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THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT
OR
THE SOURCES OF THE NILE
AROUND THE GREAT LAKES OF EQUATORIAL AFRICA
AND DOWN THE LIVINGSTONE RIVER
TO THE ATLANTIC OCEAN
HENRY M.^STANLEY
AUTHOR OF "COOMASSIE AND MAGDALa" ETC.
WITH TEN MAPS AND ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY WOODCUTS IN TWO VOLUMES
Vol. II
NEW YORK HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS
FRANKLIN SQUARE
1878
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y T
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by
HARPER & BROTHERS,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, nt Washington.
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A<'' ''/>- ^>/ ^c>^ /jj s^
CONTENTS.
(Fo7. II.)
CHAPTER L
PAGE
Ujiji, its scenery, residents, market, and vicinity — Arab rivals — The circumnavigation of the Tanganika — Commander Cameron and the outflowing Lukuga — The encroaching waters — The legend of the lake — Evening 1
CHAPTER n.
The Lady Alice afloat again — Her mate and crew — Anxiety on her behalf — On hallowed ground — Unwelcome visitors : in the haunts of the Ruga-Ruga — The aborigines' last retreat — A scene of blood — The robbers of the Lake, and their tutelary spirits — A geological problem : were there once two lakes ? — Rising waters — The abode of the genii — A storm — Forest fires — At the mouth of Cameron's "outlet" — The Lukuga creek 18
CHAPTER nL
Back in camp — An epidemic of small-pox — Panic of desertion — Kalulu's disloyalty — Livingstone's lenience — Lnaginaiy terrors — Hairdressing ad abaurlum — Ruanga's opinion of white men — A village sketch — The villagers of tJhombo — Jn puris naturulUms — A touch of human nature — On Livingstone's traces — What is there in feathers ?— The Manyema : their life and manners — Our ass astonishes the natives — Bloodless wars — Nicknames — A tribe with beards but no wives — The con- fluence of the Luama and the Livingstone 61
CHAPTER IV.
At a swinging pace — Tippu-Tib, the Arab trader — News of Cameron and his difficulties— The river that flows North for ever — In Dwarf-land, fighting the dwarfs — Tippu-Tib's conditions — Friends in council — Heads or tails — Kalulu*s accident at Nyangw6 — Its residents and market — A muster of the Expe- dition . 94
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iv CONTENTS.
CHAPTEB V.
PACB
Tippu-Tib's henchmen — In the primeval forest, a wilderness of trees
— Primitive furniture — Our sufferings in the pagans' forest — Tippu-Tib breaks down — A village blacksmith — Soko skulls ; the missing link — Professor Huxley's opinion thereon — The Livingstone — A day dream — The road to the ocean — Timid coimsels — " The Wasambye ! •» — " Ooh-hu ! ooh-hu I " — Suc- cessful diplomacy ., .. 126
CHAPTER VL
" Mama, the Wasambye ! " — The fight in the Ruiki — The lost found
— Dangerous disobedience — In the nick of time — A savage captive — Miisic hath charms — In the haunts of Nature — A town of one street — Deserted villages — Organizing a hospital
— An island wasted by lightning — "The people of the filed teeth " — Primitive salt-making — Hostages captured — At close quarters — Raining arrows — " Bo-bo, bo-bo, bo-bo-o-o-oh ! " — A desperate affair and opportune reinforcements — Cutting the canoes adrift - Tippu-Tib deserts me —My appeal to the " sea children " — Christmas Day among tlie cannibals — " Victory or death" 156
CHAPTER VII.
Farewell to Tippu-Tib — Attacked from both banks — The fat savage makes a bad shot at me — In the home of the elephants — Insect life — In covert — The Lowwa river — A storm on the river — New Year's Day — Bullets against spears — " Sennenneh ! " — Tempting the female mind — The reward of a good deed — A river arraada : crocodile boats — Betwixt cataracts and cannibals 196
CHAPTER VIII.
Fighting betimes — Blazing a path — Wo take an island by storm — A desjicrate dilemma — Road-making under fire — A miraculous escape — A terrible march — Peace by stratagem — Below the Fifth Cataract — O^ir cannibal captives — Fighting the Wana- Rukura — The Wana-Rukura islanders — Approaching the Seventh Cataract — A dci-crted island — The Seventh Cataract of the Stanley Falls — The first of the cataracts — Clear of the Stanley Falls 223
CHAPTER IX.
Again in open water — Frank Pocock feels the position — The Mburra or Yarycnibi — A running fight — " Ya-Mariwa! Ya- Mariwa I " — Our tactics of capture — Monster sjieai-s — Growing
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CONTENTS. V
FiLOI
weary of fighting for life — The power of laughter — Fish creeks — A wasp swarm of canoes — Another invincible armada — A village of ivory — Belies of cannibal feasts — The Well^ of Schweinfurth — Hunted to despair — Their " meat " escapes the cannibals — Wild nature — Among friendly natives — The Congo ! 256
CHAPTER X.
High art in tattooing — Suspicious friendliness — Friends or foes ? — A treacherous attack — The fauna of the Livingstone — Among the "Houyhynyma" — The " Yaha-ha-has " — Frank's courage and narrow escape;— Our fight with the Bangala — The mirage on the river — The great tributary of the Livingstone — Among friends 284
CHAPTER XI.
Running the gauntlet — Kindly solitudes — Amina's death — The humanizing effects of trade apparent — "The most plausible rogrieof all Africa" — The king of Chumbiri; his hospitality, wives, possessions, and cunning — Making up a language — Pythons — The Ibari Nkutu or the Kwango — Treacherous guides — The Stanley Pool — Chief Itsi of Ntamo— We have to give up our big goat — River observations 309
CHAPTER XIL
The struggle with the river renewed — Passing the " Father " — In the '* Cauldron " — Poor Kalulu ! — Soudi's strange adventures — At the " Whirlpool Narrows " — Lady Alice Rapids — Our escape from death — "Isles of Eden " — Thieves amongst us — The Inkisi Falls — The canoes dragged over the mountain — Trade along the livingstone — Ulcers and entozoa — An artful compound 834
CHAPTER Xin.
Glorious timber — Cutting canoes — Frank suffers from ulcers — The episode of the fotished axe — Rain-gange readings — The rise of the river — " Groee-goees " — The Lady Alire breached for the first time —A painful discovery: Uledi's theft — His trial and release — The burning of Shakespeare — The bees of Mas- sassa — Local superstitions — Frank's cheery character . . . . 364
CHAPTER XIV.
Leaving Mowa — The whirling pools of ^lowa — The Jason swept over the falls — The " Little Master '* drowned — Too brave I — " Ah, Uledi, had you but saved him!" — The sympathy of the savages
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▼i CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XV.
PAGB
Mutiny in fhe camp — Again among the cataracts — Frank's body found — The fall of the Edwin Arnold Eiver — Tired out!— - Wholesale desertion — More cataracts — " Gkx)d-bye, my brother ; nothing can save you I '* — Bushing blindly on — Saved again ! — The ./(Mon found .. 409
CHAPTER XVI
Final warnings against theft — Humiliating a protectionist — Kindly tribes — Five of the Expedition abandoned to slavery for theft
— Safeni goes mad from joy— Goaded to crime — Ali Kiboga's adventures — The cataract of Isangila — Only five marches from white feces 1 — Staxmch to the death — Bum — My appeal to Embomma — The forlorn hope — The "powerful man" insults us — Struggling on — " We are saved, thank (xod ! " — " Enough now; fall to " — My letter of thanks — Approaching civilization
— Ajnongst whites ; Boma — The Atlantic Ocean 424
CONCLUSION.
Eabinda — San Paulo de Loanda — Simon's Bay — Cape Town— Natal — 25anzibar — Joy of the returned — The martyrs to geography — Beverie — Laus Deo ! 468
Appjndix 485
Index 552
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LIST OP ILLUSTRATIONS.
(Vol. IL)
FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.
1. Portrait of the Author FrorUiqttMe,
2. Ujijl looking north from the Market-Place, viewed from the
roof of our temM at UjijL (^From a pTwiograph,) .. Tofao$ 1
8. The ** High Places'* of the spirit Mtombwa : View of Mtombwa,
Urungn n ^^
4. In Council: the Oonrtyard of our temb^ at Ujiji. (From a
pJu^ograpK) .. .. .. .. .. .. .. „ 62
5. A Village in Sonth-East Manyema „ 82
6. The desperate situation of Zaidi, and his rescue by Uledi, the
coxswain of the boat „ 233
7. The Fight below the confluence of the Aruwimi and the Living-
stone Rivers .. .. .. .. .. .. .. „ 272
8. The attack of the sixty-three canoes of the piratloal Bangala .. „ 800
9. View of the right branch, first oatnract, of the Livingstone Falls,
from fuur miles below Juemba Island .. .. .. .. „ 836
10. At work passing the lower end of the first cataract of the
Livingstone Falls, near Rocky Island „ 839
11. •'Lady Alice "over the Falls „ 846
12. Cutting out the new " Livingstone " canoe .. .. .. „ 869
13. Passing Ns^to Falls ^ 875
14. The Circumnavigators of the Victoria Nynnza and Lake Tan-
ganika, and Explorers of the Alexandra Nile and Livingstone
(Congo) River „ 382
15. The Massassa Falls, and the entrance intoPocock Basin, or
BoloboloPool n 897
16. Group of Mr. Stanley's followers at Kabinda, West Const of
Africa, just after crossing the " Dark Continent" {From a photograph.) .. .. .. .. .. .. „ 468
17. The recuperated and re-clad Expedition as it appeared at
Admiralty House, Simon's Town, after our arrival on H.M.S.
•Industry' „ 474
1 a Women of the Expedition ,, 480
SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS.
19. A Native of Rna, who was a Visitor at Ujiji 8
20. Kungw^ Peaks. (From a sketch.) .. 23
21. The extreme Southern Reach of Lake Tanganika 35
22. Mtombwa 37
23. Mount Murmnbi 43
24. Ubujw^ and Uguha Head-dress 52
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via LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
irO. FAOH
25. Ugnha headdress />2
26. A Woman of Uguha 53
27. Uhyeya Head-dress .'iS
28. The Spirit Island 57
29. BTsehazy Haven and Gamp, at the Alouth of M'sehazy River .. 64
80. Natives of Ubujwtf GJ
81. A Native of Uhyeya 70
82. One of the VVahyeya of Uhombo (back view) 71
88. A Youth of East Maiijema 81
84. A Manyema Adult 81
85. A Young Woman of Eiist Manyema 82
86. Kitet^ the Chief of Mpungu 91
87. Native Houses at Mtuyu 92
88. "^ Heads for the North and the Lnalaba: Tails for the Sonth and
Katanga" 113
89. A Canoe of the Wenya or Wagenya Fishermen •• .. .. .. II 0
40. Uregga House i:U
41. Stool of Ureg«:a 134
42. Spoons of Ungga • 134
48. Uregga Spear 135
44. Gine Settee 135
45. Bench 135
46. An African Fez of Leopard-skin .. .. .. .. .. .. I3i>
47. A Forge and Smithy at Wan^Kirumbu, Uregga 142
48. Backgammon Tray 145
49. War Hatchet of Ukusu loo
50. Stool of Ukusu IGO
51. View between the Ruiki and Nokanpemba IGl
52. Stewpot of the Wahika 1G8
58. A House in ikoadu .. •• .. .. ig9
54. Canoe Scoop 1S7
55. Scoops 187
66. "Towards the Unknown" lOG
57. War-drums of the Tribes of the Upper Livingstone .. .. .. lui)
58. Mwuna Ntabu Canoe (the ** Crocodile **) 2J0
59. A Baswa Knife .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 228
60. Style of Knives .. .. 228
61. Baswa Basket and Cover 228
62. Cavern, near Kaborabo Islands .. .. .. .. .. .. 242
G3. The Seventh Cataract. Stanley Falls 251
64. Pike, Stanley Fulls 252
65. Fish, Seventh Cataract, Stanley Falls 2.')3
G6. Fish, Stanley Falls 253
67. Palm-oil Jar and Palm- wine Cooler .. .. .. .. .. 25 i
68. Mouth of Drum 255
69. Wooden Signal Dmm of the Wenya or ^\*agen3 a and the Tribes on the
Livingstone .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 255
70. Druiusticks, Knobs being of India-rubber.. .. .. .. .. 2.55
71. Shields of Ituka People 2G1
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LIST OF ILLVSTBATIONS. ix
jro. PAGK
72. Monster Oanoe • 271
73. Paddle of the Aruwimi Cannibals 273
74. Knives, Bubunga 285
75. Double Iron Bells of Uiangi 289
76. The King of Chumbiri 316
77. Great Pip© of King of Chumbiri 317
78. One of the King's Wives at Chumbiri 319
79. Son of the King of Chumbiri 321
80. Over Bocky Point close to Gampa's 338
81. Death of Kalulu 341
82. The Nkenke River entering the Livingstone below the Lady Alice
Rapids 351
83. The new Canoes, the lAcingstone and the Stanley 371
84. View from the Table-land near Mowa .. .. .. .. .. 377
85. In Memoriam : Francis John Pocock 407
86. Fall of the Edwin Arnold River into the Pocock Basin 413
87. The Chief Carpenter carried over Zinga Fall 419
8S. CarapatKilolo 436
S9. Mbinda Cemetery 453
90. At Rest : My Quarters at Kabinda by the Sea. (From a photograph.) 468
91. Expedition at Kabinda. (From a photograph,) 469
MAPS.
1. Map of Western Half of Equatorial Africa.
2. Map of Lukuga Creek. 8. Chart of Stanley FfJls.
4. Chart of Livingstone Fails,
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Ujiji.
THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
CHAPTER I.
XJjiji, its scenery, residents, markets, and yidnity — Aral) riyals — The drcnmnaTigation of the Tanganika — Commander Oameron and tiie ontflowing Lnkuga — The encxoaohing waters — The legend <^ the Lake — Eyening.
The best view of Ujiji is to be obtained from the flat ists. roof of one of the Arab terab^s or houses. The annexed *^^.^* photograph represents a view north from my tembd, which fronted the market-plaice. It embraces the square and conical huts of the Wangwana, Wanya- mwezi, and Arab slaves, the Ouinea palms from the golden-coloured nuts of which the Wajiji obtain the palm-oil, the banana and plantain groves, with here and there a graceful papaw-tree rising amongst them, and, beyond, the dark green woods which line the shore and are preserved for shade by the fishermen.
South of the market-place are the temb^s of the Arabs, solid, spacious, flat-roofed structures, built of clay, with broad, cool verandahs fronting the public roads. Palms and papaws, pomegranates and plan- tains, raise graceful branch and frond above them, in pleasing contrast to the grey-brown walls, enclosures, and houses.
The port of Uji ji is divided into two districts — Ugoy, occupied by the Arabs, and KaweM, inhabited by the Wangwana, slaves, and natives. The market-place is in VOL. n. — 1
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June.
! THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. -
1876. Ugoy, in an open space which has been lately contracted to about 1200 square yards. In 1871 it was nearly 3000 square yards. On the beach before the market- place are drawn up the huge Arab canoes, which, pur- chased inGoma on the western shore,have had their gun- wales raised up with heavy teak planking. The largest canoe, belonging to Sheikh Abdullah bin Sulieman, is 48 feet long, 9 feet in the beam, and 5 feet high, with a poop for the Nakhuda (captain), and a small forecastle.
Sheikh Abdullah, by assuming the air of an opulent ship-owner, has offended the vanity of the governor, Muini Kheri, who owns nine canoes. Abdullah christened his " big ship " by some very proud name ; the governor nicknamed it the Lazy. The Arabs and Wajiji, by the way, all give names to their canoes.
The hum and bustle of the market-place, filled with a miscellaneous concourse of representatives from many tribes, woke me up at early dawn. Curious to see the first market-place we had come to since leaving Kagehyi, I dressed myself and saimtered amongst the buyers and sellers and idlers.
Here we behold all the wealth of the Tanganika shores. The Wajiji, who are sharp, clever traders, having observed that the Wangwana purchased their supplies of sweet potatoes, yams, sugar-cane, ground- nuts, oil-nuts, palm-oil and palm-wine, butter, and pombe, to retail them at enormous profits to their countrymen, have raised their prices on some things a hundred per cent, over what they were when I was in Ujiji last. This has caused the Wangwana and slaves to groan in spirit, for the Arabs are unable to dole out to them rations in proportion to the prices now demanded. The governor, supplied by the Mutware of the lake district of Ujiji, will not interfere, though frequently implored to do so, and, consequently, there are frequent fights, when the Wangwana rush on
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A KATIVE OF RUA, WHO WAS A VISITOR AT UJIJI.
dressed goat-skin covering the loins, and hanging down to within six inches above the knees, with long depend- ing tags of the same material. All these tribes are related to each other, and their language shows only slight diflFerences in dialect. Moreover, many of those inhabiting the countries contiguous to Unyamwezi and Uganda have lost those special characteristics which distinguish the pure unmixed stock from the less favoured and less refined types of Africans.
Uhha daily sends to the market of Ujiji its mtama,
June. Ujiji.
THE MARKET OF UJIJI. 3
the natives with clubs, in much the same manner i876 as the apprentices of London used to rush to the rescue or succour of one of their bands.
Except the Wajiji, who have become rich in cloths, the rural natives retain the primitive dress worn by the Wazinja, Wazongora, Wanyambu, Wanya- Ruanda, Kishakka, Wanyoro, and Wanya-Nkori, Wasui, Watusi, Wahha, Warundi, and Wazige, namely, a
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4 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. grain {millet), sesamum, beaas, fowls, goats, and broad- ^^^y tailed sheep, butter, and sometimes oxen ; Urundi, its ^ goats, sheep, oxen, butter, palm-oil and palm-nuts, fowls, bananas, and plantains ; Uzig^ — now and then only — ^its oxen and palm-oil; Uvira, its iron, in wire of all sizes, bracelets, and anklets ; Ubwari, its cassava or manioc, dried, and enormous quantities of grain, Dogara or whitebaiit, and dried fish; Uvinza, its salt; Uguha, its goats and sheep, and grain, especially Indian corn ; rural Wajiji bring their buttermilk, ground-nuts, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, bananas and plantains, yams, beans, vetches, garden herbs, melons, cucumbers, sugar- cane, palm-wine, palm-nuts, palm-oil, goats, sheep, bullocks, eggs, fowls, and earthenware ; the lake-coast Wajiji bring their slaves, whitebait, fresh fish, ivory, baskets, nets, spears, bows and arrows ; the Wangwana and Arab slaves bring slaves, fuel, ivory, wild fruit, eggs, rice, sugar-cane, and honey from the Ukaranga forest.
The currency employed consists of cloths, blue "Kaniki," white sheeting "Merikani" from Massa- chusetts* mills, striped or barred prints, or checks, blue or red, from Manchester, Muscat, or Cutch, and beads, principally ** Sofi," which are like black-and-white clay-pipe stems broken into pieces half an inch long. One piece is called a Masaro, and is the lowest piece of currency that will purchase anything. The Sofi beads are strung in strings of twenty Masaro, which is then called a KhetSy and is sufficient to purchase rations for two days for a slave, but suffices the freeman or Mgwana but one day. The red beads, called Sami-sami, the Mutanda, small blue, brown, and white, will also readily be bartered in the market for provisions, but a discount will be charged on them, as the established and universal currency with all classes of natives attending the market is the Sofi^
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THE WAJIJL 5
The prices at the market in 1876 were as follows : — i876.
June.
Sheetlnc clutha Ujiji.
of'4 yarn* UiQg. '' *
Ivory per lb. .. .. 1
Igoat 2
1 sheep •• »»«.•« •« l'^
12 fowls ^ li
1 bullock 10
1 potful — equal to 3 gallons — of wine 2*
1 „ „ « „ ©f palm oil .. ..4
60 lbs. of grain— Mtama ,, 1
90 lbs. „ Indian com 1
i-gal. potful of honey in the comb 1
1 slave boy between 10 and 13 years eld 16
1 „ girl „ „ „ „ „ .... 60 to 80
1 ^ „ „ 13 „ 18 „ .... 80 to 200
1 „ woman,, 18 „ 80 years old .. .. 80 to 130
If, „ „ 80 „ 50 „. ^ .. 10to40
1 „ boy „ 13 „ 18 ^ .... 16 to 50
1 „ man „ 18 „ 50 ,^ .^ .. 10to50 /
The country of Ujiji extends between the Liuch^ river, along the Tanganika, north to the Mshala river, which gives it a length of forty-five miles. The former river separates it from Ukaianga on the south, while the latter river acts as a boundary between it and Urundi. As Ujiji is said to border upon Uguru, a dis- trict of Uhha, it may be said to have a breadth of twenty miles. Thus the area of Ujiji is not above 900 square miles. The Mtemi, or king, is called Mgassa, who entertains a superstitious fear of the lake. His resi- dence is in a valley amongst the mountains bordering upon Uguru, and ho believes that in the hour he looks upon the lake he dies. This superstitious fear may have some connection with the Legend of the Lake, which I shall give later.
