merchant Maiden Hospital. The governors were incor- porated by an Act of Parliament in 1707. The original edifice wa9

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teDINBURGHSHIRB

EDINBURGH

SLATER'S

situated iu Bristo street; bub having bpcome insufficient for its pui'pose, thefoaudation stona of an another building was laid in Lauriatonin 181(5; and the erect on, which was designeJ by Mr. Burn, was completed in 1818, at the cost of £12,250. Up to 187U this building contiuue.l to be used as nn J^ospital, for the board and education of the foundationers, but in that yeiir it was converted, under a provisionul order into a day-scbool, and opened as such in September, 1370. It huving been t^old to the governors of Geor^je Wat-.on's Hoapitil, the tiovernors of this intstitution purchased extensive buildings in Queen str-et for the purpjses of the iustitution, and they were opened in Ociober, 1871. The institution provides a high-i;l*S3 educitioa, the coi^rse of study embracing English, French, German, Litln, le^tmes ou literature and scieice, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, algebra, irathemat cs, drawing, vocal mu io, pianoforte, drill, calisthenics, dancing, gymnastics, needlework, and cojkery. The governors had the right of presenting thi-ty-four foundation-rs to the h tspital, but an amending provi ional order, obtained in lS33, directs that this number be reduced to twenty, and that the governors sliallal'o elect twenty-one foundationers by competi- tive examination from among the girls attending the day-schools of the Metchant Maiilen Hospit 1. Power is given to increase the number of merit foundationers from time to time should the govrirnors consider that the funds of the endowment warrant 3 (cb inc.-ease. Girls attending the institution miy obtain, by competition, the following benefits, viz., (1) A prejeutat'on to tlie foundation; and (3) a burs,\ry on leaving the instituti n of £25 a year, and tenable for four years, equal to £100. Besides the above benefits, a large number of school bursaries is awarded at the end of caf^h ses ion, equal in value to tbe cost of the successful competitor's c:ass fees for the following year. There are also awa ded to pupils attending the institution bursaries in connection with the Ed nburgh Sehnol of Cookery and Dom sticEconomy. Thefoimda ioners are, under the supervision of the governors, boarded with families in Edinburgh. Whi:m admitted to the foundation the girls must be of the age of nine and under thai, of sixteen ye irs. A number of the presentations was formerly limited to the daughters or grand-da-ighrers of such as were of the ord'rr or calling of merehantburgessesof Ed'uburgh, or ministers thereof, or su' urbsof thesame, or had b-'cn benefactors to the hospital or gjvernors of the same; but the provisional order removes this limitation, and declares t^at the patrons shall be at full liberty to present such girls as 'hey consider most suit- able. On leaving, the foundationers, by favour, receive £9 (is. Sd. each.

(2) George Watson's College Schools, Lauriston. — George Watson, born in Edinburgh about ]G50, served an apprenticeship to a marchant in the city, and after a short residence in Ho'land, entered into the servi ;e of Sir James Dicks, a wealthy trader in Edinburgh. This employment he relinquished in 1695. on being appointed accountant t J the Bank of Scotland. He died in April, 1723. and by his will bequeathed 4i;i2,nouto endow n hospital for the uiaintenanie and instruction of l he male children and grand- ch idren of decayed meruhants in Edinburgh ; and by the s atutes of his trustees a preference was given to the sons and grandsons of members of the Edinburgh Merchant Company. An hospital for the board and education of the foundationers was fouuded in the year 173S, and opened in June, 1741, and it continued to be used for th's purpose until 1870, when the governors of the four hospitals connected with the Merchant Company, taking advantage of the powers given by the Endowed Institutions (Scotland) Act, applied for and obtained pr 'visional orders empowering them to convert the hospitals into day schools, and they were open-d as such in September, 1870. This bui'ding was, liowever, sold to the Corporation of th-^ Koyal Infirmary in 1S71. and the building fi.rmerly called the Merchant Maiden Hospital was acqaired for and is now being occupied as George Wa^ son's Colleg- for Biys. Another house adjoining has since been purchased for the exten-ion of the schools. Theobjc'tof the schools is to provide boys with a liberal education, qualifying them for commercial or professional life, the civil service, ilie universities, &c. The p o\is onal order directs that the number of foun<iatiimer.-i sha'l be reducel to sixty, aul under the amending order of 1888 at legist one-fourth of these shall be elected by com- petitive examination from boys a tending this and the other Mi r- ohant Company Schools. Boysatt-nduig theCo]]e;:e may obtiln, by compet.tion, the fo lowing benefits, viz. : (1) A presentation to one of the foundations of tliis College ; and (2) a bursary on leaving the schools of t'2o a year, and tenable for four years, equal to £100. Besides the above benefits, a large number of f-chool bursaries is awarded attheend of ea;h session, eqnal in value to the cost of thi successful competitor's class-fees for the following yr-ar. Under the order of I8f?8, the governors have power to found three open fellowships of thava'ue of £100 per annum, tenable for any perioi not exceeding three years, to aid students of promise and merit in the prosecution of their professional studies in any department of science, art, or literature, whether in this country c>r abroad, and who have attended at bast two sessions at Edinburgh University, and such fellowships shall be granted upon a Gomp titive examina'ion. The foundationers are, under the su lorvislon of the governors, boarded in families in Edinbm-gh. When admitted as foundationers, they must i e of the ai^eof nine and under that of fourteen years. On leaving, each foundationer, by favour. Is allowed £7 for clothes ; he may receive for five jeais of an apprenticeship £10 annually; and on attaining r-he age of twenty-live, a further sum of £-50 to enable him to commence business in Edinbvu'^h.

