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SUCCESS IN FLOWER CULTURE.

SELECTION OF SEEDS, = : e : é : = x a 2 2 NG THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION, - - - = : = = z 2 = 6 SOWING SEED, = : = = 2 4 5 : d Ms é aa) Causes OF FAILURE, - = i e : : E . R : : 3 3 Hor-Beps anp CoLp-FRAMEs, - - c ss 3 : z E e ae TRANSPLANTING, - = = 2 z = f * ¥ 4 a : 4 Io DISAPPOINTED CULTIVATORS, = = a 2 Z a a 2 = z Io

THE LAWN AND GARDEN.

Maxine Lawns AND WALKS, - zs = a s 4 C x Le 3 s 12 PLANTING AND ORNAMENTING THE LAWN, - - - - - - - - - 15 BuLB AND PERENNIAL GROUNDS, - - : a = zZ 2 : : 17 GARDEN ADORNMENTS, 5 < 2 = = Z : f : 5 ak Batcony GARDENS, = = & 3 4 a 2 a i «= Bs 20 Winbow Boxes, - = 5 3 / z ms a = uy : . eon Piants FoR BaLconres, Winpow Boxes AND BEDDING, - - - - - - 21 THE WINTER GARDEN. ‘ HEart, = - - - - - - - - - - - - - —n29) AiR AND LIGHT, - - 2 : 2 : 2 : Bs : : 23 Sort AND WartTER, - : f = c = 2 u : 2 i : = ea CLEANLINESS, = = 2 2 = = v u ts Z = B 3 24 THE CONSERVATORY, . = J : 2 2 B = : 4 5! 26 WarDIAN CASES AND FERNERIES,) - - - - - - - - - - 26 Prants For House CuLtTureE, - : 2 = E e Z 4 5 2 - 26 INSECT ENEMIES TO HOUSE PLANTS. THE GREEN FLy, - : = : Ps 2 = 5 = z Z 27 THRIPS, - F : E = = 2 = e a 2 z : 8 Rep SPIDER, - : - 2 2 : E : 2 s = 3 28 SCALE INSECT, - = 2 - : E : a 2 E Z : e328 Meaty Bua, = - : S = 2 : . s : 2 = Z 2 Corp. Pits, - = : 2 : s 2 : 2 B b : 29, 30 FLORAL DECORATIONS. ForMING LETTERS, e : 2 - Z Z : 5 2 : 2 31 MakinGc Frorart Desicns, - - - - - - - - - . - 31 For THE CHURCH, - 2 = S 3 E ; e a cs i : 32 For THE HousgE, - = : = : 2 2 s 2 : - 33 For THE TABLE, = - . = - : E & i E 3 : 34 Bouquet Maxine, - : : - = : 4 é z 2 = 35 Bouquet AND TRIMMING GREEN, - - - - : = = = - : 35 Butron Hore FLowers, - - - - - - - - - = : 36, 37 WATER GARDENING, - 5 2 3 E : 2 2 . i : 3 38 CLASSIFICATION AND NAMES OF FLOWERS, - - - . - - 39 BOTANICAL GLOSSARY, - - z : 2 e : 2 2 s - 40-45 PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY OF BOTANICAL NAMES,~ - - - - 4 46-54 USEFUL TABLES, - Z : : = : L 5 2 ; ; : 54 DESCRIPTIONS OF ANNUAL FLOWERS, - - - - = 5 : : 55-98 CLIMBERS, - = = : 2 : : 4 f = 5 - 90-94 EVERLASTINGS, : = = : = : z 2 5 : E A 95-97 ORNAMENTAL GRASSES, - = = : - 5 e : J Z 2 3 98 PERENNIALS, - - - - - - - - - - oO = = QQ-107 GREEN-HOUSE, - = = - - - 2 : = . : : Se 68 BULBS AND PLANTS, TENDER BULBS AND TUBERS, - - - - - - - - - - 109-115 Borver Prants, . = : e = 2 = : = f 3 2 oG Harpy PLants AND BuLss,~ - - - - - - - - - - 117-126 HOLLAND BULBS, - - = : - - - “ 2 a : 127-139 HARDY CLIMBERS, - - - - - - - - : - . 140 ROSES AND BEDDING PLANTS, - - - - - - - - - 141 MUSHROOM CULTURE, - - - - - < 2 Z 2 2 - 142

VEGETABLES, - - - - - - - - - = = 143-166

Hescription of {f olorerl Alates.

ANNUALS.

1, Ten-WeEEKs Stock; 2, PHtox DrRumMMonp11; 3, DousLtE Porturaca; 4, BALSAM; 5, NEMOPHILA ;

6, JapAN CockscomB; 7, Pansy; 8, STRIPED PETUNIA.

PERENNIALS.

1, AQUILEGIA; 2, PERENNIAL PkEa; 3, Diciraris, (Fox GLove;) 4, DousLE PINK; 5, PERENNIAL

LARKSPUR; 6, CAMPANULA, (CANTERBURY BELL;) 7,SWEET WILLIAM; 8, PICOTEE; 9, PENTSTEMON.

TENDER BULBS.

1, TRITOMA UVARIA; 2, GLADIOLI; 3, TUBEROSE; 4, Danita; 5, T1GRIDIA.

LILIES.

1, HumsBotprTi1; 2, THUNBERGIANUM CITRINUM; 3, WASHINGTONIANUM; 4, PARVUM; 5, EXCELSUM;

6, THUNBERGIANUM GRANDIFLORUM; 7, LONGIFLORUM; 8, AURATUM; 9, RUBRUM.

HOLLAND BULBS. _ I, 2, PotvanrHus Narcissus; 3, Narcissus Poreticus; 4, TRumpetT Narcissus; 5, 6, 7, 8, EARLY

Tutirs; 9, Late Turie; 10, Dovsre Yettow Tur; i1, PARRor” PuLtir) oie) ences.

13, SINGLE HyacinTH; 14, SCILLA.

VEGETABLES. 1, WAX OR BuTrerR Beans; 2, PEAS; 3, Pre PLANT; 4, SWEET CoRN; 5, HarHAwAy Tomato; 6, PureLe-Top Turnip; 7, Cos Lerruce; 8, WATER MELON; 9, CAULIFLOWER; 10, HuBBARD SQUASH; 11, SUMMER CROOK-NECK SQUASH; 12, FILDERKRAUT CABBAGE; 13, EGG PLANT; 14, Lone GREEN CucUMBER; 15, 16, Musk MeEtons; 17, CELERY; 18, BELGIAN GREEN-TOP CARROT; 19, Lona Bioop Beet; 20, Turnip BEET; 21, CALIFORNIA RADISH; 22, OLIVE-SHAPED RADISH ;

23, 24, ONIONS; 25, BELL PEPPER; 26, SHORT-HORN CARROT.

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OUR FLOWER FARMS.

Long before offering a seed for sale, we had grown, or attempted to grow, and improved, or tried to improve, most of our popular flowers, and had also tested many kinds, new and rare, from all quarters of the world. After resigning the editorial profession, with the exception of the preparation of matter for our own little works, and engaging largely in the seed business, we felt that our reputation, as well as the interests of our customers, required that all varieties should be tested, and as many as possible be grown under our own inspection. With this view we have been gradually enlarging our grounds until we now have more than a hundred acres, principally devoted to the culture of flowers for seeds and bulbs. At certain seasons of the year the display is more grand than any one would be likely to imagine. Half-a-mile of Phloxes, and Pansies, and Petunias and Lilies, fields of bloom, acres of beauty, are not to be seen everywhere, nor in all countries. Still, it must be remembered, we grow seeds and bulbs as a business, and not for effect. Our culture is field culture, with plows and horses and cultivators. Those who expect to see our flowers in nicely arranged beds, on extensive lawns, will certainly be disappointed. Our best show of flowers is from the middle of July until the middle of September, and in these months we shall be happy to have our friends see and enjoy our display. In May, June, and part of July, we have nothing particularly to interest the public. We know some of our friends have felt disappointed when visiting us out of season, and hence this caution. We do sometimes make a grand display of Tulips and Hyacinths in May, but not always, for often our customers do not leave us a bulb for our own planting.

The Editor of THE ILLUSTRATED CHRISTIAN WEEKLY being in Rochester, saw a little of our flowers, though quite too early to see them at their best, and was so interested that he sent an Artist to make sketches for that journal. Mr. WHITNEY certainly did his work admirably, for we had no idea before that ou places possessed so much beauty. Having procured the engravings, we take pleasure in presenting the article to our readers.

[From The Illustrated Christian Weekly.] VICK’S CHLEBRATEHD HLOW HR-FARMS. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY E. J. WHITNEY.

Until within a few years but few flower-seeds were grown in America for the market, and these were of the commonest kinds, such as could be produced with little care and skill. Our seedsmen imported their finest sorts mainly from France and Germany, a few from England, while Holland supplied not only the bulbs commonly known as Holland bulbs, but most of our lilies. Mr. JAMES VICK, of Rochester, N. Y., was the pioneer in the systematic growing of flower-seeds, and he is now without doubt the most extensive grower in America. After pursuing this work for several years, and meeting with only moderate success, though employing experienced seed- growers from Europe, he spent a season among the most noted seedsmen of the Old World studying their methods. He particularly noticed the effects of different climates, attributing many of his early failures to ignorance on this point. Returning to the work with new energy and more knowledge, he has made flower-seed growing a grand success.

Stull, all kinds of seeds cannot be grown with profit in any one country. Some sorts are raised best and cheapest in the moist climate of England or Scotland, others are more easily perfected in the south of France; while, on account of some peculiarity of soil or climate, or especial skill and experience, others are only to be obtained in perfection from Germany. To ascertain what kinds would succeed here, and which of these could be profitably grown, required time, travel and money, but Mr. Vick is now reaping his reward, and raises many varieties cheaper than they can be obtained in Europe, and many better, so that seeds of American growth are sought by the best European florists.

Mr. Vick’s gigantic flower-gardens in the blooming season, July and August, make a grand display of floral beauty. Here will be found in the season several acres of Verbenas, the same of Petunias, Pansies, Cockscombs, Zinnias, etc., while Lilies and Gladioli occupy much more ‘space. A score of other things are grown in smaller quantities.

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Many kinds of plants do not perfect their seed in the open ground, and to accommodate these half-a-dozen or more houses are erected. We give a sketch of some of these houses, and also of one devoted to the finer kinds of Petunias, known to florists as Petunia grandiflora. ‘This. variety has very large flowers, often four or five inches in diameter, but produce no seed if planted in the open ground, and indeed bear none in the house unless supplied with plenty of air and sheltered from the rains and dews; and even then every flower must be artificially fertilized. To meet these requirements a roof, partly of glass, is erected on posts, and entirely open at the:

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FERTILIZING SINGLE PETUNIAS WITH POLLEN FROM DOUBLE FLOWERS.

sides and ends. ‘The plants are grown in pots, and every morning each opening flower is fer- tilized by collecting the pollen on a camel’s-hair pencil and distributing it among the pistils.. This plan is generally, though not always, successful.

The Double Petunia bears no seed, the natural organs of the flower being destroyed in doubling. Seeds that produce double flowers are obtained in this interesting way: A house is: filled with fine single-flowering plants, in pots, while another house near by is filled with plants bearing double flowers. The double flower, while it has no pistils, and but very imperfect stamens, does occasionally produce a little pollen. The operator picks a basket of double flowers and takes them to the house containing Single Petunias. He then tears the double flowers in pieces, searching carefully for pollen, and collecting it with a camel’s-hair brush. Every grain is

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worth more and costs more than its weight in gold. This pollen is transferred to the pistils of the single flowers, their own stamens being first removed. It is thus easy to understand why some kinds of flower-seeds are not cheap. Most of this work is done at what is called the Home Place, consisting of about twenty-five acres, nearly two miles east of the center of the city, on East Avenue.

Five miles north from Rochester, towards Lake Ontario, and within two miles of its shore, near a station known as Barnard’s, on the Charlotte branch of the New York Central railroad, is situated Vick’s Flower-Farm. It consists of sixty-five acres, and possesses much natural beauty. A deep wooded ravine runs irregularly through its centre, and through

this winds a little spring-fed stream, which, near the centre of the farm, widens into

a lakelet of several acres, which empties itself over a little fall of six or eight feet. This water is used for the washing of seed, an operation which the artist has sketched for us. It is also pumped by a windmill .nto large elevated tanks, and from these is dis- tributed through iron pipes over the entire grounds. And by convenient arrangements for attaching hose an acre can be watered in a very short time, so that the plants here are never allowed to suffer from drought. The soil is a sandy loam, the timber in the neigh- borhood mainly chestnut and oak, and here are grown those plants that flourish best in a warm soil. Perhaps the largest field devoted entirely to one kind of flowers, at the time of our visit, was one filled with Dahlias, and con- taining six or more acres. It was supposed to include every variety known of real merit, and the display was gorgeous. Next in im- portance, perhaps, were the Asters, of every form and color, from the little dwarf bouquet, a mass of flowers six or eight inches in height, to the great Washington, bearing flowers four or five inches in diameter on plants four feet in height. Each color is ‘ EN ( Ky

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planted separately, and at distant points, to 3 ~&

‘prevent mixture. The Phlox Drummondii, a native of ia America, luxuriates in this light soil, and no other flower, we think, produces such a solid unbroken mass of color—an acre of scarlet, an acre of white, and pink, and so on through six or seven different varieties, and as many. colors, without a single mixture of color, or break, or barren spot to mar its splendor. Several hundred pounds of this seed are grown every year. The seed saved for distinct colors is gathered from the middle of each acre, and early in the season: the remainder, though saved separate later in the year, is used only for mixed colors. To make a good “mixture” it is necessary to grow the colors separate in this way, for if mixed seed is sown those varieties that seed freely will soon “run out” the weaker kinds. Although many other kinds of seed are grown in small quantities, the Aster, Phlox, Dahlia, and Tuberose seem to be specialties. Several convenient houses have been erected for growing the plants which are afterwards transferred to the open fields, (a view of some of these will be observed,) and scores of frames are

FERTILIZING THE LARGE-FLOWERED PETUNIAS.

used for the same purpose. Airy, well-ventilated drying-houses are necessary for drying, cleaning, and storing the seed, as well as cellars of immense capacity for storing the bulbs and roots. One very interesting department is the trial grounds, where everything new or unknown is carelully

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while others seemed quite unworthy of in- » troduction.

The city seed-ware- house of Mr. Vick, where are stored and prepared for shipping seeds of all kinds and of every clime, is a marvel of business activity, order, and des- patch. Thousands of orders are here filled ev- : ery day during the busi- ——— ness season, and, so per- fectly is everything sys-

VIEW FROM THE STAIRS AT SULPHUR SPRING. 5 : tematized, without hurry

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or confusion. This establishment is one of the most complete in the world, embracing, besides the ordinary conveniences of the best seed-houses, artists and engravers’ rooms, printing-offices

(English and German,) book-bindery, box-factory, and post-office.

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SKETCH OF ROADWAY ACROSS THE HEAD OF THE LAKELET,

THAT FURNISIIES THE WATER REQUIRED FOR SEED-WASHING, AND WHICH IS ALSO DISTRIBUTED THROUGH PIPES OVER ALMOST THE ENTIRE FARM,

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THE CULTURE OF FLOWERS is one of the few pleasures that improves alike the mind and the heart, and makes every true lover of these beautiful creations of Infinite Love wiser and purer and nobler. It teaches industry, patience, faith and hope. We plant and sow in hope, and patiently wait with faith in the rain- bow promise that harvest shall never fail. It is a pleasure that brings no pain, a sweet without a snare. True, some fail to realize their hopes, but these failures are usually partial, never embarrassing, and are only such as teach us to study more carefully and obey more

strictly nature’s beautiful laws. Thus we gain, first, wisdom, and then

success as the results even of our failures. I have endeavored in a plain and pleasant way to give some suggestions on the philosophy of vegetation that I think will prove valuable, revealing the causes of past failures and insuring future success. Indeed, I have endeavored in the pages of the FLOWER GARDEN to make the subject so plain as to render failure next to impossible, and success almost certain. Experience, however, is the great teacher. The book of nature is open, but its wonderful beauties and mysteries are revealed only to the careful student. Every species of plants has peculiarities which must be studied, and while we can give a few general principles we can furnish nothing that will compen- sate for the pleasure and profit to be derived from work and study in the garden. Above all things, we caution our readers against over-confidence. No one has less confidence in his own skill and knowledge than the experienced gardener. Every season he seeks for new facts; every year adds to his storeof knowledge. Do not, fora moment, think that the purchase of a few seeds and the perusal of any work on flower culture will make a florist. The purchase of a drug store and a medical library will not make a physician, nor does the possession of paints and canvas constitute an artist. To become skillful in any art requires both study and practice, and this is especially true where we have to deal with nature’s laws. The study of Agriculture and Horti- culture has engaged the attention of the wisest from the earliest ages, and yet what wonderful discoveries and improvements have we witnessed in our own day; and we are still learners. Let us all profit by the lessons of the past and become every year better prepared for the duties and responsibilities of life, more fitted to conquer its evils and enjoy its pleasures—learn to plant more carefully and reap a richer harvest of pleasure and profit.

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SUCCESS IN FLOWER CULTURE.

There is great pleasure in success, while failure causes disappointment and pain. _It would afford me pleasure to teach every one how to succeed in every case in one short lesson, but this may not be. A little difficulty in its attainment sweetens success, and of this sweetness cultivators usually have a full share, for they often have to contend against unfavorable weather, insect enemies, and a host of adverse circumstances. The most skillful sometimes obtain success at considerable cost of labor and patience, while failures are more common than welcome. Many of my readers are of limited experience, some of them just commencing to love and cultivate flowers, and while a few fail, I feel surprised and gratified at the very general success —a little proud, perhaps, at having done something to train up an army of successful florists all over our happy land, the fruits of whose peaceful labor beautify every landscape and perfume every breeze. I have endeavored to make this interesting subject so plain that all may understand the condi- tions on which success in floriculture may generally be assured.

SELECTION OF SEEDS.

The selection of seeds is an important matter, and on the wisdom of the choice success or failure may depend. Those who have little experience should invest money cautiously and in the more hardy and popular kinds, such as Asters, Balsams, Stocks, Petunias, Zinnia, &c., with a few of the more tender kinds, just for trial. This advice will sound strange to my old friends but these will please remember that the wisest knew but little once, and cannot now boast

of excess of knowledge, and that one-half my readers are young peopie, with no experience, yet thirsting for knowledge. Iam anxious to encourage this noble army by a = little success rather than to discourage them by a large failure, for it is an Vd ; I 4 A army larger and more glorious than nist wT itl ee any that has ever ravaged the earth Mi ii a with fire and sword, and Stained its == a SS fair bosom with blood. My desire to spread the love of flowers all over so neater amma this favored land is far greater than my care to make a few dollars. Half-a-dozen flowering plants, well cultivated, will give pleasure, while a hundred neglected, or ill cultivated, will be a source of pain.

Always be careful to get seeds suited to the purposes for which they are designed. If a climber is desired to cover a fence or trellis, the Morning Glory, the climbing Nasturtium, and similar strong growing vines will answer the purpose and give good satisfaction; while some of the more tender climbers will not be likely to come up if planted in such a situation as this, and if they do happen to grow, will not cover the place designed for them, and disappointment will be the result. If the object is a brilliant, showy bed on the lawn, or in the border, the Petunia, Phlox Drummondii, Verbena, &c., will meet your wishes; while a bed of Mignonette. or any of the smaller or less showy flowers, will be entirely out of place. If flowers of taller growth are desired for a showy bed more in the back-ground, the Zinnia, the French Marigold, the Gladioli, &c., are admirably adapted for the purpose, while some very beautiful, low, modest flowers would be worthless. Grave errors are sometimes made, and good flowers condemned merely because they are out of their proper place. I have known people to sow Calceolaria and Cineraria, and other very delicate seeds, in the open ground, not knowing that they require the most careful treatment in the house, and sometimes tax the skill even of the professional florist.

THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION.