I should estimate the population of the country to be very fairly given at forty to the square mile, which will make it 36,000 souls. The Liuch^ vallev is com- paratively populous, and the port of Ujiji — consisting of Ugoy and KaweM districts — has alone a population of
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6 THROUQH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. 3000. Kigoma and Kasimbu are other districts P°!!** patronized by Arabs and Wangwana.
The Wajiji are a brave tribe, and of very indepen- dent spirit, but not quarrelsome. When the mode- rate fee demanded by the Mutware of Ugoy, Kawele, and Kasimbu is paid, the stranger has the liberty of settling in any part of the district, and as an excellent under- standing exists between the Mutware and the Arab governor, Muini Kheri, there is no fear of ill-usage. The Mgwana or the Mjiji applying to either of them is certain of receiving fair justice, and graver cases are submitted to an international commission of Arabs and Wajiji elders, because it is perfectly understood by both parties that many moneyed interests would be injured if open hostilities were commenced.
The Wajiji are the most expert canoemen of all the tribes around the Tanganika. They have visited every country, and seem to know each lieadland, creek, bay, and river. Sometimes they meet with rough treatment, but they are as a rule so clever, wide-awake, prudent, commercially politic, and superior in tact, that only downright treachery can entrap them to death. They have so many friends also that they soon become in- formed of danger, and dangerous places are tabooed.
The governor of the Arab colony of Ujiji, having been an old friend, was, as may be supposed, courteous and hospitable to me, and Mohammed bin Gharib, who was so good to Livingstone between Marungu and Ujiji, as far as Manyema, did his best to show me friendly attention. Such luxuries as sweetmeats, wheaten bread, rice, and milk were supplied so freely by Muini Kheri and Sheikh Mohammed that both Frank and myself began to increase rapidly in weight.
Judging from their rotundity of body, it may fairly be said that both the friends enjoy life. The governor is of vast girth, and Mohammed weighs probably only
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ujyi.
ARAB RIVALS. 7
two stone less. The preceding governor, Mohammed i876 bin Sab', was also of ample circumference, from which ^'*°® I conclude that the climate of Ujiji agrees with the Arab constitution. It certainly did not suit mine while I was with Livingstone, for I was punished with remittent and intermittent fever of such severe type and virulence that in three months I was reduced in weight to seven stone !
Muini Kheri's whole wealth consists of about 120 slaves, male and female, eighty guns, eighty frasilah of ivory, two tembes, or houses, a wheat and rice field, nine canoes with oars and sails, forty head of cattle, twenty goats, thirty bales of cloth, and twenty sacks of beads, 350 lbs. of brass wire, and 200 lbs. of iron wire, all of which, appraised in the Ujiji market, might perhaps realize 18,000 dollars. His friend Mohammed is probably worth 3000 dollars only ! Sultan bin Kassim may estimate the value of his property at 10,000 dollars, Abdullah bin Suliman, the owner of tlie Great Eastern of Lake Tanganika, at 15,000 dollars. Other Arabs of Ujiji may be rated at from 100 to 3000 dollars.
Sheikh Mohammed bin Gharib is the owner of the finest house. It is about 100 feet long by 25 feet in width and 14 feet in height. A broad verandah, 10 feet wide and 40 feet long, runs along a portion of the fronts and affords ample space for the accommoda- tion of his visitors on the luxurious carpets. The building is constructed of sun-dried brick plastered over neatly with clay. The great door is a credit to his carpenter, and his latticed windows are a marvel to the primitive native trader from Uhha or Uvinza. The courtyard behind the house contains the huts of the slaves, kitchens, and cow-house.
By his Arab friends Sheikh Mohammed bin Gharib
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ujUi.
8 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. is regarded as an enterprising man, a good friend, but ^"°** too liberal to his slaves, for which reason they say he is on the verge of bankruptcy. He is so much in debt that he has no credit at Zanzibar.
There is a good deal of jealousy between the Arabs of Ujiji, which sometimes breaks out into bloodshed. When Sayid bin Habib enters Ujiji trouble is not far ofiF. The son of Habib has a large number of slaves, and there are some fiery souls amongst them, who resent the least disparagement of their master. A bitter reproach is soon followed by a vengeful blow, and then the retainers and the chiefs of the Montagues and Capulets issue forth with clubs, spears, and guns, and Ujiji is all in an uproar, not to be quieted until the respective friends of the two rivals carry them bodily away to their houses. On Arabs, Wangwana, and slaves alike I saw the scars of feuds.
Abdullah bin Suliman and has partisans are settled in Kasimbu, because Muini Kheri*s hot-headed young Arab relatione, Bana Makomb^ and Muini Hassan, are for ever endangering the peace by their insolence. The feud began by a slave of Abdullah's having attempted to stab Bana Makomh^, because the haughty young Arab had spurned him once with his foot. Only a few drops of the bluest blood from the aristocracy of Sa*adani were drawn in the happily abortive attempt, but the aristocrats mustered in force. The coast Arabs residing at Kigoma advanced towards Ujiji with 300 guns, and called upon the governor to arm to avenge the blood that had been shed. The governor, however, called upon the Mutwar^, and the Wajiji swarmed by the hundreds to attack Abdullah bin Suliman. Fortunately Abdullah was prudent and met them with only a few men. But though he mildly expostulated with them that it was a drunken slave who was the cause, he
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UjijL
NO NEWS FEOM HOME. 9
was condemned to lose his right hand, from which fate, isra. however, he was saved by the governor relenting and ^"^^ demanding instead the head of the murderous slave.
It will be manifest, then, that the safety of a Euro- pean at Ujiji would be but precarious. Any of his people, inspired by porube or native wine, might, at any moment, in drunken fury, mortally wound an Arab or Mswahili of the coast, the result of which would be that the European would either have to forfeit all his goods or his life, or decamp with his people immediately to save himself.
Life in Ujiji begins soon after dawn, and, except on moonlight nights, no one is abroad after sunset. With the Arabs — to whom years are as days to Europeans — it is a languid existence, mostly spent in gossip, the interchange of dignified visits, ceremonies of prayer, au hour or two of barter, and small household affairs.
There were no letteis for either Frank or myself after our seventeen mcmths' travels around and through the lake regions. From Kagehyi, on Lake Victoria, I had despatched messages to Sayid bin Salim, governor of Unyanyembe, praying him to send all letters addressed to me to Muini Kheri, governor of Ujiji, promising hira a noble reward. Not that I was sure that I should pass by Ujiji, but I knew that, if I arrived at Nyangwe, I should be able to send a force of twenty men to Muini Kheri for my letters. Though Sayid bin Salim had over twelve months' time to comply with my moderate request, not a scrap or word of news or greeting refreshed us after the long blank interval ! Both of us, having eagerly looked forward with certainty to receiving a bagful of letters, were therefore much disappointed.
As I was about to circumnavigate the Tanganika with my boat, and would probably be absent two or three months, I thought there might still be a
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Ujgi.
10 THROUGH THE DABK CONTINENT.
1876. chance of obtaining them, before setting out west- •'"°®- ward, by despatching messengers to TJnyanyembe. Announcing my intentions to the governor, I obtained a promise that he would collect other men, as he and several Arabs at Ujiji were also anxious to communicate with their friendb. Manwa Sera therefore selected five .of the most trustworthy men, the Arabs also selected five of their confidential slaves, and the ten men started for TJnyanyembe on the 3rd June.*
Before departing on the voy«nge of circumnavigation of Lake Tanganika, many affairs had to be provided for, such as the wellbeing of the Expedition during my absence, distribution of suflBcient rations, provision- ing for the cruise, the engagement of guides, &c.
The two guides I obtained for the lake were Para, who had accompanied Cameron in March and April 1874, and Ruango, who accompanied Livingstone aad myself in December 1871 to the north end of Lake Tanganika.
The most interesting point connected with this lake was its outlet. Before starting from Zanzibar, I had heard that Cameron had discovered the outlet to Lake Tanganika in the Lukuga river, which ran through Uguha to the west, and was therefore an afiluent of Livingstone's great river.
In Commander Cameron's book, vol. i. p. 305, the following sentences, bearing upon what he personally saw of the Lukuga, are found : —
" In company with the chief, I went four or five miles down the river, until navigation was rendered impossible, owing to the masses of floating vegetation. Here the depth was 3 fathoms, breadth 600 yards, current 11 knots, and sufficiently strong to drive us well into the edge of the
♦ My five trustworthy men arrived at Unyanyemb^ within fifteen days, hut from some cause they never returned to the Expedition. We halted at Ujiji for seventy days after their departure, and when we turned our faces towards Nyangw6, we had given up all hopes of hearing from civilization.
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RISING WATEES. 11
vegetation. I noticed that the embouchures of some small streams jgy^
flowing into the river were unmistakably turned from the lake^ and that June,
the weed set in the same direction. Wild date-palms grew thickly ujiji. down the riyer."
In opposition to this statement of Cameron's was the evidence taken by me at Ujiji.
Para, his guide, said that the white man could not have seen the river flowing towards Rua, because it did not. .Ruango, the veteran guide, declared that he had crossed it five times, that it was a small river flowing into the Tanganika, and that if I found it to flow in a contrary direction, he would return me all his hire.
Natives from the Lukuga banks whom we found in Ujiji asserted positively that there were two Lukugas, one flowing into Lake Tanganika, the other into Rua.
Muini Kheri, gov.ernor of Ujiji, Mohammed bin Gharib, Muini Hassan, Bana Makomb^, and Wadi Safeni, all of whom had travelled across this Lukuga river, also declared, in the most positive manner, that during the many times they had crossed the " Lukuga," they either passed over it on dry land or were ferried in canoes across the entrance, which appeared to them only an arm of the lake ; that until the white man had come to Ujiji, they had never heard of an outflowing river, nor did they believe there was one.
The positiveness of their manner and their testimony, so utterly at variance with what Commander Cameron had stated, inspired me with the resolution to explore the phenomenon thoroughly, and to examine the entire coast minutely. At the same time, a suspicion that there was no present outlet to the Tanganika had crept into my mind, when I observed that three palm- trees, which had stood in the market-place of Ujiji in November 1871, were now about 100 feet in the lake, and that the sand beach over which Livingstone and I took our morning walks was over 200 feet in the lake.
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June. Ujiji.
12 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1870, I asked of Muini Kheri and Sheikh Mohammed if my impressions were not correct about the palm-trees, and they both replied readily in the affirmative. Muini Kheri said also, as corroborative of the increase of the Tanganika, that thirty years ago the Arabs were able to ford the channel between Bangw^ Island and the mainland; that they then cultivated rice-fields three miles farther west than the present beach ; that every year the Tanganika encroaches upon their shores and fields; and that they are compelled to move every five years farther inland. In my photograph of Ujiji, an inlet may be seen on a site which was dry land, occupied by fishing-nets and pasture ground, in 1871.
I proceeded to Bangw^ Island, before setting out on my voyage, and sounded the channel separating it from the mainland. Between a pebble<-overed point of Bangwe and the nearest tongue on the mainland, I dropped mv lead thirteen times. In mid-channel I found 18, 21, 23, 24, 25, 22, 23, 20, 19, and 17 feet.
The Wajiji lake-traders and fishermen have two interesting legends respecting the origin of the Tan- ganika. Ruango, the veteran guide, who showed Livingstone and myself the Rusizi river in 1871, and whose version is confirmed by Para, the other guide, related the first as follows : —
" Years and years ago, where you see this great lake, was a wide plain, inhabited by many tribes and nations, who owned large herds of cattle and flocks of goats, just as you see Uhha to-day.
" On this plain there was a very large town, fenced round with poles strong and high. As was the custom in those days, the people of the town surrounded their houses with tall hedges of cane, enclosing courts, where their cattle and goats were herded at night from the wild beasts and from thieves. In one of these en-
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TEE LEGEND OF THE LAKE. 13
closures lived a man and his wife, who possessed a deep 1876. well, from which water hubbled up and supplied a ^^T beautiful little stream, at which the cattle of their neighbours slaked their thirst.
" Strange to say, this well contained countless fish, which supplied both the man and his wife with an abundant supply for their wants ; but as their possession of these treasures depended upon the secrecy which they preserved respecting them, no one outside their family circle knew anything of them. A tradition was handed down for ages, through the family, from father to son, that on the day they showed the well to strangers, they would be ruined and destroyed.
"It happened, however, that the wife, unknown to her husband^ loved another man in the town, and by and by, her passion increasing, she conveyed to him by stealth some of the delicious fish from the wonderful well. The meat was so good, and had such a novel flavour, that the lover urged her to inform him whence and by what means she obtained it ; but the fear of dreadful consequences, should she betray the secret of the well, constrained her to evade for a long time his eager inquiries. But she could not retain the secret long, and so, in spite of all her awe for the Muzimu of the well, and her dread of her husband's wrath, she at last promised to disclose the mystery.
"Now one day the husband had to undertake a journey to Uvinza, but before departure he strictly en- joined his wife to look after his house and effects, and to remember to be silent about the fountain, and by no means to admit strangers, or to go a-gadding with her neighbours, while he was absent. The wife of course promised to obey, but her husband had been gone only a few hours when she went to her lover and said, * My husband is gone away to Uvinza, and will not be back for many days. You have often asked
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June. Ujiji.
14 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. me whence I obtained that delicious meat we ate together. Come with me, and I will show you.'
" Her lover gladly accompanied her, and they went into the house, and the wife feasted him with Zogga (palm wine) and Maramba (plantain wine), TJgali porridge made of Indian corn, and palm-oil, seasoned with pepper — and an abundance of fish meat.
** Then when they had eaten the itian said, * We have eaten and drunk, and we are now full. Now pray show me whence you obtain this wondrous white meat that I have eaten, and which is far sweeter than the flesh of kid or lamb or fowl.'
** * I will,' said she, * because I have promised to you to do so, and I love you dearly ; but it is a great secret, and my husband has strictly warned me not to show it to any human being not related to the family. There- fore you, my love, must not divulge the secret, or betray me, lest some great evil happen to me and to us all.'
" * Nay, have no fear of me ; my mouth shall be closed, and my tongue tied, lest danger should happen to the mistress of my heart.'
" So they arose, and she took him to the enclosure, jealously surrounded by a tall thick fence of matete cane, and taking hold of his hand she led the im- patient lover within, and showed him what appeared to be a circular pool of deep clear water, which bubbled upward from the depths, and she said —
" * Behold ! This is our wondrous fountain — is it not beautiful ? — and in this fountain are the fish.'
*' The man had never seen such things in his life, for there were no rivers in the neighbourhood except that which was made by this fountain. His delight was very great, and he sat for some time watching the fish leaping and chasing each other, showing their white bellies and beautiful bright sides, and coming up to the surface and diving swiftly down to the bottom. He
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UjijL
TEE MOTHER OF THE LUKUGA. 15
Iwd never enjoyed such pleasure ; but when one of the i876. boldest of the fish came near to where he was sitting ^^^^ he suddenly put forth his hand to catch it. Ah, that was the end of all ! — for the Muzirau, the spirit, was angry. And the world cracked asunder, the plain sank down, and down and down — the bottom cannot now be reached by our longest lines — and the fountain overflowed and filled the great gap that was made by the earthquake, and now what do 'you see ? The Tanganika ! All the people of that great plain perished, and all the houses and fields and gardens, the herds of cattle and flocks of goats and sheep, were swallowed in the waters.
" That is what our oldest men have told us about tho Tanganika. Whether it is true or not I cannot say."
" And what became of the husband ?" I asked.
^ Oh, after he had finished his business m Uvinza, he began his return journey, and suddenly he came to some mountains he had never seen before, and from the top of the mountains he looked down upon a great lake ! So then he knew that his wife had disclosed the secret fountain, and that all had perished because of her sin.'*
The other tradition imparted to me by the ancients of Ujiji relates that many years ago — how long no one can tell — the Luwegeri, a( river flowing from the east to the lake near Urimba, was met by the Lukuga flowing from the westward, and the united waters filled the deep valley now occupied by the Tanganika. Hence the Luwegeri is termed ** the mother of the Lukuga.'*
Still another tradition relates that the Luwegeri flowed through the plain by Uguha, and into the great river of Rua, but that when the plain sank the Lu- wegeri flowed into the profound gulf caused by the sudden subsidence of what had once been a plain.
The Waguha have also their legend, which differs slightly from that of the Wajiji. They say that at a
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Ujiji.
16 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
187«. very remote period there was a small hill near TJrungu, ^"^.^ hollow within, and very deep and fiill of water. This hill one day hurst, and the water spread over a great depression that was made, and became the lake we now see.
I made many attempts to discover whether the Wajiji knew why the lake was called Tanganika. They all replied they did not know, unless it was because it was large, and canoes could make long voyages on it. They did not call small lakes Tanganika, but they called them Kitanga. The lake of Usukuma would be called Tan- ganika, but the little lakes in Uhha (Musunya) would be called Kitanga. Nika is a word they could not explain the derivation of, but they suggested that it might perhaps come from Nika, an electric fish which was sometimes caught in the lake.
A rational definition of Nika I could not obtain until one day, while translating into their language the English words, given in the comparative table of African languages annexed to these volumes, I came to the word ** plain," for which I obtained nika as being the term in Kijiji. As Africans are accustomed to describe large bodies of water as being like plains, *' it spreads out like a plain,'^ I think that a satisfactory signification of the term has finally been obtained, in ** the plain-like lake."
The people of Marungu call the lake Kimana, those of TJrungu call it lemba, the Wakawendi call it Msaga, or " the tempestuous lake."
Westward from Ujiji the lake spreads to a distance of about thirty-five miles, where it is bounded by the lofty mountain range of Goraa, and it is when looking north- west that one comprehends, as one follows that vague and indistinct mountain line, ever paling as it recedes, the full magnificence of this inland sea. The low island of Bangwe on the eastern side terminates the bay of
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AT TEE CLOSE OF DAT. 17
Ujiji, wliicli rounds with a crescent curve from the i876. market-place towards it. j'""**
On very clear days the eyes may trace the eastern ^^^ shore to the south heyond the mouth of the Liuch^, curving to the Ulambola hills, and then rounding sh'ghtly eastward, reappearing in the imposing moun- tain heights of Cape Kabogo.
Very pleasant are the idle hours of evening at tJjiji, watching the clouds of sunset banking them- selves above dark Groma, and observing the lurid effects of the brilliant red on their gloomy masses and on the ever ruflSed waves, tinging with strange shades the gorgeous verdure of the ejistem shore, and the lofty mountain ridges which enfold the deep-lying lake. To the ears are borne the sonorous moan and plaint of the heavy waves, which, advancing from the south-west in serried foam-capped lines, roll unceasingly apon the resounding shore.
At this hour, too, the fuel-laden canoes from Ulom- bola are hurrying homeward, with oar and sail. The cattle, lowing to expectant calves, and the goats bleat- ing for their kids, are hurrying from the pastures in advance of the tiny herd-boys, the asses' feet clatter as they go, bearing their masters home from Kigoma or Kasimbu, the loud hailing of native friends an- nounces the evening meal ready, and the spiral columns of blue smoke ascend from many wood-fires, as we sit here to observe the advance of the evening shades, and to take a last look at the daylight, as it wanes and fades over the shores of the Tanganika. VOL. n. — 2
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18 rnnouoE tee dark continent.
CHAPTER n.
Tho Lady Alice afloat again — Her mate and crew — Anxiety on her behalf — On hallowed ground — Unwelcome Tisitors : in the haunts of the Ruga-Ruga — The aborigines' last retreat — A scene of blood ^- The robbers of the Lake^ and their tutelary spirits — A geological problem : were there once two lakes? — Rising waters — The abode of the genii — A storm — Forest fires — At the mouth of Cameron's " outlet " — The Lukuga creek.
1876. The saucy English-built boat which had made the ac- ^n*-^^ quaintance of all the bays and inlets of the Victoria Nyanza, which had been borne on the shoulders of sturdy men across the plains and through the ravines of Unyoro, had halted on the verge of the cliff rising above Beatrice Gulf, had thrust her bows among the papyrus of the Alexandra Nile, ridden gaily over the dark lakes of Karagw^, and crossed the inundated plains of Usagusi, and the crocodile-haunted river of Uviiiza, is at last afloat upon the deep-blue waters of the Tanganika.
She is about to explore the mountain barriers which enfold the lake, for the discovery of some gap which lets out, or is supposed to let out, the surplus water of rivers which, from a dim and remote period, have been pouring into it from all sides.