(3) George IVatsons College for Ladies.— The governors have also, in virtue 'f power given them In the provisional order of 1870, established a school for girls cilbd George Watson's College for Ladie'. The school buildings were in 1376 largely added to and improved by the governors, so as to make them more cora- niodtoug, and in every respect suitable as a young ladies' institu- tion. The course of study is the same as that of the Edinburgh Eduoational Institution Ladies' College (see before), and girls attending the school have, under an amending order Obtaia^ii ia 1388, aimlUr bQfl^St? opea for their com petition.

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(4) Daniel Stewart" s College for Boys, Dean.— Daniel Stewart, of the Exchequer, who died in 1814, le t the residue of his property, amounting (after the erection and endowment of a free school in his native pariah of Logierait) to upwards of £13,000, to accumu- late for the piu"po3e of building and endowing an hospital for the maintenanceand education of boj'S. the chil-ren of honest and industrious parents, whose circumstances in life do not enable Ihera suitably to support and educate their children at other schools. Taking advantage of the power given by a provisional order obtained in 1870, thehospital was opened as a day school in September of that year. The institution provides bo3''s with a superior educat'on, and the course of study is similar to that In Ge irge Watson's College for Boys. Instruction is also given in technieal education. The provisioniil order directs that the number of foundationers shall be reduced tj forty, and under the amending order of 1838 at least one-half of them shall be elected, oy competitive examination, from the day sch> lars of this institu- tion. Boys attending the institubion have valuab'e benefits open for iheir competition. On admission to the foundation boys must be of the age of nine and under that of fou t.-en years.

(5) James Gillespie's Schools for Boys and Gi'r/j. Bruntsfield Links. — This institution was founded by James Gillespie, of Spylaw, merchant and tobacconist in Edin'jurgb, who, by hts will, dated in they, ar 1796, 1 e4ueathed the greater part of his property for the endowment of a charitable sclioo), and of an hospital for the aliment and maiutenaice of old men and women. The edifice, which WAS designed by Mr. Burn, was founded in 18J1, and opened in 1802. The free school was founded in 1801, and opened in 1803. Up to 1870, the hospital continued t3 be occupied by old persons, of whom about 40 we"e mainf ained in it. In that yt-ar the governors ob a ned a provisional ord^r empowering them to convert; the hospital into day schools, and it was opened as such id September, 1870, The schools are established as primary schools, and the course of instruction inclu'es Engli h, in nil the branches, writing, aiithmetic, book-keeping, algebr-t, geometry, elementary French and LaUn, physical geography, freehand, model, and mechanical drawii.g, vocal music, and drill. The girls are also taught sewing, knitting cutting-out, the sewing- machine, and domestic economy. Arrangements have been niade by whiC'i the aerii r girls may obtain pract cal lessons in cookery. Under an amending order, obtained iu 1388, power is continued to the gov mors to grant fo.ty school bursaries at the end of each session, equal in value to tbe cost of the successful competitors class fees fortlie following year ; and a new power is conferred on the governors, viz. : to establish twelve higher school bursaries of a value not exceeding £10 each per annum tenab ie for a period not exceeiing three years, to enable promising pupils to attend at the iiigher class schools of the Company ; such pupils receiving in addition free education at these schools. Those entitled to the benefits of the hospital as aged foundationers are persons not under 55 years of aga, first, of the name of Gillespie, whatever part of Scotland ihey may come from: and, second, pe sons be- longing to Edinburgh and its suburbs ; failing the e, persons from Leith, Newhaven, and other pirts of Midlothian; whom failing, persons from any other part of Scotland. By the provisional order of 1870 the governors have power, instead of maintaining the foundationers in the then present or any other building, to mIIow tbem a pension of not less than £10 and not exceeding £35 a year.

Donaldson s Hospital, Coltbridge.— This hospital was founded by James Donaldson, of Broughton Hall, printer, who died in Edin- burgh in October, 1?30, bequeathing the greater part of his property, amounting to about £i '0.000, t'j trustees, for the endowment and erection of an hosp tal for the maintenai a of poor boys and girls, after the plan of the Orphan Hosp tal in Edinburgh, and John Watson's Institution. The i)uilding can accommodate 1^-0 boys and 150 girls ; it contains at present 317 ch-ldren (113 boys and 99 girls), of whom 113 (56 boys and 57 girls) are deaf and dumb. Those eli- gible for adm ssion are declared to be — Is*^, *' Poor children of the name of Donaldson or Marshall, if appearing to the governors to be deserving ; " 2nd, " such poor children as shall appear to be in the most destitute cireumstaacesand the mo ^t deserving of admis- sion." None are received whose parents are able to support them. The children are clothed and maintained in the hospital, and taught such useful brnohes of a plain English education as will fit the boys for trades and the girls fur domestic service. The age of admission is from seven to nine, and that of leaving the hospital fourteen years. The building, which occupies a comniandng position at the west end of the city, is a large and beautiful quadrangular structure, in the Elizabethan stlye, from a design by the late W. H. Playfair.