The best soil for most flowers, and especially for young plants, and one almost absolutely uecessary for seed-beds, is a rich, mellow loam, containing so much sand that it will not “ bake”’ after hard showers. If we have not such a soil, we must use the best we have, and advantage must

be taken of the various plans to ensure the germination of seeds, which we shall describe. It is 6

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also useless to try to grow good flowers on a poor, ora hard, unbroken soil, or in a bed choked with weeds. In either case the plants become dwarfed, arrive at maturity too early, and flower and ripen their seeds before they have attained half their natural size, and about the time a good robust plant would be forming its buds. Such a soil can be much improved by a little sand, or ashes and manure, and by pretty constant working. It must not, however, be handled when too wet. Always drain the flower garden so that no water will be on or near the surface. SOWING SEED. This is a very important matter, and one in which the young florist is the most likely to fail. Some old and professional florists make sad work in starting seeds, for knowledge is not only necessary, but care and attention. One “ forgot”? may ruin a whole sowing of the choicest seeds. Of course, there _ are some kinds of seeds that are robust =— and will grow, no matter how they are = = = = treated, just as our weeds grow and thrive BOX HAND-GLASS. “SQUARE HAND-GLASS. under ill treatment; but others require kind and proper treatment, just as almost everything desirable does in the animal as well as in the vegetable kingdom. Many seem to think that seeds will grow anywhere and under any circum- stances. They have seen the farmer make a hole and throw in the corn, and in a little while it was up and growing vigorously; they have learned that the seeds of our native trees and weeds grow without planting and care; and from these facts they get the idea that it is of little conse- quence how or where seeds are sown, so that they are in the ground. But these should consider that the seeds used by the farmer are usually larger and produce stronger and more robust plants than those of the florist, and thus are enabled to bear more hardships and to live under more unfavorable circumstances. Still, farmers are fast learning that the better they prepare the ground, the more carefully they sow their seed, and the more they study the nature and wants of the plants they cultivate, the better the crops. Another fact should be remembered — that not one seed in a 3=/ thousand matured by our forest trees ag and shrubs, produces a living plant. : ; We cannot afford to purchase costly SEEDS PROTECTED BY GLASS BELLS. seeds and lose such a large proportion, which would be the result if we should plant in the same manner. Our weeds are prolific, very tenacious of life, and able to propagate themselves under the most unfavorable circumstances; otherwise they would not be generally known as weeds. Most of our troublesome weeds are of foreign origin, the seeds being brought here by accident. The larger part thus introduced have lived for a season and perished unnoticed, while the hardiest became naturalized. If the florist would be satisfied with only the most hardy and prolific flowers, such as would take care of themselves, then he might pursue a careless system of planting and cultivation, and fill his grounds with Dandelions and Poppies; but he craves flowers that are not natural to our climate—those that flourish in warmer climes and under more genial skies — their dazzling beauty, their delicious fragrance, must be _ secured at almost any cost of time and labor. This is well; = but having made up our minds to possess the treasures, we “must pay the price —we must study their habits and treat PROTECTED BY POTS. them accordingly. None need feel alarmed at these remarks, or think themselves incompetent to the charge of such choice plants without hot-beds, green-houses and professional gardeners. We have known ladies, who, with but little preten- sions, equaled the most distinguished florists. There seemed to be magic in their fingers, and everything they touched flourished. It is true that a hot-bed, if properly managed, is of great aid in effecting the germination of seeds, and it is well all should know why this is so.

7

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CAUSES OF FAILURE.

In the first place, however, we will examine reasons why seeds often fail to grow. If seeds are planted /oo deep, they either rot in the damp, cold earth, for the want of warmth necessary to their germination, or, after their germination, perish before the tender shoots can reach the sun and air; and thus that which was designed for their nourishment proves their grave.

If the soil is a st?ff clay, it is often too cold at the time the seeds are planted to-effect their germination ; for it must be understood that warmth and moisture are necessary to the germina- tion of seeds. Neither of these will do alone. Seeds may be kept in a warm, dry room, in dry sand or earth, and they will not grow. They may be placed in damp earth, and kept in a low tempera- ture, and they will most likely rot, though some seeds / Jj==—= Will remain dormant a long time under these circum- =f y = stances. But place them in moist earth, in a warm

Me = room, and they will commence growth at once. _In- == deed, if seeds become damp i in a cold store-room they rot, while if the room is warm they germinate, and thus become ruined, so that seedsmen have to exer- cise great care in keeping their seeds well aired and dry. This accounts for the “ sprouting” or ‘‘ growing”’ of wheat in the sheaf, when the weather is warm and showery at harvest time, and shows why farmers are so anxious for good harvest weather, so that they may secure their grain perfectly dry. Another difficulty with a heavy soil is that it becomes hard on the surface, and this prevents the young plants from “ coming up;” or, if, during showery weather, they happen to get above the surface, they become locked in, and make but little advancement, unless the cultivator is careful to keep the crust well broken; and in doing this the young plants are often destroyed.

If seeds are sown in rough, lumpy ground, a portion will be buried under the clods, and will never grow; and many that start, not finding a fit soil for their tender roots, will perish.. A few may escape these difficulties, and flourish.

All of the foregoing cases show good reason for failure, but there is one cause which is not so apparent. The soil, we will suppose, is well prepared, fine as it can be made, and of that loamy or sandy character best fitted for small seeds. We will suppose, too, that the seeds were sown on the surface, with a little earth sifted over them, and that this was not done until the season was so far advanced as to furnish the warmth necessary to secure vegetation. Under these very favorable circumstances many seeds will grow; and if the weather is both warm and showery, very few will fail. But if, as is very common at the season of the year when we sow our seeds, we have a succession of cold rain storms, many of the more tender kinds will perish. A night’s frost will ruin many more. If, however, the weather should prove warm and without showers, the sur- : face will become very dry, and the seeds, having so slight SEEDS GROWING IN POTS.

SEEDS PROTECTED BY LATH FRAME.

a covering, will be dried up and perish as soon as they germinate, and before the roots attain |

sufficient size and strength to go down in search of moisture. Of course, the finer and more delicate seeds, and those natural to a more favorable climate, suffer most. HOT-BEDS AND COLD-FRAMES.

It is to overcome the evils above suggested that hot-beds are useful. By being protected at the sides and ends with boards, and covered with glass, they confine the moisture which arises from the earth, and thus the atmosphere is kept humid and the surface moist, and the plants are not subjected to changes of temperature, as a uniform state can be maintained no matter what the weather may be. The bottom heat of the hot-bed warms the soil, and enables the grower to put in his seed early, and obtain plants of good size before the soil outside is warm enough to receive the seed. Care, however, is required to prevent scorching the young plants. In bright days the heat is intense inside the frame, and unless air is freely given, or some course taken to obstruct the rays of the sun, most likely a great portion of the plants will be ruined. Some time since, I was called to examine a hot-bed, as the seeds planted did not grow, when I found they had been all burned up, except a few along the edges that were shaded

8

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by the sides and ends of the frame. When the sun gets pretty warm, give the glass a thin coat of whitewash. This gives a little shade, and, with some air during the middle of bright days, will make all safe. The Aof-ded is made by forming a pile of horse manure with the straw used for bedding, or leaves, some three feet in height. Shake all together, so that straw and manure will be equally mixed. It may be sunk in the ground a foot or eighteen inches, or made on the surface. On this place about five inches of good mellow soil. Then set the frame and keep it ‘closed until fermentation takes place and the soil is quite warm. It is better to wait a day or two after this, and then sow the seeds. The principal advantages of a hot-bed can be secured by what is called a cold-frame. This is simply a hot-bed frame, with sash, as shown in the engraving, placed upon a bed of fine, mellow earth, in some sheltered place in the garden. By the exclusion of air and the admission of sun, the earth becomes warm, and the moisture is confined, as in the hot-bed. After the frame is secured in its Z piace, a couple of inches of fine earth should be placed inside, and the frame closed up for a day or two before the seeds are planted. As the cold-frame depends upon the sun for its warmth, it must not be started as soon as the hot-bed, and in this latitude the latter part of Aprilis soon enough. Plants

Reoeet ie tee cot IN MORE: will then be large enough for transplanting to the open ground as soon as danger from frost is over, and, as a general thing, they will be hardier and better able ‘to endure the shock of transplanting than if grown in a hot-bed. A frame of this kind any one can manage. Watering occasionally will be necessary; and air must be given on bright, warm days. Shade also is necessary. These frames, when so small as to be conveniently moved by the hand, are called hand-glasses. A simple frame or box, with a couple of lights of glass on the top, will answer a very good purpose, though when small it would be better to have the front of glass. A very good hand-glass is made of a square frame, with a light of glass at each side and on the top. These contrivances, though so simple as to be made by any one handy with ‘tools, are exceedingly useful, as they prevent the drying of the surface of the ground, and afford the plants shelter from sudden changes of the temperature, cold storms and frosty nights. The engravings show several forms of which they may be made. Seeds may be sown in the house in pots, &c., but the greatest difficulty is that in pots the soil dries very rapidly, and young plants are apt to suffer. A very good plan is to cover the pots with glass, as we have shown in the engraving, removing it occasionally for air, &c. Where very fine seeds are sown in pots, the watering, unless carefully done, generally results in great injury. A wet paper placed over the top of the pot will afford moisture enough for the germination of fine seeds. If pots are used it is well to sink them to the rim in a box of moss, or something of the kind, that will hold moisture, and prevent the diying of the earth in the pots. A shallow box may be used to advantage, sowing the seed carefully in narrow drills.

When these conveniences are not to be had, make a bed of light, mellow soil, in a sheltered situation in the garden; and as soon as the weather becomes settled, and the ground warm, sow the seeds, covering them with a little fine earth, and if very small sift it upon them. Some one has given as a rule that seeds should be covered twice the depth of their own diameter ; that is, that a seed one-sixteenth of an inch through should be covered one-eighth of an inch. Perhaps that is as near correct as any general rule can be. If the weather should prove dry after sowing, it would be well to cover the beds of very small seeds with damp moss, or what is better, with evergreen boughs or boards, or something that will afford partial protection from the sun and wind. A very good plan is to nail lath to a frame, as shown in the engraving, leaving the open spaces about as wide as the lath. Seeds do not require light for their germination, and will grow quite as well in the dark as the light until they are above ground. __Bell-glasses are convenient both for in-doors or garden use, only care must be given to afford plenty of air, especially on bright days, and shading may be necessary. An inverted flower pot answers almost as good a purpose, but when the young plants are up they will need light, which can be afforded for a few days, and until the plants are large, by elevating the pot, as shown in the engraving. Light and air should be furnished as soon as the plants are above ground, or they will become weak and pale. Of course, it is designed that

9

SEEDS IN A BOX.

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plants from the hot-bed, cold-frame and seed-bed shall be transplanted to the border or beds where they are to flower, and these helps are intended mainly for Zender and Half Hardy Annuals, . described in an article on the Classification of Flowers, on another:page. he Hardy Annuals may be sown where they are to flower, though, with the exception of a few varieties difficult to. transplant, it is best to sow all in a seed-bed.

All seeds of hardy and half-hardy Annuals, and Perennials, and, in fact, nearly all flower seeds, can be sown in the South in the autumn. ‘The plants are thus enabled to make vigorous growth in the early spring, and become well matured before the heat of summer. ‘The Perennials should be sown so early as to make a fair growth before winter sets in. Then they will flower the next summer. The Hardy Annuals generally do best sown rather late, so that the seed will. remain in the ground and be ready to start at the first approach of spring.

TRANSPLANTING.

All the operations of the garden should be done with neatness: no crooked, irregular rows are admissible. The engraving shows how easily lines are marked in a bed with a rod or ruler. After plants in the seed-beds have obtained their second leaves and made an inch or two of growth, they should be removed to the garden beds or border. This should be done on a dull, showery day, if possible, if not, the plants may require shading after removal until they become established. In transplanting in dry weather, always give the plants as they stand in the seed-

=I bed a good soaking with water, and also the soil — Y= =i ’ = —

to which they are to be removed, an hour or so before removal. In removing, disturb the roots. as little as possible. If the plants are not too thick, there is no need of injuring the roots; and in sowing, it is well to have this in view, and sow evenly and thinly. As soon as the young | plants come up, if too thick, a portion should be |, removed. A few plants, with long tap-roots, | will not bear removal well. The Larkspurs are ‘difficult: and these and the Poppies, and plants. MARKING FOR PLANTING. with like roots, should be sown where they are to flower. Still, there are few plants but can be removed when young, with proper care. Sweet Peas, Candytuft, and a few flowers of similar character, that do best if sown as early as the ground can be got ready, should always be sown where they are to flower. DISAPPOINTED CULTIVATORS.

Many years of experience and careful estimates have convinced me that while nearly all of my customers succeed in growing excellent flowers from the seeds they receive, and are not only satisfied, but enthusiastic over the results, some two or three per cent. totally fail, or fail to such an extent as to feel quite dissatisfied with the expenditure and labor of the season. To this small number I cannot give much space, but will make a few remarks that may be profitable, and prevent disappointment in the future.

Some are disappointed because flowers do not prove

what they expected. It should be remembered that I do not agree that flowers shall meet the expectations of Joe ee 1 an ee any person. The first thing is to ascertain what it is x right to expect. Not the notion of any person, but the descriptions I have given must be the standard. The descriptions and drawings are not exaggerated, yet they represent plants and flowers that have been well grown : Gaese==—=— § ——— neglected, half-starved plants will present a very different Hull length’ portent Nee eee aaa appearance. Any specimen of the animal as well-as the \oman’s husband. The man who thinks. vegetable kingdom will become dwarfed and deformed, and _ it nonsense for wife and girls to make lose every trace of beauty by ill-treatment and neglect. flower beds. Then the descriptions must be well understood. If I call some little, delicate flower, like a Lobelia, a fine variety, you have a right to expect it to be a fine Lobelia; but have no right to- expect it to be as large, fine and showy as an Aster, a Ten-Weeks’ Stock, or a Zinnia, or any 10

~. P/B —_ VA\ he, Ui) Lye Wak: Sw y MAY Ore = i> » ES pals LA <I SX Ramee — OA ieee) =o = WT irom other of our large, brilliant flowers. It is fine in its place, but not fine for a display in the

garden. A pen-knife is good for the purpose for which it was designed, but it is not exactly fitted for wood-chopping. I advertise double Zinnias, double Stocks, &c.; but you have no right to complain and think you are cheated if one-fourth should come single, but should pull up the single ones as fast as they show their character, and enjoy the good instead of mourning over the bad. Many varie- ties of double flowers do not give seed, so we have to obtain double seed by fertilizing the single flowers with the

pollen of the double, and by other slow and difficult pro- cesses known to the experienced seed-grower. These

operations are usually only partially successful, and, as a necessary consequence, some of the seed will give single flowers; and yet intelligent men, and correspondents of the press, and officers of Agricultural societies, and others who ought to know better, often scold, and write complainingly because seed purchased as double produced single flowers. Again, I advertise separate colors of Phlox Drummondii, Pere he ahs women’s hus. Dianthus, Asters, &c. Occasionally, with some of these, band, who makes wifeandchildrenhappy you will find a little mixture of color. This, with some and home pleasant. things, can not be avoided, even with the greatest care. gS, ’ g There always has been, and always will be, a little uncertainty in growing flowers from seed. They are prone to mix and “sport.” If it were not for this disposition, we could never obtain new varieties. When plants or trees are grown from cuttings, or are produced by budding or grafting, all mixture is the result of carelessness, s accident or fraud. This is not the case with plants produced from seed. While many varieties will come almost or quite true from seed, with good care, others are far less reliable in this respect. All I can prom- ise is that I have done all that human care and skill can do to produce distinct colors, and when there is very much uncertainty in regard to color I advertise them only as “mixed colors.” For this reason I advertise only “ mixed colors” of many varieties. Occasionally we hear complaint that seeds do not grow —perhaps one or two varieties failed out of a —= hundred, and the cultivator is like the shepherd in The woman whose flower seeds never come up the Scriptures, who left the ninety-nine in the wilder- _ Uess they are scratched up. ness and went in search of the lost one. This was well for the shepherd and the sheep, but is not a good plan for florists and flower seeds. If you have ten or twenty varieties, and all grow nicely but one or two, just enjoy the success, instead of making yourself miserable over failures. The best and most skillful gardeners will a \ fail occasionally, and neither the seed nor the gar- dener be very much to blame. Every professional ggrdener knows this. There is a wonder—a mys- tery —in vegetable as well as in animal life. Our

—

ys = friends fail, droop and die—our little ones pass away (SS — just as they are taking deep root in our hearts. We

| = ; feel the deathly pangs, but cannot save. But the variety that failed was the one of all you most desired. Of course, what we cannot have we always want the most. The fish that escapes from the hook is always the largest. ie ean whose flower seeds all come up. But, if you fail to any great extent, make up your mind there is trouble somewhere — some mismanagement — and resolve to find it out, if possi- ble. Don’t jump at the conclusion that the seed was bad, because it is not true, and thousands will praise the seed you condemn as bad. By concluding that you are all right and the seed all if

wrong, you will not only lose the seed, but the benefit of experience. It will not help the matter to say that seeds of your own growing came up in the same beds, unless you had just the ~ same varieties. As a general rule, the finer the varieties of flowers the less vitality in the seeds. One may grow almost anywhere and anyhow, another require the most favorable circumstances for its germination. This is particularly the case with most double flowers, even of the same species or variety. A single Aster will give more seed than a hundred of double, and the seed will be larger, and produce earlier, stronger plants, and will grow under unfavorable circum- stances, where the seed from the double flower would decay. Hence, if there happen to be three seeds from asingle plant in a package, and all should grow, these three plants would produce flowers before any others, and those not acquainted with the facts would say at once, “all my Asters are going to be single.” If, through a bad season or soil, all the Aster seed from the double flowers had died, and only the more robust from the single flower lived, of course, the complaint is, ‘‘I had only three plants from a package of seeds, and that was plenty, for they were very poor flowers.’”’ A beautiful flower is often obtained at the sacrifice of the vigor, and not unfrequently the constitution, of the plant. After laboring long and anxiously to secure some desired improvement, it is not uncommon, just as success seemed about to crown our labors, to find all our hopes blasted on account of some defect in the plant—a grand flower secured and a healthful plant ruined. a

THE LAWN AND GARDEN.

Man may be refined and happy rates a panda he may even have a home, I suppose, without a tree, or shrub, or flower; yet, when the Creator wished to prepare a proper home for man, pure in all his tastes and made in His own likeness, He planted a garden and placed this noblest specimen of creative power in it to dress and to keepit. A few suggestions on the Improving of Grounds and the Adornment of Rural Homes may be useful, and prevent a great many expensive and troublesome mistakes.

MAKING LAWNS AND WALKS.

In the first place, the space in front of the house, and generally the sides exposed to view from the street, should be in grass. No arrangement of beds, or borders of box, or anything else, will look so neat and tasteful as a well kept piece of lawn. It can also be kept in better order at less cost = than in any other way. Mixed beds of flowers or of shrubbery in the most conspicuous part of the garden are always unsatisfactory. Get a good plat of grass, and dry, neat walks, and all other things will soon

WALK STAKED OUT. follow with but little trouble.

The very first thing needed in improving ground is to obtain good drainage. Have good drains made to carry off all waste water from the house and surplus water from the soil. These can be made of stone, laid in any way that will leave an open and secure space for the water to pass through, though where drain tile can be obtained they are as good as anything and usually cheaper. The drains should be from two to four feet deep. Have the work well done, for this is the foundation of all improvement, and a the correction of any failure is made only with a good deal of trouble and expense. This secures a dry soil at all seasons of the year, and a healthy growth of plants or trees.

The next thing is to prepare the soil and make the walks. Make no more roads than are absolutely neces- sary, as many walks divide the lawn and greatly disfigure it. Of course, there must be a bold walk to the front door, and one passing from this to the rear of the house, and in general no more will be necessary. These must be PLANTING FOR CURVED WALKS. made in the most convenient places—in those one would naturally take in going from one place to another. The curved line is the line of beauty, yet we often see attempts at curved

12

walks where a straight one would be much better. Every curve should be a sensible one; that is, have a reason for its course; therefore arrange your planting so as to make an apparent necessity for every turn. The idea is shown in the little sketch accompanying, where the walks curve to accommodate the trees. If the ground to be improved is only a small lot, it can be done best by the spade, and it is not well to endeavor to do it with the plow. In Tm Ll . that case, mark out the walks first. Do this by [4 setting up little sticks on the line you design for the road, as shown in the engraving, changing _them until you get just the curve that seems graceful = and pleasant to the eye. Put a row of sticks on cach side of the road, measuring carefully so as to get the width uniform. Another plan for securing

aaa ae the desired curve to walks is the use of a stout line. The idea is shown in the engraving. Next, remove the earth from the walk to about the depth of eighteen inches, using it to fill up any low places. The walks, of course, have somewhat

the appearance of ditches. The operator is now prepared to pulverize the soil with the spade. Have it done thoroughly, sending the spade well down, and completely inverting the soil, but leaving about six inches on each side of the walk undisturbed for the present, so as not to break the line of the road. All stones found in digging should be thrown into the roads, and often sufficient will be obtained to fill within six or eight inches of the surface; if not, enough can be procured usually without much difficulty. The stone cutter’s yards and the stone piles in the roads and fields generally furnish abundant material. When the walks are filled with this rough material to within six inches of the surface of the soil, the ground being raked off nice and smooth, dig the six inches left undug on the edges of the walks, being careful to keep the edges true and as originally staked out, and then set a turf about six inches wide for a border to the walk, as shown in the engraving, keeping the turf as low as the level of the adjoining soil, or a little lower, and to do this, remove two or three inches of the soil where the turf is to set, according to its thickness.