She has a consort now, a lumbering, heavy, but staunch mate, a canoe cut out from an enormous teak- tree which once grew in some wooded gorge in the Goma mountains. The canoe is called the Meo/u, and is the
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Ujiji.
""TAKE CARE OF TOUBSELVESJ" 19
property of Muini Klieri, governor of Ujiji, who has isre. kindly lent it to me. As he is my friend, he says he ^°^* ^^ will not charge me anything for the loan. But the governor and I know each other pretty well, and I know that when I return from the voyage, I shall have to make him a present. In Oriental and African lands, remuneration, hire, compensation, guerdon, and present are terms nearly related to one another.
The boat and her consort are ready on the 11th June 1876. The boat's crew have been most carefully selected. They are all young, agile, faithful creatures. Their names and ages are as follows : Uledi, the cox- swain, 25 years; Saywa, his cousin, 17; Shumari, his brother, 18; Murabo, 20; Mpwapwa, 22; Marzouk, 23; Akida, 20; Mambu, 20; Wadi Baraka, 24 ; Zaidi Rufiji, 27 ; Matiko, 19. Two supernumeraries are the boy gun-bearers, Billali and Mabruki, 1 "^ and 15 years respectively. After eighteen months' experience with them it has been decided by all that these are the elect of the Expedition for boat-work, though they are by no means the champions of the march. But as they have only light loads, there has never been reason to com- plain of them.
There is much handshaking, many cries of "Take care of yourselves," and then both boat and canoe hoist sail, turning their heads along the coast to the south.
Kasimbu, two miles from Ugoy to Ujiji, sends forth her Arab and slave inhabitants to cry out their fare- wells, and half an hour afterwards we are at the mouth of the Liuche river.
The reason why Arabs, Wajiji, and Wangwana have been more than usually demonstrative is that they will not believe that such a frail structure as our boat will be able to endure the heavy waves of the Tanga- nika. They declared we should all be drowned, but our Wangwana have ridiculed their fears, and quoted her
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20 TEBOUGH TEE DARK CONTINENT.
1870. brilliant exploit round a lake twice the size of the June 12. Tanganika, and so at last they had come to be *'"'^ satisfied with a dismal " Well, you shall see !'*
During nearly the whole of the next day our voyage to the south is along the forest-clad slopes of Ulambola and the tawny plains of Ukaranga, until we arrive at the mouth of the Malagarazi river. At 3 p.m. we rowed up river, which at the mouth is about 600 yards wide, and sends a turbid brown stream into the lake. When a continuous south-west wind blows, its waters are known to tinge the lake with its colour as far as Ujiji. The river soon narrows to 200 yards, and about five miles up to 150 yards. I sounded twice, and obtained over 50 feet each time. The southern bank is very mountainous, but on the opposite side stretches a plain until the detached ranges of Ukaranga become massed, about five miles from the lake, and, running easterly, form the northern bank of the river.
On the 13th our voyage was along the bold moun- tain spurs of Kawendi,. forming a steep, rock-bound coast, indented at frequent intervals with calm, pool- like bays, and their height© clothed with solemn woods.
At noon we were oflf Kabogo's lofty headland, and remembering that Dr. Livingstone had said that he could find no bottom at 300 fathoms, I sounded a mile off shore, and found 109 fathoms. At two miles off I found no depth with 140 fathoms. I then fastened sixty fathoms more,, but at 1200 feet obtained no bottom.
About four miles south of dreaded Kabogo, on a narrow strip of sand,, we beached our boat and canoe far out of the heavy surf, and then climbed the 2000 feet-high slopes in search, of game ; but the grass was high, the jungle dense, the slope steep and fatiguing, and we had to return without sighting a single head.
Next day we coasted along land familiar to me from
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Jane 15 UrimtML
ON HALLOWED GROUND. 21
ray journey with Livingstone to Unyanyembe, and at i876. 7 P.M. encamped at Uriraba, about a mile south-west of the river Luwajeri, or Luwegeri.
Having been so successful in January 1872, I sallied out the next day over ground which I looked upon with reverence. The exact place covered by our little t^nt, only 6 feet square of land, was hallowed by associa- tions of an intercourse which will never, never be re- peated. I recognized the tree above which we hoisted our mighty crimson and white banner to atti'act the lagging land caravan, the plain where I had dropped the zebra, the exact spot where I shot a fine fat goose for breakfast, the aspiring peak of Kivanga, the weird looking mountains of Tongwe, I knew my road here, and dwelt upon all its features, until the old life seemed renewed, and all things seemed as before.
But I resumed my search. In an hour I am two miles from camp, and in view of a herd of zebra. Billali becomes feverish lest I should miss the game, and, like an honest, faithful servant taking enormous interest in his master's success, lies down to hug the ground in piteous stillness. I advance a few paces cautiously behind a scraggy acacia, and in a few seconds two of the noble creatures are dead, and the others are sweeping round a clump of hills, whimper- ing for their lost companions. As we have now enough meat to last us several days, I give them their liberty.
The day is devoted to cutting the meat into long strips and drying it over wooden gi-ates, while each of the forty men composing the lake exploring band seems profoundly impressed with the necessity of forestalling future demands on his digestive organs by consuming injudicious quantities there and then.
In the midst of this most innocent recreation there stepped forth to our view some sinister objects — Ruga-
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Jane 16, Urimba.
22 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. Ruga ! As undesirable as wolves in a stern Siberian winter to an unarmed party in a solitary sledge are the Ruga-Ruga to peaceful travellers in an African forest or wilderness. Whatever the accident that brought them, their very presence suggested the pos- sibility and probability of a bloody struggle. They are bandits, wretches devoted to plunder and murder, men whose hands are at all times ready to be imbrued in blood.
They are representatives of that tribe which has desolated and depopulated beautiful Kawendi from the Malagarazi river down to the Rungwa ? All alike — whether Arabs, Wajiji, Wangwana, Wanyamwezi, or the aborigines of the land — owe them an unpaid debt of vengeance for the blood they have shed. It was not our special task, however, to undertake the repay- ment, therefore neither by word nor look did we betray any antipathy.
We gave them gifts of meat at their own request The tobacco gourd passed round in their polluted, crimeful hands, and we grasped their hands in token of amity — and parted.
On the 17th June we continued our voyage from Urimba towards Kungwe cape, one of the projecting spurs from the Kungwe mountains, and in the evening camped on Bongo Island, a few miles south-west from Ndereh, the robbers' village. We were visited in the night by about sixty of them armed with muskets. Though it was an unusual hour, and an unseasonable one for receiving visitors, we avoided trouble, and by parting with cloth and exhausting the powers of suavity, we happily avoided a rupture with the wild and bloody men of Ndereh, and before dawn stole away unperceived on onr journey.
The peaks of Kungw^ are probably from 2500 to 3000 feet above the lake. They are not only interesting
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THE ABORIGINES IN THEIR LAST STRONGHOLD. 23
from their singular appearance, but also as being a refuge for the last remaining families of the aborigines of Kawendi. On the topmost and most inaccessible heights dwells the remnant of the once powerful nation which in old times — so tradition relates — overran Uhha and Uvinza, and were a terror to the Wakalaganza. They cultivate the slopes of their strongholds, which amply repay them for their labour. Fuel is found in the
1876. June 18.
Kungwe.
KUN(JWK PKAK8.
(From a sketch near the entrance to the Luwuluwju torrent htd.)
gorges between the y>eaks, and means of defence are at hand in the huge rocks which they have piled up ready to repel the daring intruder. Their elders retain the traditions of the race whence they sprang ; and in their charge are the Lares and Penates of old Kawendi — the Muzimu. In the home of the eagles they find a pre- carious existence, as a seed to reproduce another nation, or as a short respite before complete extermination.
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24 TEBOUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. The best view of this interesting clump of mountain June 18. ijeiVhts is to be had off the mouth of the torrent Luwu-
Kungw^ , ^
lungu.
From Cape Kungwe south, the coast as far as Ulam- bnla consists of a lofty mountain front, pierced by several deep and most picturesque inlets, gorges, ravines, and rifts. Into these pours the Luwulungu, rushing along a steep, stony bed, from the chasms and defiles over- shadowed by tlie tall peaks of Kungwe — and the Lubugwe, emptying its waters into a pretty cove pene- trating to the very heart of the mountain wall. At an angle of 45° this mountain wall rises up to the height of 2000 feet, clothed from base to summit with the verdure of cane, wild grasses, and tall straight trees with silvery stems. Then next comes the Kasuma inlet, and here, straight before our eyes, is seen a river dropping, in a succession of falls, from the lofty summit, into shadowy depths of branching tamarinds, acacias, and teak. All is silent in the deep-bosomed cove except the rhythmic waterfall, and the trees stand still, as tliongh fascinated by the music, and the grim heights frewn a silent approval ; the pale blue arm of the lake rests expectant for the moment when it shall receive the impetuous child of the mountains which it sees leaping down to it from above, and flashing so brightly at every great leap. Along the glorious, green, steep headlands we wind in and out, cast a glance in at Numbi's pretty cove, and encamp for the night near the bold cape of Ulambula.
We resumed the voyage on the 10th, and, shortly after leaving our camp in the neighbourhood of the cape, saw a point of land connected by a narrow neck with the mainland, under which were two natural arches, spanning two channels. From the cape the mountain range gradually recedes from the lake, until, near the Rugufu river, it again approaches and finally forms the headlands of Buyramembe'.
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A DEED OF BLOOD. 25
A little south of the cape the crest of a small and i876. lately submerged island was also seen. At noon I took ^^ ^^' observations for latitude, at the north end of Kabogo, an island lying parallel to the mainland at a distance of from 300 to 500 yards. On the shores, both of mainland and island, flourishes the borassus palm. Kabogo was once densely peopled, but the bandits of Ndereh, the scourge of Kawendi, have caused them to emigrate to other districts to crave protection from chiefs more powerful than their own.
About 2 P.M. we came in view of Kiwesa, which appeared from the lake a very large village. But as we approached its shores under sail, we were struck with the silence which reigned around, and the sight of a large herd of buflFalo grazing near the village still more astonished us.
The guides declared that only five weeks before they had stopped in it and traded with Ponda, the chief, and they could give no reason why — as two boats under sail would most likely attract the attention of the natives — the people of Ponda did not appear on the shore.
We resolved to venture in to discover the cause. There was a deathly silence around. Numbers of earth- enware pots, whole, and apparently but little used, were strewn about the beach and among the reeds flanking the path which led to the village, besides stools, stafiB, hand-brooms, gourds, (fee. (fee. This was ominous. There was probably a trap or a snare of some kind laid for us. We retreated therefore hastily to the boat and canoe, and thirty men were armed. Thus, better prepared against the wiles of savage men, we advanced again cautiously towards the village.
As we were surmounting the high ground on which the village was built, we saw a sight which froze the blood — the body of a poor old man, in a decomposed state, with a broad spear-wound in the back, and near it
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26 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. much dried blood. He had probably been dead five or
June 19. * i
SIX days.
A few yards farther, we saw the decapitated corpse of another maD, and 10 feet from it, in a furrow or water channel, the bodies of three men and a woman, one of them dislimbed.
We arrived before the village. The defences were broken down and burnt. About fifty hnts still stood nnharmed by fire, but all the others were consumed. A few scorched banana stalks stood as a witness of the fury of the conflagration. But despite the black ruin and the charred embers which so plentifully strewed the ground, evidences were clear that flight had been hasty and compulsory, for all the articles that constitute the furniture of African families lay scattered in such num- bers around us that an African museum might have been completely stocked. Stools, mats, spears, drinking- vessels, cooking-pots of all sizes, walking-stafis, war- clubs, baskets, trenchers, wooden basins, scoops, &c. There were also abundant proofs that this ruin was recent ; a few wood-rails still smoked, the hearths were still warm, the dead were not putrefied. A coal-black cat made a dash from one of the houses yet standing, and the sudden motion startled ns all in this place of death and vengeance.
Ponda, the chief of this village, had no doubt given some provocation to this unknown enemy. Para thought the enemy must have been the robbers of Ndereh, for the condition of the village bore signs of superior energy in the attack. And yet it had been constructed with a view to secure immunity from the fate which generally overtakes weak communities in Africa in the neighbourhood of ferocious and war-loving tribes. A wide ditch — in some parts 10 feet deep — and a strong palisade, with an earthwork, surrounded the settlement. The lake was close by to supply water, the country
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Rugufu.
THE LAKE ''EATING TEE LANDr 27
near it was open, and the sharpshooters' nest-liko i87ft towers commanded a wide view. From some thirty ^^J„J,^* bleached skulls arranged before Fonda's own house we argued that he did not himself fail to proceed to the same extremes which his enemies had now adopted to his utter ruin. It is the same story throughout Africa.
We resumed our voyage for the mouth of the Rugufu river. 1'he shore between Kiwesa and the river is comparatively low. The waves have so beaten and shaken the low red bluffs and soft ferruginous clay that numerous landsKps are constantly occurring. The debris are then vigorously pounded and crushed by the surf, and at length they are spread out into a narrow line of beach at their base, over which the spluttering waves surge up continuously.
The impression received at Ujiji, that the Tanganika is rising, was confirmed whenever we neared low shores. Elspecially was it the case at the Rugufu river, and Para the guide, as we entered it, stood up and exclaimed : —
" Oh, mother, mother, mother, see ye now ! When I was with that other white man here, we camped on a strip of land which is now buried in the water ! The Tanganika is indeed eating the land !"
The Rugufu oozes out from the midst of a broad bed of papyrus and reeds between precipitous banks.
On leaving the river we coasted along the bluff, steeply rising slopes of a mountain range which trends south-south-east as far as the settlements of Ruhinga, Kafisya, Katavi, and Kantamba.
Between the Rugufu and Buyramemb^ Point a stratum of a very dark hornblende slate, is visible rest- ing upon gneiss in undulating, vertical, or diagonal lines ; further on we come to a stratified quartzose and greenstone rock. On the crest of this part of the range and its projecting spur is a thin forest of poor trees. The soil too is poor, and much mixed with shaly debris.
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June 19. G«zeK
28 TEROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876.^ The mouth of the Gezeh river is a frequent haunt of herds of buffaloes, and also, being a fine haven, of trading canoes. Among the stories related of this place is one of a wonderful escape of a party of Wajiji traders from the bandits of Ndereh. The robbers stole into the camp while the Wajiji were all asleep, but some of the canoemen, awaking, punted their boats out of reach, and shouted to their comrades, who sprang into the water to avoid the fate that would otherwise have certainly overtaken them all.
The settlements of Kafisya, and the others just men- tioned, have such an ill repute that I cannot imagine any necessity inducing a traveller to cultivate the ac- quaintance of the evil-conditioned people, unless, of course, he is so rich in cloth and followers that waste of them is of little consequence to him.
It is said that when they see the Wajiji trading canoes pass by them, the robbers pray to the Muzimu of Katavi to induce the Msaga — the tempestuous sea — to drive them ashore. The Muzimu of Katavi is one of the most powerful spirits along the shores of the Tanganika, according to legendary lore. Though he is capable of much mischief, ho takes freaks of charity into his whimsical head, such as gratuitously killing buffaloes and then informing the inhabitants where the meat may be found ; he is also said to have a relentless animosity towards the bandits of Ndereh, and frequently entraps them to their destruction. A conical knoll is called, after this spirit, Katavi's Hill.
Before the mouth of the Mkombd river there lies a low submerged island, just west of south from Katavi. Only a few shrubs and the heads of some tall cane were visible above the surface of the water.
From Gezeh to Igangw^ Cove was a good day's journey against the south-easter which blew strongly against us. Igangwe Cove penetrates about a mile deep
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FROM OEZEH TO MKARENQE. 29
into the mountain folds. Though it was the season when i876. the grasses are becoming sere, and some of the trees lose '^ ^^' that vivid greenness of foh'age which is their glory during the rainy season, the aspect of the slopes had still a freshness and beauty which, with the placid mirror-like cove, made a picture worth preserving.
A day's journey south by east took us to the village of Karema — the chief being Massi-Kamba, a sub-chief of Kapufi, king of Fipa. It is situated in the angle of a bay which begins at Igangwe Point and terminates in the weird rock-piles of Mpimbw^ Cape.
All that mass of looming upland from Igangwe to within a few miles of Karema is included in the country of Kawendi or, as it is sometimes called, Tongw^. South of that line begins Fipa.
Arabs are beginning to establish themselves at Karema for trade, the Wa-fipa being more amenable to reason than the ** scattered and peeled" tribes of Tongw^.
Between Karema and Mpimbwe Cape lies a fine country studded with coves and hills, square-topped and round. Game is abundant and easy of approach. A bufialo and a small red antelope were obtained by me here, the two shots supplying the crews with abundance of meat
Proceeding some eight miles south-west towards Mpimbwe, we come to a narrow ridge rising about 600 feet above the lake. Its shore is deeply indented, and the wash of waves has bared enormous masses of granite.
At the south-western corner of this bay there is a neck of low land which all but connects Mpimbw^ ridge with the mainland ; only half a mile's breadth of low land prevents Mpimbwe being an island. Near Kipendi Point, which is halfway between Mpimbwe ridge and Karema, there is a tree in the lake which was pointed
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30 TEROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. out to me as being not many years ago on dry land.
M°°*b*l "^^^^^ ^^ "^^ ^ ^^^* of water around it!
Mpimbwfe Cape oflfers a view similar to the rocks of Wezi — of which there is a photograph in these volumes —only of a still more gigantic size and a ruder grandeur.
Their appearance betrays the effects of great waves which have at one time swept over them, pouring their waters into their recesses, cleansing by force every cranny and flaw of their vegetable mould, and washing out of them every particle of soil, until, one day, by some sudden convulsion of nature, the lake subsided, leaving, a hundred feet above its surface, these grey and naked masses of granite.
Any one who has seen on a rock-bound coast the wnr of sea-wave against granite, basalt, and sandstone, will at once recognize the eflects visible at Mpimbwd. There lie piled up rocks, hundreds of tons in weight, some of them appearing to rest in such precarious positions that it seems as if the finger of an infant would suflSce to push them into the deep blue lake. These, however, are not scored and grooved as are those exposed to the eroding influences of ceaseless ocean waves; they are cleanly fractured, with their external angles only exhibiting a rough polish or round- ness wliich I take to be clear signs that at some remote time they were exposed to waves of great power. Besides, the condition of the rocks at the water-line confirms this theoiy.
Still, it is strange that the lake should have been rising steadily ever since living men can remember, and that those rocks of Mpimbw^ should bear witness to the lake's subsidence.
On the 2r)th June, after coasting the western side of this extraordinary range and proceeding south some fifteen or sixteen miles, we arrived at Mkerengi Island,
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Jane 25. Kirando.
FREAKS OF NATUItE. 31
m the bay of Kirando; the large island of Makokorao i876. lying to west of us a mile off". The natives of these parts are very amiable, though extremely superstitious. At the north-west end of Makokorao there is another lately submerged island. Close to the south-west end is a group of inhabited islands, Kankamba and Funeh being the largest and most fertile.
Kirando is situated among other large villages in what appears to be a plain, hemmed in on the east by the continuation of the mountain ridges which we lost sight of when we left Karema Bay. The truncated cone of Chakavola terminates the ridge of Mpimbwfe, and h'es north-east from Mkerengi.
Continuing our voyage southerly along the coast between the isles of Kankamba and its brothers and the shore of the mainland, and passing a couple of creeks rimning deep in-shore, we came to Cape Mun- tuwa. From this cape to Msamba Island, where we encamped, the lake is edged by one successive series of gigantic blocks and crags of granite. Rock rises above rock, and fragment above fmgment. Here towers a colossal mass the size of a two-storied house, bearing upon it a similar mass perhaps entire, but more pro- bably split with a singularly clean and fresh fracture, and there springs up from the surrounding chaos a columnar block like a closed hand with outstretched fore-finger — ^but everywhere there is the same huge disarray, ruin, and confusion.
We had need to be cautious in sailing along the coast, because for several hundred yards into the lake the rocky masses, which the uneasy billows only exposed in glimpses, rose nearly to the surface.
A suspicion flashed into my mind as these new features revealed themselves that in remote times this part of the lake — from Mpimbwe south — was a separate lake, and that Mpimbwe ridge was connected with
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82 THROUGH THE DABK CONTINENT.
1876. some portion of the western coast — probably the June 26. gQuthem portion of Goma — for while coasting from the extreme north end of Lake Tanganika down to Mpimbw^, I saw nothing resembling in character this portion of the coast. In no part of all the eastern coast down to Mpimbw^ is there anything to lead me to suppose that the lake was ever higher than at present ; but from Mpimbwe to Msamba I see numerous traces that the lake has been many yards higher than it is at present. All this dreary ruin of wave-dismantled and polished rock was at one time covered with water.