Juhn Watson's Jnstitutiont Dean. — In the year 1759, John Watson, writer to the signet, bequeathed the residue of his estate 10 certain trustees, by them to ba applied "to such pioua and charitable usps within thf city of Edinburgh as they shall think proper." in the year 1822 an Act of Parliament was obtained empowering the trustees t> establish and endow " an hospital for the maintenance and edircitiou thfffin of destitute children, and bringing them up to be useful members of society; and also for assisting in their outset in life such of them as may be thought to deserve and require such aid." The edifice', which vas designed by Mr. William Burn, was founded in 1835, and com- pleted in 1823. About 100 are maintained in it, who must be fatherless and children of the better classes, such as clergymen, officers iu the army and navy, legal or medical practitioners, and such like; when admitted, they must have completed t'^eir seventh year, but be under the age of nine. They are not retailed nfter theiige of fourteen. They are instructedin English, Latin, French, drawing, mathematics, vocal and instrumental music, dan ing, drill, &o. Tlie establishment is under the management of fifteen directors— the keeper and deputy keeper of the signet, the treasurer of the institution, and twelve commissioners of The writers to the signet. The fund, which in 1781 amounted to no less than £5.000, has been largely increased by tlje care and attcnl ion of the trustees.

The Fcttes College and Endowment aie due to the henefloent bequests of the late Sir William F-ttes, Bart., of Comely Bank..

who wftB t'orn in 1750, m^ »1.J<;'.l in I3;«tl. For toe purposes of it{^.

Directory

EDINBURGH

EDINBURGHSHIRE

endowment, a building called "The Fettes College " has bo™ erected on the grounds of Comely Bank, part of the trust property, a coniinj; to i hins by the late David Bryce, B q , b.s. A., arohitfot, and waa opened in October. 1870. The admiiii tration of the endowment is now in the h'snds of the governors of the Fettes Trutt, acting under the scheme (f the Edura- tional Endowment (Scotland) Commission, r'ated Ap il r.rA, 1886. At present fifty foundationers (children of parents who ae fiom innocent mi fortune, during their own lives, unable to (.ive suitable education to their children, or who have died without leaving sufHiient funds for thr.t pur- po e) are maiutained and educated it the college free of charge. Vacancies are tillfd up by the governors once a year. Non-foundationers are received as at other public schools, and for their acoomrnolation th re are 'our boarding-house?, which are situated witliin the college grounds, and under the charge of tlie college masters. The instruction includes all the bran'-hes of a liberal education of the higliest claims, and is intended to qualify for the universities and for profession-l life.

John aatfs Hos/dtal, Leith.-The late John Watt, merchant in Leith, by his trust disposition and settlement, dated 1837, be- queathed the resiilucof his means and esta'e to tr- stees, wjib directions for the erection of an hospital in Leith, to be called • John Watt's Hospital." It is for the reception and maintenance of men ard wo a en or fifty-five years of age and upwards who are in destitute cronmstances, but who are not pens oners or in receipt of an Hlowance from any charitable irstitution except tt'e ParochialBoard of Sou' h Leith. The fallowing is tie ord»r of priority.— Ist. Persons of the name of Watt : 2nd, natVes of the Parish of South Leith of what; vrr name ; Srd, persons of what- ever name who have constantly resided in the parish of South Leith for at least ten years preceding their admisson ; and 4th. natives of. or persons who have cons'autlv resided in. the city of Edinburgh, or county of Midlothian. The Hospital stands at th.- south-west corner of the Links, and was opened in the beginning of 18('2.

CaumiS Hospital, Duddingston.— This institution was foimdei by Louis Cauvm, teacher of French in Edinbiu-gh, and afterwards farmer at Duddingston, who died in ]32.i, bequeathing hi= property fertile erection and endowment of " an hospital for the relief, maintenance, and education of the r ons of respectable 1-ut poor teachers, the sons of poor but honest farmers, whom tHiihng, the sons of respectable master printers or brok ellers, and the sons of respectable servants in (he pgricultiiral line." This tettlement was explained and modified, and the governors incorporated, by a Parliamentary statute in 1837. The manage ment ism the survivors of certain individuals nominated by the tounder, and others a-sumed by them, and in the following ex-offino trustees, viz., the Lord Provost of the e'ty, t' e Pi iucipal of the University, the Hector of the High School, the Mini ters of . S?Jj^. ' I-'barton, and Newton, the proprietor of the estate 01 JNiddrie, and the factor of the Duke of Abercorn. The ins itu- tion, which 13 stuated at Duddingston, was opened in 18,'),3 and the numbf r of boys at present maintained the re is nineteen. Thev arerequired, when admitted, to be of the age of seven and not more than nine years, and are retained for six years. They are tuiglit the ordinary branches r,f education, and Latin, Greek Fl-ench, German, and mathematics.

• I'he /*'"'«'' W"sp, to;. Meadows.— This institution was fnnnrled in 1,U4, by the Freemen of the Incorporated Trades, aided by Mary trskine. widow of James Hair, druggi.t. The governors were incorporated by statute in 1707. The niai agement is vest- d in tills dKicons of the thirteen incorporations, two trades- councillors, two persons of the name of Erskine, the preses of Die society of Bprbers, and nine persons elected by the other governors, in all twenty-seven. Porty-nina girls are maintained m the instatutnon. Those eligible for admission under presenta- tions neld by the Trades Inoorriorations or the Society of Barbers of the city of Fdinburgh are the daughters, eranddauarhters, or great-granddaughters of freemen or craftsmen^ whom failing, anv grl qualihed by age and otherwise presented by the holder of the presentation. They are required, when admitted, to be of the a"e of seven and under that of eleven years, and are not retained above the age of seventeen. They ar- instructed in the English language and grammar, in French and music, in wr tino- arithmttic, geographv, history, sewing, and laundry work. On leaving each girl receives £10 and a Bible.