A good deal of this rough work can be done in the autumn, so as to leave only the finishing up in the spring; but if commenced in the spring, it should WALKS WITH TURF EDGING. be hurried up so as to get the grass sown as early as possible, for grass seed will not start well unless it has the benefit of spring showers. Lawn Grass sown about the first of September, so as to have the benefit of autumn rains, will usually make a fine growth before frost, and be in excellent condition in the early spring, almost appearing like an old lawn by July. All being done as previously advised, sow the grass seed on the well prepared surface, raking it in, and if pretty dry, it is well to roll the soil after sowing. Sow Blue Grass, or a preparation of the most desirable grasses for lawns, sold as Lawn Grass, at the rate of four bushels to the acre. In our Lawn Grass we always put a little Sweet Vernal Grass, on account of its delightful fragrance. If you use Blue Grass, get a little Vernal and use with it, a pound or two to the acre. Most persons also like a pound of White Clover to the acre. If the grass is sown early in the spring and =the weather is at all favorable, by the first of July the lawn will look pretty green, and from the ~middle to the last of July will need cutting, and Te eiON Ob. WALI. after that must be cut as often as the little lawn mower can get a bite. These lawn mowers are a real blessing, for not one in ten thousand can cut a lawn properly with a scythe, and therefore our lawns, before the introduction of mowers, always looked wretched.

It will be strange if a great army of weeds do not appear with the grass, but do not take it for granted that these weeds came from the grass seed sown, because if you had not sown any grass the weeds would have been just as abundant. The farmer who finds the weeds among his corn

18

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PARK SCENERY. and potatoes never imagines that he planted them with the seed. As soon as the grass and weeds get high enough to be cut with a scythe or lawn mower, cut close and evenly, and repeat this as often as possible, and the weeds wlll gradually disappear, but if allowed to grow they will

soon smother the grass and ruin the lawn. A few perennial weeds, like docks, thistles and

: Fall L AL a

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HOME LAWN.

dandelions may be removed by cutting the roots as far down as possible with some narrow,

sharp implement. Two or three such cuttings will generally destroy them, but a pinch of salt

after cutting will make the work sure. After sowing the grass, finish the walks by covering the rough stones with five or six

inches of gravel, as clean as can be procured. It is best to leave the finishing of the walks 14

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until the last, because, even after sowing the grass seed, at raking it in, a quantity of stones will be gathered, and you will need a place to put them and the walk will need the stones. A section

of the road when done will appear as shown in the engrav- ing, and it will be al- ways dry and free from weeds and grass. If the earth should wash from the lawn and cause weeds to ; start, sow salt along the edges and you will see no weeds for a season.

In very small places it would, perhaps, be as cheap to sod the whole, instead of sow- ing grassseed. Where

this is desirable, good turf can be procured from the roadside or pasture, and it should be well and neatly laid.

In large places the plow can be used instead of the spade, and with great economy of labor. In that case the whole lot should be well plowed and dragged before the walks are staked out. After this, stake the walks and remove the earth the necessary depth, using it to level off the low places. There will always be a good deal of work for the spade and rake.

PLANTING AND ORNAMENTING THE LAWN.

Two great errors are usually made, both by gardeners and amateurs; one destroying the lawn by cutting it up with unnecessary walks and flower beds, the other producing the same result by almost literally covering it with trees and shrubbery. Grass cannot grow well among the roots and under the shadow of trees and shrubs, and no lawn can look well cut up in sections by numerous roads. Most of the little lawns we see in this country are almost entirely destroyed by

EicnoRN.s¢ = ==

ENGLISH PARK, QUEEN VICTORIA’S HOME, OSBORNE HOUSE.

FORMS OF BEDS.

one or both of these causes. The main part of the lawn should be left unbroken by any tree or shrub, as a general rule, with only an occasional fine specimen, like a Purple Beech, or Magnolia, or cut-leaved Birch. The shrubbery should be in clumps or groups, in proper places, and so thick as to cover all the ground. The soil under them should be kept cultivated and clean like a flower bed. Trees in appropriate places for shade and beauty, are, of course, desirable; but plant for the future, not for the present, and always have in view the size and form and habits of the trees when full grown, and not their present small size, and, perhaps, delicate form. ne Tree planting must be governed by the extent of the grounds. In a lawn em- Pees bracing many acres, forest trees, or trees of large size, E —— = may be admitted; and then = : RIBBON BED. it will partake somewhat of RIBBON BED. the character of European parks, the nature of which we have endeavored to show in the engraving. These are not given the same care and expense as small lawns; indeed, the grass is often

kept short by sheep, and seldom mown. That portion of the lawn of such parks immediately 15

we Wy Shr DORA Aas a A

x eee ae se es BOCs = ns oboe

PERENNIAL GARDEN.

around the house, however, is always planted with the most beautiful trees and kept in the best possible condition, just in the manner necessary for small lawns, which are most common in this country. We have endeavored to illustrate these two styles by the aid of engravings, and hope to have made the subject plain.

The great difficulty with American gardens is that they are too large, and not sufficiently cared for. If we gave the same amount of labor on a quarter of an acre that we now expend on an acre, the result would be much more satisfactory. No one should have more ground in garden than he can keep in the very highest state of cultivation. It is this kind of

excellence that affords pleasure, while failure or partial success is a source of pain. It is not only a fault to cultivate too much ground, but even too many flowers. Some seem anxious to obtain and grow everything. This is not best, especially where there is not a good deal of time and money to be devoted to the work. A choice selection is best, and I like every cultivator of flowers to have a pet or hobby. Take, for instance, the Pansy, and make it a pet. Obtain the choicest seed, and give the plants the best of care, and you will see to what wonderful perfection it can be grown. Ina few years you will tire, perhaps, of this. Then adopt the Balsam, or Stock, or Aster. Always have something choice — something grown better than any one else is growing it—something you have reason to be proud of. It will astonish you to see how flowers thrive under such petting, and what a wonderful exhibition they make of their gratitude.

Some persons may think from what we have said in favor of grass in front of the house in preference to beds of flowers, that we are no friend to these beautiful treasures—these delightful children of the field and garden, who speak to us in every fragrant breath and lovely tint and graceful form, of Him who spake from naught this matchless beauty. We only wish them to be treatedin a proper manner. In the center of the lawn, especially if opposite a window, it is well to make a round or oval bed, and on the border or near the edges of the lawn, beds of various simple forms. A few plans for these we have given.

16

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These beds should be filled with flowers that will keep in bloom during the whole season, and it is best generally to have but one kind ina bed. Phlox Drummondii, Verbena, Portulaca, and the scarlet Geraniums, are well adapted for this purpose, and occasionally it is well to introduce the ribbon style. The plan is to set plants of the same height and color in a row, several rows forming the bed, and giving it the appearance of the stripes in ribbons, as shown in the engravings p. 15. To make a bed of this kind select flowers of similar height and habit. Of course, if one row loses its flowers the effect is spoiled. If a circular bed is made, the rows toward the center may be taller than the outside rows. A very cheap and pretty ribbon bed can be made by using the different colors of the same flower, like Phlox Drum- mondii, and for a beginner we know of no flower as good. These beds, it must be remembered, are for the adornment of the grounds, and they furnish no flowers for the house—no presents for friends, no bouquet for the dining room, or for schools or churches, or the sick room. These we must have. So, just back of the lawn, make generous beds of flowers that you can cut freely— Asters, Balsams, Zinnias, Stocks, Mignonette, Sweet Peas, &c. In these beds you can also grow the Everlasting Flowers for winter use, and the plants designed for winter flowering in the house. It is best to make such beds oblong, about four or five feet in width, so that one can reach half way across, with alleys or paths between.

THE BULB AND PERENNIAL GROUNDS.

There is aiso asameness about lawn beds that in time becomes tiresome. They are beautiful, but it is unchanging beauty; a bed of beauty, but no plant has character or beauty of its own, each one contributing its share, and sacrificing itself, for the general good. Often, a little tired, we turn from the well kept lawn, with its masses of bright colors, to the beds of Perennials and the Bulb Garden, and there we find each plant in its own character, standing alone, and doing its best to secure our admiration. Every day there seems to be a new development: some plant that we obtained long ago, and for whose blossoms we have been waiting and watching, shows buds, and in a day or two flowers; and another, almost forgotten, to our surprise we find in

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SUMMER-HOUSE GARDEN SCENE. flower. In our Perennial Beds we have many old friends, the Hollyhock, the Sweet William, the Canterbury Bell, and a host of others, while the Bulb Garden is made glorious by the Lilies, Pzeonies, Gladioli and Dahlias, and a score of elegant flowers that have been known and loved for ages. The flowers of this class do not keep in bloom a long time, and therefore are not suited for the lawn, where a continuous show of flowers is absolutely necessary ; but in a position a little retired, like the border of the lawn, or in its rear, nothing can be more interesting, more

beautiful, or more instructive. GARDEN ADORNMENTS.

There are a good many things that may be called garden adornments, or garden furniture, some of them expensive, while others are obtained with the exercise of a little skill and taste. A neat Conservatory gives dignity and somewhat of an aristocratic air to any garden, if in good condition, or what gardeners call, “kept up;’’ otherwise it gives the whole an air of shabby gentility that is painful to behold. Next to the Conservatory, we may class the Summer-house, and this may cost but little; indeed, more depends upon the situation, tastefulness of design, and neatness of construction, than size and cost.

Of all the adornments of the lawn, nothing is more effective than a well filled and well kept vase. Of course it is better to have one of a graceful form ; but almost anything will look well if adorned with healthy, and particularly, drooping plants. It is not of much importance what the plants are if they are only vigorous. All the ornamental-leaved plants are appro- priate for the top or center of the vase, while a few drooping plants should be placed near the edges and , allowed to droop at least half way to the ground. For <®: this purpose the Verbena or the Petunia will answer ; - indeed, fewer plants appear better than a good strong Petunia. The evaporation from vases is very great, much more than is generally supposed, as every side is exposed to air and sun, and they must receive a copious supply of water every evening to keep the plants in good condition.

18

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ROCKERY TO SCREEN AN ABRUPT BANK.

Another very pretty ornament for the garden is the Rockery, made of rough stones, taste- fully laid up, with earth sufficient for the growth of plants suitable for this work. Low growing plants with succulent and ornamental foliage are appropriate to the rockery — Portulaca is admirable. I would like my readers who have had no experience in this kind of garden ornamentation to try a specimen in some retired quarter of the garden, so that if it proves a failure no harm will be done. There is nothing at l= j More interesting than a good rockery, and MUN Sel 22) 2) ii = nothing more unsightly than a poor one. To

mo). be good it must be somewhat natural in appear- ance and have an appropriate position, and be furnished with suitable and healthy plants. A pile of stones thrown together in the center of of a lawn looks bad enough, and it would be hardiy possible to remedy the evil of location by any skill in planting; but a little rockery in some retired corner gives variety and beauty to the garden scene.

Few things pleased us more when in Europe | than the skill exhibited in giving an air of rural taste to small city lots, many of them so very small that few Americans would be willing to attempt ornamental gardening on so diminutive a scale. And yet, if we can make a parlor or sitting-room beautiful in winter with a few plants, why can we not make a : smali paradise of a little twenty-foot-square oan = re a2 — é ‘front yard?” Many of the yards we refer to ei oy en ah DW were not more than twenty feet in width, and amg LAN ne yet remarkable as specimens of taste. Some hee. IAS | of these little gardens were attached to houses i | in rows; others belonged to what are known as semi-detached cottages—that is, two only ; SSE joined together.

AAR AAA We a a specimen of one of these little pe | | AIM | alsa | | | front gardens, or, as they are sometimes called,

BALCONY GARDEN. entrance courts. The lots are sometimes so narrow that the raised bed is made several feet from the center to allow of free passage on one side. The English people seem to love seclusion, and so the front yard is usually bounded by a wall on every side, as we have, in a measure, shown in the engraving, and would be fearfully unsightly but for the fact that these walls are ornamented, and sometimes concealed with climbers and other beautiful plants. The ornamental border that surrounds the central bed is usually 19

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of neat designs. Occasionally a vase is used for the center; and we have seen a. . little rockery occupy the place, but it | is not the place ' for a_rockery. The ‘space - not occupied by beds is covered with flagging or gravel. Some- times the side walls, and even

LNERANCE COURT. the front garden wall furnish support for rockeries, which then take the place of the borders shown in the engraving. We introduce this illustration for the encouragement of those dwellers in our cities and villages who have not yet learned how much can be made of little.

BALCONY GARDENS. Those who have noticed the advance of rural taste in America during the past thirty years. have seen developments unequaled in any country, in any age of the world. Beautiful

Me = rut) S orchards and lawns, and gardens, and tasteful > 2 houses abound, where, a few years ago, we saw a = the crooked rail fence, the trees and stumps nn and small log cabins. We scarcely pass through a village in any part of the country, but we see some place so nicely arranged, so beautiful, and possessing some feature so entirely new, that we are tempted to take out our pencil and make a sketch on the spot.

We have to thank the architects in Roch- ester for planning houses with shady recesses over the front doors, ‘which afford opportunity for the most elegant adornment, and which our people have not been slow to improve. We W7/| [ ie were so pleased with this feature, that we had i ly, i drawings taken of two which presented exhi- eat F eee bitions of rural beauty that gave more pleasure ae to their owners and to the thousands who passed by, than would thousands of dollars expended in architectural display. With plenty of water, plants can be kept in such situations through the summer in perfect health.

In the selection of plants for such places more regard must be had to elegant foliage than beautiful flowers; but it is absolutely necessary to obtain those that will keep in

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perfection a long time, whether chosen for BALCONY GARDEN. foliage or flowers. Plants that rapidly attain their best estate, ripen and pass away, may be 20

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interesting and useful in appropriate places, and generally furnish flowers abundantly for cutting, but should not be planted in vases or baskets, nor on the lawn, where a good show must be kept

up the whole season. WINDOW BOXES.

To those who are not fortunate enough to have balconies, we propose to show how easily ana

cheaply they may provide a substitute. A common box, the length of the window, about eight inches deep and ten inches wide,

can be fastened on the outside of the window by means of brackets, either iron or wood. ‘This may be painted, or, what is still better, covered with oil cloth. Get some ‘ small, set figure, and you have an imitation of a tile box at very little cost, In: |Burope, these, boxes

WENO eo boxes are to be seen in thousands of windows, and many of them both elegant and expensive, some. made of iron and covered with costly tiles. The one we propose is almost as beautiful, and ridiculously cheap.

PLANTS FOR BALCONIES, WINDOW BOXES, AND BEDDING.

PLANTS FOR BALCONIES.—Among plants most useful for balconies we suggest the following: Abutilons, Achyranthus, Begonias, Coleus, Clematis, Convolvulus, Canary-bird Vine, Draczenas, Geraniums (double and single), German Ivy, Honeysuckles (Halleana, and golden-veined), Lobelias, Moneywort, Nepeta (Ground Ivy), Othonna, Tropzeolums, Veronica and Vinca.

PLANTS FOR WINDow Boxrs.—Geraniums, Lobelias, Vinca variegata, Sweet Alyssum, Othonna, Ivy Geraniums, Convolvulus Mauritanicus, Thunbergias, Tropzeolum, Maurandya, Calampelis scabra, and German Ivies.

A great variety of plants is not needed for Lawn Beds, indeed the number of suitable plants is not large. What we require is a strong show of color like that furnished by the scarlet Geraniums, or a mass of foliage of a tropical appearance, like that supplied by the Canna, Cala- dium, &c., or a bed of the more delicate, variegated and ornamental foliage, for which purpose the Coleus and variegated Geranium are adapted. For the different purposes mentioned, in addition to the Annuals already named, and grown from seed, we name a few of the best:

DwarRF PLANTS FOR EDGINGS OR BORDERS OF BEpDs.—Alternanthera, Armeria or Thrift, and Pyrethrum aureum,

WHITE LEAVED PLANTS.—Glaucium, Centaurea and Cineraria maritima.

SHOWY-COLORED FoLIAGE.—Achyranthus, Coleus, and Bronze and Silver-leaf Geraniums.

SCARLET GERANIUMS.—Gen. Grant and Queen of the West.

TALL FOLIAGE PLANTS.—Caladium esculentum, three to four feet in height, leaves more than two feet in length. Cannas, from three to five feet in height; a variety called Robusta, from five to eight feet. Ricinus (Castor Oil Bean), from six to twelve feet.

BED OF TALL FOLIAGE PLANTS.—For a bed of tall Foliage Plants we would advise some- thing like the following: Ricinus or Cannas in the center. If the center is Ricinus they may be surrounded with a circle of Cannas. The next circle should be Caladiums, with an outside border of Coleus or Centaureas. The Ricinus will grow from seed as easily as Corn. Good bulbs must be planted beth of the Caladiums and Cannas. Young plants of Coleus, Centaurea, &c., are grown by most florists for the purpose of bedding, and are obtained at very little cost.

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THE WINTER GARDEN.

To make home cheerful during the long winter of the North, there is nothing that can compare with flowering plants. They are a constant, ever-developing delight. Each day brings new leaves and buds and blossoms, and new forms of loveliness, and we look and wonder and ——————————— = == admire. Withhouse plants,

———— =

——— : = as with all other things, suc-

ae ee ( 0 === cess is essential to enjoyment.

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| possible the work of our own skill — grown from seeds or cuttings or trained by our own hands. We shall en- deavor to give a few sugges- tions that we hope will be | useful; and make the road to

success somewhat easy. We AMI| do not propose to instruct ili| those who have greenhouses

A =p gl i) and gardeners, as we have Hl: a SUT Tl cet th ot ees

AAA | i TAA i NA elt that our mission was a

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think, amore glorious one— ==5 to create a love of flowers among the millions. Thousands of persons purchase vigorous, beautiful plants from the green-houses every year, and are pained to see them gradually and surely lose all trace of beauty, and finally droop and die. How can we prevent this? Plants, like ourselves, need air, light, warmth, food and drink, and

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these in proper euiaw quantities, or BSS they will suffer and finally die.

he ereat desideratum in window plants is, that they give us either flowers or foliage during the long winter months. ‘This |. we can secure | only by careful attention to a few necessary details. First of all, plants in proper condition must be ob- : tained. We =

(—————_/

must not expect a=

those that have * aera

given us of their bounty all summer to continue flowering through the winter. A season of rest

is absolutely necessary to almost all plants. Preparation for winter should begin as early as June. 22

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Even earlier than this, seed of Chinese Primrose and Cineraria should be sown. Plants for winter flowering should be kept in pots all summer, or plants in a proper state must be procured from some florist in the early fall. All buds should be taken from plants designed for winter flowering until about the middle of August. After that they may be allowed to grow that we may have early winter flowers. The later the buds are pinched off in the summer, the later will the WZ plants be in coming into flower in the winter. : iain ail i! This is especially the case with Carnations, Chry- 7 a i santhemums, Bouvardias, Heliotropes, and simi- iA | lar plants. Plants should be brought into the I house and placed in position before the winter aa, fires are made, that they may become “ wonted”’ to their in-door life. Hrat.—Most of our plants are injured by i too much heat. For a general collection of house plants, it is not best to allow the thermom- eter to be above seventy, and if they could be kept in a room where the thermometer would ) usually not range much above sixty-five it would be the better. In the night time fifty is high ~ enough. Give a little fresh air every fine day, * and all the sunlight attainable. An effort should. be made to give moisture to the atmosphere, for our own good as well as the health of the plants. This can be done in various ways by evapo- rating water; but when plants are in a separate apartment, like a little green-house, it can be done more conveniently and effectually, although this separate apartment be only a bay window, ' with glass doors, separating it from the living room. In this place water can be used freely, by syringing, &c., and a moist atmosphere oe The temperature, with this arrangement, can be kept lower than < would be comfortable in the & living room, and the plants £ == are es tee dust and = a many evils which we man- jill : : , age to endure and live, but jfl/ (7a i 7 Wie pu ye ee Tl which generally prove too jij much for the plants.

AIR AND LIGHT. — Ev- ery one knows that a plant grown in the dark is weak and colorless; and if it has | plenty of light and little | air, while it will have the | natural color, it will be slender and sickly. The jj — ne aT = gardener, therefore, is care- =imuuullianh — a nn ON ll HU Tie < ful to give his green-houses Ir, =, and hot-beds not only light, but air at every convenient | opportunity. In winter, he : hails a bright, sunny day with delight. Plants will suffer from a current of cold air just as their owner would, but both are benefited by an invigorating breath of fresh air. Provide, therefore, for air in some way, especially on pleasant days, and every day, unless the weather is too cold — when the mercury registers within 10 deg. of zero. This can be done by opening

23

=| =

a window as far from the plants as possible. When too cold, a door or window in an adjoining room can be opened. Care should be taken, however, that no direct draft blows upon the tender plants, for nothing is worse than cold drafts for both plants and persons. ‘The cracks around the sash and casing should be effectually closed. This can be done very neatly by pasting narrow strips of paper over them. A storm-sash or double window is the surest protection against frost, and next to this is a paper curtain between the plants and the window.

THE SOIL AND WATER.