On the 26th we camped at Mtosi, where Livingstone, who calls it Motoshi, camped on the 23rd October 1872. The chiefs name is Kokira. A beautiful little bay leads from the lake to the miserable village where he lives.
We rested on Msamba Island for the evening of the 27th. The islanders told us that there was a cave about 60 yards in length on the mainland opposite, where they sometimes hid in time of danger. For a small island Msamba is densely populated, and every inch seems cultivated. The islanders are clever manu- facturers of a strong, coarse, cotton cloth : cotton being abundant in Fipa. The Ruguku river empties into Msamba Bay.
The irregular ridge which follows the coast between Msamba Island and Waupembe, our next journey, is remarkable for a solitary columnar rock rising from 50 to 80 feet high and about half a mile from Column Point. Rounding Kantentieh Point, we have a view of three columnar rocks, the central one being singularly like a mutilated Memnonium. These columns are visible from a considerable distance north or south.
Before reaching Wanperabe, Para, the guide, gathered a peculiar kind of berry called owindi, from a low scrubby tree, whose appearance was anything but pro-
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COASTING TEE LAKE. 33
mising for such a fragrant production as he now isis. showed to us. The odour was not unlike that of J"^*^^', lavender, and its strength was such that all in the boat near him were benefited by its exquisite perfume.
In the little cove close to Wanpembe, on the north side of the point on which it is situate, the boat floated over the submerged fence of a village, and her keel was 3 feet above it.
We obtained abundance of provisions at this large village, but as there were some Watuta strangers within the palisades, our visit was not an agreeable one. However, despite their insolence, the peace was not broken.
Minza, a neighbouring village, is also very large, and possesses a strong stockade, the base of it being em- banked with the earth excavated from the ditch.
There appears to be no diminution in the altitude of the mountain ranges which lie along the entire east coast of the Tanganika, or on the western side, as we have had the west mountains plainly in view since leaving Mpimbwd. Now and then we saw small streams issue into the lake, but met no river of any importance, until we came to the Zinga, or Mui-Zinga,- as the Wajiji call it, which separates Fipa from Urungu.
On the 30th we were coasting along the base of the mountain ranges of Urungu, and passing by Kalavera Point came to a bay before which were two small grass- covered islets. On a point of the mainland, nearly opposite these, stands Kakungu village. This point is formed of a grey shaly rock supporting a white clay, out of which the Wajiji on their return homeward paint the bows of their canoes. The scenery just beyond is bold and imposing.
Kirungwd Point consists of perpendicular walls —
from 50 to 200 feet high above the lake — of a fine VOL. n. — 3
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June 30. KakuDgn.
84 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. reddish Bandstone with horizontal strata. Their pecu- liar appearance may he imagined when the boat's crew cried out : —
"Oh, mother, this is a fort! See, there are the windows, and here is one of the gates/'
Kirungw^ Point appears to be a lofty swelling ridge, cut straight through to an unknown depth. As may be seen from a glance at the sketch of the **High Place of the Spirit Mtombwa," on the opposite side of the lake, there seems ground for believing that this ridge was once a prolongation of the plateau of Marungu, as the rocks are of the same material, and both sides of the lake show similar results of a sudden subsidence without disturbance of the strata.
South of Kirungw^, or Castle Point, there lies what we may almost call an island, which the guides said a few years ago was connected with the mainland. It is almost entirely separated now. A village which once nestled comfortably in the hollow between the rising ridges is now half buried in water. The huts appeared ready to collapse, for the water had already flooded them. This village was called Ma-Zombe.
In the evening, as we prepared to encamp, four canoes of Ujiji, loaded with women and children, to the number of sixty-four — slaves from the Rufuvu river and from Muriro's — passed by our camp.
The bay of Kawa, which we passed through next day, is very picturesque ; woods clothe the slopes and heights, and huts for the accommodation of the Muzimus, or spirits, have been erected in several of the bends. Kawa river empties into this bay.
During the 2nd and 3rd July we rowed close to the uninhabited shore, and at noon of the 3rd arrived at the extreme south end of the lake — which we ascer- tained to be 8° 47' south latitude — ^in the district of Ukituta. The little stream Kapata issues into the lake
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THE SOUTHERN END OF THE LAKE.
35
at this end through a dense and dark grove, the dead trees standing in front of the grove bearing witness to the destructive action of the rising waters.
I scoured the country eagerly in search of game, but, though tracks of bufifalo were numerous, I failed to ob- tain a glimpse of a single head. Safeni, who was the coxswain of the Meofu canoe, accompanied me, and
1876. July 3.
Ukituta.
THE EXTBEME SOUTIIEBN BEACH OF LAKE TANGAKIKA.
pointed out various points of interest in connection with Livingstone, as we followed the road which he had travelled over in his last fatal journey to Lake Bemba. The myombo and borassus palm flourished on the higher terraces.
On the 4th, after rounding a point of a ridge — three miles from the Kapata — which lay north, we turned westward between Ntondwe Island and the mainland, and then passing by Murikwa Island, we reached, in
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\\.
^ ,L
* ■ ":■. U
r -i' • .0 hli^
' ■ */. •. . M * h.^f ^'' '•< !■ >^^ nT''\
' ■ . i: ■ ; .'s' villi :i (' vti :.."! fi'. : . ■ * " ^ '' ■ '.. '*s 'u: a * :! ^ '^ .fuvi;
hWb a^Mi i]m'., 1 (^f -'Ih' ^^t)j';i.o ox
\T. -,, 1 ., .
' 'I'M. -I .*; * 'HI ii i»v ^'"^ j^a iio
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THB "HIGH PLACKSJ" OF TUK SPIRIT MTOMBWA: VIEW OF MTOMBWA URUNGU.
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86 TEBOUQE THE DABK CONTINENT.
1876. two hours, the southern termination of the western J«iy ^ shore of the Tanganika, whence may be seen the Wezi wang a. ^.j^^^ tumbling down from the plateau of Urungu.
The village of Mwangala, where we camped, was at first hidden from our view by a dense line of water- cane, which sheltered its small fishing-canoes from the storms of the lake. One glance at the village fence informed us that here also was evidence that the lake was rising. We asked the natives if they did not think the water was gaining on them.
** Can you not see ?" said they. " Another rain and we shall have to break away from here, and build anew.**
" Where does the water of the lake go to ?"
" It goes north, then it seems to come back upon us stronger than ever."
" But is there no river about here that goes towards the west ? '*
" We never heard of any.**
That part of the western coast which extends from Mbete or Mombet^, to the south, as far as the Rufuvu river, is sacred ground in the lore of the ancients of Urungu. Each crag and grove, each awful mountain brow and echoing gorge, has its solemn associations of spirits. Vague and indescribable beings, engendered by fear and intense superstition, govern the scene. Any accident that may befall, any untoward event or tragedy that may occur, before the sanctuaries of these unreal powers, is carefully treasured in the memories of the people with increased awe and dread of the Spirits of the Rocks.
Such associations cling to the strange tabular mounts or natural towers, called Mtombwa, of which a sketch is annexed. The height of these is about 1200 feet above the lake. They once formed parts of the plateau of Urungu, though now separated from it by the same
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Hh '•P.Il.I! PL • 1 .' • Of IJj}- .I'.i- ^''(^
y." ;)V. ';\\ \ I i,[
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36 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. two hours, the southern termination of Jaiy ^ shore of the Tanganika, whence may ' "'""^'"- river tombling down from the pl.^ ' . • , The village of Mwangala, ^' .\ c first hidden from our vie'' cane, which sheltered * '• f
storms of the lak^ v :• \! t
informed us th" i * ' . . . i
was rising, /,.-'* ^ ' . •
the wa^
"»" :»" ; ■ ■• ''11 :,. .-. n: ."! ;
I k'V. ,
: )\\ :tT, -,
P 1 ' -111 1 .tx r.M
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THE "HIGH PLACEb" OF THE SPIRIT MTOMBWA: VIEW OF MTOMBWA URUNGU.
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TEE ABODE OF THE SPIRITS OF THE STORM. 37
agency which created the fathomless gulf of the Tan- i876.
•1 July 5.
, . ,' . 1* /. M 1 Mtombwa.
Within a distance of two miles are three separate mounts, which bear a resemblance to one another. The first is called Mtombwa, the next Kateye, the third Kapembwa. Their three spirits are also closely akin to one another, for they all rule the wave and the wind, and dwell on summits. Kateye is, I believe, the son of
MTOMBWA.
Kapembwa, the Jupiter, and Mtombwa, the Juno, of Tanganika tradition.
As we row past close to their base, we look up to admire the cliffy heights rising in terraces one above another ; each terrace-ledge is marked by a thin line of scrubby bush. Beyond Kateye, the grey front of the paternal Kapembwa looms up with an extraordinary height and massive grandeur.
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38 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. From Kapembwa to Polombw^ Cape the plateau ^^J^. merges in a cliff-crowned wall 1500 feet above the lake. The cliff itself is probably 200 feet high, rising above a slope bristh'ng with great rocks half hidden by the verdure of trees, bush, and grass. Yet the natives cultivate some part, and their fields were seen far up the steep ascending slopes.
On the 6th we left the neighbourhood of Polombwe, at a place called Umisepa, and rowed round into the Rufuvu river.
This river is about 400 yards wide, and retains that width for about three miles — flowing with a current of a knot an hour, and between lofty wood-clothed moun- tains— and then broadens out into a lake-like expanse nearly a mile wide. From the right or south bank of the river, a plain slopes gradually to the grand cliff- crowned walls of Kapembwa. From here to Liende village, where we camped, our course lay east-south- east.
Here, as elsewhere, the water has encroached upon the soil, and has flooded a large portion of land for- merly devoted to tillage. It is a populous spot, indeed the most populous we had seen since leaving Ujiji. Our reception by the people was most cordial, and I was not sorry to become acquainted with such gentle crea- tures. Not one angry word or insolent look was exchanged, but they visited us with the greatest con- fidence, and a Uvely interest for barter. We obtained such abundance of provisions here that we might have cruised for a month without having to call at any native port.
The chief, Kiumeh or Chiuma-Nanga, who lives at Mkigusa village, was visited with all due ceremony, and proved a most kindly old man. I gladly rewarded him for his small presents of food, and separated from him with feelings of attachment.
^fe"
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A SOTP'WESTER ON THE LAKE. 89
Livingstone, who was here in May 1867, writes of i876. this plain and river as follows : — '^''^^ ^'
" We came to a village about 2^ west of the confluence. The village has a meadow about four miles wide, in which buffaloes disport themselves, but they are very wild, and hide in the gigantic grasses. The Lofu—or Lofabu (Eufuvu)— is a quarter of a mile wide, but higher up 300 yards.*'
Between the 6th July 1876 and May 1867, that is, in nine years' time, the river Rufuvu has encroached upon the "meadow** which Livingstone saw by over a thousand yards !
It is true the plain or meadow is very low, and that 2 feet more of a rise would extend the river over half a mile more of ground, but the proofs are gather- ing that the lake has been steadily rising. What was meadow land in the days when Livingstone made the acquaintance of the people of Liende is now clear water half covered with growths of pale-blue lotus. The depth of the river in mid-channel is twenty-one feet.
I should estimate the population of the plain from Polombw^ westward to where the river narrows be- tween the hills, a district of about eight square miles, as about 2000 souls. We heard of Wangwana and some Arabs camping at a village called Kungwe higher up the river on the left bank, but as we had no occasion for their acquaintance we did not deem it necessary to go through the form of visiting them.
On the 7th, soon after quitting the Rufuvu river, we had a rough experience of the worst Ma anda — " south-wester " — Para or Ruango, our guides, had ever been in. The Meofu was soon disabled, for its rudder was swept away, but being towed behind by a rope, it was fortunately not lost, while our boat flew with double-reefed lug over the wild waves like a seagull. The tempest sang in our ears, and the waters hissed ns they flew by us with great high curling crests. But Kasawa Cape was still before us, and no shelter could
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40 THROUQH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. be obtained until we had rounded it. We shook a July 7^ j,^^£ ^^j^ j^g|. ^^ might be swamped, and the increased
force swept us over the topmost crests at such a speed as made Para and Ruango set their teeth. The canoe was out of sight; along the rock-bound shore thun- dered the surf; the wind was rising into a hurricane, but Kasawa was getting nearer to view, and we held on with all sail. In fifteen minutes we were safe behind the grej' bluffs of the headland, in a little creek amid a heap of driftwood, and the haunt of hippopo- tamus and crocodile. I sent a land party back to hunt up news of the missing canoe, and by night received the glad news that soon after they were disabled they had managed to beach their boat without injury.
Between Kasawa and Kipimpi capes there are deep bays, which I have taken the liberty of calling the Cameron Bays.* A sterile and bleached country stretches on every hand around these bays, and the general appearance of their sterility is somewhat in- creased by the chalky character of some of the low cKflFs.
North of the river Rufuvu extends Uemba. Ruemba — the country of the kke L'iemba — ^in the language of the great Bisa tribe, which all speak, with slight differences of dialect, in this region, signifies " lake." Mapota River separates Uemba from Marungu.
Between Kipimpi Cape and Kalambw^ Cape, King Muriro, or " Fire," an immigrant from Unyamwezi, has, with the aid of a colony of restless spirits, established a formidable village called Akalunga, close to the lake. It is a resort for slavers, for Muriro has numbers of slaves on hand to exchange for powder and guns, and his people are always roving about on the look-out for more.
• So called after Verney Lovett Cameron, Commander, E.N., the first to navigate the Bouthem half of Lake Tanganika.
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FOREST FIRES. 41
From Kalambwe Cape northward the mountains i876. loom higher and steeper, the shore is indented with J^^^ ^' many narrow inlets, vertical strata of greenstone being thus exposed, with thin forests crowning the loose soil which covers them. The depressions between the hilltops are numerous and shallow, consequently the drainage is quickly carried away in small rills.
Beyond the Mapota the scenery becomes still bolder, and the more imposing woods impart with their varied hues of foliage and waving crowns a picturesqueness that since leaving Fipa has been wanting in the land- scape of the stupendous and upspringing, terraced plateau wall of Western Urungu, or in the uniform contoxu-s of Eastern Urungu.
At a camp near an inlet north of Kalambwe Cape we set fire to some grass to have a more open view of our surroundings. In an hour it had ascended the steep slope, and was raging triumphantly on the summit. Three nights after we saw it still burning about fifteen miles north of the locality whence it had first started, like a crown of glory on a mountain-top.
Observation of this fire, and many others, explains why, in the midst of African -uplands nourishing a dense forest, we suddenly come across narrow, iar- penetrating plains covered with grass. They are, no doubt, so many tongue -like extensions from some broader, grass-covered expanses caused by fierce fires. Wherever the ground retains an excessive quantity of moisture, grasses, with stalks as thick as cane, spring up during three months* rain to a height of 8 to 10, sometimes 15, feet. In May these grasses become sere, and by June are as dry as tinder. The smallest spark suflBces to set them in a flame, and the noise of two brigades of infantry fighting would hardly exceed the terrible rack, crackle, and explosions made by the onrush of the wind-swept element. It devours every-
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42 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. thing that stands before it, and roasts the surface of the J"»7 12. gI.Q^Jld^ leaving it parched, blackened, and fissured, arungu. Though the mountains of Marungu are steep, rugged, and craggy, the district is surprisingly populous. Through the chasms and great canons with which the mountains are sometimes cleft, we saw the summits of other high mountains, fully 2500 feet above the lake, occupied by villages, the inhabitants of which, from the inaccessibility of the position they had selected, were evidently harassed by some more powerful tribes to the westward.
The neighbourhood of Zongweh Cape is specially distinguished for its lofty cones and great mountain masses. Mount Murumbi, 2000 feet above the lake, near Muri-Kiassi Cape, is a striking feature of the coast of Marungu.
The wooded slopes and dense forest growths which fill the gorges are haunts of what the Wangwana call " Soko," a distinctive title they have given either to gorillas or chimpanzees. I heard the voices of several at Lunangwa river, but as they were at a consider- able distance from me, I could not distinguish any great difference between the noise they created and that which a number of villagers might make while quarrelling.
The Rubuko, or Lofuko, a considerable river, divides Marungu from Tembwe. On the south side of the river is Mompara, or, for short. Para, remarkable as being the place whereat Livingstone embarked in canoes, February 1869, to proceed to Ujiji for the first time (* Last Journals,* vol. ii.) : —
" 14^^ February 1869. — Arrived at Tanganika. Parra is the name of the land at the confluence of the river Lofuko/'
The chief of the Para village is patronized by Jumah Merikani, who, while he is absent in Rua collecting
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MOUNT MURUMBL
43
1876.
Mompara.
slaves and ivory, entrusts his canoes to the chiefs charge, from which it appears that the latter is a ^^"1^^^^ trustworthy man. Formerly Sheikh Sayid bin Habib honoured him with the same confidence.
Four hours' sail brought us to the wooded headlands of Tembwe, the most projecting of which is about twenty-five miles from Makokomo Island, in the Bay of Kirando, on the east coast of the lake.
MOUNT MUBOMDI.
Near this point is seen a lofty range, rising a few miles from the lake in an irregular line of peaks, which, as it is depressed towards the north, presents a more arid appearance, and presently forms a range of a much lower altitude than the mountains of Tongwe, Fipa, Urungu, or Marungu. This continues — with gaps here and there for rivers to escape through to the lake — until a little north of Kasenge' Island, where it
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44 THROUGH THE BABE CONTINENT.
1876. rises again into the mountains of Goma, the highest of Temblt ^^^ round Lake Tanganika.
At Kankindwa, which is in a little cove near Tembwe Cape, a native told us that the Lukuga flowed out of the lake to Rua ; another denied that flatly, and a third said that the Lukuga flowed out of the lake towards Rua, but that, meeting another river descending towards the Tanganika, it was stopped, and the two rivers formed a lake.
As we sailed north from Tembwe and observed the comparatively low altitude of the Uguha range, I began to feel that it was, of all the countries we had seen, the most likely to have a gap for the escape of the waters. It reminded me of some parts of Usukuma, on Lake Victoria. We explored the mouths of the Ruanda, Kasenga, Ruwye-ya, Rutuku, and Kahanda rivers, and then from Mirembwe Cape sailed for the Lukuga — ^the river that formed now the most interesting object of our exploration.
On the evening of 15th July we made the acquaint- ance of Kawe-Niangeh, the chief of the district on the south bank of the Lukuga Creek near the mouth. He remembered Cameron distinctly, described his person and dress, and informed me that he had accompanied him to the reeds which he said blocked the head of the creek. At the time of his visit, he said — pointing at the same time to a long line of breakers which marked three-fourths of the broad entrance from the lake to the creek — there were two spits of sand running from either side of the mouth, and there was a small fishing settlement on the one which projected from our side. As they were now covered up, he entertained a sus- picion that Cameron had dropped some powerful medi- cine, which had brought on this destruction ! If one white man had brought so miich mischief, what might not two white men do ? " Why," said he, "the whole
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LtUcugs.
AN INFLUENT OR AN EFFLUENTS 45
country will be inundated, and nothing will be left i876. except the tops of the great mountains !" L«knl!.
We laughed at this, and, eventually joking him out of these ideas, succeeded in obtaining his guidance to explore the creek, and in eliciting the following items, which I jotted down in my journal the same evening: —
*'Jviy 15. — Opinion at the month of the Lnknga is mnch diTided respecting this riyer, or creek, or inlet, or whatever it may be. The information, when compared with Cameron*s statement, is altogether incomprehensible. The old men and chiefs say that formerly the Lnwegeri met the Lnknga, and that the meeting of the waters formed the lake. The resnlt of this marriage of the Lnknga from the west, and the Lnwegeri from the east, is the Tanganika, and a cordial understanding between the waters has been kept np until lately, when it appears that the Lnknga has b^nn to be restive and wayward, for it sometimes flows west, and sometimes east ; or, in other words, the Lnknga during the rainy season flows into the Tanganika, bearing with it an immense amount of water, grass, wood, and other matter, but during the dry season, when the south-east monsoon prevails, the Lnknga is borne west, lifting its head clear of the dry ground and mud-banks, and flows down to the Kamalondo, near Ealumbi's country, under the name of Buindi or Luindi. Until this rainy season, or say March of this year, 1876, there stood a low bank of earth or mud, several hundred yards long, between the Luindi and Lnknga, but this year's rain- £el]1 has united the two rivers, the Lnknga flowing over this by Miketo's country into Bua. Kamalondo is a river, and not a lake, being another name for the Lnalaba.
*'When Cameron was here in 1874, there was a spit of dry sand lined with grass or cane, projecting from the south side, and a similar one from the north side, the two being separated by a nai-row channel, but to-day both spits are covered with a line of wild breakers. The spot where Cameron camped is no longer tenable, but is exposed to the billows of the Tanganika, which at this season are driven in by the south-east monsoon.