loTi ^""'*'""7* Academy. Henderson row. was established in 18.4, and incorporated by r."yal charter from George IV. It is a handsonie building, after a design by Mr. Burn, and cost £I6.00n. the Academy 13 under the lupe intendence of a board of fifteen

directors three of whom are elected annually from the body of shareholders. It consists of two departments, a preparatory and upper school. The former, which was opened for the first time in October, 18SS, takes boys from five or six to nine or ten ; and the latter continues their education till eighteen or ninetc n. The upper school IS divided into two p,arts— a cbssic.al school and a modern school. In the former, the boys are taught classics, from the rudiments in the first class to the most advanced Latin and Greek authors in the seventh. Throughout the school attention is i^aid to the writing of c'ssays, and from the fourth class upwards to the study of classical English authors. French is taught in eyei-y class, and German to the modern school, and to the fifth sixth, and seventh classes. The course prepares boys for the nniversities m England and Scotland, for business life, for Sandhurst. Woolwich, and tor the Indian Civil Service. In the modern s' hool boys who ultimately choose this school for the first three classes are n'>t marked off from the class to which they bslong; except in one sub.ject. They are not required to learn Breekin the third class, but may substitute any other subject in which I hey wish spc ial Instruction. All the upper school is under the inspection of the Education Department, and on the reports of the examiners, together with those of the rector and the meters, the removal ot boys from a lower to a higher class is dependent. ^

Edinburgh is tamed for the number and excellence ot Its educa- tional Insbtutlooj, JUe Industrial or Baggea Ecbools, o{ wUloli

the first was instituted in 185.5, and which provide food as well as education, are a great boon to the children of the most wietchfd cl!:S3es, and hiive saved very many from growing up in ignorau' e and vice, fitting them for respectuble and useful t'laces in scciety. Numerous Sunday schools are in bnefidal operation. Many pri- vate academies and schooli of a superior grade are conduced upon the best plans If instruction, and will bo found noticed at the end of the Trades' list in the Directory. The Normal Schools of the Established Church and Free Church are extremely efficient and useful. Ttiey have contributed much to raise the average standard of attainments among teachers in Scotland.

The Orphan Hospital, Dean.— This institution was projected in 1727, by Andrew Gairdner, merchant in Edinburgh; and in 173.5 a hou-e was hired, and thirty children received in it. In 1735 an edifice was erected near the Tr nity College Church ; but by the increase of the c ty this situation being rendered unhealthy, the present building was erected in 1833, from the designs of the late Mr. Thomas Hamilton. The revenue is derived from voluntary cou'ributions and legacies : in addition to the intt rest on accumu- lated donations since its founc'ation. About 120 boys and girls, including presentees and boarders, are maintained in the msli- tution, the benefits i f which are r ot coiifined to any district of Scotland. When admitted, they must be of ihe age of seven and not above ten years ; they receive the beiiefitof a thoroughly good e'lication: suitable to their station in Ufe. a godly brineiiig up, and n comfortable home. Boarders from any part of Scotland are now received into the Hospital at £lti per annum for bo?s, and £14 per am uni for girls, which includes all expenses of what.ver kind.

Trinifi/ Hospital, the oldest charitable insti ution in the city, was tout ded by Mary ofGueldres, in the year 1461. for the r- oeption of thirteen poor pf rsoiis. The building wasdemotished in 1846. along with Trinity College Church, to make way for the North British Eailway, and the funds were distributed in outdo r relief. By interlocutor of the First Division of the Court of Sessii n, of 3rd February, 18f0, a new scheme was authorized tor i he distri- bution of this charity. The number of pensioners, of whom one- eighth are incur.ables on the higher scale of pension ot £25, has been fixed at 60, of whom 22 are appointed by private patrons, and on the lo «' or sf ale of pension of £15 at 100. Applicants for the benefit of this fund require to have resi'ed in Edinburgh for two years at some time, and supported themselves by their own in- dustry f' urine that p'Tiod, without aid from any charity, or be widows or children of burgesses, and must be in decayed circum- stances at the date of their applicati n,and not under 50 years if aee, except where thev are prevented from working by incurable disease, in whi-^h cas3 there is no limit in point of .age.

Alexander Fund, — Formerly this fimd was administered by the Governors of the Ti-inity Hospital, in conjunction with the Trinity Hospital Fund proper, but by interlocutor of the Lords of Council and Session, of 3rd February, 1^80, the management has been vested in a bod,v of trustees, and a scheme adopted by the court for its future administration. Under this scheme the free income is to be divided amongst twelve beiiefii iaries, eight men and four women, with a maximum pension of £27 153. 6d. In the event ot the free income ot the fund being more than sufficient to provide for tln-se, the trustees have power to appoint additional pensioners, and they have discretionary powers as to the amount of such pensions. Applicants for the fund must be unmarried when elect* d, and not under 50 years of age. excepting any additional beneficiaries whom the trustees may appoint, in the selection of whom there shall be no restriction ot sex or marriage. The beneficiar'es shall be indigent persons of good reputation wiio have not fallen into decay through their own vice and prodigality, and who are not in receipt of parochial relief. First. Those of the kindred of Mr. Alexander, of Knockhili, who died in 1696, either uron his father's or his mother's side: Seeondlj', those of the surname of Alexander, who shall apply within three-score days not after any vacancy shall be publicly announced : and Thirdly, other persoris qualified as af'-resaid as the patrons sha'l think fit. All persons bearing the name of Alexander, wh>-ther as their parents* n^ime or their hus- imnds' name, shall lie deemed to fall within the favouring clause of the bequest. Applicants not claiming on the footing of I eing entitled ti a preference must ha e resided in Edinburgh for two yeara, and tor that period must have supported themselves by tb' ir own industry, or at least without aid from any charity.