The soil used in potting should be neither too sandy, as it will dry out too quickly; nor too heavy, for this holds the water too long, and is apt to become soggy. A mixture of sand, leaf-

suit almost all kinds of room plants. I would recommend the use of finely powdered charcoal in the bottom of the pots, not so much to secure good drainage as to correct ascidity in the soil occasioned by over-watering. A moderate use of stimulants will be found very beneficial to growing plants, but they should not be used on such as are partially or wholly dormant. i] Bone-dust, guano, and special ammo- iii niated preparations are the most con- ij venient, especially for city residents. To those who have the facilities for making liquid barn-yard manure, I would say, use that in preference to

| any other. The subject of watering is one that cannot be too carefully studied. How : hi N | and when to water must be learned by 60 Zs EN BAG Ze | experience. General directions only

| TA TH i mould and common garden loam will it

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i F | PATNA Al NeLE | oa WNT UAH can be given. First of all, invariably

—— use warm water. Water only when the soil becomes dry, and apply enough to wet the whole body of earth in the pot. Water sparingly rather than too often. Plants die more easily from drowning than from thirst.

CLEANLINESS is as necessary to the health of plants as to animals, and it is, therefore, neces- sary to secure them from dust as much as possible, and also to cleanse the plants frequently by syringing or washing. Even here a little caution is necessary, for while the smooth-leaved plants, like Ivies, are benefited, not only by showering, but even by washing the leaves with a cloth or sponge, the rough-leaved plants, like the Begonia Rex, do not like to have the surface of their leaves frequently moistened, and should be cleaned with a soft brush. It would, therefore, be well to remove such plants before syringing. Take every precau- tion, however, to prevent the accumulation of dust upon the plants; and above all endeavor to screen them from that terrible infliction, carpet-sweeping. It may be well enough to kill the old people by compelling them to breathe clouds of dust, but send the children into the fresh air to skate, or to snow-ball, and spare the plants, if possible. The essentials of success in plant culture are suitable soil, air, light, moderate and regular heat, a moist atmosphere, regular and moderate watering, and freedom from dust and foul gas.

We have given a few illustrations of Window Gardens, all taken from photographs sent us by our amateur friends, and we think they will show that success is within the reach of all, and under almost any conceivable circumstances.

24

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THE CONSERVATORY. The Winter Garden proper, or Conservatory, is a delightful spot in which - to spend an hour occasionally during the cold storms of winter—a little Eden of our own making —a tropical summer brought to our own doors. All who can afford the expense, we think, should enjoy this luxury. It costs something, to be sure, but the money is not wasted. The making of the building gives employment to those who need it, very likely; the purchase of plants encourages the florist to continue the culture of these beautiful objects. Money spent in luxuries that are elevating and refining is well spent. The florist who grows plants for sale finds that the demand is greatest for small specimens. He therefore crowds every possible space with plants so as to secure as great a return as possible. Amateurs, how- ever, who erect conservatories for pleasure make a great mistake when they imitate the florist in this respect. Private conservatories are made for pleasure, and should be arranged somewhat in the manner of a garden, with a few large and beautiful plants, and broad walks, where the pro- prietor and his family can lounge away an hour pleasantly, in a measure free from care.

What a blessing a rich man would be to a neighborhood, if he were to build such a conser- vatory as we have described, and say to his neighbors and their children that it was constructed partly for their pleasure, and that, at certain times, say two or three days in a week, all were invited to call and enjoy its pleasures at their convenience. Something of this kind is by no means uncommon in Europe, and we have often had the pleasure of uniting with the public in visiting the private, yet magnificent, grounds and houses of many gentlemen, both in England and on the Continent. The idea that the people will injure or destroy plants or flowers is entirely fallacious. Tens of thousands of people, on some days, visit the Kensington gardens and conservatories, yet nothing is harmed. Indeed, if we wished to give an object lesson on good manners, we would point to the gardens where the masses of the people congregate. The American people need education on this point. We have given in the engraving something of an idea of what we think an amateur conservatory should be.

25

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WARDIAN CASES AND FERNERIES.

Some plants will not endure the atmosphere of our living rooms, such as the Ferns, and like

plants, that are found growing naturally in shady places in the woods and groves, and on the

cool banks of brooks. For the purpose of growing these successfully the Wardian Case or

Fernery is necessary. These are simply glass cases, that exclude outside air and dust, while, of

— course, the air inside is confined and hu- i ag

re

na mid. Here ferns, and other delicate plants,

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will grow and flourish with a luxuriousness unknown to plants cultivated in the open air, or subjected to the dust and drafts of } our parlors. The soil should be light and gi porous, composed of leaf-mould with a little sand. To fill them properly put a layer of broken charcoal, an inch and a half in depth, in the pan which is found © at the bottom of the fernery, and upon that place the soil. When setting the plants, give a good supply of water to settle the soil, but not enough to make it soggy: the earth should absorb it all. Place the glass over them, and for the first few days watch the case

iio uiee ie stag closely. If any of the plants show signs of moulding, raise the glass. and let part of the moisture escape. In regard to ventilation no stated directions can be given. A few Ferns and Lycopods will live in an air-tight case, yet even these will do fully as well if a little air is admitted. We would advise an airing once a week. The glass should not be left off too long —fifteen minutes will be enough. Ferns, Mosses, Begonias, Gesnerias, Peperomias, Marantas and Draczenas, can be used to good advantage. Many plants from the woods do nicely,. such as Partridge Vine, Hepaticas and Trailing Arbutus. With a little experience and care these cases will make an ornament worthy of a place in any parlor.

i

FERNERY.

PLANTS FOR HOUSE CULTURE.

In giving a list of plants for house culture we name a few varieties only, and such as we

know to be of easy culture, of real merit, and that will please the lovers of flowers. FOR TEMPERATURE BY DAY 65°, AND 45° BY NIGHT.

foliage Plants. — Dracznas, Euonymous, Farfugium, Begonias (Rex type), Rubber Tree, Abutilon Thompsonii, Palms, Hard Ferns, Vinca variegata.

Climbers. — Solanum Jasminoides, Ivies, Coboea scandens, Pilogyne suavis, Maurandya,. Lygodium, Hoya or Wax Plant, Passion Vine.

Bulbs. — Hyacinths, Tulips (Duc Van Thol), Crocus, Narcissus, Cyclamen, Oxalis.

flowering Plants. — Abutilons, Jasminum grandiflorum, Geraniums, Fuchsias, Carnations,,. Primulas, Libonia, Cupheas, Camellias, Azalias, Violets, Roses, Othonna crassifolia, Oleanders,. Chrysanthemums, Callas.

Of the above, Geraniums, Camellias, the Holland Bulbs, Primroses, Violets, Chrysanthemums. and Carnations, will do best kept quite cool.

FOR TEMPERATURE OF 75° TO 80° BY DAY, AND 60° BY NIGHT.

Begonias, Bouvardias, Cissus, Crotons, Heliotropes, Marantas, Tropzeolum, Salvias, Poin-

settias, Smilax.

26

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INSECT ENEMIES TO HOUSE PLANTS.

The cultivators of house plants have an army of enemies, small, to be sure, but numerous and active. Fortunately, they are not very brave, but like to attack the weak, and soon become discouraged when they meet with vigorous opposition. Indeed, they seem to know where they have a chance of victory and seldom attack plants that are well watched and cared for.

THE GREEN-FLY.

The “ green-fly”’ every plant-raiser knows, and he knows, too, to his sorrow, how destructive it is if left to itself. The plants which this insect attacks are the softest and most succulent, and at the ends of the young shoots, and the softest leaves. It sucks the juices so as materially to injure the plant in a short time. The insects of this kind (Aph7zs) increase with such wonderful rapidity that REAUMUR has proved that in five generations one aphis may be the progenitor of six thousand millions, and there may be ten generations in a year.

GREEN-FLY (APHIS) The insect inflicts the mjury by means of a long rostrum or beak through

a ee which it sucks out the juices—the rostrum, when not in use, les inflected beneath the breast. Their bodies, at the hinder extremity, are furnished with two little promi- nent or knotty openings, from which exude almost continually little drops of a sweet or honey- like fluid. As they take in great quantities of sap, they would soon become gorged if they did not get rid of the superabundant fluid. The leaves and bark of plants much infested by these insects are often completely sprinkled over with drops of this sticky fluid, which, on drying, becomes dark colored and greatly disfigures the foliage.

Of all the means that have been employed for the destruction of this insect, that which has proved most efficient and the one now almost universally practiced, is fumigation with tobacco. Some plants, such as Heliotropes, Salvias, Lantanas, and some others with soft, downy foliage, will not bear ordinary fumigations without injury to the leaves, and these plants, there- fore, should not be subjected to it. Many plants in full flower, but especially Pelargoniums, will throw off their expanded blooms after smoking, and therefore it is best to remove such plants before fumigating: Care should be used also to have the foliage of all the plants dry, for if they are wet or damp, the smoke will be apt to injure such as are of a soft texture. If the plants are in a conservatory attached to the house, the time chosen for fumi- gating should be a still evening when there is little or no wind stirring, and the temperature of the house should be pretty well up, as then the insects are more active and the smoke will more easily affect them. A few chips or a little charcoal may be placed upon a small furnace or a pan and ignited, and then a small quan- tity of tobacco placed upon it—the tobacco should have been previously dampened so as to prevent its burning too rapidly or

blazing.

When only a plant or two, or a small number of them are to be treated, they can be fumigated under an inverted barrel or large box in a back room or shed. Single plants may be fumigated by making a bell of a newspaper, as shown in the engraving. The smoke can be introduced by means of a tobacco-pipe. Fill the bowl two- thirds full of quick-burning tobacco, and after ee

through the stem, with the mouth. Instead lok fumigation, a oie solution of Popes may sometimes be used quite as effectively ; this is often the more convenient way for a few plants. Soak or steep some tobacco in water until the strength is extracted. The strength of the water may be determined by dipping a leaf into it or letting it remain in it for a short time — if the leaf is browned or burned, or turns so when taken out of the water, the solu- tion is too strong, and must be reduced by increasing the quantity of water. When the right degree of strength is acquired, dip the whole plant into the water and afterwards syringe it off with clean water. What we desire to impress most forcibly on the minds of our readers, and ZF

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especially those who keep only a small number of plants in the living-room, is the better way, of watching them so closely and syringing and washing them so frequently that the fly is kept under and the plants maintained in the highest state of health.

THRIPS.

This is an exceedingly active little insect, and seems to leap rather than fly. The engraving shows a thrip of natural size, 7g. 7, and the same insect magnified, fg. 2. These insects are extremely small, and have long, slender bodies, with very narrow wings which are fringed with fine hair. They live on leaves, flowers, in buds, and even in the crevices of the bark of plants, but are so small that they readily escape notice, the largest being not more than one-tenth of an inch in length. The color of the insect varies from a whitish yellow to a dark brown. It attacks the extremities of young shoots and tender leaves, which become brown and shriveled, and will crumble to dust when rubbed between the thumb and finger.

The same means that have been recommended for the destruction of the “« preen-fly”’ serve for this little pest also, but it does not succumb so readily —the fumigation must be more frequently and persistently practiced. As we have said in reference to the “ green-fly,” so with this insect; it may be prevented to a great extent from multiplying, by syringing and frequently washing the leaves of the plants.

If a vinery should be seriously attacked with thrips, wait until all the foliage and fruit are taken off the vines; then remove all kinds of plants that have green leaves into other houses, and shut up the vinery close and fill it with the fumes of sulphur.

RED SPIDER.

The RED SPIDER (Acarus tellarius), is a troublesome little insect, and one which, if allowed to run unchecked, would speedily bring devastation and total ruin to the plants of the house or conservatory; but it is no doubt designed for some beneficial purpose. We can more clearly see the compensating good from its attacks than in the case of most other plant-preyers. If it were not for the wholesome fear which it continually inspires, gardeners and other plant-growers would probably very frequently maintain an atmosphere so dry as materially to injure or destroy their plants. If you catch a glimpse of a red spider you may be sure that the atithosphere of your plant-room has been kept too dry —if it is your living-room, it has also been too dry for the health of the human occupants. It will be seen by the engraving that the insect is very minute, as shown by the little dot @; the same, highly magnified, appears at 6. The body is of a blood-red color, and the feet a light red.

A plant upon which this insect has taken up his abode, in a short time shows some leaves turning yellow, indicating premature decay — when they are numerous they work webs on the under side of the leaves, and sometimes all over it, until the plant becomes a mass of half dead and decayed leaves. RED SPIDER (ACAR-

Water is fatal to the red spider, and as before remarked; withan atmosphere °° Ggerues! of proper humidity this insect would never get a foot-hold. When once firmly established upon the plants, the speediest way to destroy them is by the fumes of sulphur. This remedy, however, must be used with much caution, as the free use of it will cause most plants to shed their leaves.

Fortunately, but little of it is required; and in the green-houses it has been found sufficient to mix a little flour of sulphur with water, or with milk, which is said to be better, and to paint or smear with it a small surface of the heating pipes or the flue; a very little of it in the atmos- phere proves sufficient for the destruction of the insect. In the case of a few house-plants, we think that sponging of the leaves on both sides, and syringing the plants so that the water is thrown on the under as well as upper sides of the leaves, will be effectual without recourse to sulphur.

THRIP,

SCALE INSECT.

The Coccus, or SCALE INSECT, is a common pest on some kinds of plants —the Orange, the Myrtle, the Camellia, the Oleander, and many other hard-wooded plants are apt to be infested by them. There are many species of Coccus, varying slightly from each other. One kind of plants is the home of one variety, and another sort devotes its attention exclusively to some other kind. The Grape, the Pear, the Elm, and almost every kind of our cultivated and forest trees has its special representative of this class of insects. In the engraving the insect of natural size

28

is shown, a, when magnified, the upper side, 4, represents a shield, and the legs are only seen when it is turned on its back, c.

The remedy in this case is by washing the plant by hand and forcing the insect off with the thumb or finger-nail; or take a small, stiff brush and soap-suds, and we brush the plant until it is thoroughly clean. The name of the \ species that infests the Myrtle, Orange, Oleander, &c., is Coccus Hes- s|}peridum. A London friend writes that a little alcohol, applied with a camel hair brush, such as is used in painting with water colors, will kill any insect it touches.

The MEALY Buc (Coccus Adonidum), is similar to the previously

SO

COCCUS, OR SCALE INSECT.

mentioned insect, except that it is cov- Mg) IE ae ee ered with a white, mealy or downy Lede Zo BT yp, substance. Both of them insert their Wed OT fh fy Yl ; 7 Mire Me gD beaks into the bark or leaves, and draw OS ——— ae ok Mis LULZ

from the cellular substance the sap that nourishes them. A weak mixture of whale-oil soap and water in the propor- tion of one pound of soap to five gal- lons of water, will be found destructive to them. With a few plants, only, we would recom- mend the use of a soft brush and water, and in this way they can be readily removed.

OLEANDER LEAF WITH SCALE INSECT.

COLD PITS.

There are some plants that are unable to bear a Northern winter, yet can endure a good deal of what looks like hard treatment. For instance, they can be taken up from the garden in the autumn, and placed in a tolerably light and dry cellar and in the spring are ready for transplanting again to the garden. There are, however, but few cellars fit to preserve plants during the winter, and in these only = the most enduring and long-suffering are safe. What is known to gardeners as the CoLp Pir is only an out-door cellar, ex- pressly made for the preservation of plants. In such pits many of the more hardy green-house plants may be successfully win- tered. The following list, including, perhaps, those plants which amateurs would be most likely to possess, may be wintered perfectly in a cold pit:—Abutilon, Bouvardia, Camellia, Carnation, Cestrum, Crape Myrtle, Erica, Wes oor Ah Fuchsia, Geraniums, Hydrangea, Lantana; i iil

|

FIG. 1.

Laurestinus, Laurus, Oleander, Pittosporum, Pomegranate, Roses of all kinds, Tritoma - uvaria, Yucca, and many others of like nature. Soft-wooded plants, like Verbenas and Helio- | tropes, are apt to mildew.

A pit (fig. 1) for the purpose described should be situated in as sheltered a position as possible, and have thorough drainage. It ‘ may be not more than four feet deep, and be reached from the top or outside when the sash is removed; or it may be from six to eight feet in depth, with several shelves, like fig. 2, and of a size to suit the number of plants to be kept. If built on the side of the house it may adjoin the cellar, and have an entrance into it through the cellar wall; but as dampness is the great enemy of such a place, this trouble may

29

FIG. 2.

be obviated by building a double or hollow brick wall. When it is not convenient to build a stone or brick wall, or where lumber is cheap or easily to be obtained, the walls may be built by taking pieces of two-by-four studding and nailing to them on each side rough boards, so as to form a double wall of boards with an air chamber (fig. 3.) These may then be slipped into their places at the sides and ends of the pit and fastened together. The front wall should not rise over. six inches above the sur- face of the ground, and the rear wall only enough higher to give the sash sufficient slope to carry off the water easily. The back side can be banked up with earth within a few inches of the upper edge. A pit of small size may be made not more than six feet in width and six, nine or twelve feet in length, and it may then be covered with common hot-bed sash, which are usually made about three feet by six feet. Of course it can be made as large as desired, even so large as to require a span roof, which may be made stationary or with moveable sash, at one’s option. In stormy

PAG 3: weather it is necessary to furnish better protection than that afforded by the glass, and this is secured usually by heavy straw matting, and it is well to have narrow board shutters that can be handled easily, to cover the glass, and over these the matting is placed. The two will secure exemption from frost in the worst possible weather.

The straw mats, which we have referred to for covering the pit, are also very useful articles for the gardener in shading his forcing frames or protecting them from the cold in nights of early spring. These mats are easily made and one can employ his time upon them in very cold or stormy weather, when nothing can be done to advantage outside. In order to make a good article and to work to best advantage it is best to employ a frame, such as shown in fig. 4. This frame may be made of two pieces of two-by-four stuff for the sides, of the length required for the mat, and of two transverse pieces morticed into them at the ends. Four feet will be found a very convenient width for the frame. This frame work can rest upon a pair of wooden horses, about two feet in height, in which position the labor can be most easily performed. In the engraving we have shown only two strings, but a mat of four feet width should have at least four strings, which will make the spaces between them about nine and one-half inches in width; closer tying than this even would be preferable. Screws are inserted at the proper distances on the cross pieces, to which the strings are attached. The straw is placed on the strings so as to have all the butts or lower ends come against the sides of the frame, with the tops meeting in the middle, and so thin as to have the mat not more than three-quarters of an inch in thickness when finished. The stitches should not be more than three-fourths = of an inch in width. The tieing string should be wound on a reel, and

FIG. 5. there should be one of them for each stationary string. The method of tie- ing is shown in the illustration, fig. 5. Take a little of the straw with the left hand and work the reel with the right, first over the straw and then under the stationary string, bringing it back between the two strings, pulling tightly and pressing the straw so as to have a flat stitch. In this way the work is continued until the mat is finished. During the daytime, except when the weather is very severe, the matting and shutters should be removed and the plants exposed to the full light, and, when the temperature will admit of it, —as it often will at mid-day, even in some of the more Northern States, —the sash should be removed partially to allow the moisture to evaporate, and thus secure the plants from mildew, which is the result of dampness in a low temperature. Great care should be exercised about giving the plants any water, as it is desirable to keep them as nearly as possible in a state of rest, and, if it were not for the ventilation, the moisture in the pit would be quite sufficient. Pits in different localities will vary considerably in this respect, some being much drier than others. Such pits may also be used for germinating seeds, striking cuttings, and rearing young plants in the spring and summer, with proper ventilation.

30

FIG 4,

Yy

Be Ee TRIES, Y

Wi je aor Ee

FLORAL DECORATIONS.

There are times in all our lives when the heart is joyous, and its rapturous throbs make the eyes sparkle with delight, and wreath the face with smiles. We delight to give expression to this joy in kind acts and pleasant words, in adorning our homes with garlands and flowers, in presenting our loved ones with bouquets and other marks of regard. The “* Merry Christmas ”’ and the ‘‘ Happy New Year,’ CHARLEY’s return from school, the baby’s birthday, and sister’s wedding, must all be honored, and how so innocently, so tastefully, so sweetly as with garlands of flowers? Then the church and school room must be trimmed, and mottoes be made, by fingers which know nothing of the painter’s art, and that have not fashioned a Roman capital since they printed letters to little friends, long, long ago. We will endeavor to show how it is done, with the aid of a few illustrations, and hope to make the subject so plain that all may understand, and with a little practice become expert in the art of Floral Decoration.

FORMING LETTERS.

The forming of letters neatly and rapidly is no mean accomplishment, and those who possess this art are almost invaluable at all festive gatherings. How beautiful the word “ WELCOME,” on some occasions; and “* PEACE ON EARTH,” will be new and glorious every Christmas. These letters are usually made of dry or Everlasting Flowers and dry moss, cedar or other evergreens.