" Take it any way you please, such conflict of opinions among people who ought to know what an outlet or an outflowing river is— many of them having seen the Luapula flow out from Bemba lake, others having seen the Lnalaba plunge down from Mweru lake— makes it clear that there is either a crisis approaching in nature or that it has lately taken place, or is occurring— one cannot say which until the Lukuga is explored, and this work I propose to begin to-morrow."
Cameron says, on p. 304, in vol. i. of his * Across
Africa * : —
" Its entrance was more than a mile across, but closed by a grass-grottm tandbank with the exception of a channel 300 or 400 yards wide, and acrou the channel there is a sill where the surf breaks heavily at times, although there is more than a fathom of water at its most shallow pari"
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46 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. An inflowing river meeting the billows of the July 16. Tanganika might be supposed to form a " surf/' or a sandy sill, it being only natural that there should be a conflict between the opposing forces. To this struggle then must be attributed the formation of the *^sill of sand** which Cameron said ran across the channel.
On the 16th we sailed up the creek. The annexed map of this interesting locality will give its width and soundings, and serve to illustrate what remains to be described.
The mouth of the Lukuga, which was about 2500 yards wide, narrowed after a mile to 800 yards, and after another mile to 400 or 500 yards. Upon rounding the point of land on which Mkampemba stands, and where there is a considerable tract under tillage, I observed that the water changed its colour to a reddish brown, owing to the ferruginous conglomerate of which the low bluffs on either side are composed. This was also a proof to me that there was no outflowiug river here. Clear water outflowing from tbe Tanganika, only two miles from the lake, ought never to be so deeply dis- coloured.
As we proceeded on, the chief told us to stop, and threw a stick into the water, asking us to note how, despite the ripple and wind i'rom lakeward, the stick and the water-bubbles persisted in struggling against them towards the lake. His face was triumphant as he thought he had completely proved one part of his statement, that water came into the lake. It only re- mained now, as he thought, to prove that water flowed out towards the west.
Wherever there were indentations in the bluffs that banked it in, or a dip in the low grass-covered del)ris l)eneath, a growth of Matete or water-cane and papyrus filled up these bits of still water, but mid-channel was
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Harper fc Brothers Kev/York.
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AMONG THE PAFTEU8. 47
clear and maintained a breadth of open white water i876. ranging from 90 to 450 yards. ["J^^J^
Within an hour we arrived at the extremity of the open water, which had gradually been narrowed in width, by the increasing abundance of papyrus, from 250 yards to 40 yards. We ceased rowing, and gently glided up to the barrier of papyrus, which had now completely closed up the creek from bank to bank, like a luxuriant field of tall Indian com. We sounded at the base of these reeds along a breadth of 40 yards, and obtained from 7 to 11 feet of water ! With a portable level I attempted to ascertain a current; the level indicated none ! Into a little pool, com- pletely sheltered by the broadside of the boat, we threw a chip or two, and some sticks. In five minutes the chips had moved towards the reeds about a foot! We then crushed our way through about twenty yards of the papyrus, and came to impassable mud-banks, black as pitch, and seething with animal life. Returning to the boat, I asked four men to stand close together, and, mounting their shoulders with an oar for support, I endeavoured with a glass to obtain a general view. I saw a broad belt some 250 or 300 yards wide of a papyrus-grown depression, lying east and west between gently sloping banks, thinly covered with scrubby acacia. Here and there were pools of open water, and beyond were a few trees growing, as it seemed to me, right in the bed. I caused some of my men to attempt to cross from one bank to the other, but the muddy ooze was not suflSciently firm to bear the weight of a man.
I then cut a disc of wood a foot in diameter, drove a nail in, and folded cotton under its head. I then rove a cord 5 feet in length through this, suspending to one end an earthenware pot, with which I tried an ex- periment. Along the hedge of papyrus I measured 1000
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Lnkuga.
48 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. feet with a tape line, both ends of the track marked by T°v«l! ^ hroad riband of sheeting tied to a papyrus reed. Then, proceeding to the eastern or lake end of the track, I dropped the earthenware pot, which, after filling, sank and drew the wooden disc level with the water. I noted the chronometer instantly, while the boat was rowed away from the scene. The wind from the lake blew strong at the time.
The board floated from lakeward towards the pa- pyrus 822 feet in one hour and forty seconds.
In the afternoon, wind calm and water tranquil, the disc floated in the opposite direction, or towards the lake, 159 feet in nineteen minutes and thirty seconds, which is at the rate of about 600 feet in the hour.
This was of itself conclusive proof that there was no current at this date (July 16, 1876). Still I was curious to see the river flowing out. The next day, therefore, accompanied by the chief and fifteen men of the Expedition, we started overland along the banks of this rush- and mud-choked depression for three or four miles. The trend of the several streams we passed was from north-west to south-east — that is, towards the lake. At Elwani village we came to the road from Monyi's, which is used by people proceeding to Unguvwa, Luwelezi, or Marungu on the other side of the Lukuga. Two men from the village accompanied us to the Lukuga ford. When we reached the foot of the hill, we first came to the dry bed of the Kibamba. In the rainy season this stream drains the eastern slopes of the Ky- yanja ridge with a south-east trend. The grass stalks, still lying down from the force of the water, lay with their tops pointing lakeward.
From the dry mud-bed of the Kibamba to the cane- grass-choked bed of Lukuga was but a step. During the wet season the Kibamba evidently overflowed broadly, and made its way among the matete of the Lukuga.
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THE ^^MITWANZI" OB BEED7 BARRIER. 49
We tramped on along a path leading over prostrate i876. reeds and cane, and came at length to where the ground ^^^J ^^' began to be moist. The reeds on either side of it rose to the height of 10 or 12 feet, their tops interlacing, and the stalks, therefore, forming the sides of a narrow tminel. The path sank here and there into ditcli-like hollows tilled with cool water from 9 inches to 3 feet deep, with transverse dykes of mud raised above it at intervals.
Finally, after proceeding some two hundred yards, we came to the centre of this reed-covered depression — called by the natives ** Mitwanzi '* — and here the chief, trampling a wider space among the reeds, pointed out in triumph water indisputably flowing westward I
The water felt cold, but it was only 68"^ Fahr. or 7^ cooler than the Lukuga. I crossed over to the opposite or southern bank, on the shoulders of two of my men. The bed was uneven; sometimes the men rose until the water was barely over their ankles, then again they sank to their hips. The trees I had noticed from the open creek stood on a point projecting from the southern bank across the Mitwanzi, but they were now dead, as the former dry tract had become quaggy. The name Lukuga clings to the bed until a few miles west of Miketo's, when it becomes known as the Luindi, Ruindi, or Luimbi.
The Mitwanzi is still daily traversed without trouble oy men, women, and children.
We travelled another three miles along the Mitwanzi, until we came to the southern end of the Ki-yanja ridge, for it is through the gap between this and the Kihunga ridge, which terminates on the south bank, that the Lukuga flows toward the west. Even here it was but a trivial stream, oozing and trickling through a cane-grass grove.
The most interesting object here was the rounded VOL. n. — 4
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Lttkaga.
50 TEROUOE THE DAHK CONTINENT.
1876. eud of the Ki-yanja ridge, sloping at an angle of 30®. I «k»ll! ^® *^® highest point is probably between 600 and 1000 feet, there has been some agency at work to wear down this gap through the ferruginous conglomerate and soft sandstone — and some agency stronger than this trivial stream smothered in reeds, for it has no force or power.
We got back to Lumba Creek, where we had left our boat and canoe, late at night. The next day was devoted to sounding the creek from the Mitwanzi to the outer bar.
The next morning I took a trip to the top of the conical hill behind Mkampembn, a village of Kawe- Niangeh, to lay out and take bearings.
I am of the opinion, after taking all things into consideration, that Kahangwa Cape was, at a remote period, connected with Kungw^ Cape on the east coast — that the Lukuga was the affluent of the lake as it stood then, that the lake was at that period at a much higher altitude than it is at present, that the northern half of the lake is of a later formation, and that, owing to the subsideiice of that portion, and the collapsing of the barrier or the Kahangwa Cape and Kungw^ Cape ridge, the waters south emptied into that of the deep gulf north, and left the channel of the Lukuga to be employed as the bed of the affluents Kibamba and Lumba, or the eastern slope of the Ki-yanja ridge, to feed the lake. But now that the extension of the pro- found bed — created by some great earthquake, which fractured and disparted the plateau of Uhha, Urundi, Ubembe, Goma, &c. — is on the eve of being filled up, the ancient affluent is about to resume its old duties of conveying the surplus waters of the Tanganika down into the valley of the Livingstone, and thence, along its majestic winding course, to the Atlantic Ocean.
I say this after having circumnavigated the lake and examined it most thoroughly. Underground
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THE TANQANIKA AND ITS DESTINY. 51
caverns are myths, the fables of Wangwana and i87«. superstitious natives. The great deep lengthy canon ^^J^^' occupied by the fathomless lake is not closed iu by rocks of such a nature as to admit of the theory of underground passages. It is rimmed by mountains and hills — the least altitude is 600 feet, the highest 4000 feet, above the lake. But to those seeking an elucidation of the fact that an enormous fresh-water lake is without an outflowing river, are presented as rational solutions the stream-worn gap in the con- glomerate of the ridges Kihunga and Kiyanja, the wave-washed rocks and boulders of Mpembw^ and all along the eastern coast down to Urungu, the bare headlands of Tembw^, and the naked steeps and cliffs of Kungw^ and Karinzi. It is an undeniable fact that if the evaporation from a body of water be greater than the supply, that water must necessarily become saline from the particles washed into it from salt-beds and salinas. It is also as undeniable that, if the supply to a body of water be greater than its evaporation, the quantity of the water must be in- creased until the receptacle — whether pool, pond, or lake — overflows and obtains an outlet.
In the instance of the Tanganika we have a fresh- water lake, which — according to the evidence of native Arabs and the observation of several tra- vellers—is steadily rising. We have also seen in the Lukuga the first symptoms of that overflowing which must come. At present there are only a few inches of mud-banks and a frail barrier of papyrus and reeds to interpose between the waters of the lake and its destiny, which it is now, year by year, steadily approaching. When the Tanganika has risen 3 feet higher, there will be no surf at the mouth of the Lukuga, no sill of sand, no oozing mud-banks, no rush- covered old river-course, but the accumulated waters
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52
THROUGH THE DABK CONTINENT.
1876. July 21.
Kaseng^
of over a hundred rivers will sweep through the ancient gap with the force of a cataclysm bearing away on its flood all the deposits of organic debris at present in the Lukuga Creek, down the steep incline to swell the tribute due to the mighty Livingstone.
On the 21st July we sailed from the mouth of the future outlet Lukuga, by Cape Kahangwa, to the Arab crossing-place near Kaseng^ Island.
The Waguha, along whose country we had voyaged south since leaving Tembwe, are an unusually ceremo-
DBUJW& AND UGUUA HBAD-DBKSSb
UGUHA HEAD-DRESS.
riious people. They are the first specimens of those nations among whom we are destined to travel in our exploration of the western regions.
The art of the coiffeur is better known here than in any portion of Africa east of Lake Tanganika. The ^* water- fall " and ** back-hair " styles are superb, and the con- structions are fastened with carved wooden or iron pins. Full dress includes a semicircle of finely plaited hair over the forehead painted red, ears well ochred, the rest of the hair drawn up taut at the back of the head, over- laid and secured by a cross-shaped flat board, or with a skeleton crown of iron ; the head is then covered with
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SALUTATIONS IN UGUIIA.
53
a neatly tasselled and plaited grass cloth, like a lady's i876. breakfast-cap, to protect it from dust. In order to -^^^y^^- protect such an elaborate construction from being dis- ^^^
A WOAIAN OF UGUHA.
UIITEYA HEAD-DRESS.
ordered, they carry a small head-rest of wood stuck in
the girdle.
Their mode of salutation is as follows : —
A man appears before a party seated : he bends,
takes up a handful of earth or sand with his right
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Kaseng^.
54 TEROUQH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. hand, and throws a Htde into his left — the left hand 1™!!* ^^^ ^^^ ®^^^ ^^ earth over the right elbow and the right side of the stomach, while the right hand performs the same operation for the left parts of the body, the mouth meanwhile uttering rapidly words of saluta- tion. To his inferiors, however, the new-comer slaps his hand several times, and after each slap lightly taps the region of his heart.
Kaseng^ Island is a small island with a grassy cone rising from its centre. It is well-cultivated, and grows papaws, pomegranates, lemons, and sweet limes, having been favoured for a long period by Arabs, when their intercourse with the western regions was but beginning.
Between the lately severed promontory of Katenga, in Goma, which is now a large island, and Mtowa, the southern end of the bay, there is quite a cluster of islets, of which the largest are Kirindi, Kivizi, and Kavala.
When we have passed the northern point of Katenga Island we behold the Goma mountains in an apparently unbroken range of vast height and excessive steep- ness, and lengths of steep and cliffy slope. But as we sail on to the northward, we observe that from Katenga we saw only the profile or the shoulders of great lofty spurs. Behind almost all of these ate beautiful secluded inlets and bays, overshadowed by black-bearded moun- tains, which give birth to myriads of clear crystal streams. Deep chasms in their huge fronts are filled with forests of enormous trees, out of which the famous Goma canoes are cut. Through every gap in the range roars and tumbles a clear cold stream, and piled up behind arc the loftiest alps of Goma. The eye cannot fail to be struck with the contrast between the serene blue of the sky, the gloom of the chasm, and the dark tops of the tree-crested ranges. The margins of these calm havens are lined with green water-cane and eschi- nomenae, to which hundreds of yellow-breasted birds
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"" MOUNTAINS DISSOLVING IN TEABSr 55
have suspended their nests, where the industrious little i876. creatures may be seen in flocks together, clinging belly ^^^ ^^* upward, or flying up and down, ever chirping their mu^ wheedling, persuasive song. On a firm bough extended over the wave sits the glossy and sleek diver, con- tented, sated with his finny prey, or, perched upon the tall branch of some towering sycamore or teak, may be seen the white-collared fish-eagle, uttering at in- tervals his weird shrill call to his mate — a despairing, wailing cry. Presently, from some distant tree, at a commanding height, is heard the response, in the same doleful strain.
But i'rom Katenga, as far as the Bald Mount, near Mugolwe, the crests of the ridges are tawny and tree- less. From Tanga to Mdanga Cape, gaps and chasms, inlets and bays, like those above described are nume- rous, and between Kabogo River and Missossi Mount there is a bay with five separate streams, descending from heights of 2000 feet in long silvery threads to the lake. The mountains seem to be dissolving in tears, for through every ravine or cleft or gap, chasm or rift, streams roll with impetuous course to the lake. Wherever foothold is obtained on a square-browed hill, terrace, or slope, cultivated fields and villages are seen, while on either side of them the cliffs drop sheer to profound depths.
The topmost height of Mount Missossi is about 3000 feet above the lake. As the lake is very wide between Goma and Ujiji— about forty miles — the waves rise very suddenly and drive in long billowy ridges against the massive and firm base of the mount, and when the south-easters prevail, the gale has command of sixty miles of clear water from Kabogo Cape. Navi- gation in canoes, while the wind is rising, is very dangerous.
We left Kabogo River's safe haven about 7 p.m..
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56 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
and at nine were pulling by Missossi Mount, exposed to a rising gale of great power about half a mile oflF a lee shore. To avoid being swept on the rocks, which were all afoam, we had to row direct eastward, and to handle both boat and canoe very delicately to avoid foundering. For two hours we laboured hard to get a mile to wind- ward and then, hoisting sail, we flew northward, just grazing the dreadful rocks of Mdanga Cape.
Nature, as already seen, has been in most frantic moods along the western coast of the Tanganika, but in Goma, where she has been most wanton, she has veiled herself with a graceful luxuriance of vegetation. Where the mountains are steepest and highest, and where their springs have channelled deepest, there the pillared mvule and meofu flourish most and attain their greatest height, and in loving fellowship they spread themselves up opposing slopes and follow the course of the stream in broad belts on either side down to the edge of the lake. Underneath their umbrageous foliage grows a tropical density of bush and plant, meshed and tangled, and of such variety that to class or specify them would require the labour and lifetime of an accomplished botanist.
As we look towards the lofty heights of Northern Goma we observe that they have a grassy pastoral aspect. We turn our eyes south to catch a farewell glimpse of those refreshing views- which we had ad- mired, and wo see that distance has already trans- formed them into a long blue hazy outline.
We sailed all day within a stone's-throw of the shore of Goma, and in the evening put in at Kaganza, just north of Kiringi Point.
On the 25th, on leaving Kaganza, we bade farewell to Goma, whose bare majestic front, as we continued north, was terminated by the low rounded hills of Kavunweh, and then, steering north-east, we skirted a
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THE SPIRIT ISLAND.
57
low grassy land whose highest ridge was only 200 feet above the lake. This was once the isthmus which con- nected the promontory of Ubwari and Karamba with the mainland. It is seven miles across to the gulf which sepa- rates Ubwari promontory from Ubembe and Usansi. Burton describes Ubwari thus : —
" It is the only island near the centre of the Tanganika, a long narrow lump of rock, twenty to twenty-five geographical miles long, by four or five of extreme breadth."
Livingstone calls it in his *Last Journals' the islet
1876. • July 26.
Ubwari.
THE SPIBIT IbLAND.
Mozima, and in ' How I Found Livingstone ' I called it the island Muzimu.
The end of the isthmus is distinguished by two or three palms, which served us as a landmark when we had voyaged round into the gulf of the western side. It is also indented with two or three deep bays.
Near Karamba Cape, south latitude 4° 29', the land again rises into a ridge about 1500 feet above the lake, and runs north from the southern cape to Panza Point,
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58 TEROUQH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. a distance of twenty-seven miles. Some very fine moun- Juijr 27. ^,^jj^ scenes are presented here also, but after stupendous Goraa they appear almost tame and commonplace.
Near the little round island of Muzimu, or the Spirit, we made a very comfortable camp near a fine gravel beach. The photograph of the Spirit Island given on page 57 suffices for description.
The Wabwari are by no means a handsome race : nor indeed are the Wavirn, Wagoma, or Waberabe (canni- bals) ; but they aie all industrious tribes, and the Wa- bwari, though somewhat ready to take offence, are very much liked by all. They cultivate an enormous quantity of cassava, or manioc, and at this season the flat rocks were strewn with the sliced root. Dried whitebait is another article of commerce, and bags of millet are exchanged with the Warundi on the other side for palm-oil and butter, and with the Wajiji for cloth and beads.
On the 27th we rounded Panza Point, and skirted the much-indented western side of Ubwari, until we reached the extreme southern reach of Burton Gulf.* At even- ing we camped in a tiny creek, near a grassy ridge, undisturbed. In the morning I ascended the ridge, and took bearings of Missossi Mount, Kiringi Cape, Karamba Cape, and by aid of the palms on the isthmus was able to identify tlie position. We rested until noon, and obtained south latitude 4^ 22'. As Panza Point, tho north en^l of Ubwari, is in south latitude 4P 2', the length of Burton Gulf is twenty miles, by from five to seven miles in width.
Then coasting along the south end of Burton Gulf, we came to Masansi, which begins on the west side, and near each large village lowered our sail and en- quired the names of the various rivers, villages, points,
* So named after Captain Bichard Francis Burton, the commander of the Burton and Speke Expedition^ which first discovered Lake Tanganika.
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EXCITABLE AB0BI0JNE8. 59
and countries. On coming near a viHage on tha west i876. bank of the Kasansagara river, we were forewarned «.J^' of a rude reception. Approaching nearer, we were warned away by the Wabembe, who are most inimical to strangers. Wishing to test how far this hostile spirit would proceed, we continued to advance upon the shore. From wild gesture, such as striking the ground with their spears, beating the water, and frantic hopping up and down, they took to throwing stones of such large size as might well be termed dangerous missiles. Motioning a lialt, we calmly sur- veyed the natives, watched the rocks fly through the air, and making deep pits in the water, as though we were simply looking on at an entertainment specially got up for our amusement Not a word, gesture, or movement on our part indicated either resentment or pleasure, until the natives ceased their furious demon- strations. Para was then told to inform them that we would have nothing to say to such wild people, who at sight of strangers showed such foolish fury.
We turned away without another word, resumed our journey, and in an hour were abreast of Kiunyu, the village of the chief Mahonga. We spoke to them : they mocked us. We asked them if they would sell us some grain, but they replied that they were not our slaves, and that they had not sowed the land with grain to sell it to us. We pulled away from them without another word. The silly people cried out that we were running away, and at once launched about a dozen canoes and followed us. Encouraged by the infuriates and mockers on the shore, as also by our pacific be- haviour, they became excited to a dangerous state, and gesticulated with their arrows and spears. Owing to the ferocious spirit of the people, we had to seek a camp among the reeds and papyrus in the delta of the Mtambara river, where, though troubled with mosqui-
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60 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. toes, we slept undisturbed by the insensate ferocity of Wn!J^ the Wabembe cannibals.