The Hoi al Blind Asylum and Srhool was formed hy the amalga- mation of the Asylum tor the Industrious Blind and the School for Blind Children atone time located in Gayfield square. The idea ot this ancient institution was first communicated by Dr. Blacklock to Mr. Mil'er, who were both blind from their infancy, but it was chiefly through the active and benevolent exertions of Dr. David .Johnstone, minister of North Leith. aiited by a sub- scription ot £20 at the commencement from the celebrated Wilbi r- torce, that the institution was founded in 1793. In 1836 the school for blind children was founded by Mr. James Gall, and was opened with only one pupil. Mr. Gall was himself a printer, and havii g seen some of Abbey Hauy's books in Paris, he determined to give the B ble to the Scotch blind in raised type. Her Majesty, in 1853, by a deration of 260 guineas, set an example which has been followed by a few since, which secured the perpetual right to nominate one pupil. In 1876 the school premises in Gayfield square, and those f- r females in Nicolson street, being found too small, the directors secured four acres of ground at West Craigmillar. a lovely southern suburb, and opened the building now occupied as schoo and home The educational app'iances are of the first order, and, notwithstanding great scarciry of funds, the directors do nit s^em to have spared expense in supplying the essential apparatus tor the training ot blind children in niu ic, &c. Books In Braille type are printed on the premises. In 1806 property was bought in Nicolson street for £1,575 for the male depart.ment, and in 1833 other p'-operty, in the same street, for £2,300. as a home for the female blind. The lower part of these buidings la advan- tageously laid out In shops, while the upper part is retained as a burraoks for the young men connected with the institution. These

15

EDINBURGHSHIRE

EDINBURGH

SLATER'S

establishments are fitted up with every comfort and aecommooa- tion for the inmates, who now number 247 in all — 19 adult females, 156 adult males, and 42 boys and girls. In the industrial department the females are employed in sewing the covers for mattresses and feather beds, knitting stoi^kinga, &c. The males are ch-efly employed in makintj- mattresses, brushes, baskets, mats, ship fenders, &c., and in the weaving of sacking, matting, and '* rag carpets." no less than 18 looms being emplo_yed in this work. The sales of the above kinds of work for 1387 amounted to dEl8,571. The Nicolson street buildings have recently midergone extensive alterations, at a cost of about £3.500, an elegant new facade, surmounted by stone-faced dormer windows, and a hand- some cornice having been added, with a large centre doorway, and on either side two spacious windows, separated by stone pillars, surmounting the royal arms. In a niche above the windows is the late Handyside Ritchie's bust of Dr. Johnstone, the founder. The governing body consist? of the Earl of Haddington, president; four vice-presidents, and twenty-four directors, chosen at the annual meeting of subscribers of half a guinea and upwards. The endowments amoarit to £10,000, but a debt of £25,000 hangs heavily on the institution.

The Institution for the Education of the Deaf and Dumb, estab- lished in 1810, is a large plain structure, situated in Henderson row. The expense of the building, furnishing, &c.. was upwards of £7,000. Her Majesty is the patroness, and the Buke of Bucoleuch, the president.

The Magdalen Ast/lum was originally instituted in 1797. The building, plain and commodious, is situated in Canoufate, and will accommodate from fifty to sixty penitents. This charity is supported by contribuiions, bequests, and the profits arising from the wor t of the inmates.

There is also an institution known as the Girls' House of Befuge, or Western Reformatory , a.t Dairy, in the western suburbs; and another, called the Kdinburgk Industrial Home for Fallen Women, at Alnwick Hill, near Liberton.

The Ministers' Widows' Fund. — This meritorious scheme, origin- ated in 1743, received the sanction of Parliament in 1744, and was established on its present footing by Acts passed in 1778 and 1314. By the latter act it was provided that an addition of 20 percent, on the former rates should be imposed ; that every person in future admitted to the benefice for the first time, or to an oiSce in a uni- versity, should pay a contribution or entry money of £10. A grant was made of the stipends of the vacant parishes. The four annual rates, to one of which every minister or professor is subject are £3 3"*., £4 14s. 6d., £6 6s.,a"nd £7 17s. 6d. The widow is entitled to an annuity, corresponding to the rate her husband bad chosen ; and'the children, if lie leaves no widow, to provisions of £100, £150. £200,or £250, according to the rate the father may have paid. Similar schemes have been formed by the Society of Writers to the Signet, by the parochial schoolmasters of Scotland, and by the dissenting clergymen ; but this scheme is particularly interesting as having been the first of its kind.

Horn's Charity distributes the interest of £3,500 to day labourers out of employment at Christmas, &c.

Dr. Robert Johiistori's Bequest of £3,000 is equally appropriated in finding employment for the poor, in clothing the boys in Heriot's Hospital, and in support of poor exhibitioners at the University.

The incjmeof Mr. Strathan's Estate is bestowed in small annual sums on poor old people not under ^b years of age, ai;d on orphans not above twelve.

ScougalVs Bequest. — John Scougall, a merchant in Leith, be- quethed £2,0u0, the interest to be paid to daughters of merchants (not shopkeepers) in Leith. They must be Episcopiilians, but whom failing, members of the Established Church. The bene- ficiaries are nominated by the clergymen of St. James's.

Thti Cliarity Workhouse, whSoYiH situated in the southern dis- trict, was erected by voluntary contributions in 1743. The princi- pal funds for the support of this institution are a tax on the valued rents of the city, collections at the church doors, charitable donations andcontributions. The average number of its inmates is upwards of 700. There is also another workhouse in the parish of St. Cuthbert, which was opened in 1762, and is conducted nearly on the same plan as the former.