G_ VC Obtain heavy straw board at the book or paper stores, as

ag | vy shown in Figure 1, and mark out the letters with a pencil, = / Determine the height you wish the letters, and divide that = Z _| into six equal parts by drawing lines entirely Across the V | board, as shown in Figure 2.__ Four of these divisions will GZ, be a good proportion for the width YYYyy Yay Gy,

¢ of most letters, as seen by the 777 , same figure. The few letters that vary from this can be correctly Yi made by the following arrange- YY //7

I one inch wide. _ By this arrangement letters of any size can be made by simply dividing the height iuto six sections, and using four such sections for the ordinary width of the letters, varying the width to suit the other letters, as already shown, and always making the letters one section thickness. (See engraving, No. 2.) Letters made by this rule look rather thin, but when covered with flowers or evergreens they are just what is wanted. The letters being cut from the straw-

j wersge, board with a sharp knife or strong shears, are ready to be covered. This can be done by tying with dark thread, small branches of evergreens over the face of the board, with a few Everlasting . Flowers or- bright berries to relieve the sombre ys color. Better letters, however, can be made with

“i figure 3. Tie the moss over the face of the letter as evenly as possible, then cut the stems of the flowers short, leaving only about half an inch. Dip the stem in a little paste, and insert it in the moss, and when dry it will remain secure. We have made very pretty letters by covering the board with Gomphrenas, or Immortelles, fastened to it with thick paste. Crosses, or any desired form, can be made in the same way as letters.

MAKING FLORAL DESIGNS. Flowers are arranged in many beautiful forms, suitable to almost every occasion. In the hands of the skillful florist they are made to speak words of hope to sorrowing hearts, and sing songs of joy in the hour of gladness. | These Floral designs can be ordered of any professional

31

; WS 4 FE a PS ITNT ArT ar

florist, but there are many of our readers, who, from location or circumstances, are not able to employ such aid. There are also occasions when a present of a floral ornament, the work of the donor, would be prized very highly, when the same procured from another would neither be

appropriate nor pleasant. We therefore think a few hints on the making of floral designs from fresh flowers will not be unacceptable.

The engravings show three of the most common designs, wreath, crown and cross; next to these, the anchor is most frequently used. The outline engravings show the forms made of wire, and the lower engravings the designs finished. These wire forms can be obtained at very little cost, of nearly all florists and wire-workers; a full set costs but, very little, and can be used scores of times. These wire frames are filled with damp moss, well packed in, and secured at certain points with light twine or thread, if necessary, to keep the moss in place. Obtain a package of the common wooden tooth-picks, sharpened at both ends, and divide them in the middle ; cut the stems of the flowers short and fasten them to these picks with a fine wire or thread, as shown in the engraving. Of course, these little wooden spikes can be easily made, but they cost comparatively nothing. Insert these picks in the moss, which will keep the flower in just the position desired. Foliage may be treated in the same manner. A little taste, experience and patience will soon enable any one to make these designs in a rapid and artistic manner; It is well to get a few of the most common designs and keep on hand, so as to be in readiness for any occasion.

FOR THE CHURCH.

All church decoration should be neat and simple. It is better to have too little than too much. The church should not be made to resemble a vast conservatory nor an evergreen bower, but should appear like a church tastefully decorated in honor of Him whose temple it is. The wreaths should not be large and heavy, as this gives a gloomy appearance, but light and airy, and a few flowers or bright berries have an enlivening effect, especially if the evergreens are dark, as our arborvitees and hemlocks are in winter.

Most ladies, we presume, understand the making of wreaths. Procure strong cord, and fasten both ends to some stationary objects. Then, having the evergreens cut into small branches, fasten them to the main cord by winding with a smaller twine, working in the flowers at the same time. Crosses, and other designs can be made of straw-board and covered as previously described; or if any object very large is required, the design can be cut from boards. Letters covered with rice are very pretty among dark evergreens.

32

| Be —— a Gs AZ 0 —S NA) (Eine. Z

eC ED fF Boe, SOE Ese S ie i ed OT om, S7, => ome S Sail =z tf — 2 . as i FASE ; Ley SP, ER NA OS Us Zz OR im eS SOO ee ON) ae a

Nteadl a DEUS om: creme mae bALP

FOR THE HOUSE. Decorations for the house require to be much lighter than for church or any large building.

A simple light wreath attached to the cornice has a very pleasant appearance, even if nothing more is done, but a little trimming around the windows and doors add but little to the labor, and

CEILING FESTOONED.

gives a completeness to the work that more than compensates for any extra trouble. The engraving shows a portion of a room pretty elaborately trimmed, and yet all the work is light, and the effect would be pleasing. _If the ceiling is not too low, a few wreaths or festoons suspended from the cornice and looped up in the center, somewhat as shown in the first engraving, is desir- able for full decoration. The gas fixtures should also receive a little attention.

{|

f

! { Ht HI

PARLOR TRIMMED.

In countries where the Ivy grows wild it is used freely for decorative purposes, and being an evergreen it can be obtained at all seasons. In America it does not succeed so well, but still can often be obtained, as it flourishes abundantly in the house with even half a chance, making a most rapid growth. Its leaves are so beautiful and contrast so finely with our common ever- greens that a little Ivy should be procured, if possible, and used where it will produce the most

o¢ 33

effect.

Tie

oy Oe Nae

TE, S ae

decoration.

light in appear- ance, of such a | clear, green, that for trimming dresses

: WY

,. or the~-hair, or =v any light materi- | We al, we know of | nothing in the world its equal. Our engraving | ¥- shows a curtain | trimmed with this beautiful Plant. *ilitsass.a, |

climbing vine,»

PICTURE TRIMMED WITH Ivy.

yard.

Ngrowing to a

Q 5 J . — eet ad HES Sp

5 “4 : ; re 93" is 2 Ss 4 LEE p Sa

tL ae 2c Fie) Se Ley, mr ABA Zp) eS D BUD SAIN a Le ee eA a ead L Yen no) WMI dg

i) MULLINS

glossy | :

‘ms PERN

In many sections of our country the Laurel grows abundantly, and we are always pleased to obtain a package from our friends about Holiday time.

nt leaves, are unsurpassed, even by the Ivy, for winter Smilax excels acquainted with for tasteful trimming.

Its broad, green

everything we are It is so

"}

great length, and |

florists by the

FOR... THE -TABLE.

can be bought of 2

1) RD) {Il I if. Hi \} in

= —— ——- =

WINDOW CURTAIN DECORATED.

It succeeds very well in the house, and may be grown either from the bulbs or seeds.

The subject of Floral Decoration for the table is attracting a good deal of attention, and in Europe prizes are awarded at many of the Horticultural exhibitions for the most highly orna-

mented dining table.

We have seen many such on exhibition, and our objection to many of

them has been that the floral ornaments obstructed the view, so that persons sitting on one side

1

of the table could scarcely see their friends on the other, much less converse with them.

TABLE WITH FLORAL DECORATIONS.

accompanying plan obviates this objection in a great measure. and very light, so as to obstruct the view as little as possible.

filled with water, in which small flowers are arranged.

These

/

ttl Hye

The The tall ornaments are of glass, The low margin is glass troughs glass troughs are made straight,

and half and quarter circles, so that combined they can be made to assume any form desired, even ietters and monograms, for which purposes we have seen them used on festal occasions. Sometimes the central ornaments are omitted, and these flower borders surround and ornament

the Thanksgiving Turkey.

34

BOUQUET MAKING.

Arranging flowers loosely and prettily and naturally in vases and other ornamental receptacles for flowers, is a very easy work, requiring only good taste and some knowledge of the harmony of colors. As a rule ladies do this work well, and need no suggestions from us. The filling of baskets is a little more difficult, because more formal or artificial. First, line the basket with , tin foil, or scatter a little Lycopodium or other = green material, to form a kind of green lining, - and over this put a lining of strong paper. If

the basket is not so open as to show the lining, a simple lining of paper will be enough. ‘Then fill the basket with damp saw-dust, rounding it off at the top and covering with damp moss, inserting the stems of the flow- ers in the moss. If the natural stems are not suitable for this work the flowers can be “stemmed,” that is, fastened to sticks, as recommended for floral designs. It is well to give an edging or border mainly of green. Very few flowers have stems suitable for nice bouquet work, so it is the custom to “ stem” all flowers, that is, give them artificial stems, and the material used for this purpose is broom brush or wire, to iM which the flowers are attached with spool cotton or fine wire. These stiff stems can be made to hold the flowers in any position desired. Tokeep | the flowers from crowding each other, and also to supply moisture, it is N usual to wind damp moss around the stem of the flower at its connection with the artificial stem. The central flower, which is usually the largest, must have a stiff, straight stem, as seen in the engraving, for this really forms the back bone of the bouquet, as well as the handle. Fasten the stems of all flowers around this central flower, as in the small engraving of a bouquet, as it would appear divided near the middle, showing the way the flowers are fastened to the main stem, as well as the manner in which they are kept from crowding each other. After the flowers are all properly attached, and the bouquet formed, cut off the handle to the desired Ve metihe and cover this with tin foil, or wind with ribbon, leaving a loop, so. that ) the ; bouquet may be suspended if desired. | Ornamental papers, prepared for the purpose, are very pretty, and can be obtained at a small price of most florists. | These cover the handle and bottom of the bouquet, and also usually make a quite ornamental border. Our remarks are, of course, designed for hand bouquets, but larger bouquets are made in the same manner, except that they are more pyramidal in form.

Jus

SECTION OF HAND BOUQUET. BOUQUET PAPER.

BOUQUET AND TRIMMING GREEN. In this section of the country, and in many others, the Cedars and Hemlocks are the most easily obtained, and are generally used to furnish the green foi decorative purposes in the winter. There are, however, two little plants (Lycopodiums ) one known as the Ground “ Pine, and the other the Running Pine, and they are the prettiest things we know anything about for winter trimming, excepting, of course, Smilax, which is not to be had in large quantities. These Lycopodiums grow in partially shaded woods, in hilly places, and usually on a poor, sandy soil. |The Ground Pine is used in winter for bou-

35

WY ~~ Ka ES,

quet making, and is called Bouquet Green. ee are both kept by florists, and sold at about $5.00 a barrel. In smaller quantities the Ground Pine is sold at 25 cents a pound, and the Running Pine in packages of ten yards for 50 cents. We give engravings showing the appearance of each kind, the first one being the Running Pine, and its adaptation to light festoon work will be readily understood. The Lycopodiums seem to delight in high hills and cold situations.

We have advised the use of a few bright berries wherever they can be obtained, for lighting up the somite evergreens used for winter decoration. In England the Holly furnishes the most brilliant scarlet, and the Mistletoe the purest white. In many sections of America the American Holly, //ex opfaca, leaves nothing to be desired in the way of a scarlet berry, while in others the Winter Berry, J/ex vertictllata, ENGLISH HOLLY.

illuminates moist places until late in the winter. Another Holly, lex Jevigata, known as the Smooth Winter Berry, abounds in the West, we believe. We have a good many other berry- bearing plants that furnish the most elegant berries in the world, but unfortunately they are usually destroyed by frosts and storms before Holiday time; but some of them may be pre- served in a cool, damp cellar, the stems being placed in water. Among them we would name the Strawberry Shrub, Mountain Ash, Snow ; Berry and Bitter Sweet, all of which are elegant, WINTER BERRY, (ILEX VERTICILLATA.) but the Strawberry Shrub produces, we sometimes think, the most beautiful berry in the world. At the time we write this, November 22d, the Euonymus Shrubs are ablaze with beauty. BUTTON-HOLE FLOWERS.

It is not loug ago, at least it does not seem long to us, when any gentleman who wore a flower in the button-hole of his coat, or any lady who adorned hair or dress with a few flowers, would be thought vain, silly, foppish, etc. We well remember, some years since, when spend- ing a day or two with some English friends between Port Hope and Rice Lake, once when 2), we were in the carriage, g 2/2. just ready to start on an dee y excursion, the gentle- s& q man hastily jumped from Z the carriage, requesting Ze the driver to wait a min- ute, as he had forgotten the button-hole flowers. He soon returned from

BUT ON Mere Ey Uae the garden with flowers BUTTON-HOLE FLOWER. for all, which soon adorned coats and dresses. It seemed very strange for an old gentleman to act so, and yet it was very thoughtful and pretty. Flowers are now worn on all festive

occasions, even in this country, and nowhere are they more prized.

36

_—— [oy ere SSS ps NOTE: y oe STER ae Z AS Uk | AS pe4 — See Sor BK. in =

In the first place, there is the Sutton-hole Bouguet, proper, which is composed of a few very fine flowers tastefully arranged, as shown in our engraving. This must not be confounded with the Button-hole Flower, which is simply a single flower, like a rose-bud, or a Tuberose, with some pretty, sweet-scented leaf for a back-ground, which we have also attempted to illustrate. Both are good. No leaves are more desirable for this purpose than the sweet-scented Geraniums, and we give figures of the best kinds. Plants of either of these can be obtained at 30 cents each, and one or two plants will fur- nish all the leaves that will be needed.

It will be seen that the button-hole fow. &&= er is merely attached a to the stem of the cat es ay\. by a thread or string. A, This is designed to be inserted in the little Bouquet Holder, | which is filled with APPLE. water and attached to coat, dress or hair by the pin. In this way the flowers will keep fresh for a day or two. The button-hole bouquet is arranged differently. The stems of the flowers are covered with a little damp moss or cotton, the whole being surrounded with tin-foil, and fastened to the coat or dress with a common pin. Of course, the holder may be used ye either, or both may be arranged for tin-foil. The Bou- quet Holder is of glass, of any color desired, and costs, by mail, 20 cents each.

The Balm and Ap- ple-leaved Geraniums, particularly the latter, are great favorites with every one, and are useful for many or- namental purposes. The very beautiful cut foliage of the Roseand Dr., Livingston Geraniums are sufficiently attractive in form alone to insure general popularity, but when added to this is their delicate and delightful fragrance, we know we shall be pardoned for urging every one who cultivates flowers to secure at least one of these & plants. They grow easily fromslips, and do nicely in the ~ house, and when once secured, there will be no necessity for again purchasing during a life-time, for in the early autumn slips can be taken off, and potted for winter use in the house, and in the early spring slips can be potted, and in three or four weeks they will be sufficiently rooted to transfer to the open ground.

ROSE.

DR. LIVINGSTON.

BOUQUET HOLDER.

Dip a. 2 ah ae i \ até Za. \ Ne My a Ks ue vas el eer

yy, Sy | , SR aN he eN

WATER GARDENING.

We have not heretofore spoken of a species of gardening that, perhaps, will be new to many of our readers, WATER GARDENING. We ali love to wander along the streams in the summer time, and gather the wild flowers that adorn their banks, yet few may have thought of cultivating those cold water plants in the low meadow near the woods, or in the shallow water by the banks of the brook. A. notice of a few of our best common water plants may be profitable.

Among the many beautiful flowers that ; adorn our world there are none more NUPHAR ADVENA. NYMPHA ODORATA. gorgeous than the WATER LILIES.

Nuphar advena is the common yellow Water Lily, that abounds almost everywhere, we believe, in our Middle, Northern and Western States. It is a showy flower, and stands well up from the water, on a strong stem, as shown in the engraving.

Nymphea odorata is the most beautiful of all our native Water Lilies. It is usually as white as snow, though occasionally highly tinted with pink, and as fragrant as a Violet. It generally sits gracefully upon the water, though, in shallow places, the flower is some- times borne above the surface.

Nymphea tuberosa is larger than Wymphea odorata, not very fragrant, and never tinted with pink.

Calla palustris is our native Calla, and is quite common in many portions of the North. The

MUA se believe, gathered and eaten b PHS

= ~6the Indians, as they yield con- - siderable starch.

Sagittaria sagittifolia.—This is a very handsome aquatic, with arrow-headed leaves, from which IRIS VERSICOLOR. its name is derived. It is common in half the world. In China it is cultivated extensively for the bulbs, for food. It is very common in all our inland waters, creeks and swamps.

Pontederia cordata, of purplish-blue flowers. commonly called Prck- z Ranunculus aquatilis erel-weed, 18 common is a beautitul little plant, over a large section of particularly in foliage. our country. It is found It is called the Water in shallow water, is a Crowfoot. The flowers vigorous plant, with are white, borne well long-stalked leaves, of up above the water. the arrow-head form, : : — Caltha palustris. This, with a one-leaved stem, ne ‘a we think, every one will terminated by a spike CALTHA PALUSTRIS. MENYANTHES TRIFOLIATA. recognize as the well- known Cowslip, used by housewives in the spring for “ greens,’’ and often sold in our markets.

Menyanthes trifoliata, one of the most beautiful of our aquatic plants, is found in cold bogs all over the North. The flowers are pink and white, and delicately fringed.

Typha latifolia is the well-known Cat’s-tail Flag, and often erroneously called Bullrush, which is quite another plant.

Tris versicolor. — Almost every one is acquainted with some of the garden varieties of Iris, but there are many who never saw our native /. versicolor flowering on the banks of streams.

38

TYPHA LATIFOLIA.

Se

—~ 2 LE ge mee

CLASSIFICATION AND NAMES OF FLOWERS.

The flowering plants of our gardens, besides shrubs, trees, &c., are HERBACEOUS PEREN- NIALS, BIENNIALS, ANNUALS and BULBOUS.

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS are plants which die down to the ground every autumn, but tha roots continue to live, and new branches and flower stems are thrown up for many years. Some continue indefinitely, but others die after three or four years, like the Sweet William ; but if the roots are divided every year, they will continue to live and increase. These are called /izperfect Perennials.

BIENNIALS are those that flower the second season after the seed is sown, and then die, unless particular care is taken to preserve them, by dividing the roots, or retarding the flowering at the usual time by removing the buds. Some of these classes flower the same season under favor- able circumstances, as when the seed is sown early.

ANNUALS flower the first season, perfect their seeds, and then die. Some varieties that are grown as Annuals in a Northern climate, are either Perennials or Biennials in their Southern home, where there are no severe frosts. Annuals flower in a few weeks or months after being planted, and can be depended upon for a brilliant show. Annuals are classed as hardy, half- hardy and tender. Hardy Annuals are those that, like the Larkspur, Candytuft, &c., may be sown in the autumn or very early in the spring, in the open ground. The half-hardy varie- ties will not endure frost, and should not be sown in the open ground until danger from frost is over. The Balsam and the Marigolds belong to this class. The ¢exder Annuals generally require starting in a green-house or hot-bed to bring them to perfection, and should not be set in the open ground until the weather is quite warm. The Cypress Vine and the Sensitive Plant belong to this class; but, fortunately, very few of our fine Annuals. Some of them do tolerably well if sown in the open ground the latter part of May, but very great success is not to be expected in this way. It must be admitted, however, that these distinctions are not well defined, and it is difficult to say where some kinds belong. Ina climate sufficiently South, of course, those kinds we describe as tender are perfectly hardy.

BuLss are divided into Hardy, Holland and Tender. The Hardy includes all that will bear a Northern winter. Ho//and, those exclusively grown in Holland, like Hyacinths, Crocuses, Tulips, &c. 7Zender, those, like the Gladioli and Tuberose, that will not bear freezing, and therefore must be planted in the spring.

We make a rather different division in this work, and one which, we think, will be found quite convenient.

Ist. ALL KINDS that PRODUCE FLOWERS the same SEASON the SEED IS SOWN, are arranged in one Department, under the heading of ANNUALS. This Department includes the following sub- divisions : Chimbers, Everlastings and Ornamental Grasses.

2d. Under the name of PERENNIALS, all plants produced from seed that bloom the second season after planting.

3d. GREENHOUSE, describing the leading plants grown from seeds adapted to Greenhouse culture.

4th. BuLBs AND PLANTs. This Department has two divisions: Tender Bulbs and Tubers, embracing all those tender bulbs, like the Dahlia, Gladiolus, Tuberose, &c., that will not bear frost, and consequently must be planted only in the spring in a Northernclimate. Hardy Plants and Bulbs, embracing all the Lilies, Peeonies, and other things that will endure our winters, and consequently can be planted either in the fall or spring.

5th. HOLLAND Buss. This Department embraces Hyacinths, Tulips, and all other Bulbs known as Holland Bulbs, and these must be planted in the autumn.

To aid in a more general understanding of the subject we give a GLOSSARY, explaining and illustrating the botanical terms in most common use, and also a PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY of BOTANICAL NAMES, which will serve as a guide to their proper pronunciation, and give much information regarding their origin and meaning.

39

Alternate Leaves.

Ament or Catkin,

Leaf with auricu- late base.

Axillary Bud.

Labiate or Bilabi- ate Corolla.

Petal of Pink; C, Claw.

i a . EP a Tr 2 —— Caps) j Ee yA» eS ). SEN Bh q aS) VLA Wir 5

GG EON NEA ») :

BOTANICAL GLOSSARY.

ABORTIVE: Imperfectly developed.

ACHENIUM: A small, hard, seed-like fruit.

ACULEATE: Furnished with prickles.

ALA: A wing; plural a/e; the side petals of a papilio- naceous flower. See Wing.

ALATE: Winged; as the seeds of the Maple, Elm, &c.

ALTERNATE: Leaves are said to be alternate when they are situated first on one side then on another of the

_ stem or branch, but not opposite to each other.

AMENT: A scaly spike, as the Willow: a catkin.

ANTHER: The head and essential part of the stamen, containing the pollen.

APETALOUS: Destitute of petals.

AURICULATE: Having lobes or appendages like the ear, as at the base of some leaves.