On the 28th we skirted the low land which lies at the foot of the western mountains, and by noon had arrived at the little cove in Masansi, near the Rubumba or the Luvumba river, at which Livingstone and I terminated our exploration of the northern shores of Lake Tanganika in 1871. I had thus circumnavigated Lake Tanganika from Ujiji up the eastern coast, along the northern head, and down the western coast as far as Rubumba river in 1871, and in June-July 1876 had sailed south from Ujiji along the eastern coast to the extreme south end of the lake, round each inlet of the south, and up the western coast to Panza Point, in Ubwari, round the shores of Burton Gulf, and to Rubumba river. The north end of the lake was located by Livingstone in south latitude 3° 18'; the extreme south end I discovered to be in south latitude 8° 47', which gives it a length of 329 geographical miles. Its breadth varies from ten to forty-five miles, averaging about twenty-eight miles, and its superficial area covers a space of 9240 square miles.
On the 29th we crossed over from our haven near Muzimu Island, on the east side of Ubwari, to Kioga, in Urundi, where we were welcomed by our old friend Kinoza, the chief.
In mid-lake, I sounded, using a 3|-lb. sounding-lead with 1280 feet of cord, and found no bottom. I de- voted an hour to this work, and tried a second time a mile nearer the Urundi coast, with the same results — no bottom. The strain at such a great depth on the whip-cord was enormous, but we met with no accident.
On the 31st we arrived at Ujiji, after an absence of fifty-one days, during which time we had sailed without disaster or illness a distance of over 810 miles. The entire coast line of the Tano^anika is about 930 miles
*qv
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WELCOMED TO CAMP, 61
CHAPTER Iir.
Back in camp — An epidemic of small-pox — Panic of desertion— Ealnln's disloyally — Liyingstone's lenience — Imaginary terrors— Hoirdressing ad absurdum — Bnanga's opinion of white men — A Tillage sketch — The villagers of IJhombo — In puris naiurafibus — A tonch of hnman' natnre — On liTingstone's traces — What is there in feathers? — The Manyema: their life and manners — Our ass astonishes the natives — Bloodless wars — Nicknames — A tribe with beards bnt no wives — The confluence of the Luama and the Livingstone.
The sky was of a stainless blue, and the slumbering i876. lake faithfully reflected its exquisite tint, for not a ^fj.^^ breath of wind was astir to vex its surface. With groves of palms and the evergreen fig-trees on either hand, and before us a fringe of tall cane-grass along the shores all juicy with verdure, the square tembes of Ugoy, and the conical cotes of Kaweld, embowered by banana and plantain, we emerged into the bay of Djiji from the channel of Bangw^.
The cheery view of the port lent strength to our arms. An animating boat-song was struck up, the sounds of which, carried far on the shore, announced that a proud, joyous crew was returning homeward.
Long-horned cattle are being driven to the water to drink ; asses are galloping about, braying furiously ; goats and sheep and dogs are wandering in the market-place — many familiar scenes recur to us as we press forward to the shore.
Our Wangwana hurry to the beach to welcome us. The usual congratulations follow — hand-shakings, smiles, and glad expressions. Frank, however, is pale
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62 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. and sickly ; a muffler is round his neck, and he
Aognrt. ^gg^^g 2k greatcoat. He looks very different from the
^ strong, hearty man to whom I gave tlie charge of
the camp during my absence. In a few words he
informs me of his sufferings from the fever of Ujiji.
** I am so glad you have come, sir. I was beginning to feel very depressed. I have been down several times with severe attacks of the horrible fever. Yester- day is the first time I got up after seven days' weary illness, and people are dying round me so fast that I was beginning to think I must soon die too. Now I am all right, and shall soon get strong again."
The news, when told to me in detail, was grievous. Five of our Wangwana were dead from small-pox; six others were seriously ill from the same cause. Among the Arab slaves, neither inoculated nor vac- cinated, the mortality had been excessive from this fearful pest.
At Rosako, the second camp from Bagamoyo, I had foreseen some such event as this, and had vaccinated, as I had thought, all hands ; but it transpired, on in- quiry now, that there were several who had not re- sponded to the call, through some silly prejudice against it. Five of those unvaccinated were dead, and five were ill, as also was one who had received the vaccine. When I examined the medicine-chest, I found the tubes broken and the lymph dried up.
The Arabs were dismayed at the pest and its dreadful havoc among their families and slaves. Every house was full of mourning and woe. There were no more agree- able visits and social converse ; each kept himself in strict seclusion, fearful of being stricken with it. Khamis the Baluch was dead, his house was closed, and his friends were sorrowing. Mohammed bin Gharib had lost two children ; Muini Kheri was lamenting the deaths of three children. The mortality was increasing: it
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A PANIC OF DESERTION. 63
was now from fifty to seventy-five daily among a isro. population of about three thousand. Bitter were the ^°?!?^^*' complainings against the hot season and close atmo- sphere, and fervent the prayers for rain !
Frank had been assiduous in his assistance to our friends. He had elevated himself in their opinion by his devotion and sympathy, until sickness had laid its heavy hand on him. The Wangwana were now his sincere admirers, and the chiefs were his friends. Formerly, while ignorant of the language, he and they were, perhaps of neces?sity, mutually distant ; they now fraternized warmly.
Our messengers had not returned with our letters from Unyanyemb^, but, to escape the eflfects of the epidemic, it was necessary to move and resume our journey westward. The Wangwana were therefore ordered to prepare, and my last letters were written ; but, though I hoped to be ready on the 17th to strike camp, I was attacked by a serious fever. This delayed me until the evening of the 25th.
When, on the morning of the 25th August, the drum and bugle announced that our travels were to be resumed, I had cause to congratulate myself that I had foreseen that many desertions would take place, and that I was prepared in a measure for it by having discarded many superfluities. But I was not prepared to hear that thirty-eight men had deserted. Thirty-eight out of 170 was a serious reduction of stren^h. I was also told by the chiefs of the Expedi- tion, who were almost beside themselves with fear, that this wholesale desertion threatened an entire and com- plete dissolution of our force, that many more would desert en route to Kabogo, as the people were de- moralized by the prospect of being eaten by Manyema cannibals. As neither Frank nor I relished the idea of being compelled to return to Zanzibar before we had
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1876. obtained
Aairast 25. .^^ «,»,,,
^ many '^^' of these,
as
64 fHBOUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
a view of the Lualaba, I mustered as would answer to their names; and out selecting such as appeared unstable and
flighty, I secured thirty-two, and surrounded our house
with guards.
After preparing the canoes and getting the boat ready,
those who did not bear a good character for firmness and
fidelity were conducted under guard to the transport
'^^
M6EHAZY HAVEN AND CAMP, AT THE MOUTH OF M SEHAZT BIVEB.
canoes* the firm and faithful, and those believed to be so, were permitted to march on land with myself to- wards Kabogo Cape, or M'sehazy Creek, whence the crossing of the Tanganika was to be effected. Out of the 132 men, of whom the Expedition now consisted, only thirty were entrusted with guns, as my faith in the stability of the Wangwana was utterly destroyed, despite their protestations to the contrary. I could
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KALULU BUNS AWAY. 65
afford to lose weak, fearful, and unworthy men ; but I i876. could not afford to lose one gun. Though we had such ^"^^""^ a show of strength left, I was only too conscious that ^^ ** there were barely forty reliable and effective in a crisis, or in the presence of danger; the rest were merely useful as bearers of burdens, or porters.
When we resumed our journey the second day from Ukaranga, three more were missing, which swelled the number of desertions to forty-one, and reduced our force to 129. After we had crossed the Tanganika and arrived in XJguha, two more disappeared, one of whom was young Kalulu, whom I had taken to Jtlngland and the United States, and whom I had placed i»i an English school for eighteen months.
Induced to do so by the hope that I should secure their attachment to the cause of the Expedition, I had pur- chased from Sultan Bin Kassim six bales of cloth at an enormous price, £350, and had distributed them all among the people gratuitously. This wholesale deser- tion at the very period when their services were about to be most needed was my reward ! The desertion and faith- less conduct of Kalulu did not, as may be imagined, augment my hopes, or increase my faith in the fidelity of my people. But it determined me to recover some of the deserters. Francis Pocock and the detective of the Expedition, the ever faithful and gallant Kacheche, were therefore sent back with a squad to Ujiji, with instructions how to act ; and one night Kacheche pounced upon six fellows, who, after a hard and tough resistance, were secured ; and after his return to Uguha with these he successfully recovered the runaway Kalulu on Kasengd Island. These seven, along with a few others arrested in the act of desertion, received merited punishments, which put an end to misconduct and faithlessness, and prevented the wreck
of the Expedition. VOL. n. — 5
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66 THROUGH THE DABK CONTINENT.
1876. It must not be supposed that I was more unfortunate September. ^^^ other travellers ; for to the faithlessness of his ^ ** people may be attributed principally the long wander- ings of poor Livingstone. Cameron also lost a great number at Unyanyembe, as well as at Ujiji. Experience had taught me on my first journey to Central Africa that Wangwana would desert at every opportunity, especially in the vicinity of the Arab depots. It was to lessen these opportunities for desertion that I had left the Unyanyembe road, and struck through Ituru and Iramba ; and though my losses in men were great from famine, the ferocity of the natives, and sickness, they did not amount to half of what they certainly would have been had I touched at Unyanyembe. By adopting this route, despite the calamities that we were subjected to for a short season, I had gained time, and opened new countries, hitherto unexplored.
Desertion had also been checked by voyaging Lake Victoria, instead of pursuing our journey by land, and troubles with Rwoma and the king of Usui had also been avoided. But when we received a check at the Muta Nzige, it became necessary to visit Ujiji, and the long- sought-for opportunity to desert was thus presented to the disaffected, and those who had enlisted only for the &ake of the advance-money given to them at Zanzibar. Among these cunning ones was Msenna, the terror of Zanzibar and the coast. He was renowned as a mur- derer, robber, and ruflSan when he took service with me. This man was among the deserters at Ujiji.
Unless the traveller in Africa exerts himself to keep his force intact, he cannot hope to perform satisfactory service. If he relaxes his watchfulness, it is instantly taken advantage of by the weak-minded and the indo- lent. Livingstone lost at least six years of time, and finally his life, by permitting his people to desert. If a follower left his service, he even permitted him to
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FABULOUS TERRORS. 67
remain in the same village with him, without attempting i876. to reclaim him, or to compel that service which he had ^*p**^™**«'- bound himself to render at Zanzibar. The consequence ^ *" of this excessive mildness was that he was left at last with only seven men, out of nearly seventy. His noble character has won from us a tribute of affection and esteem, but it has had no lasting good effect on the African. At the same time over-severity is as bad as over-gentleness in dealing with these men. What is required is pure, simple justice between man and man.
The general infidelity and instability of the Wa- ngwana arises, in great part, from their weak minds becoming a prey to terror of imaginary dangers. Thus, the Johanna men deserted Livingstone because they heard the terrible Mafitt^ were in the way ; my run- aways of Ujiji fled from the danger of being eaten by the Manyema.
The slaves of Sungoro, the coast trader at Kagehyi, Usukuma, informed my people that Lake Victoria spread as far as the Salt Sea, that it had no end, and that the people on its shores loved the flesh of man better than that of goats. This foolish report made it a most difficult matter to man the exploring boat, and over a hundred swore by Allah that they knew nothing of rowing.
A similar scene took place when about to circum- navigate the Tanganika, for the Arab slaves had spread such reports of Muzimus, hobgoblins, fiery meteors, terrible spirits, such as Kabogo, Katavi, Kateyd, and WanpemW, that the teeth of Wanyamwezi and Wa- ngwana chattered with fright. But no reports exercised such a terrible effect on their weak minds as the report of the Manyema cannibals, none were so greedily listened to, none more readily believed.
The path which traders and their caravans follow
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68 TEROUQB THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. to Manyema begins at Mtowa, in Uguha, and, continu- eptember. j^^ gQuth a few miles over a series of hills, descends into the plain of the Riigumba river about half-way between the Lukuga river and the traders' crossing-place.
The conduct of the first natives to whom we were introduced pleased us all. They showed themselves in a very amiable light, sold their corn cheaply and with- out fuss, behaved themselves decently and with pro- priety, though their principal men entertaining very strange ideas of the white men, carefully concealed themselves from view, and refused to be tempted to expose themselves within view or hearing of us.
Their doubts of our character were reported to us by a friendly young Arab as follows : " Kassanga, chief of Ruanda, says, * How can the white men be good when they come for no trade, whose feet one never sees, who always go covered from head to foot with clothes? Do not tell me they are good and friendly. There is some- thing very mysterious about them; perhaps wicked. Probably they are magicians ; at any rate, it is better to leave them alone, and to keep close until they are gone.* "
From Ruanda, where we halted only for a day, we began in earnest the journey to Manyema, thankful that the Tanganika was safely crossed, and that the Expedition had lost no more of its strength.
On the third day, after gradually ascending to a height of 800 feet above the lake, across a series of low hilly ridges and scantily wooded valleys, which abound with buffalo, we reached the crest of a range which divides the tributaries of the Lualaba from those of Lake Tanganika. This range also serves as a boundary between Uguha and Ubujwe, a country adjoining the former north-westerly. The western portion of Uguha, and south-eastern Ubujwe, is re- markable for its forests of fruit-trees, of which there
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EAIR-BRESSING AD ABSURDUM. 69
are several varieties, called the Masuku, Mbembu i876. (or wood-apple), Singwe (wild African damson), the ^''i^'''"||'''^" Matonga (or nux-vomica), custard-apple, &c. A large quantity of honey was also obtained. Indeed, an array might subsist for many weeks in this forest on the various luscious fruits it contains. Our people feasted on them, as also on the honey and buffalo meat, which I was fortunate in obtaining.
Our acquaintance with the Wabujwe commenced at Larabo, or Mulolwa's, situated at the confluence of the Rugumba with the Rubumba. In these people we first saw the mild, amiable, unsophisticated innocence of this part of Central Africa, and their behaviour was exactly
NATIVES OP UBUJWfc.
the reverse of the wild, ferocious, cannibalistic races the Arabs had described to us.
From our experience of them, the natives of Rua, Uguha, and Ubujwe appear to be the elite of the hair- dressed fashionables of Africa. Hair-dressing is indeed carried to an absurd perfection throughout all this region, and among the various styles I have seen, some are surpassing in taste and neatness, and almost pathetic from the carefulness with which poor wild nature has done its best to decorate itself.
The Waguha and Wabujwe, among other cha- racteristics, are very partial to the arts of sculpture and turning. They carve statues in wood, which they set up in their villages. Their house doors often
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70 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. exhibit carvings resembling the human face ; and the September. ^j.g^g in the forest between the two countries fre- quently present specimens of their ingenuity in this art. Some have also been seen to wear wooden medals, whereon a rough caricature of a man's features was represented. At every village in Ubujwe excellent wooden bowls and basins of a very light wood (Ru- biaceae), painted red, are offered for sale.
Between Kwaniwa's village, Lambo, and Kundi, we came to a hot stream issuing from a spring, buried amid a mass of spear-grass and dwarf papyrus. At the crossing the temperature was 106^ Fahr., about twenty yards above it was 115° Fahr. Those at Bath, in Eng- land, are from 1 17° to 120° Fahr. ; at Ursprung, Baden, 1 53^° Fahr. These hot springs at Kwaniwa's contain considemble iron in solution, judging from the ferru- ginous slime below and the ochreous tint which rests on the plants and grass.
Beyond Kundi our journey lay across chains of hills, of a -conical or rounded form, which enclosed many basins or valleys. While the Rugumba, or Ru-
bumba, flows north-westerly to the east of Kundi, as far as Kizambala on the Luama river, we were daily, sometimes hourly, fording or crossing the tribu- taries of the Luama.
Adjoining Ubujwe is Uhyeya, inhabited by a tribe who are decidedly a scale lower in hu- manity than their ingenious neighbours. What little merit A NATIVE OF UHYEYA. ^^^^Y posscss sccms to havc been derived from commerce with the Wabujwe'. The Wahyeya are also partial to ochre, black paints, and a composition of black mud, which
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THE BASIN OF UHOMBO, 71
they mould into the form of a plate, and attach tp the i876. back part of the head. Their upper teeth are filed. ^^^^^*^''* " out of regard to custom/' they say, and not from any taste for human flesh.
When questioned as to whether it was their custom to eat of the flesh of people slain in battle, they were positive in their denial, and protested great re- pugnance to such a diet, though they eat the flesh of all animals except that of dogs.
Simple and dirt-loving as these poor people were, they were admirable- for the readiness with which they supplied all our
wants, voluntarily offer- ^^^ ^^ ^„^ ^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ing themselves, moreover, (back view).
as guides to lead us to Uvinza, the next country we had to traverse.
Uvinza now seems to be nothing more than a name of a small district which occupies a small basin of some few miles square. At a former period it was very populous, as the many ruined villages we passed through proved. The slave-traders, when not manfully resisted, leave broad traces wherever they go.
A very long march from Kagongwe in Uvinza brought us to the pleasant basin of Uhombo, remark- able for its fertility, its groves of Guinea-palms, and its beauty. This basin is about six miles square, but within this space there is scarcely a two-acre plot of level ground to be seen. The whole forms a picture of hill- tops, slopes, valleys, hollows, and intersecting ridges in happy diversity. Myriads of cool, clear streams course
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October. Uhumbo.
72 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. through, in time united by the Lnbangi into a pretty- little river, flowing westerly to the Luama. It was the most delightful spot that we had seen. As the people were amiable, and disposed to trade, we had soon an abundance of palm-butter for cooking, sugar-cane, fine goats and fat chickens, sweet potatoes, beans, peas, nuts, and manioc, millet and other grain for flour, ripe bananas for dessert, plantain and palm wines for cheer, and an abundance of soft, cool, clear wate>r to drink I
Subsequently we had many such pleasant experience/^ ; but as it was the first, it deserves a more detailed description.
Travellers from Africa have often written about African villages, yet I am sure few of those at home have ever comprehended the reality. I now propose to lay it before them in this sketch of a village in the dis- trict of TJhombo. The village consists of a number of low, conical grass huts, ranged round a circular common, in the centre of which are three or four fig-trees kept for the double purpose of supplying shade to the com- munity, and bark-cloth to the chief. The doorways to the huts are very low, scarcely 30 inches high. The common fenced round by the grass huts shows plainly the ochreous colour of the soil, and it is so well trodden that not a grass blade thrives upon it.
On presenting myself in the common, I attracted out of doors the owners and ordinary inhabitants of each hut, until I found myself the centre of quite a promis- cuous population of naked men, women, children, and infants. Though I had appeared here for the purpose of studying the people of Uhombo, and making a treaty of friendship with the chief, the villagers seemed to think I had come merely to make a free exhibition of myself as some natural monstrosity.
I saw before me over a hundred beings of the most
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October. Uhombo.
MY PRIMITIVE BE0THER8 AND SISTERS. 73
degraded, unpresentable type it is possible to conceive, i876. and though I knew quite well that some thousands of " years ago the beginning of this wretched humanity and myself were one and the same, a sneaking disinclina- tion to believe it possessed me strongly, and I would even now willingly subscribe some small amount of silver money for him who could but assist me to con- trovert the discreditable fact.
But common-sense tells me not to take into undue consideration their squalor, their ugliness, or nakedness, but to gauge their true position among the human race by taking a view of the cultivated fields and gardens of Uhombo, and I am compelled to admit that these debased specimens of humanity only plant and sow such vege- tables and grain as I myself should cultivate were I compelled to provide for my own sustenance. I see, too, that their huts, though of grass, are almost as well made as the materials will permit, and indeed I have often slept in worse. Speak with them in their own dialect of the law of meum and tuum^ and it will soon appear that they are intelligent enough upon that point Moreover, the muscles, tissues, and fibres of their bodies, and all the organs of sight, hearing, smell, or motion, are as well developed as in us. Only in taste and judgment, based upon larger experience, in the power of expression, in morals and intellectual culture, are we superior.
I strive, therefore, to interest myself in my gross and rudely shaped brothers and sisters. Almost bursting into a laugh at the absurdity, I turn towards an individual whose age marks him out as one to whom respect is due, and say to him after the common manner of greeting : —
" My brother, sit you down by me on this mat, and let us be friendly and sociable ;" and as I say it I thrust into his wide open hand twenty cowries, the currency
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October Uhombo.
74 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. of the land. One look at his hand as he extended it made me think I could carve a better-looking hand out of a piece of rhinoceros hide.