The -EToiwe o/i?e^(i»e, in Canongate, is for the reception of all persons in a state of destitution.

The New Royal Infirmary, Lauriston place, the foundation stone of which was laid in 1870, was opened by Lord Provoet Boyd, in October, 1879, and is considered to be the finest building of the kind in tlie world ; the cost of its erection was £350,000.

The Royal Public Dispensary, in Richmond street, was founded in 1776. by the late Dr. Andrew Duncan . and is liberally conducted, but st'U too limited in its scale for a population so large as that of Edinburgh; consequently several others have arisen in different localities; iricludin» those exclusively for the eye and the ear.

The New Town Dispensary, in Thistle street, was instituted in 1815, and is supported by subscriptions.

Chalmers's Hospital, in Lauriston place, was opened in 1864. It was erected, anii is maintainel. by funds bequeathed by George Chalmers, plumber in Edinburgh, " for the sick and hm-t." The management of the charity is in the Dean and Faculty of Advo- cates. There are many other charities for tlie relief of the afflicted poor, which will be found noticed, witli their locality, in the listof pxiblic charities and institutions, as well as those for religious objects.

ornamented by a portico and pillars. The Hopetoun Rooms, ia Queen street, are aUo appropriated to balls and concerts. Exclusive of the balls here, many others, as well as concerts, take placi", during the season, vmder distinguished patronagL-^. The national game of golf has several clubs to promote its practice. There are curling and skating clubs also, and a royal company of archers ; the latter had the honour of being the king's body-guardduring the visit of George IV., and more recently to her Maj^^sty Queen Victoria, on her return visit from Balmoral in 1859, and were again present when her Majesty unveiled the statue erected in memory of the Prince Consort, in 1876.

Markets.— The Poultry, Meat, and Fish Markets are built on the rising ground at the south end of the North bridge, and are approa<?tied either from Market street, Cockburn street, or the North bridge. The Waverley Market, in Princes street, is the only market in the city for the sale of fruit and vegetables. The market days are Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Publio meetings, concerts, &c., are held in this market. There are also markets at Stockbridge, and in Broughton street for the conveni- ens of those vicinities, and likewise a corn market and onefor cattk— the former in and the latter contiguous to the Grassmarket . The Neio Corn ^'orcAawg'e, in the Grassmarket, was erected in 1849, from a design by Mr. Cousin. It has a facade in theltalianstyle, but chiefly consists of a structure of iron and glass, 150 feet long and 98 feet broad.

Cemetehies.— The Edinburgh cemetries are all tastefully laid out with walks and flowers, and are worthy of a vi-it. On the south is the cemetery ot the Grange, on the west that of Dairy, on the north-west that of Dean, on tlie north that of Warriston, and on the north-east that of Rosebank. Many of the most celebrated persons who have died in Edinburgh for the last thirty years are interred in these cemeteries.

POPULATION.

The parliamentary bur^h of Edinburgh, which consists of the entire parishes of Greenside, High, Lany Tester, New Greyfriars, New North, Old, Old Greyfriars, St. Andrew. St George. St. John, St Mary, St. Stephen, Tolbooth.Tiinity College, and Tron, and parts of Canongate, Duddingston, Liberton, NorthLeith, St.Cuih- Dert, and of South Leith, contained in 1371 a population of 196,970 and in 1881, 228,190; showing an increase in the tea years of 31,220.

The royal burgh compr'aes the following parishes, viz.: Green- side, High, Lady Tester, New Greyfriars, Now North, Old Grey- friars, St. Andrew, St. George, St. John, St. Mary, St. Stephen, Tolbooth, Trinity College, and Tron.

PLACES OF AMUSEMENT, EXHIBITIONS, MARKETS. &G.

The Theatre Eoyal, on the site o^ the old Adelphi Theatre, which was burned down in 1853, stands at the head ot Broughton street and Leith walk. The Royal Lyceum Jheatre is in Grindlay street, the Royal Priyicess's in Nicolson street, an<l Moss's Theatre of Varieties in Chambers street. The -<4ssffniWj/ i?oo77is are in George street, and were erected in 1787 ; they form part of a plain building,

A FEW PLACES OF ATTRACTION IN THE ENVIRONS OP THE CITY.

Arthur's Seat, on the east of the city, rises to the height of 822 feet above the sea, with a conical summit, abrupt to the west, where is arange of precipice facing the city, called the Salisbury Crags, From it-s summit twelve count es are visible. To the north are the ruins of St. Anthony's Chapel and Hermitage, and near the foot i . St. Anthony's well ; west of Salisbury Crags is the lower hill of Saint Leonard, where existed in former days a religious establishment and a cemetery. The whole of this region is roman- tically grand, and derives additional interest from its being the locality of many interesting scenes in "The Heart of Mid lothian." The (Queen's Drive, a carriage way made in 1344-17, winds round Arthur's Seat, and ascends to such a height as to afford a magnificent view. Arthur's Seat, is included in tlie Queen's Park, and Holyrood Palace is very near the base of Salis- bury Crags. At the opposite or south-western extremity of the park is the village of Duddingston, with its loch, much frequented by anglers in summer, and a very gay scene in winttr during frosts, when skaters and others resort to it to enjoy themselves on the ice.

Br untsfield Links Bxe extensive open grounds situated on the road to Morningside, and are well adapted for the re reation of the citizens and for blea:hingground3 ; here the national game of golf is often played. A Roman Catholi.; Nunnery, the Convent of St. Margaret, was erected here In 1834. To the east of this common are the Meadows, the property of the city, extending almost to Newington. This tract of level ground, adorned with m^ny trees, is about three-quarters of a mile in length, and a little less than a quarter of a mile in breadth, ani it resembles rather one of the rich verdant fields of the Netherlands than a parkin the norlhern kingdom. The walks are kept in a state of praiseworthy neatness, and no carriages or horses are permitted except in a road which crosses the Meadows through an avenue of trees and in the Melville Dnve^ which passes along the whole length of the southern side.