AxIL: The angle or upper side between a leaf and stem.

AXILLARY (buds, &c.): Situated in the axil.

BELL-SHAPED: Having a bell-form.

BERRY: A fruit, pulpy or juicy throughout; as the Gooseberry, Cranberry, Tomato, &c.

BILABIATE: ‘Two lipped; asthe corolla of the Salvia, &c.

Bract: A small leaf or scale, from the axil of which a flower or its pedicel proceeds. _Bracts in general, are the leaves of an inflorescence more or less different from ordinary leaves.

BRACTLET: A bract on the pedicel or flower-stalk.

Bus: <A roundish body produced by a plant either above or below the ground, (usually the latter,) and which is really a bud. It consists of a cluster of partially de- veloped leaves, and as it grows it produces a stem and roots; as the Tulip, Lily, &c.

CaLyx: The outer covering or leaf-like envelope of a bud or flower, as shown at A in the engraving.

CAMPANULATE: Bell-shaped.

CAPSULE: Any dry seed vessel or pod which opens by seams in a regular way.

CARPEL: A simple pistil, or one of the parts of a com- pound pistil.

CATKIN: Ascaly, deciduous spike of flowers; an ament.

CILIATE: Having the margin furnished with a fringe of hairs or bristles like the eyelashes fringing the eyelids.

CLAw: ‘The narrow base of some petals.

CORDATE: Heart-shaped; as a cordate leaf.

Flower of Fuchsia. C, C, Cotyledons,

Cordate Leaf. B is the Corolla. or Seed Leaves of a young plant.

40

.Campanulate or Bell-shaped.

Corymb.—Phlox.

Digitate Leaf.

| Horsechestnut.

Leaflet.

’ a: |< = Se q- GE ' YY) 7 B0cy SSN 9 ead OS RD ES ER Zo Ow CALA) WT 4 OD epee ae a Oe) nO ae a

Corm: A solid bulb, like that of the Gladiolus and Crocus.

CoroLLA: Inner covering of a flower; name of the petals taken collectively.

CoryMs: A flat or convex flower cluster, in which the flower-stalks or peduncles are produced alternately along the common stalk and rise to the same height, so as to form a flat or slightly rounded surface, and the expansion of the flowers proceeds regularly from the circumference to the center; as in Phlox Drummondii.

CoTYLEDONS: Seed lobes; the first leaves in the embryo.

CymME: A flower cluster resembling a corymb in form, but differing from it by the expansion of the flowers from the center to the circumference.

DEFLEXED: Bent downwards.

DEHISCENCE: The mode in which an anther or pod bursts or splits open.

DEHISCENT: Opening in a regular manner by dehiscence.

DENTATE: Toothed.

DIGITATE: A compound leaf is said to be digitate when all of its leaflets start out from the apex of the petiole.

Disk: The central part of a head of flowers, like the Sunflower, in distinction from the flowers at the margin called the ray. An enlarged part of the receptacle.

Downy: Clothed with a coat of soft and short hairs.

DrupPeE: A stone fruit.

EMARGINATE: Notched at the summit. Leaf.

Emsryo: The rudiment of the plant in the seed.

EQUITANT: (Aiding straddle) eaves are said to be equitant when their bases or edges alternately overlap each other, as, the equitant leaves of the Iris.

ExTRORSE: Turned outwards: the anther is extrorse when fixed to the outside of the filament and faces the petals.

FASCICLE: A close cluster; a cyme with the flowers much crowded; as the Sweet William.

FEATHER-VEINED: Veins proceeding from a mid-rib at | Frond of Fern; E an acute angle. frond ; F stipe.

FronpD: The leafy part of a fern; a combination of leaf and stem, as in many Algze and Liverworts.

GAMOPETALOUS: Having the petals united so as to form a tube; monopetalous.

GENus: Aclass more extensive and higher than a species.

GERM: A growing point; a bud; that which is to develop

an embryo. Hasir: The appearance and mode of growth of a plant. Convolvulus ; gam-

HERBACEOUS: Of the texture of herbs; not woody. opetalous flower.

C, Internode; D,

Node or Joint.

Tacmate eat. Lanceolate Leaf. Rose Leaf, show- ing five leaflets.

G, Involucre.

41

at Vi (

Wad eeeo = ZAP eB » Nitin %, Sea WA Q ; Ves Sameer ee. Raita as —— ra Nc eh ea -

Hirsute: Hairy; having stiffish or beard-like hairs.

Hortus Siccus: An herbarium, or collection of dried plants.

Hysrip: A cross between two allied species.

INSERTION: The mode or place of attachment of an organ.

INTERNODE: The part of a stem between the nodes.

INTRORSE: . Turned inwards; an anther is introrse when fs \i it faces the pistils. Leaf of Begonia

INVoLUCRE: A whorl or set of bracts around a flower, | Rex, showing the

: umbel, or head, as shown at G in the engraving. netteiaiae: ‘Lasiate: Lipped; bilabiate.

LACINIATE: Cut irregularly into deep, narrow lobes; slashed.

LANCEOLATE: Lance-shaped.

LEAFLET: One of the parts or divisions of a compound leaf, as seen in the Horsechestnut leaf. (See engrav- ing of digitate leaf.)

LEGUME: The fruit of a leguminous plant; as the pod of a pea; a single, two-valved carpel.

Lose: Any projection or division, especially of a some- what rounded form.

LomMENT: A pod like the legume, of two valves, but divided into small cells, each containing a single seed.

MACULATE: Spotted.

MARGINATE: Having an edge or margin different from

A Loment. the rest. ObcordateLeaflets |

Lo See | Miprip:” The middlevor maim rib or alex Oxalis Bowei.

NEEDLE-SHAPED: Long, ‘slender’ and rigid, like the |g eu leaves of pines.

NervE: A name for the ribs or veins of leaves when simple and parallel.

NETTED-VEINED: Furnished with branching veins form- ing net-work.

Y/ NopE: A knot; the joint of a stem from which springs

3eet Leaf, show- a leaf or a pair of leaves.

ing mid-rib. OBCORDATE: Heart-shaped, with the attachment by the

pointed end. OBLANCEOLATE: Lance-shaped, with the attachment at the tapering point. OBOVATE: Ovate, but with the broad end upward. OpposITE: Placed on opposite sides of some other body ; thus when leaves are opposite they are on opposite sides of the stem; and petals on opposite sides of flowers. Nerwediieaves. | ORBICULAR? Circular in outline, or meaning sc.

Opposite Leaves of Orbicular Leaf of Oval Leat. Pistil, with Ovary Ovate Leaf. Nummularia. ‘Tropzolum. laid open, show- ing the ovules.

42

Thistle Seed, with crown of pappus.

Peltate, or shield-

Pepo. Cucumbers,

Style, I; Stigma, H

Ova: Broadly elliptical.

the fruit.

after the style of a head of oats.

other flowers.

singly, or of a cluster.

tinguished as calyx and corolla ; the flowers of the Lily family.

PETAL: A leaf of the corolla.

PETIOLE: A leaf-stalk.

petiole.

and the stigma.

a feather.

Ovary: That part of the pistil containing the ovules or future seeds, and in the course of development becomes

OvaATE: Egg-shaped; like the section of an egg lengthwise. PALMATE: Digitate (see p. 27); resembling the hand with the outspread fingers ; spreading from the apex of a petiole as the leaflets or divisions of a leaf.

PANICLE: An open flower cluster more or less branched,

Pappus: Thistle-down, and the similar formation in

PEpIcEL: The stalk of each single flower of a cluster. PEDUNCLE: A flower stalk of a single flower when borne

PELTATE: Shield-shaped; applied to a leaf when the | Pericarps: Hazel- | petiole is attached to its lower surface.

Prepo: A fruit like the Melon and Cucumber. PERIANTH: All the flower-leaves taken collectively when they appear so much alike that they cannot be dis- as, for example, in

PERICARP: The ripened ovary; the shell or rind of any fruit taken as a whole. When it separates into layers each layer may have a different name, but the whole | Nemophila, show taken together constitutes the pericarp.

PINNATE: Feather-shaped; a pinnate leaf consists of several leaflets arranged on each side of a common

PistiL: The central and seed-bearing organ of the flower, consisting of three parts, the ovary, the style

PLUMOSE: Feathery; when any slender body is beset : ; , eee: ; O, Petiole. with hairs along its sides, like the plume or beards on

POLLEN: The fertilizing dust or powder of the anther. PYRAMIDAL: Shaped like a pyramid.

RAcEME: A flower cluster with the flowers arranged singly, on short pedicils, along the common flower- stalk; as the Lily of the Valley and the Dicentra. RACHIs (the backbone): The axis of a spike. RADIATE or RADIANT: Furnished with ray-flowers dis- Pie eicor tinct from disk flowers ; as in the Sunflower, &c. Clanchue.

nut, Pea & Cherry.

ing its five petals.

Pelargonium Leaf.

= -

Anther, discharg- ing pollen. Raceme of | Dicentra.

43

b> « < <a. iy S \ A —F we \ of 42 { \ 3 = z ~ . CS 9= PS; = . - ofl. iti. ‘ | " ) S ‘ eee one a boo! oS eo ine Se oe. a oa ee eee ae

Gaillardia. Ray flowers around Reflexed Segments

the margin. of Perianth.

SS \ Aas SN = Ce ke g DOR : PAN: SE ps Sete ere ( WSO), ese SOR,

eSeminar ea Su EN Sa ma BLE, EER 6 ees

RADICAL: Pertaining to the root, or apparently coming from the root. |

RADICLE: The first root of a plant in the embryo.

Ray: A marginal floret of a compound flower; as in the Aster, Sunflower, &c.; the branch of an umbel. RECEPTACLE: Head of a flower-stalk from which the or-

Revie eee gans of a flower grow or into which they are inserted.

CPE ant REFLEXED: Bent outwards or backward.

REVOLUTE: Rolled backward.

RINGENT: Grinning, gaping open.

Rip: One of the principal pieces of the framework of | a leaf.

ROOTLETS: Little roots or root-branches.

ROOTSTOCK: Root-like stem under ground; an under- ground stem.

ROTATE: Wheel-shaped; a monopetalous corolla, ex-

A Ringent Corolla. panding into a flattish border, with scarcely any tube.

Salvia, RuGosE: Wrinkled, roughened with wrinkles.

SAGITTATE: Arrow-shaped.

SCABROUS: Rough to the touch.

SCANDENT: Climbing.

SCAPE: A peduncle or flower-stalk rising from the crown of a root.

SEPAL: A single part or division of the calyx.

SERRATE: Toothed, like a saw; having the margin cut into teeth pointing forward. Leaf, with Serrate

SERRULATE: Same as “ serrate,’’? but with fine teeth. Margin.

SESSILE: Sitting; without a stalk; asa leaf without a petiole, or anther without a filament.

SILICLE: A short and broad pod of the Cress family.

SILIQUE: A long pod peculiar to the Cress family.

SINUATE: Strongly wavy.

SPADIX: A fleshy spike of flowers.

SPATHE: A sheathing bract which envelopes a spadix.

Rotate Flower. | SPICATE: Pertaining to or resembling a spike. Potato Blossom. | SpikKE: A flower-cluster in which the flowers are sessile on the axis or rachis, as in the Mullein.

SPINE: A thorn.

SPINDLE-SHAPED: ‘Tapering to each end like a Radish.

SPINOSE: Thorny.

STAMEN: One of the essential organs of a flower, which secretes and furnishes the pollen or fertilizing dust ; it consists of two parts, the anther and the filament.

STAMINATE: Furnished with stamens.

STELLATE: Starry; arranged in rays like those of a star,

A Scape. Tulip.

stock.

Silique of Mustard. WW ih, | Leaf with Sinuate Calla Spathe, en- Spike of Gladiolus. Stamen. Margin. closing Spadix.

44

eg a Pee

perks

OR S'} g 5 VE Sas WF: = SE | SAS) We: SS ata sore ae ea yp STE a= Peyeee MR meets a OD SOE Med a Be PY ~ Vere H STIGMA: The part of the pistil which receives the pollen.

Pistil, showing Stigma at H.

Mushroom, show-

ing Stipe or Stem.

Leaf, with pair of Stipules.

Raspberry, show- ing Stolon at S.

Pistil. Style at I.

-TENDRIL: A spiral shoot that twines around another

STIPE: The stalk of a pistil; the stem of a Fern; the stem of a Mushroom or of any fungus.

STIPULATE: Furnished with stipules.

STIPULE: An appendage at each side of the base of some petioles or leaves; resembling small leaves in texture and appearance.

STOLON: Trailing, rooting shoots.

STYLE: The middle part of the pistil which bears the stigma. SUBULATE: Awl-shaped.

body for support.

THROAT:. The orifice of a monopetalous corolla.

THyYRSE or THRySUS: A compact panicle, of a pyra- midal or oblong shape; such as a cluster of the Lilac or Horsechestnut. Tube.

TOMENTOSE: Wooly; covered with close, short hair, so as to be perceptible by the touch.

Torus: The receptacle of the flower.

TRUNCATE: Appearing as if cut off at the tip.

Tuse: The tubular part of a monopetalous corolla, as distinguished from the spreading border or limb.

Tusper: A thickened portion of an underground stem, provided with eyes (buds) on the sides, as a Patato.

TumMID: Swollen. : i . Tee

UmBEL: A flower-cluster, in which all the pedicels spring from the same point, and the expansion of the flowers or infloresence is from the circumference to the center.

UNDULATE: Wavy; wavy margined.

VEIN: One of the small ribs or fine branches of the framework of the leaves.

VEINLET: One of the smaller veins.

VENATION: The arrangement of the veins of leaves, &c.

VENTRICOSE: Inflated or swelled out on one side.

VERSATILE: Swinging, as the anthers of the Lily.

VILLOsE: Shaggy, with long and soft hairs.

Viscous, Viscip: Glutinous, clammy.

Wavy: The surface or margin alternately convex and concave.

Wuor.L: Arranged in a circle around a stem; applied to leaves, flowers, bracts, &c.

Wine: Any kind of membranous expansion; the two lateral petals of a papilionaceous flower. Vine.

Pea Flower. W, Versatile anthers Whorl of Leaves. Winged. Seed of W, Wing; B, of the Lily. Maple. Banner; K, Keel.

45

E aia = sy an i eo ( On, PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY OF BOTANICAL NAMES.

This Vocabulary contains the Botanical names of the orders, genera and species or sub-species that are men-

tioned in the FLoRAL GuIDE and FLOWER AND VEGETABLE GARDEN.

The accent (’) shows the accented syllable.

It does not include the names of varieties.

The words are divided into syllables, and each syllable should be separately pronounced in the usual manner

of such combinations of letters.

In some cases, the division into syllables has been made to indicate the correct sounds rather than to be critically

exact.

In names derived from the names of persons, the form of the proper name has been preserved, without

reference to the exact division of the syllables, in all cases where it could be done, and at the same time the correct

pronunciation indicated.

The letter a at the end of a word has always the sound of a in faga ; e final, or preceding a final consonant has its long sound; z unaccented, if final, sounds as if written eye, but when it ends a syllable, not final, it has the sound of e, as Drummondii, (Drummond e eye.); y is subject to the same rules as z.

The diphthongs @ and @ have the sound of e; and c/ has the sound of &.

FORMATION OF SOME BoTanicAL Names. — Names of genera are sometimes formed from those of persons, to compliment or commemorate them; in such cases the termination a or za is added, as Mandevilla from Mandeville,

Bouvardia from Bouvard.

The name of a species is sometimes derived from the name of its discoverer, or of the person who first described

it, in which case the name terminates in Zor 27, as Sanfordii from Sanford. given merely in compliment to a person they terminate in zazus, cana or tanum, as Hookeriana.

When commemorative names are Sometimes

this termination is also given to the names of countries, as Arkansianum, Africanum, &c.

A Bro’ nt A— From the Greek word, advos, delicate ; referring to the involucre.

A Bu’ TI Lon— An ancient name of a plant of the same family, now transferred to this one.

A CAN THA’ CE #— A natural order, of which the genus Acanthus is a type; name derived from akan- thos, a spine, some of the species being spiny.

A CAU’ Lis — Stemless.

AC RO CLI’ NI uM (i short) — Derivation unknown.

Ap tu’ mt A— Named in honor of John Adlum.

A vo’ nis— This plant is fabled to have sprung from the blood of Adonis, when wounded by a wild boar; alluding to the blood-red color of some of the species.

/E/ GI Lops— A Latin name of a fdisease of the eye, for which this plant has been supposed to be useful.

fEs TI va’ Lis, Es’ TI vuM — Pertaining to summer.

AF Fi’ nis — Allied or related to.

AF RI CA’ Nus— African.

A’ GA THA— Pleasant, pleasing or pretty.

A GE RA’ TUM— Name a compound of a privative, and geras, old; as applied to this plant the meaning is not to fade—the colors of the flowers remain always clear.

A GRO STEM’ MA— From agvos, a field, and stemmaa crown; literally the crown of the field; in reference to the beauty of the flowers.

A Gros’ T1s — This is the Greek name for grass.

A ja’ c1is— Pertaining to Ajax; the marks on the front of Delphinium Ajacis were fancied to read AIJAI, in which form the name Ajax was sometimes written.

A xr’ pr A—A latinized form of the Japanese name of one of the species of this genus.

A La’ Ta— Furnished with wings; winged.

Av’ gus — White.

AL BI FLO’ RUM — White-flowered.

A Lon’ so A— Named after Alonso, a Spanish botanist.

AL PES’ TRIS — Alpine.

AL TER NI FO’ LI us— Alternate-leaved.

AL TH&’/ A— From altheo, to cure; from the medicinal qualities of some species.

A tys’ sum— Compound of a privative, and Zyssa, rage ; from a notion of the ancients that the plant had the power of allaving rage.

A mA’ BI Lis— Lovely.

A MA RAN TA’ CE #—A natural order of which the genus Amaranthus is a type.

A MA RAN’ THUS— From the Greek word amarantos, unfading,

46

A MA RYL’ 11s — The name of a Nymph celebrated by the poet Virgil.

A ME LI O RA’ TA— Improved.

A MEL Lo I’ pES— Resembling the Amellus.

A MER I CA’ NA— American.

Am mo’ g1 um—From azzmos, sand, and d2o0, to live; in reference to the situation where the plants grow.

A mo/ mum — From a privative, and somos, impurity ; in allusion to the supposed qualities of some species as poison antidotes.

A NA GAL’ t1s— As the plants of this genus were for- merly supposed to possess the power of removing despondency they were named from the word anzage- Zao, to laugh.

AN DRO’ ME DA— Named after the virgin, Andromeda.

AN DRO PO’ GON—From aver, a man, and pogon, a beard; the little tufts of hairs on the flowers re- semble a man’s beard.

A NEM’ 0 NE— From azemos, the wind; many of the species inhabit elevated, windy places. {The . common instead of the original and correct pronun- ciation, An e mo’ ne. |

A NEM O NE FLO’ RA*~ Anemone-flowered ; flowers re- sembling the Anemone.

AN GEL’ 1 cA— Named after its supposed angelic virtues.

An’ GLI CA— English.

AN TIR RHI’ NUM— From azz, similar, and r/zu, a nose ; because the flowers of most of the species bear a re- semblance to the snout of some animal.

A pr A’ cE #—A natural order, of which the genus Apium is the prominent representative; name derived from the Celtic word afoz, water; in allusion to the place where the plants grow.

A pI cu LA’ TUM, (i short) — Resembling a bee, from apicula, a little bee.

A po cy NA’ cE =— A natural order of which the Apo- cynum is a representative; name derived from ao, away, and kyon, a dog; supposed to be mortal if eaten by dogs. Most plants of this order contain acrid, milky juices, very poisonous.

A gut LE’ GI A—From aguz/a, an eagle; alluding to the form of the petal.

AR ENA’ RI A—From arena, sand; most of the species grow in sand or sandy places.

AR GE MO’ NE, (g hard) — Named from argema, cataract of the eye; in allusion to its supposed medicinal prop- erties. —

AR GEN’ TE UM— Silvery.

Ar Is Ti’ p—Es— The name of a renowned Athenian.

AR KAN SI A’ NuM — Arkansan, from Arkansas.

AR ME’ RI A— Derivation unknown.

A RuN’ po — Latin arundo, a reed.

As par’ A GuS— From sfarrasso, to tear; on account of the strong prickles with which the plants of some of the species are armed.

AS PAR A GO I’ DES— Resembling the Asparagus.

As PE RU’ LA— Diminutive of asfer, rough; in allusion to the slight roughness of the leaves.

As/ TER — From aster, a star; from the resemblance of the flowers to a star.

As T1L’/ BnE— From a, privative, and s¢zdbe, brightness ; not shining.

A To MA’ RI A—From atomus, an atom; in allusion to the numerous little dots upon the petals.

A TRI PLI CI FO’ £1 A (ishort) — Atriplex-leaved ; leaves like the Atriplex; Atriplex is the botanical name of a culinary vegetable commonly called Orache.

A TRO Coc ci’ NE A(ishort) — From ater, black, and coccineus, scarlet; very dark scarlet.