While speaking I look at his face, which is like an ngly and extravagant mask, clumsily manufactured from some strange, dark brown coarse material. The lips proved the thickness of skin which nature had en- dowed him with, and by the obstinacy with which they refused to meet each other the form of the mouth was but ill-defined, though capacious and garnished with its full complement of well-preserved teeth.
His nose was so flat that I inquired in a perfectly in- nocent manner as to the reason for such a feature.
" Ah,** said he, with a sly laugh, ** it is the fault of my mother, who, when I was young, bound me too tight to her back.**
His hair had been compelled to obey the capricious fashion of his country, and was therefore worked up into furrows and ridges and central cones, bearing a curious resemblance to the formation of the land around Uhombo. I wonder if the art grew by perceiving nature's fashion and mould of his country ?
Descending from the face, which, crude, large-fea- tured, rough-hewn as it was, bore witness to the pos- session of much sly humour and a kindly disposition, my eyes fastened on his naked body. Through the ochreous daubs I detected strange freaks of pricking on it, circles and squares and crosses, and traced with wonder the many hard lines and puckers created by age, weather, ill-usage, and rude keeping.
His feet were monstrous abortions, with soles as hard as hoofs, and his legs as high up as the knees were plastered with successive strata of dirt ; his loin cover or the queer ** girding tackle ** need not be described. They were absolutely appalling to good taste, and the most ragged British beggar or Neapolitan lazzarone is
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October. Ubombo.
IN PUBIS NATURALIBU8. 75
sumptuously, nay, regally, clothed in comparison to this i876. ** king ** in Uhombo. -
If the old chief appeared so unprepossessing, how can I paint without offence my humbler brothers and sisters who stood round us ? As I looked at the array of faces, I could only comment to myself — ugly — uglier — ugliest. As I looked at their nude and filthy bodies, and the enormous dugs which hung down the bosoms of the women, and the general indecency of their nakedness, I ejaculated " Fearful ! ** as the sum total of what I might with propriety say, and what indeed is suflSciently descriptive.
And what shall I say of the hideous and queer appendages that they wear about their waists ; the tags of monkey-skin and bits of gorilla bone, goat horn, shells, strange tags to stranger tackle? and of the things around their necks— brain of mice, skin of viper, ** adders fork, and blind worm's sting**? And how strangely they smell, all these queer man-like creatures who stand regarding me ! Not silently : on the con- trary, there is a loud interchange of comments upon the white's appearance, a manifestation of broad interest to know whence I come, whither I am going, and what is my business. And no sooner are the questions asked than they are replied to by such as pretend to know. The replies were followed by long-drawn ejaculations of "Wa-a-a-antu!" (^^Menl") '^Eha-a, and these are men!"
Now imagine this ! While we whites are loftily dis- puting among ourselves as to whether the beings before us are human, here were these creatures actually express- ing strong doubts as to whether we whites are men !
A dead silence prevailed for a short time, during which all the females dropped their lower jaws far down, and then cried out again " Wa-a-a-a-a-antu! " ("Men!") The lower jaws indeed dropped so low
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76 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. that, when, in a posture of reflection, they put their hands up to their chins, it really looked as if they had done so to lift the jaws up to their proper place and to sustain them there. And in that position they pon- dered upon the fact that there were men ** white all over '* in this queer, queer world !
The open mouths gave one a chance to note the healthy state and ruby colour of the tongues, palates, and gums, and, above all, the admirable order and brilliant whiteness of each set of teeth.
** Great events from trivial causes spring " — and while I was trying to calculate how many Kubaba (measure of 2 lbs.) of millet-seed would be requisite to fill all these Dutch-oven mouths, and how many cowries would be required to pay for such a large quantity of millet, and wondering at the antics of the juveniles of the population, whose uncontainable, irrepressible wonder seemed to find its natural expression in hopping on one leg, thrusting their right thumbs into their mouths to repress the rising scream, and slapping the hinder side of the thighs to express or give emphasis to what was speechless — while thus engaged, and just thinking it was time to depart, it happened that one of the youthful innocents already described, more restless than his brothers, stumbled across a long heavy pole which was leaning insecurely against one of the trees. The pole fell, striking one of my men severely on the head. And all at once there went up from the women a genuine and unaffected cry of pity, and their faces expressed so lively a sense of tender sympathy with the wounded man that my heart, keener than my eyes, saw through the disguise of filth, nakedness, and ochre, the human heart beating for another's suffering, and I then recognized and hailed them as indeed my own poor and degraded sisters.
Under the new liorht which had dawned on me.
'o^
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HUMAN IN SPITE OF DIRT. 77
I reflected that I had done some wrong to my dusky istb, relatives, and that they might have been described ^*;^^*'^* less harshly, and introduced to the world with less disdain.
Before I quitted the village, they made me still more regret my former haughty feelings, for the chief and his subjects loaded my men with bounties of bananas, chickens, Indian corn, and malafu (palm-wine), and escorted me respectfully far beyond the precincts of the village and their fields, parting from me at last with the assurance that, should I ever happen to return by their country, they would endeavour to make my second visit to Uhombo much more agreeable than my first had been.
On the 5 th October our march from Uhombo brought us to the frontier village of Manyema, which is called Riba-Riba. It is noteworthy as the starting- point of another order of African architecture. The conical style of hut is exchanged for the square hut with more gradually sloping roof, wattled, and some- times neatly plastered with mud, especially those in Manyema. Here, too, the thin-bodied and long-limbed goat, to which we had been accustomed, gave place to the short-legged, large-bodied, dnd capacious-uddered variety of Manyema. The grey parrots with crimson tails here also first began to abound, and the hoarse growl of the fierce and shy " soko " (gorilla ?) was first heard.
From the day we cross the watershed that divides the affluents of the Tanganika from the head waters of the Luama, there is observed a gradual increase in the splendour of nature. By slow degrees she exhibits to us, as we journey westward, her rarest beauties, her wealth and all the profligacy of her vegetation. In the forests of Miketo and on the western slopes of the Goma mountains she scatters with liberal hand her luxuries
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78 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. of fruits, and along the banks of streams we see revealed the wild profusion of her bounties.
As we increase the distance from the Tanganika, we find the land disposed in graceful lines and curves: ridges heave up, separating valley from valley, hills lift their heads in the midst of the basins, and mountain- ranges, at greater distances apart, bound wide prospects, wherein the lesser hill-chains, albeit of dignified pro- portions, appear but as agreeable diversities of scenery.
Over the whole. Nature has flung a robe of verdure of the most fervid tints. She has bidden the mountains loose their streamlets, has commanded the hills and ridges to bloom, filled the valleys with vegetation breath- ing perfume, for the rocks she has woven garlands of creepers, and the stems of trees she has draped with moss ; and sterility she has banished from her domain.
Yet Nature has not produced a soft, velvety, smil- ing England in the midst of Africa. Far from it. She is here too robust and prolific. Her grasses are coarse, and wound like knives and needles; her reeds are tough and tall as bamboos ; her creepers and convolvuli are of cable thickness and length ; her thorns are hooks of steel ; her trees shoot up to a height of a hundred feet. We find no pleasure in straying in search of wild flowers, and game is left undisturbed, because of the diflBculty of moving about, for once the main path is left we find ourselves over head amongst thick, tough, unyielding, lacerating grass.
At Manyema, the beauty of Nature becomes terrible, and in the expression of her powers she is awful. The language of Swahili has words to paint her in every mood. English, rich as it is, is found insufficient. In the former we have the word Pori for a forest, an ordi- nary thickly wooded tract, but for the forests of Ma- nyema it has four special words, Mohuro, Mwitu, Mtambani, and Msitu. For Mohuro we might employ
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ON LIVINGSTONE'S TRACES. 79
the words jungly forest ; for Mwitu, dense woods ; but i876. for Msitu and Mtambani we have no single equivalent, ^^***^^- nor could we express their full meaning without a BambarrA. series of epithets ending with " tangled jungle '* or " im- pervious underwood in the midst of a dense forest*' — for such is in reahty the nature of a Manyema Msitu,
I am of opinion that Manyema owes its fertility to the mountains west of the Tanganika, which by their altitude suddenly cool and liquefy the vapours driven over their tops by the south-east monsoon, for while Uguha west was robed in green, its lake front was black with the ashes of burnt grass.
We left Eiba-Riba's old chief, and his numerous progeny of boys and girls, and his wonderful subjects, encamped on their mountain-top, and journeyed on with rapid pace through tall forests, and along the crests of wooded ridges, down into the depths of gloomy dingles, and up again to daylight into view of sweeping circles of bearded ridges and solemn woods, to Ka- Bambarr^.
Even though thin place had no other associations, it would be attractive and alluring for its innocent wild- ness ; but associated as it is with Livingstone's sufferings, and that self-sacrificing life he led here, I needed only to hear from Mwana Ngoy, son of Mwana Kusu,* ** Yes, this is the place where the old white man stopped for many moons," to make up my mind to halt
" Ah ! he lived here, did he ?"
**Yes."
By this time the population of Ka-Bambarr^, seeing their chief in conversation with the white stranger, had drawn round us under a palm-tree, and mats were spread for us to seat ourselves.
" Did you know the old white man ? Was he your father?"
• Mwana, lord ; Kubvl, parrot.
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80 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT,
1876. ** He was not my father ; but I knew him well October. ,, jg^^^ j^ y^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ P„ ^^ ^g^^^ j^jg people. '' He
Bambarrt. says he knew him. Was lie not a good man ?"
" Yes ; very good.*'
** You say well. He was good to me, and he saved me from the Arabs many a time. The Arabs are hard men, and often he would step between them and roe when they were hard on me. He was a good man, and my children were fond of him. I hear he is dead ?**
" Yes, he is dead."
** Where has he gone to ? **
** Above, my friend,*' said I, pointing to the sky.
" Ah,*' said he breathlessly, and looking up, ** did he come from above ? "
" No, but good men like him go above when they die."
We had many conversations about him. The sons showed me the house he had lived in for a long time when prevented from further wandering by the ulcers in his feet. In the village his memory is cherished, and will be cherished for ever.
It was strange what a sudden improvement in the physiognomy of the native had occurred. In the district of Uhombo we had seen a truly debased negro type. Here we saw people of the Ethiopic negro type, worthy to rank next the more refined Waganda. Mwana Ngoy himself was nothing very remarkable. AgQ had deprived him of his good looks; but there were about him some exceedingly pretty women, with winsome ways about them that were quite charming.
Mwana Ngoy, I suppose, is one of the vainest of vain men. I fancy I can see him now strutting about his village with his sceptral staflF, an amplitude of grass cloth about him, which when measured gives exactly twenty-four square yards, drawn in double folds about his waist, all tags, tassels, and fringes, and painted
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THE UNIVERSAL CHARM OF FEATHERS.
81
in various colours, bronze and black and white and yellow, and on his head a plumy head-dress.
What charms lurk in feathers! From the grand British dowager down to Mwana Ngoy of Ka-Bambarre', all admit the fascination of feathers, whether plucked from ostriches or barn-door fowl.
Mwana Ngoy's plumes were the tribute of the village chanticleers, and his vanity was so excited at the rustle of his feathered crest that he protruded his stomach to such a distance that his head was many degrees from the perpendicular.
1876. October In.
Kizarobal:i.
A YOUTH OF EAST MAKYEMA.
A MAKTEMA ADULT.
On the 10th October we arrived at Kizambala, pre- sided over by another chief, called Mwana Ngoy, a relative of him of Ka-Bambarre.
Up to this date we had seen some twenty villages, and probably 4000 natives, of Manyema, and may therefore be permitted some generah*zations.
The Manyema, then, have several noteworthy pecu- liarities. Their arms are a short sword scabbarded with wood, to which are hung small brass and iron bells, a light, beautifully balanced spear — probably, next to the spear of Uganda, the most perfect in the world. Their VOL. n. — 6
J by Google
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October 10, Kizambala.
82 THEOUQH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. shields were veritable wooden doors. Their dress con- sisted of a narrow apron of antelope skin or finely made grass cloth. They wore knobs, cones, and patches of mud attached to their beards, back hair, and behind the ears. Old Mwana Ngoy had rolled his beard in a ball of dark mud : his children wore their hair in braids with mud fringes. His drummer had a great crescent-shaped patch of mud at the back of the head. At Kizambala, the natives had horns and cones of mud on the tops of their heads. Others, more ambitious, covered the entire head with a crown of mud.
Tlie women, blessed with an abundance of hair,
manufactured it with a stiffening of light cane into a bonnet-shaped head-dress, allowing the back hair to flow down to the waist in masses of ringlets. They seemed to do all the work of life, for at all hours they might be seen, with their large wicker baskets behind them, setting out for the A YOUNG WOMAN OP EAST MANTEMA. rivcrs or crccks to catch
fish, or returning with their fuel baskets strapped on across their foreheads.
Their villages consist of one or more broad streets from 100 to 150 feet wide, flanked by low square huts arranged in tolerably straight lines, and generally situated on swells of land, to secure rapid drainage. At the end of one of these streets is the council and fi^ossip house, overlooking the length of the avenue. In the centre is a platform of tamped clay, with a heavy tree trunk sunk into it, and in the wood have been scooped out a number of troughs, so that several women may pound giain at once. It is a substitute for
the villnge mill.
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CROSSING THE LUAMA. 83
The bouses are separated into two or more apart- i876. ments, and on account of the compact nature of the ^^' "• clay and tamped floor are easily kept clean. The roofs '^^"^ are slimy with the reek of smoke, as though they had been painted with coal-tar. The household chattels or furniture are limited to food baskets, earthenware pots, an assortment of wickerwork dishes, the family shields, spears, knives, swords, and tools, and the fish-baskets lying outside.
They are tolerably hospitable, and permit strangers the free use of their dwellings. The bananas and plan- tains are very luxuriant, while the Guinea palms supply the people with oil and wine; the forests give them fuel, the rivers fish, and the gardens cassava, ground- nuts, and Indian corn.
The chiefs enact strict laws, and, though possessed of but little actual power either of wealth or retinue, exact the utmost deference, and are exceedingly cere- monious, being always followed by a drummer, who taps his drum with masterly skill born of long and continued practice.
On the 11th we crossed the Luama river — a stream 200 yards wide and 8 feet deep in the centre at the ferry — called the Rugumba in Ubujwe. After uniting with the Rubumba, it flows northward, and takes a wide sweep round to clear the northern spurs of the E[a-Bambarre group of mountains, and thence, meeting another stream from the north-west near Uvira, flows west, bisecting the country of Manyema. Beiow the . ford, as far as the Lnalaba, its current is from three to six knots an hour, and about 5 feet deep, flowing over a shaly bed.
On the western side of the Luama the women at once fled upon the approach of our caravan — a certain sign that there had been trouble between them and Arabs.
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84 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. On the 12th, following the Luama river, we
October 12. j,^^^!^^^ Wusumbiri. My predecessors, Livingstone
bin. and Cameron, had, after crossing the stream, proceeded
west, but I preferred to follow the Luama to its junction
with the Lualaba, and thence to Nyangw^.
The Luama valley is about twenty miles wide, furrowed with many watercourses; the soil is poor, abounding with yellow quartz, but resting upon soft shale. The ridges are formed of dykes of granite, which peep out frequently in large masses from amongst the foliage of trees.
The people appeared to be very timid, but behaved amiably. Over fifty followed us, and carried loads most willingly. Three volunteered to follow us where- ever we should go, but we declined their offer.
Our riding-asses were the first ever seen in Man- yema, and effected a striking demonstration in our favour. They obtained more admiration than even we Europeans. Hundreds of natives ran up to us at each village in the greatest excitement to behold the strange long-eared animals, and followed us long distances from their homes to observe the asses* motions.
One ass, known by the name of Muscati, a high- spirited animal from Arabia, possessed braying powers which almost equalled the roar of a lion in volume, and really appeared to enjoy immensely the admiration he excited. His asinine soul took great delight in braying at the unsophisticated Africans of the trans- Luama, for his bray sent them flying in all directions. Scores of times during a day's march we were asked the name of the beast, and, having learnt it they were never tired of talking about the " Mpunda.'*
One must not rashly impute all the blame to the Arabs and Wa-Swahili of the Zanzibar coast for their excesses in Manyema, for the natives are also in a way to blame. Just as the Saxon and Dane and Jute,
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TEE ETIQUETTE OF HARMLESS WAB. 85
invited by the Britons, became their masters, so the i876. Arabs, invited by the Manyema to assist them against ^***' ^^" one another, have become their tyrants. wri.
Bribes were offered to us three times by Manyema chiefs to assist them in destroying their neighbours, to whom they are of near kin, and with whom they have almost daily intimate relations. Our refusal of ivory and slaves appeared to surprise the chiefs, and tliey expressed the opinion that we white men were not as good as the Arabs, for — though it was true we did not rob them of their wives, ravish and steal their daughters, enslave their sons, or despoil them of a single article — the Arabs would have assisted them.
One of my men, who knew Manyema of old, said, *' I told you, master, what kind of people these were : they have always got a little war on hand, and they only wait the arrival of the Arabs to begin it. The quarrel is always with their nearest relatives and friends, whom, however, for the sake of the family alliances between them, they always take care to warn. 1 was once with Mohammed bin Gharib (Livingstone's friend) when he undertook to fight a tribe for Mwana Ngoy of Kizambala on the Luama. We were ten hours firing away as fast as we could, but not a single soul was wounded of either party !
" Mwana Ngoy, you must know, had told his friend the hour Mohammed would begin, and his friend obligingly left the field clear. Some of the boldest had amused themselves by showing, their heads, just to let us know that they were there, but I assure you no one was hurt in the least.
** Of late years it has not been so bloodless, because the Arabs have learned their tricks. When they set out now, they never tell their native confederate when they intend to begin, because they don't like to throw away their powder for nothing. In this manner large
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86 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. numbers of slaves have been captured and many men ^^^^^^* killed. After such an event, both sides, those who
biri. have suffered and those who were the cause and who bribed the Arabs to the war, fall to weeping and abusing the Arabs violently, and with pathetic cries bewail the murdered, but never think of accusing themselves."
The above is the story of Wadi Safeni, the coxswain of the boat on Lake Victoria.
One really does not know whether to pity or to despise the natives of Manyema. Many are amiable enough to deserve good and kind treatment, but others are hardly human. They fly to the woods upon the approach of strangers, leaving their granaries* of Indian corn, erected like screens across the streets, or just, outside the villages, in tempting view of hungry people. If the strangers follow them into the woods to persuade them to return and sell food, the purpose of the visit is mistaken, and they are assailed from behind depths of bush and tall trees. They are humble and liberal to the strong-armed Arab, savage and murderous and cannibalistic to small bands, and every slain man pro- vides a banquet of meat for the forest-natives of Man- yema. Livingstone's uniform gentle treatment of all classes deserved a better return than to have his life attempted four times. His patience finally exhausted, and his life in danjrer, he gave the order to his men, " Fire upon them, these men are wicked."
Nevertheless, the best-natured Arabs confess that the present state of things is to some extent the result of the excesses and high-handed conduct of Muini
• These granaries consist of tall poles — like telegraph poles — ^planted at a distance of about 10 feet from each other, to which are attached about a dozen lines of lliane, or creepers, at interrals, from top to bottom. On these several lines are suspended the maize, point down- wards, by the shucks of the cob. Their appearance suggests lofty screens built up of corn.
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WARBI0R8 PREPARING FOR A WAR OF WORDS. 87
Dugumbi, who, animated by greed for ivory and i876. slaves, signalled his advent in the country by shooting ^^^^^' men as soon as seen in their villages. Aware of the Wri. bad repute which Arabs had in Manyema, I refused to be accompanied by any trader from Ujiji, though some half-dozen earnestly entreated me to wait for them. As far as Nyangw^ all the members of our Expedition had reason to rejoice in this decision, for we were neither threatened nor molested in the least.
An internecine " war " in Manyema is exceedingly comical. Old Riba-Riba, a patriarch of eighty or there- abouts, who with his few villnges guards the frontier on the range separating Uhombo from Manyema, told me he was at " war " with Mwana Buttu of Nyembu. The caupe was the murder of a young man of Riba-Riba's by Mwana Buttu's people.
When the shocking affair became known there was great excitement, much manifestation of anger, loud talk, sharpening of broad-bladed spears, and industrious preparation of stacks of fire-hardened wooden assegais and other deadly war matiriel. All things being ready, Riba-Riba's people reluctantly set off to fight Mwana Buttu's villagers, not, however, without first communi- cating their intentions and publishing by criers a formal and fierce declaration of war.
But Mwana Buttu is of a sterner nature than is common in Manyema; consequently, to Riba-Riba's surprise, he did not abscond for fear of the invading host, but calmly arrayed his warriors in order of battle on the opposite side of a stream, that he might take advantage of the enemy's confusion while crossing.