Saint Bernard's Well is a medicinal spring near Stockbridge, on the Water of Leith. The water is sulphurous. Lord Gardenstone purchased the property and erected over the well a small Doric temple, with a circle of eoKinms supporting a dome, and having in the centre a figure of Hygeia. the goddess of health. Atone time this spring was much visited in the morning by citizens who had com[ilaiiits,real or imaginary, which the fancied virtues of Saint Bernard's waters would remove ; but now Stockbridge and its spring are surrounded by streets, and its rural attractions having disappeared, the medicinal ones of the well have become all but neglected. . ^^ „,

Restaxrig, or Restalric, is about a mile east of the Old Town, between the sea shore and Holyrood House. It was formerly an independent parish, with a collegiate church, the fragments of which are still remaining. The burial ground was formerly much used by theEfiscopalians. Close to Restalrig are the spacious Piershill Barracks for cavalry, enclosing a large parade ground.

16

LEITH,

WITH THE PARISHES AND VILLAGES MENTIONED WITH EDINBURGH.

LEITH, theseaport of Edinburgh, a parliamentary burgh, and a coast guard station, is situated on the south shore of the Firth of Forlli. at tlie mouth of the Water of Leith, a stream which rises in the Pentland Hills, and Hows through the north of Edinburgh. It is distant from the Royal Exchange of Edinburgh rather more than one mile and a half. The road between Edinburgh and Leith is called Leith Waik, and is a noble street, busy with incessant traffic. The original name otthis town was hwerieith, which sig- ni lies the month ot the Leith; and though it is indebted to its proximity to Edinburgh for its commercial prosperity, it has often suffered greatly from being involved in the fate of that city, and also from the jealousy of its inhabilants. In 1*3.5, the magistrates of Edinburgh ordained that no merchant of the city should take an Inhabitant of Leith into partnership, and that none of the revenues of Edinburgh should be farmed bv an inhabitant of Leith. The first great disaster which befell this rising town was its seizure and burning by the Earl of Hertford, in 1.5.54. Three years afterwards Leith was again visited and injured by the same general, and in the year 1549, ic became involved in almost every transaction of importance during the regency of Mary of Lorraine, in her efforts to oppose the Reformation, and sustained the horrors of a portracted siege, a garrison of French troops holding it in the interest of the Regent, while it was assailed by the Reformers and their English auxiliaries. Mary Queen of Scots mortgaged the superiority of Leith to Edinburgh, redeemable for one thou- sand merks, with reversion in favoar of Bolhwell, upon which the citizens ot Edinburgh marched to Leith, and by taking possession of it, destroyed its independence. In 1643, the Solemn League and Covenant was signed at Leith, and the inhabitants have ever evinced the sincerity of their attachment to it In 1650, Lambert, the parliamentary gen- eral, took possession of the town, and when Monk became commam1er-in-chief, he resided for some time in it, and by order of Cromwell the citadel was repaired and greatly strengrhened. Dm-ing General Monk's residence he induced a number of English to reside here, who infused a spirit of mercantile adventure'into the inhabitants. In 1715, Leith port, which was called a citadel, was seized by the Jacobites, who after holding it a short time, and plundering the Custom House, hurriedly evacuated it during the night. This fortress was situated about a quarter of a mile to the west of the Custom House, and there only remains of it now the arched gateway. Towards the close of tlie last century the celebrated Paul Jones threatened it, but a sudden storm com- ing on, the buccaneer was obliged to make a precipitate retreat. The subsequent history being involved with that ot Edinburgh, our readers aiereferred to our history of that city for the details. In 1838 Leith was separated from Edinburgh, to which it hid been sold in 1.567. and the common goods, customs, rates, &c., were vested in the provost and magistrates of the town, with the exception of the levenues arising from the harbour and dock dues. The magis- trates ot Leith have the power of admiralty over Leith to a certain extent. Leith is irregularly built, and most of the older streets are crooked and narrow. There were ten wards ot police, each of which formerly had two commissioners, chosen by the inhabitants ; but the commission is now vested in the Town Council, who have the chai-ge of watching, lighting, and cleansing the town. The town is divided by the river, which is crossed by a stone bridge and three drawbridges, into two parts, called North Leith and South Leith. The Water of Leith has long been very filthy, from public works throwing their refuse into it, and from its receiving the sewage of part of Edinburgh and of Leith itself. The effect has been prejudicial to the health of the town. A great scheme of drainage under an Act of Parliament was obtained in 1864, for the conveyance of the sewage by pipes into the sea to the eastward ot the east pier. The opening of the main pipe is far out from the shore, at the Black Rocks. An improvement scheme has been provided tor Leith at considerable cosl., by which it is proposed to make a new street from Great Junction street to Tolbooth wynd. getting out the ruinous tenements lying in the oldest part ot the town. The old buildings have been removed, and the scheme is gradually being carried out. Leith was created a parliamentary burgh in 18.33, and in conjunction with Mus- selburgh and PortobeUo sends one representative to the Imperial Parliament ; the gentleman first returned under the Reform Act was J. A. Murray, Esq., the then Lord Advocate ; the present member is R. C. Munro-Perguaon, Esq. It is governed by a provost and tour bailies, and eleven councillors, and has a sheriff substitute com-t.