A TRO SAN GuIN’ E A— From ater, black, and sanguin- eus, bloody, blood-colored, blood-red ; very dark blood red or very dark crimson.

A TRO v1 0 LA’ CE A— From ater, black, and violaceus, violet-colored; very dark violet-colored.

AU RAN TI A/ CA— Pertaining to the Orange, Orange- colored; Aurantium, (from azreuzs, golden, or gold- colored,) is the name of one species of the Orange.

Av RA’ TuM, Av’ RE A— From aureus, golden.

Av ri’ cu LA (i short) — Latin, auricuda, the ear.

Av Tum na’ Lis— Autumnal.

A ve’ NA— Latin, avena, oats.

A zo’ rt CA— Pertaining to the Azores ; from the Azore Islands.

A zu’ RE A— From the Persian dayaward, lapis lazuli, a blue color; of a sky-blue, resembling the clear blue color of the sky.

Bar Ba’ TuS— Having a beard, bearded.

Ba’ KER 1— Named after Mr. Baker.

Bat sA mi/ NAa— The Arabic name is é2lassan, whence probably Balsamina, Balsam has sprung.

BAL SA MI NA’ CE #—A natural order, of which the Balsam is the type.

Bar cLay A’ NA— Referring to Mr. Barclay.

Bar To’ nr A—In honor of Dr. B. S. Barton, a botanist of Philadelphia.

BEs SE RI A’ NA— Named after Dr. Besser, a Russian Professor of Botany.

Bey’ RICH II.

Bi’ Cox or (i short)— Two colored.

Bic no’ x1 A— In memory of Abbe Bignon, Librarian to Louis XIV.

Bic No NI A’ CE #— Thename of anatural order, of which the Bignonia is the leading representative.

Boc co’ NtA—In honor of Paolo Boccone, M. D., a Sicilian monk.

BLoom ER I A’ NuM —In reference to Mr. Bloomer, an amateur botanist of San Francisco, California, in honor of whom a species of Lily was named.

Bom sy ci’ nus—From éonzbyx, the silk worm; silky.

Bow pu cet’ ta— From the French éoxduc, and traccd through other languages to the Greek pontikon, the pontic nut or Filbert; the Filbert grew extensively in Pontus, and was made an article of commerce. The Bonducella tree is a species of Guilandina in the East Indies ; it produces a three-cornered pod, somewhat resembling a little Filbert with its husk on. The Bon- ducella is cultivated as a stove plant, and has flowers of a peculiar yellow color, and probably because the flowers of Statice Bonducella are of a similar shade of color this name has been given to it.

4

love

Bo RA G1 NA’ CE 2@—The name of a natural order, of which the Borage is a familiar representative.

Bor Bo Ni EN’ sis— From the Isle of Bourbon.

Bou var’ pl a—In memory of Dr. Bouvard, Superin- tendent of the Royal Paris Botanic Garden.

Bow 1 EW’ sis, Bow’ 11—In memory of J. Bowie, a col- lector of plants for the Kew Gardens, London.

Bra cHy co!/ME—From évachys, short, and ove, hair; in allusion to the down or pappus with which the seed is crowned.

BRA CHYR RHIN’ CHUM—From_ J6rachys, rynchos, a beak or snout.

BRAC TE A’ TUM— Bracteate; furnished with bracts. Bri’ zA— From ér7zzo, to nod; on account of the quak- ing character of the spikelets. Bri z For’ mis — Briza-shaped. Bri zo py’ RuM—From_ 677zo,

wheat.

Bro’ mus—So called from dro0s, the Greek name for the wild oat.

Bro wat’ 11 Aa—Named in honor of J. Browallius, Bishop of Abo,

Bru’ NE us— Brown.

But go co/ p1 um—From éxzdbos, bulb, and kodzon, wool; the bulb is wrapped in a wooly covering.

Bur RID GI A’ NuM, Bur RID’ GI.

Buycx’ rt.

Ca ca/ tt A—From kakos, pernicious, and /7az, exceed- ingly ; this is a very ancient name, and has probably been transferred to this plant from some other, so that the significance of the name does not now apply

Ca LAB’ RI CA—Calabrian; from Calabria.

Ca La’ pI uM— Meaning unknown.

Ca Lam’ PE Lis—From kados, pretty, and ampelis, a vine.

Ca LAN DRI’ NI A, (ishort)—In honor of J. L. Calan- drini, a German botanist.

CaL CEO LA’ RI A—From cadceolus, a small shoe; in allusion to the form of the corolla.

Ca LEN’ pu LA— Named from calende, the first day of the month; so named because in its native hab- tats it may be found in flower during the calends of each month, or, which is the same thing, during every month of the year.

Ca LEN DU LA’ CE uS— Calendula-like; like the Calen- dula.

CAL 1 FoR’ NI cus— Californian.

Cat 1 op’ sis—From kadlistos, beautiful, and ofs7s, the eye.

CAL LI RHO! E—A Greek mythological name.

Ca Ly can’ THUS — From kalyx, a calyx, and anthos,a flower; in allusion to the colored calyx resembling petals which are not present in this class.

Ca typ’ so— A nymph, daughter of Attas, who ruled in one of the islands of the Sicilian Sea, and who enter- tained Ulysses.

Cam pA’ NU LA— This name is a diminuitive of cam- pana,abell; from the resemblance of the corolla toa little bell.

CAM PA NU LA’ CE & — The name of a natural order rep- resented by the Campanula.

Cam PA NU LA’ rA—Campanulate, or bell-shaped.

Ca NA DEN’ SE — Canadian. é

CAN DE LA’ BRUM — Candelabrum is the Latin name for Candlestick or Chandelier, which was commonly made with branches or arms.

CAN pI pis’ st MA— Superlative of white ; whitish.

Can’ NA-— From the Greek azua, a cane, a reed.

Ca pI TA’ TA— Capitate; having a head.

Cap PA RI DA’ CE 2—A natural order, a typical plant of which is the Caper-bush or Caper, (Capparis.)

CAR DA MI NI FO’ L1A — Cardamine-leaved.

short, and

to nod, and fyros,

Car pi NA’ L1s— Meaning red or scarlet colored; in allusion to the red hat and cassock of a Cardinal.

CAR DI O PET’ A LUM — Heart-shaped petal.

CAR DI O SPER’ MUM — From kardia, a heart, and sper- ma,aseed; in allusion to its round seeds which are marked with a spot like a heart.

Car No’ sA— Flesh-colored.

Ca RI NA/ TUM— Keel-formed; from carvzva, the keel of a ship.

Car pa’ T1 cA—Carpathian. Carpathia was the ancient name of an island in the Grecian Archipelago.

CA RY O PHYL LO I’ pES— Resembling the Pink.

Cas’ sta — Derived from the Hebrew etzzoth.

Cau va’ Tus —Caudate, having a tail; from cauda, a tail.

CE Lo’ st A— From eZos, burnt; the flowers of some of the species appear as if singed.

CEN TAU’ RE A, or CEN TAU RE’ A—It is said that with one of these plants the Centaur Chiron healed the wound made in his foot by the arrow of Hercules.

CEN TAU RI’ DI UM (i short)— Similar to Centaurea.

CEN TRAN’ THUS — From kentron, a spur, and anthos,a flower; the corolla being furnished with a spur at the base.

Cr’ rES— The daughter of Saturn and sister of Jupiter, goddess of Agriculture.

CER VI A KOW’ SKI.

CHAL CE DO’ NI CA— Chalceodonian.

CHA M& PEU’ CE— From chamaz, on the ground, or dwarf, and fewke, a fir tree.

Cua M2 cris’ TA— From chamaz, dwarf, and crista, a crest, or tuft.

Cnet’ ri— Kheyrey is the Arabic name for the genus Cheiranthus.

CHEI RAN’ THUS— From its Arabic name kheyrey, and anthos, a flower.

CHI NEN’ SE, CHI NEN’ sis — Chinese.

CuHLo’ ris — From chloros, green; alluding to the color of the herbage.

Curys AN’ THA— From chrysos, gold, and axthos, a flower.

CHRYS AN THE MO I’ DES — Resembling the Chrysan- themum.,

CHRYS AN’ THE MUM — From chrysos, gold, and anthos, a flower; because many of the kinds bear yellow flowers.

Cury so ck’ PHA LUM— From chrysos, gold, and ke- phale, ahead.

Curys vu’ rus—From chrysos, gold, and oura,a tail; alluding to the compact head of flowers.

Ci Li a’ Tum (i short)—Ciliate, fringed; beset on the margin with a fringe of hairs or bristles; from cz/zu, an eye-lash.

CIN E RA’ RI A— From c7uerarius, pertaining to ashes ; in allusion to the color and appearance of the under side ot the leaves.

CIN NA BA RI’ NA— Vermilion color.

Cir RHO’ sA — Furnished with a tendril or twining leaf- stem.

Ci TRI’ Nus— Lemon-colored, a greenish-yellow like a lemon.

CrLark’ 1 A—In honor of Captain Clarke, who accom- panied Captain Lewis in his journey to the Rocky Mountains.

CLEm’ a tTis— From klema, a vine branch; leaves of most of the species climb like the vine.

CLE o/ ME— From £Zezo, to shut; alluding to the parts of the flowers.

CLE 0 pA’ TRA— A Queen of Egypt.

Cri An’ TrHUS— From fZezos, glory, and anxthos, a flower; in reference to the noble appearance of the species of this genus.

48

Dy MNES

— A in —— Sv iN SE one is

Benoa — ea

Co sa’ a—In honor of B. Cobo, a Spanish botanist.

Coc cin’ EA, Coc cin’ NE us— Of a scarlet color.

Coc co Lo’ BA— From kokkos, a berry, and lobos, a lobe; in allusion to the character of the fruit.

Ca@ Les Ti’ Num (i short)— From c@lum, the heavens ; referring to the sky-blue color.

Ca’ tr Ro sa—Rose of Heaven.

Co 1x —A name formerly applied toa kind of Ethiopian Palm, and which has been transferred to the genus of Grass which now bears it.

Cov’ cut cum— Named after Colchis, its native country.

Co’ Le us— Derived from foleos, a sheath; referring to the manner in which the stamens are united.

Cor tin’ st A—In honor of Z. Collins, formerly Vice President of the Academy of Natural Sciences, Phila- delphia.

Co Lu Bri’ NA— From koludber, a snake; alluding to the appearance of the twisted stamens of the flowers of the Colubrina.

Com mv’ Nis— Common.

Com pac’ Ta — Compact.

Com pos/1 T#—-A natural order composed of plants which have a number or many flowers congregated to- gether in a head, like the Dandelion, the Thistle, the Sunflower, the Aster, &c.

CON CHI FLO’ RA— Shell-flowered.

Con GEs’ TA— A heap, pile.

Con so/ Lt DA— Very firm or solid.

Con spi’ cu um— Remarkable, attracting attention.

Con vot’ vu Lus— From convolvo, to roll together, roll up, roll round; in reference to the habit of the plants.

Cor DI FO/ Lt umM— Heart-shape leaved.

Co Ro na’ Rt uM— Wreath-like.

Co RYM BI FLO’ RuM— Flowers arranged in a corymb.

Cra NI O EA’ RI A——Like a skull; from krantum, a skull.

Cras si FO’ Lt A— Thick leaved; from crassus, solid, thick, dense.

Crep’ 1s — Derivation unknown.

CRIS TA-GAL’ L1I— From cvista, a tuft, and gallus, a cock; a cock’s comb.

Cris Ta/ TA— Crested.

Cro’ ce a — Saffron-colored.

Cro’ cus—A Chaldean name. Ovid relates a story of a youth by the name of Crocus being turned into this flower.

Cru ci’ FE R&— The name of a natural order of plants ; literally, cross-bearing; the flowers of the plants of this order have four petals spread out in the form ofa cross, as in the Mustard, Cabbage, Candytuft, &c.

Cru EN’ TuS — Covered, spotted or stained with blood.

CruIK SHANK’ 11 (Crook) — Named after Cruikshank.

Crys TAL LI’ NuM— Crystalline.

Cu’ cu mis—From curvus, crooked; referring to the shape of the fruit.

Cu cur’ BI TA—From curvitas, crookedness.

Cu’ pHE a— From kughos, curved; in reference to the form of the capsule.

Cu PRE A’ TA,,CU/ PRE uS— Copper-colored.

Cy a! nus — From cyaneus, dark blue, sea blue.

Cy’ cLA MEN— Derived from syk/os, circular; referring to the round leaves.

(Cy BA LA’ Rt A—Cymbal-shaped.

Cy no su’ RuS— From uon, a dog, and oura, a tail; from its resemblance to a dog’s tail, whence the name, Dog’s Tail grass.

Cy no su Ro I’ pes— Like the Cynosurus.

Cy’ rE rus (y short)— From the Island of Cyprus or from Cyfrzs, another name for Venus.

Dam As ce’ NA— From Damascus.

Dam Pr F’ R1t— Referring to Captain William Dampier, a celebrated circumnavigator.

Da Tv’ RA— An alteration of the Arabic name ¢atorah.

Da vip son’ 11.

Dex ica Tis’ st MA — The most delicate.

DEL pur’ NI uM, (i short,)— From de/phin, in reference to the supposed resemblance of the nectary of the plant to the imaginary figures of the Dolphin.

Den Ta’ TA— Dentate, toothed; a term applied to the margin of a leaf which has sharp teeth pointing out- ward from the center.

DE pres’ sA — Pressed down, flattened from above.

Di a can’ THA— Two-spined, or two-thorned; dis, two, and acantha, a spine.

Dr an’ tHus— From aos divine, and axthos, a flower; referring to the fragrance and beauty of the flower.

Di pts’ cus.

Dr ar ta’ us, (short i, g soft,)—Of, or belonging to, the finger; in allusion to the resemblance the flower bears to the finger of a glove.

Dir’ sa cus — Supposed to be from azfsao, to thirst; in consequence of the leaves holding water.

Dis co 1 pa’ t1s— Discoidal, resembling a disc.

DI VER SI FLO’ RA — Diverse-flowered.

Do bE ca’ THE ON— From dodcka, twelve, and theos, a divinity ; a name without significance as applied to the plant that bears it. ;

Do’ tt cHos— From dodichos, long; in reference to the long twining stems.

Dra c#’ na—From drakaina, a female dragon; be- cause the inspissated juice becomes a red powder, like that produced from the blood of the dragon.

Drum monn’ 11— Discovered by Drummond; Mr. Thomas Drummond was a well-known Naturalist and zealous collector of plants, chiefly in this country. He died in Havana in 1835.

Dun NET’ TI I.

Ec crE MO CAR’ puS— From ekkremes, pendent, and karpos fruit; the fruit is pendent.

E 1a’ Ta, E 1a’ TI oR— Exalted, high, lofty.

Ev’ £ Gans— Elegant.

EL E GAN Tis’ st MA— Most elegant.

EN py’ MI oN, (y andi short)— A beautiful youth, who, on account of his love for Juno, was condemned by Jupiter to perpetual sleep, in which sleeping condition Luna fell violently in love with him.

Er 1 AN’ THUS— From ero, wool, and azthos, a flower.

E ri’ nus—Probably from erzzeos, the wild fig-tree, which has a milky juice; erzmus is the name of a genus of Alpine plants with milky juice; this term, therefore, has been applied to some plants having a milky juice.

E ry’ si mum, (y short) — From e7zoz, to draw, to cure; it is thought to be a cure fora sore throat; it is also said to draw and produce blisters.

E ry THRI' NA— From erythros, red; in reference to the color of the flowers.

Es cu Len’ TtuM— Esculent, edible.

Esc SCHOLT’ zi A (c silent)— From Dr. Eschscholtz, a Botanist.

Ev o/ ny Mus— From ez, well, and oxoma, a name, wellnamed. ‘The application of the name is obscure.

Ev poor’ pt A—Euphorbus was physician to Juba, King of Mauritania, and first used this plant in medi- cine; Linnzeus gave the name in his honor.

Eu To’ ca — From eztokos, fruitful; alluding to the great number of seeds.

Ex 1’ MI um—Select, distinguished, extraordinary, un- common, excellent.

Far Fu’ Gi um— The Farfugium bears a general resem- blance to Colt’s-foot, or Tussilago Farfara, of which the ancient name was Farfugium, and from this cir- cumstance it has received its name; the meaning of the name is uncertain.

from

49

Fas Tu o/ sa— Proud, haughty, disdainful.

Frenz/ 11 A—In honor of Dr. Fenzl.

Fer’ r#, FER ru Gi’ NE A (i short)— Resembling iron- rust in appearance or color; brownish-red, mixed with gray.

Fr co 1p’ Er 2—A natural order of succulent plants, of which the Mesembryanthemum is a typical genus ; the meaning of the name is unknown.

FLam’ mu Lta—A little flame.

Fra’ va — Golden yellow, reddish yellow.

Fra vis’ st MuM— The yellowest.

FLEx vu 0/ sAa— Full of turns, tortuous, flexuous.

FLo RE AL’ Bo— White-flowered.

FLO RE CAR’ NE O— Flesh-colored flower.

FLO RE LU’ TE o— Yellow-flowered.

FLO RE PLE’ No— Double-flowered.

FLo’ r1 pus— Full of flowers, abundant blooming ; flush- ed with rose color.

FLo r1 BuN’ pA— Abounding in flowers.

Fo’ rr Is—A leaf.

Fon TA NE si A’ NA—In honor of the celebrated Des- fontaines, professor of Botany at Paris.

For mo’ sa— Finelv formed, beautiful, handsome.

Fra Ga’ R1 A— From /raga, strawberries.

Fru Tes’ cens — Shrubby.

Fut’ ct pa— Flashing, glittering, shining.

Fu MA RI A’ CE &—The name of a natural order of plants, containing, among other genera, the Fumaria, Dicentra and the Adlumia. The name is derived from /umus, smoke; alluding to the disagreeable smell of the Fumitory, (Fumaria officinalis.)

Fu MA RI & FO’ L1 A— Fumaria-leaved.

Fucu si 0 1/ pEs — Resembling the Fuchsia.

Gaix Lar’ pt A — In honor of M. Gaillard de Marenton- neau, an amateur Botanist.

Ga La’ THE A— A sea nymph; a female friend of Hor- ace, to whom he addressed an ode.

GAN DA VEN’ sis— Changed from Gandensis ; Gand, or Ghent, in Belgium.

GARD NER I A’ NuS— Referring to George Gardner, a Scotchman and an enthusiastic Botanist and plant collector, who made extensive travels in South Amer- ica, and introduced a great many plants from that country into Great Britain ; he was afterward appoint- ed Director of the Botanical Garden of Ceylon, and died in 1841.

from

Gr ni cu LA’ TA— Bent abruptly, like a knee; from genu,aknee; geniculatus, bended knee. GEN TI AN O I’ pES— Resembling the Gentian. The

Gentian received its name from Gentius, King of Illy- ria, who first experienced the virtues of the plant.

Ge RA’ NI UuM— Named by Linneus, from geranos, a crane; in allusion to the crane-like beak terminating the carpels.

GI GAN TE’ Us (i short) — Gigantic.

Git’ 1 a—In honor of P. S. Gilio, a Spanish botanist of some note.

Guia’ sRuM — Smooth, without hair.

Gua’ p1 o LuS— Gladiolus, a small sword; alluding to the sword-shaped leaves.

GLAU Co PHYL’ LA— Glaucous-leaved, that is, the leaves covered with a bluish-gray bloom or powder that rubs off, like that on a fresh plum or a Cabbage leaf; from glaucus, bluish-gray, and phyllon, a leaf.

GLo Bo’ sA— Globose.

GLox I N# FLO’ RA—Gloxinia-formed, flowers like the Gloxinia.

Giox 1’ nr A—Named in honor of P. B. Gloxin, -a botanist of Colmar.

GLox 1 No I’ pes — Gloxinia-formed, Gloxinia.

Go ve’ T1 A— Derivation uncertain.

resembling the

Gom PHRE’ NA—From gowphos, a club; alluding to the shape of the flowers.

Gra’ cI L1s— Thin, small, slender.

GRA’ HAM II.

GRAN’ DE— Large, great.

GRAN DI FLO/ RA— Large-flowered.

Gym No car’ pA — Naked-fruited ; from gysznos, naked, and karvfos, a fruit.

Gy ne’ RI UM— From gyze, a female, and evzoz, wool; in reference to the stigmas.

GyP so’ PHI LA— From gyfsos, chalk, and phzleo, to love; in reference to the favorite habitat of the plant.

Haa Ge a’ Na (g hard)— Referring to Mr. Haage, a celebrated florist and seedsman, of Erfurt, Prussia.

Ha x1 ca’ CA BUM— The capsules or seed-vessels of the Cardiospermum Halicacabum are inflated like the pods of Vesicaria; the Greek name of Vesicaria was halicacabus.

Hart wec/ 11— Referring to Mr. Theodore Hartweg, who was at one time a botanical collector in South America for the Royal Horticultural Society of Great Britain.

Hep bE wic’ 1 1— In honor of Mr. Heddewig.

He py sa/ rum— An old Greek name of uncertain origin.