Riba-Riba's warriors, on emerging from the depth of the forest, perceived the foe palis^aded behind their tall door-like shields, and immediately formed them- selves in like order on their own side of the stream. From this position they opened on the enemy volleys
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88 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. of tongue abuse, which lasted for hours ; until at last October 13. j,^^^^ sides, fatigued with the wordy encounter and ^^ ' hoarse with the prolonged vituperative exercise, mutu- ally consented to defer the battle until next day.
The morrow dawned, and both sides, vigilantly active after their night*s rest, reformed themselves in the same positions which they had occupied on the previous day, and resumed the wordy war with all its fierce gesture, and a great clangour of wooden shields, until sunset, when both parties retired from the field with no decisive advantage to either side.
On the third day the wordy war was resumed, until both tribes, exhausted from the bloodless conflict, mutually agreed that they would postpone the war with spears to an indefinite period. Meanwhile they have left oflF visiting. The affair will only be settled by the arrival of some Arab mercenary, who, for a considera- tion of five or six tusks of ivory, will undertake, with a few explosions of that mischievous compound called gunpowder, to send Mwana Buttu flying and to " beat his back with his own shield," thus avenging Riba- Riba.
On the 13th, after a march of thirteen miles in a west-south-west direction, along a very crooked path, we arrived at Kabungw^.
At this settlement we observed for the first time spears all of wood, having their points sharp and hardened in fire and shafts 8 to 1 0 feet long. As each warrior possesses a sheaf of these weapons, besides a vast wooden shield, he is sufficiently armed against a native enemy, and might, by a little boldness, become a dangerous foe to an Arab.
The currency throughout Manyema consists of cowries. Six cowries formed the ration money of the Wangwana, three cowries purchased a chicken, two procured ten maize-ears, one cowrie obtiined the ser-
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NICKNAMES. 89
vice of a native to grind the grain, two cowries were i876. a day's hire for a porter; so that the Wangwana /^^' and Wanyamwezi were enjoying both abundance and * ""^ relief from labour while we were travelling through Manyema.
At Kabungw^ I was alarmed at an insuflferable odour that pervaded the air we breathed, for, whether in the house or without, the atmosphere seemed loaded with an intolerable stench. On enquiring of the natives whether there was any dead animal putrefying in the neighbourhood, they pointed to the firewood that was burning, and to a tree — a species of laurel — as that which emitted the smell. Upon examination I found it was indeed due to this strange wood, which, however, only becomes offensive under the action of fire.
Between Kabungw^ and Mtuyu, our next camp, the country is extremely populous. Were all the villages we passed inhabited by brave men, a brigade of Euro- pean troops could not move without precaution. The people, however, did not attempt to molest us, though an enormous number came out to stare at us and our asses.
The natives are quick to adopt nicknames. In some places the Arabs were known by the name of Mwana Ngombe, " lords of cows " ; in others, Wasambyi?, or the " uncircumcised," because of their Wanyamwezi followers, which last name has penetrated over an immense region.
Majwara, Frank Pocock's servant, upon receiving the present of a bride from Mtesa because he was the son of Namujurilwa, the champion of Uganda, gave her the name of Tuma-leo, or ** sent to-day.**
The Sarmeen of my first expedition received from his comrades, for his detective qualities, the name of Kach^ch^, or the " weasel."
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90 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT
1876. Lukoma, who accompanied ns to Muta Nzige, called ^''^- himself Mkanga, or " the one who looks behind." "^ Sambuzi received the title of Mta-uza, or the ** spoiler** ; and one of his subordinates was called Ki- swaga, or " fleet-foot.**
Kalulu*s name was formerly Ndugu Mali, ** brother of money.**
Wadi Safeni had a young relative in the Expedition entitled Akili Mali, or "one who is wise with his money/*
Mgongo-Tembo, or ** elephant*s back '* ; Mambu, or " noise '*; Khamis, or " Thursday **; Juma, or " Friday '*; Muini Kheri, or **lord of fortune**; Muini Pembe, or " lord of ivory ** ; and scores of others I might mention.
In the same manner countries receive appellations distinctive of peculiarities, such as —
Unya-Nyemb6, land of hoes. U-Yofa, land of elephants. Unya-Mbewa, land of goats. XJnya-Nkondo, land of sheep. XJnya-Ngoma, land of drums. XJ-Konongo, land of travellers. Unya-Nguruw^, land of hogs. U-Nguru, land of mountains. XJ-Eusu, land of parrots. U-Ganda, land of drums. U-Lungu or U-Rungu, plain land. Ma-Eungu, plateau land. U-Kutu, land of ears (long ears ?). U-Karanga, land of ground-nuts. U-Lua, or U-Kua, land of lakes. U-Emba, lake land. U-Bwari, land of food.
Lakes also have names significative of native ideas, such as the Tanganika, " the great lake spreading out like a plain,'* or " plain-like lake ** ; Niyanja Muta Nzigd, or "the lake of dead locusts," from, no doubt, the swarms of locusts on the plnins of Ankori, Unyoro, and Western Uganda, and the salinas of
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A TRIBE WITH BEARDS.
91
Usongora, being Bwept into it by strong winds ; Niyanja, or Nianja Dkerewe, " the great lake around Ukerewe."
Mtuyu is the easternmost settlement of the country of Uzura. On arrival we perceived that all their women were absent, and naturally enquired what had become of them. They replied, in pathetic strains, " Oh, they are all dead ; all cut off, every one. It was the small-pox ! "
We sympathized with them, of course, because of such a terrible loss, and attempted to express our concern. But one of our enterprising people, while endeavouring to search out a good market for his cowries, discovered several dozen of the women in a wooded ravine !
Skirting the range of hills which bounds the Luama valley on the north, we marched to Mpungu, which is fifteen miles west of Mtuyu. Kitete, its chief, is remarkable for a plaited beard twenty inches long, decorated at the tips with a number of blue glass beads. His hair was also trussed up on the crown of his head in a shapely mass. His brother possessed a beard six inches long; there were half a dozen others with beards of three or four inches long. Kitete's symbol of royalty was a liuge truu- cheon, or Hercules club, blackened and hardened by
KITEt£, TIIE CHIEF OF MPUNGU.
1876. October.
Mtuyu.
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92 TEROUQH THE DARK CONTINENT.
1876. fire. His village was neat, and the architecture of the October, j^^^g peculiar, as the picture below shows.
The Luama valley at Uzura at this season presents a waving extent of grass-grown downs, and while crossing over the higher swells of land, we enjoyed un- interrupted views of thirty or forty miles to the west and south.
From Mpungu we travelled through an interesting country (a distance of four miles), and suddenly from the crest of a low ridge saw the confluence of the Luama with the majestic Lualaba. The former appeared to have a breadth of 400 yards at the mouth ; the
NATIVE HOUSES AT MTUYU.
latter was about 1400 yards wide, a broad river of a pale grey colour, winding slowly from south and by east. We hailed its appearance with shouts of joy, and rested on the spot to enjoy the view. A cross the river, beyond a tawny, grassy stretch towards the south-south- west, is Mount Kijima ; about 1000 feet above the valley, to the south-south-east, across the Luama, runs the Luhye-ya ridge; from its base the plain slopes to the swift Luama. In the bed of the great river are two or three small islands, green with the verdure of trees and sedge. I likened it even here to the Missis- sippi, as it appears before the impetuous, full-volumed Missouri pours its rusty brown water into it.
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October Luamm.
THE TASK BEFORE ME. 93
A tecret rapture filled my soul as I gazed upon the i876, majestic stream. The great mystery that for all these centuries Nature had kept hidden away from the woYld of science was waiting to be solved. For two hundred and twenty miles I had followed one of the sources of the Livingstone to the confluence, and now before me lay the superb river itself! My task was to follow it to the Ocean*
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81 TEBOUQE TEE DARK CONTINENT.
CHAPTER IV.
At a swinging pace— Tippu-Tib, the Arab trader— News of Cameron and his difficulties — The river that flows North for ever — In Dwarf-land, fighting the dwarfis — Tippn-Tib's conditions — Friends in oonncil — Heads or tails — Ealulu's accident at Nyangw^ — Its residents and market — A muster of the Expedition.
1876. Wb resumed our journey. The men, women, and October, children joined in a grand chorus, while a stentor from wMg*. -Qnyamwezi attempted, in a loud and graphic strain, a description of the joy he felt
Ho'\^ quickly we marched ! What a stride and what vei-ve there was in our movements ! Faster, my friends, faster! that you may boast to the Arabs at Nyangwe what veterans you are !
There was no word uttered enjoining quicker speed, but my people seemed intuitively to know my wish : even the youthful gun-bearers vied with each other in an exhibition of pedestrianism.
Over hill and dale we paced through Uzura, and about noon entered the village of Mkwanga, eight miles north-north-west of the confluence of the Luaraa and the Lualaba.
At Mkwanga we met two Wangwana, who in- formed us that the Arabs at Mwana Mamba*s had just returned from an expedition into the forest of Manyema, to avenge the murder of an Arab called Mohammed bin Soud, and his caravan of ten men, by Mwana Mpunda and his people.
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TIPPU'TIB, TEE ARAB TRADER. 95
The next day we crossed the Lulindi — a small river i768. thirty-five yards wide, and fordable — ^and made a ^^"• brilliant march of eighteen miles north-west, across a broad and uninhabited plain which separates Uzura from Mwana Mamba's district, Tubanda, where, having come by a " back door," and having travelled so quickly, we burst upon the astonished Arabs before they were aware of our approach. Contrary, moreover, to the custom of Arabs and Wangwana, 1 had strictly prohibited the firing of musketry to announce our arrival ; consider- ing the drum and trumpet sufficient, and less alarming.
Soon, however, the Arabs advanced — Say id Mezrui, Mohammed bin Sayid. Muini Hassan, and others, who conducted us to the broad verandah of Mezrui's tembe until quarters could be prepared for us.
Last came the famous Hamed bin Mohammed, alias Tippu-Tib, or, as it is variously pronounced by the natives, Tipo-Tib, or Tibbu-Tib, He was a tall, black- bearded man, of negroid complexion, in the prime of life, straight, and quick in his movements, a picture of energy and strength. He had a tine intelligent face, with a nervous twitching of the eyes, and gleaming white and perfectly formed teeth. He was attended by a large retinue of young Arabs, who looked up to him as chief, and a score of Wangwana and Wanyamwezi followers whom he had led over thou- sands of miles through Africa.
With the air of a well-bred Arab, and almost courtier-like in his manner, he welcomed me to Mwana Mamba's village, and his slaves being ready at hand with mat and bolster, he reclined vis-k-vis, while a buzz of admiration of his style was perceptible from the on-lookers. After regarding him for a few minutes, I came to the conclusion that this Arab was a remarkable man — the most remarkable man I had met among Arabs, Wa-Swahili, and half-castes in Africa. He was
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96 THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT.
i«76. neat in his person, his clothes were of a spotless white,
^^'' his fez-cap brand-new, his waist was encircled by a
Mamba. rich dowl^, his dagger was splendid with silver filigree,
and his tout ensemble was that of an Arab gentleman in
very comfortable circumstances.
The person above described was the Arab who had escorted Cameron across the Lualaba as far as Utotera, south latitude 6°, and east longitude 25^ 54'. Naturally, therefore, there was no person at Nyangw^ whose evi- dence was more valuable than Tippu-Tib's as to the direction that my predecessor at Nyangwe had taken. The information he gave me was sufficiently clear — and was, moreover, confirmed by Sayid Mezrui and other Arabs — that the greatest problem of African geo- graphy was left untouched at the exact spot where Dr. Livingstone had felt himself unable to prosecute his travels, and whence he had retraced his steps to Ujiji never to return to Nyangw^.
This was momentous and all-important news to the Expedition. We had arrived at the critical point in our travels: our destinies now awaited my final decision.
But first I was anxious to know why Cameron had declined the journey. Sayid Mezrui said it was because he could not obtain canoes, and because the natives in the Mitamba or forest were exceedingly averse to strangers. Tippu-Tib averred also that Cameron's men decidedly opposed following the river, as no one knew whither it went.
" In the same way I am told the old man Daoud Liviston** — David Livingstone — ^^*was prevented Irom going. The old man tried hard to persuade the Arabs to lend him canoes, but Muini Dugumbi refused, upon the ground that he would be rushing to his death. Cameron also asked for canoes, and offered high prices for them, but Dugumbi would not be persuaded, as ho
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NEWS OF CAMERON AND EI8 DIFFICULTIES. 97
declined to be held responsible by the British Consul at isre. Zanzibar for any accident that might happen to him. ^**^^' Bombay, I believe, wished to go, but Bilal was reso- Mamba. lute in his objections to the river, and each night intrigued with the Arabs to prevent his master. When Cameron reached Imbarri at Kasongo's, I offered to take him for a sum of money as far as the 'Sankuru river, provided he would give me a paper stating that I took him at his own request, and releasing me from all responsibility in the event of a conflict with the natives. He declined to go. I therefore, at his own request, supplied him with guides to take him to Juma Merikani, at Kasongo*s, in Kua, where he would meet Portuguese traders. I have received word from Juma Merikani that Cameron, after many months' stay with him, went on his way, escorted by a large number of Portuguese traders, towards the western sea. That is all I know about it."
Out of this frank explanation, I had, therefore, elicited the information that " want of canoes and hostility of the savages,** reluctance of the Arabs to permit him to proceed by the river from an oflBcious regard for his safety, and the ** cowardice of his followers," were the main causes that prevented the gallant officer from following the river.
These were difficulties for me also to surmount in some manner not yet intelligible. How was I to instil courage into my followers, or sustain it, to obtain the assistance of the Arabs to enable me to make a fair beginning, and afterwards to purchase or make canoes ?
" I suppose, Tippu-Tib," I said, ** having offered the *
other white man your assistance, you would have no objections to offer it to me for the same sum T
" I don't know about tliat," he replied, with a smile. " I have not many people with me now. Many are ixi Imbarri, others are trading in Manyema."
VOL. u. — (
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1876. " How many men have you with you V* October. « Perhaps three hundred — or say two hundred and
MamU. fifty.
** That number would be a grand escort, amply suflS- cient, if well managed, to ensure perfect protection."
** Yes, united with your party, it would be a very strong force, but how would it be when I returned alone ? The natives would say, seeing only my own little force, * These people have been fighting — half of them are killed, because they have no ivory with them ; let us finish them !' 1 know, my friend, these savages very well, and I tell you that that would be their way of thinking."
** But, my friend," said I, ** think how it would be with me, with all the continent before me, and only protected by ray little band ! "
" Ah, yes ! if you Wasungu " (white men) ** are desirous of throwing away your lives, it is no reason we Arabs should. We travel little by little to get ivory and slaves, and are years about it — it is now nine years since I left Zanzibar — ^but you white men only look for rivers and lakes and mountains, and you spend your lives for no reason, and to no purpose. Look at that old man who died in Bisa ! What did he seek year after year, until he became so old that he could not travel ? He had no money, for he never gave any of us anything, he bought no ivory or slaves, yet he travelled farther than any of us, and for what?"
"I know I have no right to expect you to risk your life for me. I only wish you to accompany me sixty days' journey, then leave me to myself. If sixty days' journey is too far, half that distance will do; all I am anxious for is my people. You know the Wangwana are easily swayed by fear, but if they hear that Tippu-Tib has joined me, and is about to accompany me, every man will have a lion's courage."
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TEE RIVEB THAT FLOWS NORTE FOR EVER. 99
" Well, I will think of it to-night, and hold a shauri i876. with my relatives and principal people, and to-morrow ^^^•^ night we will have another talk/' Hamba.
The next evening, at about eight o'clock, Hamed bin Mobammed, or Tippu-Tib, appeared with his cousin, Mohammed bin Sayid, and otbers, to confer upon the important business broached the evening before, and, after the usual courteous and ceremonious greetings, I was requested to state my intentions.
" I would like to go down the river in canoes until I reach the place where the river turns for good eitlier to the west or east."
" How many days' journey on land would that be ?" asked Tippu-Tib.
** I don't know. Do you ?"
" No ; indeed, I was never in that direction ; but I have a man here who has reached farthest of all."
"Where is he?"
" Speak, Abed, son of Jumah, what you know of this river," said Tippu-Tib.
The son of Jumah, thus urged by his superior, spoke and said, " Yes, I know all about the river, El hamd ul illah r C' the thanks be to God ").
" In which direction does it flow, my friend ?"
"It flows north."
"And then?"
"It flows north!"
"And then?"
"Still north r
** Come, my friend, speak ; whither does it flow after reaching the north ?"
"Why, master," replied he, with a bland smile of wonder at my apparent lack of ready comprehension, "don't I tell you it flows north, and north, and north, and there is no end to it. I think it reaches the salt sea, at least some of my friends say so."
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1876. ** Well, in which direction is this salt sea T* ^^^ " Allah yallim !" (" God knows !") Mamba, " I thought you said you knew all about the river ?"
"I know it goes north!" said he decisively, and sharply.
** How do you know ?"
" Because I followed Mtagamoyo to Usongora Meno, and, crossing the Ugarowa,* near the Urindi, went with him to the Lumani and to the dwarf country/*
" How many days is it from here to the dwarf country ?"
" About nine months."
" And is the dwarf country near the Ugarowa ? **
" It is not far from it."
*^ Could you point with your hand the direction of the Ugarowa — near the dwarf country ? "
" Yes, it is there," pointing north by west, magnetic. . " What are the dwarfs like ?^But tell us the story of your journey with Mtagamoyo."
After clearing his throat and arranging his cleanly white dress, he gave me the account of his wanderings to the unknown lands north, as follows : —
*' Mtagamoyo is a man who knows not what fear is — Wallahi ! He is as bold as a lion. When he gave out to the Arabs and Wangwana of Nyangwe that he was about to proceed as far as possible to hunt up ivory, of course we all felt that if any man could guide us to new ivory fields it was Mtagamoyo. Many of the youngest Arabs prepared themselves to follow him, and all of us, mustering our armed slaves, followed in his track.
*'We first reached Uregga, a forest land, where there is nothing but woods, and woods, and woods, for days, and weeks, and months. There was no end to
• The Ugarowa riyer is the Arab corruption of the word Lu-alowa, which Liyingstone called Lnalaba.
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IN DWAJRF'LAND. 101
the woods. The people lived surrounded by woods. i876. Strangers were few before they saw us, and we had ^*****^* shauri after shauri with them. We passed along easily Mambo. for a few days, and then came trouble ; we struck for the Ugarowa, and in about a month we reached Usongora Meno, where we fought day after day. They are fearful fellows, and desperate. We lost men every day. Every man of ours that was killed was eaten. They were hiding behind such thick bushes that we could not see them, and their arrows were poisoned.
" Then the Arabs held another shauri. Some were for returning, for they had lost many men, but Mtaga- moyo would not listen. He said that the pagans should not drive him away.
" Well, the end of the shauri was that we crossed the Ugarowa, and went to Ukusu. Wallahi ! the Wa- kusu were worse than those of Usongora Meno, but Mtagamoyo heard of a country called Unkengeri, where the natives were said to be better. We pushed on, and arrived at Kima-Kima's. When we reached Kima- Kima's, we possessed 290 guns; we had lost twenty guns and any number of slaves on the road.
" Kima-Kiraa, who is on the Lumami, told us about the land of the little men, where the ivory was so abundant that we might get a tusk for a single cowrie. You know, master, that when we Arabs hear of ivory being abundant there is no holding us back. Oh ! we started instantly, crossed the Lumami, and came to the land of the Wakuna. Among the Wakuna, who are big men themselves, we saw some six or seven of the dwarfs; the queerest-looking creatures alive, just a yard high, with long beards and large heads.
" The dwarfs asked us a lot of questions, where we came from, where we were going, and what we wanted. They seemed to be plucky little devils, though we laughed to see them. They told us that in their
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1876. country was ko mucli ivory that we had not enough October. ^^^ ^ carry it, but they were very curious to know Mamba. what we Wanted with it Did we eat it ? * No/ * What then ? * We sell it to other men who make charms of it/ * Oh ! What will you give us if we show the ivory to you ? ' * We will give you cowries and beads.' • * Good, come along.'
" We travelled six days, and then we came to the border village of their country. They would not allow us to penetrate farther until they had seen their king and obtained his consent. In the meantime they said we might trade round about. We did trade. We pur- chased in two days more ivory than the other countries could have supplied ua with in two weeks.
" On the third day the little people came back and told us we might go and live in the king's village. It was a mere long street, you know, with houses, exten- ding a long distance on either side. They gave us a portion of the village to live in. The king was kind, at least he appeared so the first day; the next day he was not so kind, but he sold ns ivory in plenty. There