DOCKS, TRADE, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, &c. The tidal harbour of Leith has been frequently improved; it now admits vessels of 2.000 tonsburthen. In 1799 the magistrates obtained an act authorising them to borrow £160,000 to execute part ot a range of docks, designed by .John Rennie, Esq., civil engineer. The eastern wet dock was begun in 1810, and finished in 1817. The cost of the whole was £285,108, exclusive of £8.000 for building a bridge over the Water of Leith. The Victoria Dock lies immediately tothe north of Rennie's eastern wet dock. It ■was built by the late James M. Rendel, Esq..c.E., and wasopened over thirty-five years ago. It is 700 feet long by 300 feet broad, and therefore contains about five English «creB. Its entrance is 60

2— Se-a-n

feet T?ride and 34 feet deep at high water.or (5 feet deeper than that of the old dock built by Rennie. Vessels drawing 22 feet are frequently admitted into the Victoria Dock. On the western side of the Victoria Dock is a twenty-ton steam crane, which is extensively used for shipping coals, &c. By an Act of Parliament^ passed in 1826, the debt of the docks was re-luced to £265,000, lent by Grovernment to Edinburgh at the rate of three percent., to be redeemed by a sinking fund formed by a deposit of one per cent, for twelre years, and two per cent, afterwards till the debt ie extinguished, after which the docks revert to the city of Edin- burgh. Government also agreed to expend £19,000 for the extension of the western pier, and the city £2,S00 on the eastern. In 1847 an Act was obtained for the construction of additional docks, and the extension of the pier. Government granting £135.000 for the purpose. There are six graving docks— one of large dimensions, called the Prince of Wales Dock, opened 2nd February, 1363. The dock is 400 feet long, 80 wide, and 24 deep at springtides; so that it is capable of receiPing for repair a tirst- clasa ship of war, or two very heavy trading steamers. Instead of a pair of gates, the dock is opened and closed by floating or sinking an iron caisson. In the beginning of the year 1863, the Leith Dock Commisaioners obtained fro.n the Governmenc Public Works Loan Commissioners a grant of £223,000 for the eonstruution of new works. These works include a great reclamation embankment on the east eands ; a wet dock nearly eleven acres in extent, with an entrance basin of about two acres, and a lock of 350 feet by 60 feet. The plans were prepared by Mr. Eendel and Mr. Robertson. The new dock is immediately east of the present graving dock, and connected with the Larbour by a lock opening from the entrance baisui. The embankment is about 3,500 feet long, enclosing 36 acres. The dock is 1,000 feet long and 450 feet wide. It has 28^ feet of water at high-water springtides. The coping is 6^ feet above high water. The breadth of quay all round the dock is about 2u0 feet, affording room both for road and railway, with every facility for the entrance of vessels at any period of the tide. The Edinburgh Dock, which was commenced in 1374, and was opened by H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh in July, 1881, consists of a centre basin 500 feet long and 650 feet wide, and two basins 1,000 feet long and 200 feet wid'', separated by a jetty havinga width of 250 feet. The total amount of masonry in the wet dock is 100,000 cubic yards. The north and south quays are each 1,500 feet long, and the two sides of the jetty 1,000 feet long each, having a toial quayage in connection with the dock of 6,775 feet. The walls are fifteen feet thick at the base, narrowing in two tiers to eight feet. The new dock cost altogether about i:300,000. Leith now possesses five docks and a total quayage of three miles 808 yards, 1,234 yards of which is the old portion. An extensive and commodious range of warehouses lines the whole length of the south side of the old docks, and the North British and Caledonian Railways are brous{ht direct into the dock- yard. There are two companies in the town engaged in the London and Leith trade, and others in trade between Leith and Hull, Liveri:)ool, Newcastle, Aberdeen, Dundee, Inverness, Wick, Eirkwall, Lerwick, Stirling, Helmsdale, Hamburg, Rotterdam, &c. The greater number of coasting vessels lie in the harbour, the others in the docks. The numerous steam vessels land and take on board both at Leith and Granton . The length of rhe east pier is 3,530 feet ; the pier is built partly of wood and partly of stone ; and the west pier, constructed entirely of wood, is 3,123 feet in length, given a depth of from iO to 25 feet at high water. The principal commerce of Leith lies chiefly in its shipping, foreign and culonial trade, large quantities of grain, cattle, winea, brandies, &c., being imported. Its exports are coal, iron, spirits, and manufactured goods. The manufactures of Leith are con- siderable; they comprise colour and paint works, artificial manure works and bone mills, roperies, canvas, sail and soap making, sugar refining, brewing, distilling, and tanning, fish curing and compering. Ship building is a prominent pursuit in ' he employment of capital and labour, and many fine vessels have been launche^l from the yards. Sawmills are likewise in great activity here. There are very large flour mills ; also very important works for preserving provisions, the manufacture of railway engines, &c. Both the manufactures and trade of Leith have for some years past rapidly increased. The town has also extended in various directions, and is rapidly growing in wealth and prosperity. In 1800 the tonnage of Leith did not exceed 20,000 tons British register, but in 1885 tbe shipping owned in and hailing from the port showed a total of about 140,000 tons divided among 203 steam and sailing ships.

There are seven banking establishments, as will be seen in the list under that head. The church of North Leith stands to the westward of the town, and was erected in 1814, in place of one built in 1496 ; it has a lofty spire, the first compart- ment being of the Doric order, the second Ionic, and the third Corinthian ; the height to the summit of the cross is 158 feet ; the portico is a model of an Ionic temple of the Dissue, near Athens. It can accommodate a congregation