HE Li aN’ rHUS—F rom felios, sun, and anthos, a flower ; on account of the brilliant color of the flowers, and from the fanciful idea that the flowers always turned toward the sun.

Her Li cHRy’ sumM— From heZios, sun, and chrysos, gold ; in allusion to the brilliant colors of the flowers.

HE LI 0 TRO’ PI uM, (HELIOTROPE,)— From heZios, the sun, and ¢rofo, to turn; the flowers are said always to turn to the sun.

HE wip’ TE RuUM— The derivation is not apparent.

HER BER’ T1 1— Referring to the Rev. William Herbert, Dean of Manchester, a scientific horticulturist and botanist.

Hi sis’ cus— Probably derived from 767s, a stork, be- cause that bird is said to eat the plants of some of the species.

His pa’ NI CA— Spanish.

Hook ER 1 A’ NA— In reference to one of the Hookers, father and son, celebrated English botanists.

Hor’ pe um — Latin, hordeumnz, barley.

Hor ren’ sis— Belonging to a garden; from hortus,a garden.

Hoy’ A—In honor of Thomas Hoy, a noted English gardener, and Fellow of the Linnean Society.

Hum soupt’ 11— In reference to the celebrated travel- er and naturalist, Baron von Humboldt.

Hv’ me a — Inhonor of the lady of the late Sir Abraham Hume, Bart., Wormsleybury, Herts., England.

Hv’ mi tts — Humble, small, low.

Hun NE MANN’11, Hun NE MANN’ I A—In honor of John Hunnemann, a zealous botanist, and to whom horticulture is indebted for a great number of plants.

Hy A CIN THI FLO’ RUM — Hyacinth-flowered.

Hy a crn’ rHus— In Mythology, Hyacinthus was a boy who was killed by Zephyrus.

Hy A cIN THO I’ DES — Hyacinth-shaped, resembling the Hyacinth.

Hy’ prt pA — Hybrid; the progeny of the union of two species.

Hy pran’ GE A— From hydor, water, and aggcion, a cup or vessel; the capsule of some of the species has been compared to a cup.

Hy pro pHYL LA’ CE 2— The name of a natural order, commonly called the Water-leaf family; the applica- tion of the name is obscure.

Hys so pr Fo’ tt A— Hyssop-leaved.

J BE RI DI FO’ L1 A— Iberis-leaved; leaves like the Can- dytuft.

50

I Be’ r1s — From /éeria, the ancient name of Spain.

Im mu TA’ BI L1Is— Immutable, unchanging.

Im PE RI A’ L1S— Imperial.

In ca’ NA— Hoary, mouldy-colored.

In car na/ TA— Flesh-colored.

In’ p1 cA— Indian; from the Indies.

In pi vi’ sa— Undivided.

In sic’ nis— Distinguished by a mark, remarkable, noted, distinguished, prominent, extraordinary.

IN TEG RI FO! LI A— Whole-leaved—that is, the leaf en- tire, or not divided, cut or lobed.

IN vor tv cra’ Tum— Involucrate, having an involucre.

I po Ma’ a— From 7s, bindweed, and omozos, simi- lar; alluding to the twining habit of the plant.

I po mop’ sts — From 7fo, to strike forward, and opszs, sight; alluding to the dazzling color of the flowers.

I’ rts — From 7rzs, the rainbow; alluding to the variety and beauty of the colors of the flowers.

ISA BEL LY’ NA—A peculiar shade of yellow or drab.

I so’ LE pis— From /sos, equal, and /efzs, a scale; al- luding to the regularity of the scales,

Ix’ 1 a—/v7za, bird-lime; because of the viscid nature of some of the species.

JAcK MAN’ N11—In reference to George Jackmann, nurseryman, of Surrey, England.

Ja va’ pA— From a town of that name.

Ja po’ NI CA— Japanese.

Ju pa’ rum— Crested, maned.

Kaut Fus’ st A—In honor of Frederick Kaulfuss, M. D., formerly Professor of Botany at Halle.

Kino’ 11.

La pi a’ r@=—'The name of a natural order, commonly called the Mint family; the flowers of the plants in this order have always a two-lipped corolla, hence, the name, from dZadézuz, a lip.

Lap’ ran— Laélaé is the Arabic name of Convolvulus ; the idea of twining is probably the import of the term.

La’ cHryY MA— Lachrima, a tear.

La ci ni A‘ TUS—Laciniate; slashed, cut into deep, nar- row lobes.

La GE NA’ R1IA— From dagena, a bottle; because of the bottle-shaped fruit of some of the species.

La Gu’ Rus— From éagus,a hare, and oura, a tail; on account of the resemblance of its heads.

La marcK 1 A’ NA— In reference to Lamarck, a French naturalist, who wrote largely upon botany about the end of the eighteenth century.

La na’ ra— Wooly ; clothed with long and soft entangl- ed hairs.

LAN CI Fo’ Lt uM — Lance-leaved.

Lan Ta’ Na — One of the ancient names of the Viburnum, and applied to this genus by Linnzus, because of the similarity of the leaves.

La nu Git No’ SA — Wooly.

Las SEAUX’ II.

La Te Ri! T1 A— From /ateritius, brick-work; hence, brick-color.

La/ tHy Rus—From /a, augmentative, and thourus, anything exciting; in allusion to the medicinal quali- ties of the seeds.

La T1 Fo’ L1 Aa— Broad-leaved.

LA Tr pet’ A LA— Broad-petaled.

LEG u M1 No’ s#— The name of a natural order; com- monly called the Padse Famzly, and of which the com- mon Pea and the Bean are familiar representatives. Name from /egumen, pulse, leguminous plant, the Bean.

LEp TO’ st PHON— From J/eftos, slender, and szphon, a tube ; alluding to the slender tube of the corolla.

Leu can’ THA— From Jeukos, white, and anthos, a flower ; white-flowered.

Leu co’ jum— From dexkos, white, and zoz, a violet.

a

whose

‘LEuT WEIN’ 11— From Leutwein, a German, name is pronounced almost like “ght w7ne. Li so’ nr A— Named after Libon, who discovered it in

Brazil a few years since.

‘Li ra cr’ Na— Lilac colored.

Li’ tr um (i short)—From the Celtic word 2, whiteness ; on account of the white flowers of some of the species.

Lim pa’ Ta — Having an expanded end, or being bor- dered by something.

Li na’ cE 2—A natural order, commonly called Flax- worts; the principal genus is the Linum, or Flax, and from which the order receives its name.

Li na/ rt A— From Zinum, flax; on account of the sim- ilarity of the leaves.

Lin pen’ 11—In reference to M. Linden, a prominent Horticulturist, of Ghent.

Li’ num—From the Celtic word 2/zz, a thread; the fibres of one species of Linum is the Flax of commerce, from which linen cloth is made.

Lo a’ sa— Meaning unknown.

Loa sa’ ce #—A _ natural order, which receives name from its leading genus, Loasa.

Los Br a‘ NuM— In reference to William Lobb, an inde- fatigable English plant collector and botanist.

Lo se’ tt A—In honor of Matthew Lobel, a native of Lille, who became a botanist and physician to James I.

Lon ais’ st MA — Longest; superlative of long.

Lo ni cz’ RA— Named after Adam Lonicer, a German botanist, who died in 1586.

Lo’ REI.

Lv’ cr pA — Brilliant, bright, shining.

Lu pi’ nus— From Zupus, a wolf, because Lupines were thought to destroy the fertility of the soil.

Lu’ TE a— Golden yellow, saffron yellow, orange yellow.

Lycn’ nis— From Zychnos,a lamp; on account of the brilliancy of the flowers of some of the species.

Ma cro car’ pus—From makros, long, and karpos,a fruit.

Mac ro si’ pHON—From makros, long, and sifhon, a tube ; alluding to the long tube of the corolla.

Ma cu La’ TA — Spotted.

Ma’ jor— Larger.

Ma’ to pE—From wales, tender; soft leaves.

Mat va’ ce — The name of a natural order, contain- ing the genus JZaZva, from which it receives its name; the name is derived from 7zalache, soft; in allusion to the emollient qualities of the species.

Man bE vit’ ra — Named in honor of Henry J. Mande- ville, Esq., a British Minister to Buenos Ayres, who introduced this plant and many others into England.

Man Gur’ s1 1— Referring to Captain James Mangles, of the British navy, who was a patron of botany.

Ma RAN TA’ CE @— The name of a natural order of plants, which receives its name from the Maranta, or Arrow-root. The Maranta received its name from B. Maranti, a Venitian physician and botanist, who died in 1554.

Mar Gi nA’ TA— Marginate ; having a border or edge different from the rest.

Ma rI’ T1 ma (i short) — Maritime ; sea. ;

Mar mo ra’ TA— Marbled; variegated like marble.

Mar tyn’1 a—In honor of John Martyn, F. R. S., Professor of botany at Cambridge, England, who died in 1768.

Mau ran’ py a—In honor of Dr. Maurandy, Professor of botany at Carthagena.

Mau rt Ta’ nt cus— Of, or from, Mauritania

Max’ 1 mum— Greatest.

ME LAN CHO! LI cus — Melancholic.

its

in allusion to the

pertaining to the

51

( SS ay Oe, OR kee AS =: ‘2 Wier wy, or Ww Pais MES EM BRY AN’ THE MUM—From_ wesembria, mid-

day, and anthemon, a flower; the flowers expand most freely when fully exposed to the sun.

ME so po TA’ mI CcumM— Mesopotamian; of, Mesopotamia.

Mex 1 cA’ NUM— Mexican.

Mi cro car’ pus—From mzkros, fruit.

Mi mo’ sa— From 7270s, amimic; the leaves of many of the species mimic animal sensibility. My’ mu tus (i short)— From zzzm0, an ape

from the ringent corollas of the flowers.

My’ ni Mum — Smallest.

M1’ nor—Smaller.

Mri RA’ BI L1Is— Wonderful, admirable, extraordinary.

Mo mor’ pi cA— From zordeo, to bite; the seeds have

the appearance of being bitten.

Mon stro’ sus — Monstrous, strange, preternatural.

Mon Ta/ nA — Of, or from, a mountain.

Mos cua’ tus — Musky.

Mut TI cau’ LE— From mzltus, many,

stem; many stemmed or stalked.

Mut TI’ Co Lor, (i short) — Many-colored.

Mut T1 Fito’ RA — Many-flowered.

Mu ra’ Lis — Of, or belonging to, a wall.

Mor SEv’ Lit.

My o so’ t1s— From wzys, miyos, a mouse, and ofos, an ear; a fancied resemblance in the leaves.

Myr si/ pHyL Lum— From myrsine, a myrtle, phyllon, a leaf; resemblance of the leaves.

NAN KI NEN’ s1s— Belonging to Nankin.

Na’ nus — Dwarf. ‘

Nar BO NEN’ sis— Belonging to’ Narbonne.

Nar cis/ sus— A mythological youth; he was uncom- monly beautiful, and fell so violently in love with him- self on beholding his image in a fountain, that he wast- ed away with desire, until he was changed into the flower of the same name.

NE bu Lo’ sa— Cloudy, hazy, misty.

NeE mo’ pHILA—From zemos, a grove, and fhz/eo, to love; the plants delight in a shady situation.

NE pa LEN’ sts— Belonging to Nepaul.

Ne’ rt uvm—From zeros, humid; alluding to the hab- itat of the plant.

NE va DEN’ sis— From, or belonging to Nevada.

Nie REM BER’ G1 A, (Nie pronounced like Mee) — In honor of John Eusebius Nieremberg, a Spanish Jesuit, author of a History of Nature, Antwerp. 1635.

Ni Ge’ La, (g soft)—From xzzger, black; the black seed, which is the part of the plant known in cook- ery.

Nr’ tr pa (i short) — Shining, glossy.

No va’ NA—From zola, a little bell; form of the corolla.

Nyc TA Gi NA’ CE ©— The name of a natural order of plants, including the W/7raézlzs, (Four-o’clock,) Adro- nia, &c. Name derived from xuwktos, night, and gex- ests, to beget, be born; the flowers of many of the species open at night or near sun down.

O BE LIs CA’ RI A— From obediskos, obelisk ; to the elevated disc of the flower.

O cu La’ TuS— Having eyes, or spots like eyes.

O po RA’ TA — Odorous, fragrant.

CE No THE’ RA— From o7zzos, wine, and thera, a catch- ing; the roots of @. dennis were formerly taken after meals as incentives to wine-drinking.

OF FI cr Na’ LIs, (i short) — Of the office or shop; such as prepared at the dispensary, or sold at the drug- gist’s.

O LE AN’ DER — From the Latin lorandrum, corrupted from rhododendron, from rhodon, the rose, and dex- dron, tree.

or from

small, and sarfos, a

; so named

and caztlis, a

and

because of the

in allusion

O wa GRA’ CE © — The name of a natural order of plants, of which the CEnothera, (Evening Primrose,) is a rep- resentative genus; name derived from oxager, a mili- tary engine for discharging large stones; the flowers of some of the species of Evening Primrose,burst open suddenly at dusk, with a slight noise.

O RI EN TA’ LE— Oriental.

O THON’ NA— From othone, linen; alluding to the downy clothing of the original plant.

O va’ Tus — Ovate.

Ox a’ Lis— From oxys, acid; the leaves have an acid taste.

Ox y v’ RA — Derivation and meaning of name uncertain.

Pa La Fox’ 1 A— Named in honor of Palafox.

Pav’ rr pus— Pale.

PA Lus’ TRIs— Marshy, swampy, from low, damp places

Pa ni cu LA’ TA— Paniculate; flowers forming a panicle

Pa’ NI cum—An ancient name for an Italian grass; from panis, bread.

Pa pa’ VER— From ZafZa, pap, or thick milk; the juice of the Poppy was formerly used in children’s food to make them sleep.

Pa PA VE RA’ CE & — The name of a natural order of plants, prominently represented by the Poppy, and from which it receives its name.

Pa RA Dox’ A— Marvelous, strange, contrary to expec- tation, paradoxical.

Par THE’ NI uM— From farthenon, avirgin; supposed medicinal qualities.

PAR THE NI FO’ LI uM — Parthenium-leaved; leaves like the Parthenium.

Par’ vum— Small.

PAs SI FLO’ RA— From gassio, passion, and fos, a flow- er; flowers of the Passion; the early Roman Catholic Missionaries of South America finding, in them, sym- bols of the Crucifixion, — the crown of thorns in the fringes of the flower, nails in the styles with their cap- itate stigmas, hammers to drive them in the stamens, cords in the tendrils.

Pa’ Tu La — Patulous, spreading.

Pa vo’ nt a—In honor of Don Josef Pavon, M. D., of Madrid, a traveler in Peru.

Pr pa’ TAa— Pedate ; when leaves are cut in divisions, and the lower divisions again lobed they are said to be pedate.

PE NEL’ 0 PE— The wife of Ulysses and mother of Tele- machus.

Pen NA’ TA— See Pinnatus.

PEN NI SE’ TUM— From Jenna, a feather, and sefa,a bristle.

PEN TA PHYL’ LuM— Five-leaved.

PENT STE’ MON—From Zente, five, and stemon, a sta- men; there are four perfect stamens and one imperfect.

PER EN’ NE, PER EN’ nNIS— Perennial.

Pe rit’ ta— Meaning unknown.

PE ROW SKI A’ NUM.

Pzr’ st cA— Persian.

Pr tu’ nr a— The Brazilian name for Tobacco is Petun ; applied to this genus on account of ,its affinity to WVz- cottana, Tobacco.

Pua ce’ 11 A— From Phakelos, a bundle; in reference to the disposition of the flowers.

Pua La/ crE A— Phalacrine, belonging to Phalacria, an ancient Italian town.

Pua sze’o tus—From phaselus,a little boat; fancied resemblance in the pod.

Pic’ ra— Painted, embellished, adorned.

Pic Tu RA’ TA — Painted, pictured, variegated.

Pi Le’ a— From Zzleos,a cap; one of the divisions of the perianth in Pzlea muscosa resembles a cap.

Pin na’ Tus— Pinnate; when leaflets are arranged along the sides of a common petiole.

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PLa Ty CEN’ TRA— From A/atys, flat, and kentron, a a spur, flat spurred.

Pia Ty cLa’/pa—From Jlatys, flat and klados, a

branch ; flat-stemmed.

PLa Ty srr’ Mon— From //atys, flat, and stemon,a stamen.

Pie’ na— Double, full.

PLE nis/ st MA — Most double.

Po et’1cus—Of the poets, poetical, pertaining to poetry. :

Po LE Mo NIA’ CE #2 —A natural order of plants, re- ceiving its name from Polemonium, one of its genera.

Por tu La’ CA—From orto, to carry, and Jac, milk; on account of the milky juice of the plants.

Por Tu LA CA’ CE #—A _ natural order of plants, of which the Portulaca is a representative, and from which it is named.

Po TEN TIL’ LA—From jofens, powerful; supposed medicinal qualities of some of the species.

Ports’ 11.

Press’ tt 1— Referring to the Messrs. Prezl, of Prague, botanists and authors.

Pri’ mu LA (i short)— From frzmus, first; in allusion to the early flowering of the plants.

PRI MU LA’ CE #(i short)—A natural order of plants, receiving its name from Primula, one of its genera.

Pro Bos Ci’ DE A (i short) — Proboscis-like, snout-like.

Pro cum’ BENs — Trailing on the ground.

Psy’ cHE— A maiden beloved by Cupid, made immor- tal by Jupiter.

Pu pi’ cA —Shame-faced, bashful, modest.

Put CHER’ RI MA— Handsomest, most beautiful.

Pu’ cHRA — Beautiful, handsome.

Pu’ m1 LA— Dwarf.

Pu ni’ cE A (ishort)— Reddish, red, purple-colored.

Pur pu’ RE A— Purple, in its various shades.

Py rE’ THRUM— From /yr, fire; the roots are hot to- the taste.

Qua’ Mo cLir—From fyamos, a kidney-bean, and kiitos, dwarf; the species of this genus resemble the. kidney-bean in their climbing stems.

Qui na’ TA — Quinate, with five leaflets.

QUIN QUE FO’ LI A— Five-leaved.

QUIN QUE VUL’ NE RUS— From guiugue, five, and vud- nus, a wound,

Ra pi A’ TA— Radiate; furnished with ray flowers.

Ra’ pi cans — Rooting.

Ra po witz’ rt.

Ra mo’ sA— Branched, full of branches.

Ra nun’ cu LuSs— From vana, a frog; many of the spe- cies are found in moist places frequented by that reptile.

Ra NUN CU LA’ CE =—A natural order of plants, in- cluding the Ranunculus.

Ra NUN Cu Lo 1’ pES— Ranunculus-formed, resembling the Ranunculus.

RA VEN’ N&.

Ree ve’ st 1— Referring to John Reeves, F. L. S., of Canton, from whom the botany of China has received material assistance, and to whom horticulture is in- debted for many of its fairest ornaments.

Re T1 cu LA’ TA— Reticulated; interlaced with net- work.

Re tu’ sus— Retuse; a leaf is said to be retuse when there isa depression at the end where the point should be.

Rex — The king.

Ruo DAN’ THE—From rkhodon,a rose, and anthos,a flower; in allusion to the color of the flower-heads.

Ri cuar’ pi A (ch soft)—In honor of L. C. Richard, an eminent French botanist.

Ri ci’ nus—From ricinus, a tick; resemblance in the seeds.

Rca MERI A’ NA.

Ro’ sEA — Rose-colored.

Ro Tun pi Fo’ LI us — Round-leaved.

Rv’ Ber, Ru’ pra, Ru pro’ rum, Ru BER’ RI MA—Red,

SA LI CI FO’ LI us— Willow-leaved; from sadix,a wil- low tree, and folzzs a leaf.

SAL PI GLos’ sis—From sadlsinx,a tube, and glossa,a tongue ; alluding to the tongue-like style in the mouth of the corolla.

Sau’ vi a— From sa/vo, to save; in allusion to the heal- ing qualities of the sage.

SAN DER SO/ n11—In reference to John Sanderson, Secretary of the Horticultural Society of Natal, South Africa.

SAN FORD’ II.

SAN Gul’ NE us—Crimson; the color of blood.

SAN vi TA’ LI A— Derivation unknown; probably a man’s name.

Sax a/ T1LE— From savratilis, that dwells or is found among rocks.

Sca Br 0’ sA— From scaézes, leprosy ; some of the spe- cies are said to be useful in cutaneous diseases.

Sca’/ BER — Rough, scurfy.

Scan’ pens— Climbing.

Scur zanw’ THUS— From schizo, to cut, and anthos, a flower; in allusion to the irregularly divided corolla.

SCHEU ER I A/ NUM.

Scuutz’11 (Schultz, pronounced like Shoolts)— Refer- ring to John Henry Schultz, an eminent German botan- ist.

Sciz’ ta— From sfyZlo, to injure; the roots are poison- ous.

ScCRO PHU LA RI A/ CE #—A natural order of plants, in- cluding the Scrophularia, from which it receives its name ; from scvophula, scrofula, from its supposed use